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OT: BYE GUYS

From : chris thompson

Q: hope its not anything too serious. stop in when ya can. later... denny its not something i would like to do but at least for now and for reasons i wish not to go into here i have to say good bye for a while. i do not know how long i will be gone. i hope to get to come back at some point and sincerely wish you all well. -- ---------------------------- -chris 05 ctd 06 liberty crd real trucks dont need spark plugs. .

Replies:

From : Annonymous

its not something i would like to do but at least for now and for reasons i wish not to go into here i have to say good bye for a while. i do not know how long i will be gone. i hope to get to come back at some point and sincerely wish you all well. take care. anything any of us can do to give ya a hand roy .

From : mac davis

on wed 27 sep 2006 154159 gmt ignoramus15447 ignoramus15447@nospam.15447.invalid wrote ok guys... my plan for now is as follows. 0. the noises that i have are of two distinct kinds a whining noise that appears when i ease the gas pedal and grinding noise that i hear at low speeds. 1. i received the adjuster lock tab replacement from the dealer. 2. i will take off the diff cover again and will try to adjust the adjuster lock to reduce backlash to spec using a dial indicator to measure backlash. i hope and would like you to confirm that i can do it using a screwdriver through the access hole. 3. if i cannot get a screwdriver through the hole i could pull the axle and make a tool that goes through the axle hole and turns the adjuster. i would make it out of some materials i have a welder. what i will need to know is dimensions of the tool ie where to place the pins etc. the tool is called c-4164 adjuster rotator. i 4. after i do that i will drive around to verify that the whining noise is gone. if not i will take the truck to a dealer. i realize that the grinding noise at low speeds may remain could be due to trashed bearings. 5. if the whining noise is gone i will take the diff apart and replace the bearings that may have caused the grinding noise. i am not yet sure whether it is easy or not to put it back together correctly. does this plan make sense i .

From : azwiley1

its not something i would like to do but at least for now and for reasons i wish not to go into here i have to say good bye for a while. i do not know how long i will be gone. i hope to get to come back at some point and sincerely wish you all well. please dont say you bought a ford!!! good luck to ya. -- --scott hendryx-- .

From : azwiley1

on tue 26 sep 2006 154836 gmt tbone tbonenospam@nc.rr.com wrote this is completely wrong. since the crush sleeve is located between the two bearings the amount the crush sleeve is actually crushed by the two bearings being forced together does affect the pinion depth. if this were not the case there would be no need to set the bearing pre-load before taking measurements. actually if i know that i might have to make multiple measurements and adjustments i set the preload and make them without the crush sleeve until i get it right. when you think about what bearing preload actually is you will understand. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving atually all the crusher sleeve does is keep the nut tight. greg in this something that you learned in your s&m class ^ beekeep .

From : beekeep

i will plan to work on it thursday john wrote thanks all i will start with the u-joints since its easiest and cheepest and work through the other solutions thanks for the input. richard quoted text clipped - 7 lines converter going bad something else the fluid and filter where changed with proper fluid but no improvement. richard - id be interested in hearing what you find out. i have a 2003 i just bought with 33k miles on it - similar situation. i dont notice it visibly in the mirror buti can feel it - not quite all the time but most of the time. my gut feeling was directing me towards driveline in some fashion. if you cant post it here please let me know at john.redcord at gmail.com thanks robert -- message posted via carkb.com http//www.carkb.com/uwe/forums.aspx/dodge-truck/200609/1 .

From : chris thompson

rednecks arent men oh dear are you in for it. . . . . -- budd cochran john 316-17 ephesians 28-9 romans 323 623 our constitution was made only for a moral and religious people. it is wholly inadequate for the government of any other. john adams on mon 25 sep 2006 195520 -0600 budd cochran mr-d150@preciscom spam.net wrote i see your showing off your bigotry. -- budd cochran i dont think that when jesus said become a fisher of men that he ment trolling for rednecks on usenet. beekeep -- posted via a free usenet account from http//www.tera.com .

From : chris thompson

its not something i would like to do but at least for now and for reasons i wish not to go into here i have to say good bye for a while. i do not know how long i will be gone. i hope to get to come back at some point and sincerely wish you all well. please dont say you bought a ford!!! a what ive never heard of such a creature. what color fur does that have bfg good luck to ya. -- --scott hendryx-- .

From : scott hendryx

richard - id be interested in hearing what you find out. i have a 2003 i just bought with 33k miles on it - similar situation. if youve had it all the time and you have a vehicle with a two-piece driveshaft sometimes shimming the center carrier bearing mount adds a bit of angle on the front u-joint lessens the angle on the rear can cure this. i didnt mention this to the op because he said it had only recently developed. also some have reported roy here being one of them iirc that a procedure to align the drivetrain has cured this shudder. this involves loosening the engine and transmission mounts driving forward about 100ft. driving backward the same distance then re-tighten the mounts without moving the vehicle. it seems some drivetrains were installed in a slight bind and this has been shown to cure some shudder-on-takeoff problems. .

