OT: woodworking group(s)
From : mac davis
Q: the drivers side tail light will not help you. there is no constant power there for your interior light and the cap brake light will simply follow whatever the drivers side brake light is doing iow it will flash when you activate your left turn signal. your best bet is to tap power from the center high mounted stop lamp. you can connect your brake light red wire to the white / tan wire inside the chmsl and the black to the black / orange or any good ground. you may also want to remove the bulbs from the chmsl as they are not needed under your cap and add an unnecessary load on the brake switch. your interior light the other red can be connected to the pink wire which gets power all of the time. now depending on how you want your interior light to be controlled if it has a switch you can connect the black wire to ground metal on the truck or with the other black wire and if not the black wire can be connected to the pink / dark blue and it will operate with the cargo lights. just to make sure that you are understanding my notation when i say black / orange it means a black wire with an orange stripe not either a black or orange wire. good luck and let us know how you did. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving hi as youll see im not that educated about auto electric systems. i just put a cap on my 99 ram. this cap has a brake light on it and an interior light on it. two wires going to each. im going to run them into the driver side tail light area and hook them up there but i have basically no idea which wires to connect. if i remember correctly the brake light on the cap has a black and red wire going to it the interior light has red and white. but the tail light wires are green white brown etc. there are three wires going to the brake light and two going to the backup light. its all foreign to me. could anyone help out please be as specific as you can about wire color etc. i hope this is not too much to ask. thanks steve .
Replies:
From : fmb
i would like to replace the 2bbl throttle body fuel injection on my 1988 d100 318 with a 4bbl. does anyone know if the gauges are linked to the computer and will they stop working if i yank it while doing the mods shad try this while moving around 20 mph put it in neutral and shut off the key. if the speedometer drops to 0 its part of the computer circuit. it does on my 90 and 92. i would not change anything on this truck. for one its against the law to modify the emission system. what are you trying to gain by putting a 4 barrel on it al al .
From : redneck tookover hell
im not driving it -- its just sitting in the driveway. after sitting 12 hours the level had dropped dont know why. its going to the mechanic in the morning. h steve@carolinabreezehvac steve@removethis.carolinabreezehvac.com wrote i have no clue -- im not the original owner. this morning the coolant level had dropped about 1/3rd of the overflow bottle. wtf!! get the damn thing pressure tested before you damage it. this has been going on how long a couple of weeks second that...it is foolish to continue to drive if you know somethings wrong. hey..thats a loaded gun....wanna play russian roulette .
From : redneck tookover hell
my point is there will always be a correct way to do things and 99% of your modern techs couldnt do them right if their lives depended on it. true mechanics are a dying breed . . . . budd just for argument sake cause i know you hate to argue.... vbg there can be more than one way to do a job correctly. for instance packing wheel bearings on old dinosaurs. after cleaning and toweling dry the bearings you could pack them by putting a glob of grease in the palm of your hand and working it into the bearing by hand. i could pack it with one of those new fangled bearing packers. both pushes new grease thru the bearing and out the other side/cage. which is the most correct way of packing them not that im old enough to have ever worked on something that old......... bg denny dont mention packing too loud. a few here might get the wrong idea. bfg roy dd/phud are long gone. tis safe to be out at night alone again... denny .
From : mac davis
steve@carolinabreezehvac steve@removethis.carolinabreezehvac.com wrote steve@carolinabreezehvac steve@removethis.carolinabreezehvac.com wrote my old man has on order a 380...cant recall who makes it...right off...but its supposed to be in today and if thats the case gonna take the 44 out and run a few boxes though it...gotta love living in the county.... might have to hit the store again today...see what kinda toys hit the shelves in the last 48... did you get a new toy and did you get to play today denny nope..got busy and only went by another store....found this tho...and i swear...i think if i get it i will have problems going to work and not the range...lol http//www.taurususa.com/products/product-details.cfmmodel=444multi&category=revolver i gotta admit it would be interesting to let a few full pop rounds go thru a lightweight 4 barrel..... denny .
