Noise When Turning
From : sparky
Q: 2003 ram 1500 quad cab. when making turns can hear a grinding type noise coming from the rear end possibly in vicinity of the wheels. does same thing when making a turn while backing. any ideas what could be causing this thanks sparky .
Replies:
From : geekboy
suddenly without warning roy exclaimed 3/18/2008 1218 am i have a 2001 dakota and it is making a noise from behind the cab somewhere that sounds like im dragging my muffler metal on the road sound or something rattling under the bed. nothing is dragging back there though. the sound gets faster asi drive faster and happens mostly as i accelerate or hit a bump. applying the brakes or putting the transmission in neutral does not stop the sound. the sound is not consistent either. i took the drums off the rear wheels yesterday and nothing came out that would indicate an object rolling around in the brakes. i also tried to shake or turn the prop shaft and that was very solid. any suggestions did you check the guard on the cat jerry he has a feline in the back and someone to make sure it stays there quietly jmc i cant wait for the rabbit to respond to this.g roy it aint gonna happen. the ole girl walked away in a huff so i aint responding.... vbg denny . 222 343414 47df97e7$0$4968$4c368faf@roadrunner.com suddenly without warning roy exclaimed 3/18/2008 1218 am i have a 2001 dakota and it is making a noise from behind the cab somewhere that sounds like im dragging my muffler metal on the road sound or something rattling under the bed. nothing is dragging back there though. the sound gets faster asi drive faster and happens mostly as i accelerate or hit a bump. applying the brakes or putting the transmission in neutral does not stop the sound. the sound is not consistent either. i took the drums off the rear wheels yesterday and nothing came out that would indicate an object rolling around in the brakes. i also tried to shake or turn the prop shaft and that was very solid. any suggestions did you check the guard on the cat jerry he has a feline in the back and someone to make sure it stays there quietly jmc i cant wait for the rabbit to respond to this.g roy it aint gonna happen. the ole girl walked away in a huff so i aint responding.... vbg denny .
From : fmb
suddenly without warning roy exclaimed 3/18/2008 1218 am i have a 2001 dakota and it is making a noise from behind the cab somewhere that sounds like im dragging my muffler metal on the road sound or something rattling under the bed. nothing is dragging back there though. the sound gets faster asi drive faster and happens mostly as i accelerate or hit a bump. applying the brakes or putting the transmission in neutral does not stop the sound. the sound is not consistent either. i took the drums off the rear wheels yesterday and nothing came out that would indicate an object rolling around in the brakes. i also tried to shake or turn the prop shaft and that was very solid. any suggestions did you check the guard on the cat jerry he has a feline in the back and someone to make sure it stays there quietly jmc i cant wait for the rabbit to respond to this.g roy it aint gonna happen. the ole girl walked away in a huff so i aint responding.... vbg well it did and you did. what a response it was!!g your on your own with this one pal. bfg roy denny .
From : tom lawrence
found it! the wiring bundle under the dash drivers side was resting on the top of the parking brake assembly. each time i pushed the parking brake the top of the pedal rubbed chafed and wore 5 wires in the harness. i have separated them taped sealed and spliced the damaged wires. let this be a cautionary notice to all other dakota owners to check the placement of their wires under the dash. thanks for your help!- ben . 222 343527 zfxfj.35473$j41.20879@svr14..prodigy.net mike wrote wrote why wouldnt the hcs increase when the exhaust gas recirculation valve opens what is it allowing into the intake manifold/ combustion chamber co2 co o2 nox and hc. yep the egr valve allows exhaust gas back into the combustion chamber but it is only a very small percentage of the total combution chamber volume. so if the air fuel mixture is lean to begin with how does adding exhaust gas make the flame propagate better the exhaust gas was already burnt once in the combustion chamber how does running it through the combustion chamber a second time cause the hc to increase even further see above. isnt the hc reading from the smog test unburned hydrocarbons yes it is. ever open an egr valve at idle yep. did the engine run better or worse didnt run at all they dont run well on an inert gas. do you suppose hc goes up or down if you open the egr at idle being the engine wouldnt stay running i would say it went down. ; if it would stay running it would have a lean misfire that would lead to an increase in hc. when the exhaust gas recirculation valve opens what happens to manifold pressure it goes up. what does the power valve do when manifold pressure goes up it opens and allows more hc gasoline to flow into the venturi in the carb yep thats how the power enrichment works as well but why such a jump in hc this is the first time