From : chris thompson

on tue 26 sep 2006 191220 gmt richard howard via carkb.com u27123@uwe wrote thanks all i will start with the u-joints since its easiest and cheepest and work through the other solutions thanks for the input. richard richard howard wrote o.k. dodge gurus figure this one out. dodge ram 1500 4x4 quad 100500 miles and new balanced tires brakes and rotors. when initially taking off from stop and without touching gas truck shutters ever so slightly but enough to see out rear view mirror. as soon as i touch the gas its gone or if i reach 3-4 mph. it doesnt do it any other time. if i hold the brake and let it roll at 1-2 mph it will continue to shutter almost hop. is it the torque converter going bad something else the fluid and filter where changed with proper fluid but no improvement. richard - id be interested in hearing what you find out. i have a 2003 i just bought with 33k miles on it - similar situation. i dont notice it visibly in the mirror buti can feel it - not quite all the time but most of the time. my gut feeling was directing me towards driveline in some fashion. if you cant post it here please let me know at john.redcord at gmail.com thanks robert .

From : roy

its not something i would like to do but at least for now and for reasons i wish not to go into here i have to say good bye for a while. i do not know how long i will be gone. i hope to get to come back at some point and sincerely wish you all well. take care. anything any of us can do to give ya a hand roy i appreciate the offer roy but i dont think there is anything that anyone could do or would i ask any of you to do. as i said i hope to return sooner than later. ill be around for a few days to say final farewells and all. aww come on man i know for a fact that if you were going to jail that i would write you and send you the occassional porn mag and inflate-a-date! -- ---------------------------- -chris 05 ctd 06 liberty crd real trucks dont need spark plugs. .

From : craig c

on tue 26 sep 2006 204427 -0400 chris thompson kf4drr-nospam@alltel.net wrote its not something i would like to do but at least for now and for reasons i wish not to go into here i have to say good bye for a while. i do not know how long i will be gone. i hope to get to come back at some point and sincerely wish you all well. hey my most sincere best wishes to you and you are welcome back anytime. .

From : denny

tbone tbonenospam@nc.rr.com wrote now what the fuck do you suppose item #16 is and where the fuck do you suppose it is installed and as far as front versus rear goes any and every parts book will specify that the bearing closest to the pinion gear teeth is the -rear- pinion bearing and the one closest to the yoke is the -front- pinion bearing. which confirms what he said about the front of the gear facing the pinion shaft so what exactly is your point well since carl has since retracted his statement how about im right hes working on a corporate 9.25 axle not a god damned dana 60. the depth adjustment shims go on the pinion stem between the head of the gear and the rear bearing and the crush sleeve -still- has nothing to do with pinion depth. this is completely wrong. since the crush sleeve is located between the two bearings the amount the crush sleeve is actually crushed by the two bearings being forced together does affect the pinion depth. no it doesnt. if this were not the case there would be no need to set the bearing pre-load before taking measurements. you dont have to set the bearing pre-load before measuring pinion depth. pinion depth is merely a static measurement from the back face of the pinion gear to the ring gear line. all that is needed is the pinion gear rear pinion bearing and rear bearing outer race. actually if i know that i might have to make multiple measurements and adjustments i set the preload and make them without the crush sleeve until i get it right. when you think about what bearing preload actually is you will understand. if you think about what youre asserting the crush sleeve is stronger than the rear pinion bearing race and the axle case. if im doing an in chassis rebuild i might be inclined to install the front pinion bearing pre-load it and take my depth measurement if its a bench top rebuild or on a chryco 8.75 or a ford 9 gravity works quite well to hold the pinion in place. sorry i just dont see 15-25 in.lb. of bearing pre-load moving the rear pinion bearing and race a whole hell of a lot certainly not within the resolution of the shims that are currently available. .

From : azwiley1

have a good one chris. email me sometime about your bio-diesel experiences. it would be of interest to those that are here to discuss automotive related topics. it is also my semester project for one of my upper level environmental science classes making bio-diesel and measuring the differences between it and petro-diesel. best to you and yours. craig c. chris thompson wrote its not something i would like to do but at least for now and for reasons i wish not to go into here i have to say good bye for a while. i do not know how long i will be gone. i hope to get to come back at some point and sincerely wish you all well. -- ---------------------------- -chris 05 ctd 06 liberty crd real trucks dont need spark plugs. .