From : mac davis
on wed 15 sep 2004 234211 -0600 yonzie yonzie@mac.com wrote mac davis mac.davis@comcast.net wrote any woodworkers in the group have any groups they like or rec commend power or hand tools turning plans etc.... thanks mac should talke to red he should know of some he always has a woody what are you building dale i think reds more into wood wrecking dale.. mostly making sawdust and kindling but its a manly thing.. lol i just made a couple of book holders for my wife and rebuilt my bench... made new bench pegs and stuff.. basically getting back into woodworking and want to learn more and get better hopefully good enough some day to make jewelry boxes and turned jars and that kind of thing.. next 2 projects are a new table and fence for the radial saw and updating my cutoff saw table to match the new bench height.. oh.. and need to build a new entertainment center this winter... mac .
From : mac davis
on thu 16 sep 2004 030129 gmt greg brewer r3gbrewer@xspamhealth.nb.ca wrote thats a good thing greg... it means that your wife will be hinting soon that you need a new truck.. *g* i know exactly what you mean. my truck isnt going to be a show truck either but the wifes new car was making it look a bit old in comparison so i figured i should at least try ... thanks for the info. greg ok if you insist but it is very shade-tree. on my 95 i took this back to black liquid stuff for putting on tires to make them nice and black and rubbed it on the bumper cover. after it dried i sprayed it with some other kind of aerosol tire dressing stuff. since then i spray it about 2-3 times a year with that tire dressing stuff and it keeps it looking ok. take your pick on the brand i just pick up whatever happens to look good at the time. i try to keep my work truck looking nice but it will never be a show truck if you know what i mean. denny come on someone must have some suggestions here i know that there are a few model years from 96 to 99 or later that had this same problem ... hi ive got a 97 ram 1500 and the top part of the front bumper is supposed to be black but it is so faded that it looks like its grey now. i know that all of these trucks have the same issue so there must be something that can bring the color back. what are people using to fix this thanks. greg please reply to the email address as well if you dont mind. mac .
From : yonzie
what is better the ride the handling off road ability stops better pulls a 3000 lbs trailer better real truck lol. glad you like your new truck. what do you tow with it bob the correct answer here is buy a 2500 or a 3500 and get a real truck. i have a 96 5.9 1500 and i just received my new 3500 qc lb with the ho cummins. i cannot believe the difference. there is no comparison. this truck is fabulous. it is better than anything i have seen any brand any model any year. the more i drive it the better it gets. steve john robertson wrote hi. i am wanting to trade out my 20s with 26000 miles on them for the stock 17s. the tires must have less then 5000 miles on them and i am .
From : fmb
has the water pump ever been changed out especially to an after-market one ok so i bled the air out of the radiator -- there was definately a bubble in there a big one. other things to note that may help troubleshoot... after running the engine for a good 30 minutes including a very short drive around the block the front of the radiator is totally cool to the touch. maybe i didnt run it enough to feel the heat. the fan works and blows a ton of air but the arrow did creep very slightly lower at speed. it also creeped a hair lower when i revved it in neutral. im accounting the first to air movement over the radiator the second to higher pressure from the water pump but what do i know.. someone also mentioned loosening the hex screw on the cap to let air out but since i bled it by starting/stopping the engine with the heat on full bore and filling up when the level dropped significantly do i still need to the temp is now stable at 200 where it always is but does that mean its fixed is it safe to drive all i have a 95 ram 2500 v8 magnum about 120k miles.. about two weeks ago the temp gauge went nuts and almost redlined. i found my coolant reservoir almost empty. i topped off the radiator and the reservoir while engine was dead-cold and everything was peachy again. today 2 weeks later the temp was fine this morning but on my way home 20 mile drive spiked again and i found the reservoir empty. i dont think its leaking i didnt see any drippage or anything after it sat a full night in the driveway but then again antifreeze evaporates pretty quick... anyone have any thoughts before i take it to a dealer hell even if i need to take it in id like to have something useful to tell them... help! .