i remember seeing a nox problem fixed were the hc reading jumped up like that. not for me. its very common on some engines to repair a non functioning egr for a nox failure and have the car fail on hc. typical 4 cylinder where the egr feeds into the intake ports individually 4 separate egr passages and 2 or 3 are plugged. the 1 or 2 that do flow egr are over fed and cause a misfire. roto-root the passages and everything is fine... does this have anything to do with the vehicle being equiped with an air pump the high hc maybe yes maybe no. thats why theres a thing called diagnostics. id watch the reading with the air pump disabled. yes id like to see the results with the air pump disabled. the op has a 21 year old truck what are the odds hat the air pump is original i couldnt get the air pump on my bought new 85 f-150 to last more than three years. the air pump is original equipment. i bought the truck new and i have done all my own work on it including changing the lifters and changing a blown head gasket two separate operations. so i know the air pump is original. whether its working as it should today i cant say. i tested it a few years ago according to the manual and it seemed to be working then. what has me puzzled at this point is which of the 4 operations i performed on the fuel and ignition systems contributed to the skyrocketing of co emissions on the third test test results reprinted below. hc and no came down significantly as did o2 but at the expense of co. only the enrichening of the idle mixture and the widening of the canister purge line ports in the wall of the carb throttle body could have fattened up the mix which would have resulted in the higher co and lower o2 readings. assuming no freakishly timed breakdown of the air pump its operation would have been the same for all 3 tests whether working or not. if the guy who owns the smog shop will allow it i would like to run another pre-test and see if clamping down the canister purge hose changes the readings mid-test. i leaned out the idle mixture screws just a bit after the third test. they were pretty close to lean best idle as it was. i cant imagine that the small change that i made to the idle mix could have such a strong affect on the emissions with the engine running at 1325 rpms. so the enlarging of the canister purge line ports into the venturi just above the throttle plates is the likely suspect imo. %co2 %o2 hc ppm %co nox ppm 15mph 1st test 10.8 5.9 34 .01 3641-fail 2nd test 10.4 6.7 132* .01 626 3rd test 12.2 3.6 82 1.02-fail 358 25mph 1st test 10.7 6.0 26 .01 3225-fail 2nd test 10.7 6.1 65 .04 606 3rd test 12.5 2.9 73 1.14** 191 1st test - 1. egr run from egr port on carb resulting in essentially no egr function 2. msd ignition hooked up 2nd test
From : tom lawrencetom lawrence
on sat 22 mar 2008 234756 -0700 hayseed nothere@bogus.com wrote anybody know how to disable the damn seatbelt chime/gong im driving around on the ranch in and out of the rig constantly and the chime is driving me nuts. thanks bob my 2004 there is a procedure to do this and it was in the owners manual. ill check the manual tomorrow and see if i can find it. you can also do it with a scan tool the right one probalby not a generic one... but the owners manual method takes only the key and a few minutes. yea drove me nuts too i dont belt in when plowing... hmmmm.... i used the belt when plowing. of course i never got out of the truck. .
From : tom lawrence
usually a sick one will show in its colour like you describe yours showing a lean mix with their white ceramics. with a modified carb and rough idle i also think lean miss. how did you set up your idle mix screws mike 86/00 cj7 laredo 33x9.5 bfg muds glass nose to tail in 00 new frame in the works for 08. some canadian bush trip and build photos http//mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com simpson wrote i pose this question in my ongoing quest to improve performance on my 87 dakota without spending unnecessarily. actually its not the spending that bothers me. i just dont feel like changing my plugs. condemn me for a lazy good-for-nothing if you will but thats just the way it is today. the reason i know that they look healthy is that every once in a while i pull one to see how its doing. hello plug how ya doin i come to watch your changing huin huin - slangy contraction of hueing from hue a gradation or variety of a color; tint the plugs have nice unworn square electrodes and are properly gapped and over all have a nice healthy appearance albeit the ceramic insulators are a bit on the white side. can i assume that they are in good shape or is there some internal condition unseen by mortal eye that can develop that causes plug performance to deteriorate the truck idles a bit rough nothing at all severe but something that i think could be improved. i am ruling out the fuel delivery for the moment and concentrating on the ignition. the cap and rotor appear to be in good condition. the ignition wires all measure a bit below the low end of the resistance range as specified in the service manual 250 to 600 ohms per inch. mine are about 200 to 220 ohms per inch and are not that old. .