From : redneck tookover hell
i just spoke to a mechanic at the dodge dealer he told me it was probably an air bubble and i should try to get that out run w/cap off heat on before bringing it in... guess ill try that tonight. h all i have a 95 ram 2500 v8 magnum about 120k miles.. about two weeks ago the temp gauge went nuts and almost redlined. i found my coolant reservoir almost empty. i topped off the radiator and the reservoir while engine was dead-cold and everything was peachy again. today 2 weeks later the temp was fine this morning but on my way home 20 mile drive spiked again and i found the reservoir empty. i dont think its leaking i didnt see any drippage or anything after it sat a full night in the driveway but then again antifreeze evaporates pretty quick... anyone have any thoughts before i take it to a dealer hell even if i need to take it in id like to have something useful to tell them... help! .
From : mac davis
on wed 15 sep 2004 025827 gmt mopaman scott.hendryx.clothes@sbcglobal.net wrote build a knockdown frame and cover it with camo fabric. budd im building it out of 1/2 foam. kinda like a real thin surf board. check out heat shrink mylar... fast and easy.. surprisingly strong.. weighs almost nothing.. my brother used to sell radio control gliders that had 6 wing span.. made of foam and the heat shrink mylar i think it comes in camo... so light that you think it will shatter if you drop it but they use these things for full contact combat yeah running into each other! and they never seem to hurt em.. mac .
From : mac davis
steve@carolinabreezehvac steve@removethis.carolinabreezehvac.com wrote steve@carolinabreezehvac steve@removethis.carolinabreezehvac.com wrote ask denny. ask the man that knocks down mountains with one. vbg budd rabbit boy has a 500 oh...this years hunting season just got even...lol go ahead. just one more freaken rabbit joke and ill see what kind of range this thing has... bg ive put about a hundred rounds thru it so far and it really satisfies the urge for hi-power. a guy i work with acquired this old chevy truck with an i-6 motor that was seized. i had to do it. using 440 grain hard cast with 34 grains of h4227 powder the shot would go thru one side of the block but would not come out the other side. i got 12 rounds loaded with 37.0 grains which is the max load and cant wait to try it again. if all else fails i got an old neon block to try. as ole johnny holms used to say it tiss a handful..... denny bought another taurus 357 today...guy came into the gun store and was trading it while i was looking at a taurus 45 semi.. had some hammer and spring work done to it and its the sweetest pulling taurus i have ever seen...the owner has a 500...and hes a big fella..says he cant fire it more than 4 or 5 rounds at a time before its hurting.....i dunno if i want to pull back on a 500 and let it rip..more of a toy to say you have one than anything else...the 44s are big enough for me.. hes got a new super blackhawk there too...stainless sight mount barrel...ash grey grips...incredible lookin piece..but the wife is gonna be mad enough over the 357..lol..gonna pick it up in the morning...might even have to go out back and try both 357s at the same time ... the most ive shot mine at any one time is 15 rounds and yes my arm was getting a little tired. im fairly accurate for the 1st five shots and then i start spreading them out a bit. i have absolutely no use for this gun other than to say i have one and to go play now and then. im not much of a hunter and there aint no grizzly bears in ohio but its kinda like do you really need that hemi in the anglea g my favorite is my p95 ruger. i can shoot for approx 10 cents a round and its fun to shoot. i think my next toy is gonna be a model 1 american derringer. im curious how a .45 acp/.410 is gonna feel in that little gun. denny my old man has on order a 380...cant recall who makes it...right off...but its supposed to be in today and if thats the case gonna take the 44 out and run a few boxes though it...gotta love living in the county.... might have to hit the store again today...see what kinda toys hit the shelves in the last 48... .
From : fmb
usually the minor crossthreads are the first 2-3 threads thats when the newbie techs try to air impact them on instead of starting the thread by hand. depending on the vehicle i just get a matching good lug nut and just fix the damage threads. the repaired threads are usually far enough into the lug nut as not to reduce its strength. the crossthreads that occur when dirty threads are impacted are the onces that gets replaced. and if you just made those techs start the nuts by hand a few turns instead of dropping them in the socket and bzzzzt one screwed up damaged stud. unauthorized work i should restate that statement. im also the brake and alignment tech ase certs on brakes/steering/suspension/ac/cooling/electrical the key phrase is i tell the customer that it needs to be done and i walk him over to see it. ah . . . that would be part of the front alignment wouldnt it btw each type of front suspension has specific procedures for doing suspension component inspections properly. just shaking tires isnt the way to do it. grab the front end of the tire and shake side to side for loose play tie rods ok. grab the top end of the tire and shake in and out upper ball joints same with the bottom end lower ball joints sorry but youre wrong. do that to a suspension with the ball joints in tension car weight supported by the lower control arm but on a frame lift tires off floor or compression weight held by strut or upper control arm and sitting on the floor and you wont find any accuracy in the test. go to your local library and find a chiltons or motors repair manual for pre- 80 vehicles and read the suspension sections. your test as described can only check the wheel bearings for play. turn the tire left and right for strut bearings. never tested any so ill accept your statement. this can all be done while waiting for the stockboy to bring the new tires. like i said if you did these tests to my old truck or any of my previous mopars all pre-79 you would not get a accurate test done. these vehicles take the weight on the lower control arm. the jack or support must lift the lower arm until the upper arm is clear of the jounce bumper. now the joints have all the freeplay detecable if any. older fords and amcs often had the load taken by the upper control arm and the second case applied to them. a proper set of tests usually took 30 minutes my point being if the ball joint is loaded in any manner when you check it you wont feel the freeplay. brake work is where i make the most $$. if you do one side ya gota do the other... sez who ive done brake repair jobs where a less qualified mechanic had screwed things up on one side and only that side needed work. i gave the customer the option of replacing the slightly used shoes on the opposite side tossing them in their trunk or letting me use them on another customers car. usually they would have me check the other brake and replace the shoe. if they didnt want the shoes they got a cost reduction and another person saved bucks on a one side shoe set to get them thru an inspection. my paycheck does... i see. . . . i refuse to do only one side liability. if you work on one side of the brakes and the other side fails guess whos responsible. a caliper that still works and has over 120k miles and a customer only wants to replace the other one that is sticking. 2 months down the road the one that wasnt changed decides to stick bad enough to cause steering problems. same with rear drum wheel cylinders if one leaks replace both left and right. well time has passed since i did brake work and not only have lawsuits increased especially those that cast blame on the innocent but it appears the paycheck is more important than quality workmanship. if a customer refuses then i explain about the liability. i also write it down on the work order that customer refuses service. this has saved my ass a few times. no doubt. however i can remember when mechanics were skilled enough and established well enough in a community that their word was sufficient as a skilled expert and carried the weight as far as cars were concerned that a doctor carries about your health. something else that we have lost to progress. my guarantee was this its guaranteed to work until it breaks. if it breaks bring it back and if the failure was because of my work the repair was free. i did not warranty parts however. repeat customers got a labor price break and senior citizens paid no labor costs. never had a dissatisfied customer. btw this was my experience working at pep boys and speedy mufflers. ntb and other tire specialist shops normally have better techs. ah now that explains much . . . .high school trained off the street help. i was almost under the impression you were talking about real mechanics. as i mentioned i do have my expired ase certs. all i
From : mac davis
any ideals or hints to repair the driver seat recline.dealer fix lasted a year dont want to spend another $100. cant be that hard any pics or words of help. .
From : mac davis
on sat 18 sep 2004 032705 -0400 mryooneek@webtv.net wrote actually its best to have both a light and a guage in the case you dont often look at the guages the light will draw your attention to look at the guage. my 78 lebaron had a neat idea of puttin a small light on the guage when critical info was not in the normal range. these were stock guages too. the newer chrysler dodge product now have an icon that lights on the dash to draw your attention to the guages. thing i always liked about mopars thay usually all had guages instead of idiot lights. love the full gauges in both of our dodges but ive had a chance to appreciate the backup chime and check gauges light too.. sometimes things like overheating can come on pretty fast if you have a mechanical problem and you cant spend all your time watching gauges... i appreciate the truck helping me watch em.. mac .
From : geek
hey red the dodge dealer is not always the answer. i still have the same problem with my 01 ram. i have taken it into several dealers. all 5 star. they all say it shouldnt be doing this but after having it a few days they all tell me they all do it. so cut the guy some slack. geez i have been here for years and i can count on 1 hand the number of times you have posted something helpful. i have nothing against you but geez cut the guy some slack. bob im with you bob. he also gave a smart ass answer to the guy worried about his check engine light. jimbob .
From : redneck tookover hell
hmm. i read an article in consumer reports about motor oil a few years back. they tested nyc cabs. they put synthetic in some regular oil in others. some they ran 7500 miles others 3000 and 5000 miles before changing the oil. there was no discernable difference in engine wear in any of them. i use chevron 5w-30 from costco. i think as long as it is api certified or whatever that little starburst signifies and you change it on time it doesnt make much difference. i change mine every 5k. easier to remember. my 2 cents your mileage may vary. subject mobil 1 vs. valvoline is there really a difference between motor oils dodge says use 5-30 in the 4.7l dak; i used castrol in the neon but switched to valvoline when i got the truck i notice a lot of folks using mobil 1 at least in their posts and was curious to know why. j. .
From : yonzie
subject mobil 1 vs. valvoline is there really a difference between motor oils dodge says use 5-30 in the 4.7l dak; i used castrol in the neon but switched to valvoline when i got the truck i notice a lot of folks using mobil 1 at least in their posts and was curious to know why. j. .
From : mac davis
disconnect the batter for several minutes. that will clear the code. as long as the cause is fixed it should not come back on. jeff t wrote my 02 rams mil light came on but the truck seems to be running fine. turning the ignition key on and off 3x gave me the error code p 1491 which from previous postings means that the ac condensor relay is blown. i replaced it with a factory relay yet still the light remains on. my computer was updated a few months ago by the local dealer. how do i get this thing to turn off specs 2002 ram 1500 4.7l 42k miles jeff .
From : redneck tookover hell
no as long as the other lug nuts are tightened you can loosen and retorque one at a time. no idea what this poster is saying yes you can have the tire on the ground loosen and tighten lug nuts one at a time politics the gentle art of getting votes from the poor and campaign funds from the rich. .
From : tbone
after just changing out the fuel filter wow was the inside element black the problem seems to have cleared when the gauge get half full the low fuel warning comes on . has anyone had this problem is there a cheap solution. .
From : greg o
well i did do something wrong even though i dont know what. i tried it again this morning and got code p0456. what does that mean yeah thats what i figured - but wanted you to check the codes first p0456 - small leak detected in evaporative emission control system probably a loose gas cap. check the cap and if that was it the light will go off in a few ignition cycles. the code will remain in memory for a while but the light will go out. .
From : mac davis
on mon 13 sep 2004 210906 gmt mopaman scott.hendryx.clothes@sbcglobal.net wrote i thought russia would have bombed paris by now. have you frogs ever heard of roy rogers and dale evans they had trigger stuffed many years ago and now peta wants them to bury the thing. since the french invented acne self fisting and stuffing i thought yall could help peta out and suggest the proper way to handle this..... would you like freedom fries with that mac .
From : mac davis
i asked the owner manager about it and his reply was that his shop hasnt broken a wheel stud in 18 years and his repeat business is phenomenal as for extra cost he said that for him torque wrenches were cheap insurance against extra cost. stripping studs is very rare. i have yet to see one overtorqued to the point of it breaking... i have many times and i had one break off while i was driving home from the tire center. because i had left the premises they refused to repair it. on the few ocassions of a stripped stud it takes a few minutes to re-thread them. and if its pretty bad it doesnt take long to put a new stud in. at the shops i worked at none of the experienced techs stripped or broke and studs. now thats just plain stupid. a stud or any threaded fastener with damaged threads which are then chased re-threaded has less than 50% of its original strength. doesnt it matter that peoples lives depend on the quality of your work personally if you did that in my shop youd be looking for a new job. but i have seen a few new guys mess up stuck/frozen/rusted/overtorqued lug nuts. as have i but they can be removed and if the stud has damage it should be replaced. the techs dont even bother telling the superviser or owner about any stud damages as long as its been properly fixed. ah hide from responsibility eh ive often helped the new guys on how to fix their screwups. missing lug nut keys are the easiest to remove i normally dont charge for this service. i helped remove one once . . .wire welded an old socket on it and removed the nut with a breaker bar. ground off the welds and later on the owner found the key. the nut was still usable just not shiny anymore. impact wrenches used to screw up a lot of the locking nut keys . . . . either break it off or use a tight fitting socket to impact it off. so you do deliberately break off studs . . . also break inspections were done while the tires are off. -a|ex yeah it is a little easier to do it then . . . . . personally in my years of experience ive never seen them done or did any brake inspections with the wheel on. i also did brakes and alignments if i see that it needs it i tell the customer. unauthorized work i also do front end shake downs while the car is on the lift tires still on to check suspension components. that would be part of the front alignment wouldnt it btw each type of front suspension has specific procedures for doing suspension component inspections properly. just shaking tires isnt the way to do it. brake work is where i make the most $$. if you do one side ya gota do the other... sez who ive done brake repair jobs where a less qualified mechanic had screwed things up on one side and only that side needed work. i gave the customer the option of replacing the slightly used shoes on the opposite side tossing them in their trunk or letting me use them on another customers car. usually they would have me check the other brake and replace the shoe. if they didnt want the shoes they got a cost reduction and another person saved bucks on a one side shoe set to get them thru an inspection. on a good week its common to make over $1k. but on slow days its a fight to get the oil changes. btw this was my experience working at pep boys and speedy mufflers. ntb and other tire specialist shops normally have better techs. ah now that explains much . . . .high school trained off the street help. i was almost under the impression you were talking about real mechanics. you dont want a master mechanic doing tires he will make more mistakes than a tech that only does tires. wanna bet who do you think did them before techs came along the apprentice mechanic on his way to becoming a master mechanic. it was part of the learning process. but i also knew many master mechanics that did change tires in their own service stations because the apprentice was out pumping gas. there are also idiot techs that dont check specs and replace parts just by looking at the vehicle mileage. no doubt and they throw parts at it until its acidentally fixed. that not being a mechanic. a mechanic develops a diagnosis using whatever tools are needed then fixes the problem directly instead of throwing parts at the vehicle. managers normally dont check up on the techs thats the shop supervisors job. but he too is too busy dealing with court appearances to check up on the techs. gee do you think maybe wheels falling off from broken and over-stressed studs brake failure from uninspected brakes drivers left stranded on some back street or road from incorrect repair work could be the reason for all the court appearances i wouldnt be surprised. budd .
From : fmb
i have just listed some used frilly sissy panties in private auctions ebay.......of course as low as $ 1.99 along with a lot of frilly dresses and petticoats. these are listed as a private auction so your id will not be revealed bid to your hearts content...........we will send them in a plain brown envelope just click on the line below and select the ones that you like. http//cgi6.ebay.com/ws/ebayisapi.dllviewsellersotheritems&userid=gumball101&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=50 thanks gail .
From : tbone
tbone wrote when moved inside of the frame rails and then there is that 1800+ dead thing. 1800 were not proven to be a direct result of the gas tank placement. can you prove that no i didnt think so. do you think that only 1800 people died in this model of truck over all of these years miles the 1800 were the people that were burned directly due to the placement of the fuel tanks. really where exactly is the tank mounted right or left side in front of or behind the rear wheel and for what years now dont run away this time and be specific. run away from your continued attempt to argue and rant yea like you did twice in the 4 wheel drive thread. right or left side i said rear. look at the back of one. i know where the tank is mounted i was trying to make a point that obviously went over your head. the point being that the tank is still between the frame rails. it may sit low but it is still between them. like i said you are comparing apples to houses they have nothing in common. the tank is exposed hanging below the rear bumper. but the rear bumper and the frame rails still protect it. you still have to hit it hard enough to crush the rear bumper and bend the frame or with something low and strong enough to get under the bumper and still hit the tank. the only thing protecting the tank on the gms more like hiding it is the body sheet metal and there is one on each side doubling the chances for an inferno. how much force do you really think that it takes to crush sheet metal. not sure on years. i dont know what years they made model changes. through the 90s and ill have to check but i dont think the newer ones have been redesigned. they are a bad design. it is not a bad design not really a great one but nowhere near as bad as gm where the tank is sandwiched between the body and the frame. the tank is mounted low because people want more room in the vehicle and also want the spare inside the truck so they dont have to get their hands dirty yea like they need an suv so the body pan was lowered to make more room and that dropped the tank. there are still far fewer fire deaths with the jeeps than the gms so few in fact that a web search for jeep fuel fires shows just about nothing while one on gm has thousands of hits. you do the math and stop comparing apples to space ships. lol you are comparing apples to oranges again just like it the 4 wheel drive thread. a 75mph rear end collision is not even remotely the same as a 35mph t-bone i couldnt resist that caused these gms to turn into a fireball. bull. it wasnt just 35mph side impacts. all 1800 deaths you noted were 35mph side impacts rofl. was it just 35 mph side impacts no and i never said that it was. what i said that it doesnt take more than that to turn one of these trucks into a fire ball and there is no excuse to put something like that on the roads especially when they were warned by their own engineering staff. but gotta have those dollars huh miles! it is funny that the one i accuse the most of corporate greed is the only one actively defending gm here lol. heck the tests done for tv cameras were faked. you deny that no but unlike tv and the movies things dont always go boom when hit by something and they wanted to prove a point. they were completely wrong for doing it that way but it has happened in real life and will happen again as long as these aging trucks are still on the road. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : mac davis
my 2001 ram a/c works fine. have not heard of many people having a/c problems. mryooneek@webtv.net wrote how many people out there had early failure air conditioner evaporators leaks my 2001 318 ram 1500 2wd with 80k leaks already. calling shops including the dodge dealers they say they had a lot of leaking ones. why should it leak being barely 4 yrs old my 1978 lebaron doesnt leak! they tell me the screens in the cowl fresh air intake are too coarse and lets dirt settle on the core causing it to corrode. they say jeeps had a screen in it fine enough that worked in similiar years i curiously looked at my beat up t-bird and their screen looks like 320 mesh! who had similiar problems and what did you find if you replaced one yourself was it corroded from dirt or is it fractured because of cheap materials/construction i doubt it getting a hold of dodge and seeing if they will do something about it is gonna work. did anybody seems i see quite of few rams with the windows down last couple days with temps in the mid 80s. coincidence seems like dodge knew of the problem . i feel sorry for anyone who paid almost $700 to replace it. i will do the job myself and be installing my own screen if i find it corroded from debri. what a pita..... any feedback greatly appreciate it.... frustrated .