From : scootter
wrote why wouldnt the hcs increase when the exhaust gas recirculation valve opens what is it allowing into the intake manifold/ combustion chamber co2 co o2 nox and hc. yep the egr valve allows exhaust gas back into the combustion chamber but it is only a very small percentage of the total combution chamber volume. so if the air fuel mixture is lean to begin with how does adding exhaust gas make the flame propagate better the exhaust gas was already burnt once in the combustion chamber how does running it through the combustion chamber a second time cause the hc to increase even further see above. isnt the hc reading from the smog test unburned hydrocarbons yes it is. ever open an egr valve at idle yep. did the engine run better or worse didnt run at all they dont run well on an inert gas. do you suppose hc goes up or down if you open the egr at idle being the engine wouldnt stay running i would say it went down. ; if it would stay running it would have a lean misfire that would lead to an increase in hc. when the exhaust gas recirculation valve opens what happens to manifold pressure it goes up. what does the power valve do when manifold pressure goes up it opens and allows more hc gasoline to flow into the venturi in the carb yep thats how the power enrichment works as well but why such a jump in hc this is the first time i remember seeing a nox problem fixed were the hc reading jumped up like that. not for me. its very common on some engines to repair a non functioning egr for a nox failure and have the car fail on hc. typical 4 cylinder where the egr feeds into the intake ports individually 4 separate egr passages and 2 or 3 are plugged. the 1 or 2 that do flow egr are over fed and cause a misfire. roto-root the passages and everything is fine... does this have anything to do with the vehicle being equiped with an air pump the high hc maybe yes maybe no. thats why theres a thing called diagnostics. id watch the reading with the air pump disabled. yes id like to see the results with the air pump disabled. the op has a 21 year old truck what are the odds hat the air pump is original i couldnt get the air pump on my bought new 85 f-150 to last more than three years. air pumps tend to have a generic universal design what if instead of a 4 cfm air pump made for a 3.9 liter engine he got a 10 cfm replacement pump made for a 7.4 liter engine. you -can- pump too much air into a catalytic converter and snuff out the fire. yep i see your point here. my experience has been that aftermarket emission parts are junk. we dont see too many air pumps on the east coast. dunno why they were pretty common in the day that the ops truck was built. they sure were but living in the rust belt they dont last very long and are long ago rusted away. now theyre likely to be electric. .
From : fmb
aarcuda69062 wrote the signal from venturi vacuum was to weak to operate an egr valve in a reliable way so it needed to be amplified and then the same old egr could be used. the reason it was tied to the weaker venturi vacuum was that would allow for more accurate metering of air and fuel under a wider range of operating conditions. that was chryslers way of doing it. thats all that can be said. for someone who claims to know something that is as good as saying you dont. i didnt say chrysler used the same engines for all those years i said the egrs were all pretty much the same in that era. the means of controlling the vacuum which determined how much exhaust gas was delivered and when it was delivered is what changed depending on make model and year. that was the purpose of vacuum hose configurations vacuum amplifiers or transducers and different vacuum ports. the difference in the valve itself had more to do with how they fit on the engine rather than how they behaved. at any rate egr clearly has a huge effect on nox emissions and does completely change the way air and fuel burn inside an engine. that mains the entire way the engine is tuned needs to change to accompany the changes that egr creates. for the most part egr is beneficial. it is a lot like getting an octane boost at no extra cost and does allow for better fuel economy as well as overall better emissions *if* the engine is tuned to accommodate the changes in burn characteristics. that means changing air/fuel ratio as well as timing. the modern vehicles computer takes care of all of that for you so yes you can get along quite nicely with any knowledge of it. -jim ----== posted via pro.com - unlimited-unrestricted-secure usenet ==---- http//www.pro.com the #1 group service in the world! 100000 groups ---= - total privacy via encryption =--- . 222 343516 2tlcu3ln7sl7c0r0ovf9hdlhonpkrm17f1@4ax.com on sat 22 mar 2008 234756 -0700 hayseed nothere@bogus.com wrote anybody know how to disable the damn seatbelt chime/gong im driving around on the ranch in and out of the rig constantly and the chime is driving me nuts. thanks bob my 2004 there is a procedure to do this and it was in the owners manual. ill check the manual tomorrow and see if i can find it. you can also do it with a scan tool the right one probalby not a generic one... but the owners manual method takes only the key and a few minutes. yea drove me nuts too i dont belt in when plowing... this may be the procedure that i followed sounds right did a google search the enhanced warning system beltalert can be enabled or disabled by your authorized dealer or by following these steps note the following steps must occur within the first 60 seconds of the ignition switch being turned to the on or start position. the manufacturer does not recommend deactivating the enhanced warning system beltalert. 1. turn the ignition switch to the off position and fasten the drivers seat belt. 2. start the engine and wait for the seat belt warning light to turn off. 3. within 60 seconds of starting the vehicle unbuckle and then re-buckle the drivers seat belt at least three times ending with the seat belt buckled. 4. turn off the engine. a single chime will sound to signify that you have successfully completed the programming. the enhanced warning system beltalert can be reactivated by repeating this procedure. note although the enhanced warning system beltalert has been deactivated the seat belt warning light will continue to illuminate while the drivers seat belt remains unfastened. .
From : jon
not sure if its the same but the jeep zj mines a 98 5.9 has a prob with the parking brakes shoes in the rear drums sticking i had a prob which i originally thought was an axle prob but turned out to be the shoes rubbing on the drum..... if it is this it will show wasted shoes when you take the rear drums off and i know that there was a tsb for the replacement of some axle parts and will be done free under warranty!! mine was out of warranty i replaced the shoes and backed of the tensioners.. you can do a search on the web for it else i think i might still have it saved somewhere my symptoms when very hot during mostly tight right turns i would get a pulling or a grinding clicking from what seemed like the rear right or a clang / bang when moving from neutral to drive when the lights turn green. good luck jon 2003 ram 1500 quad cab. when making turns can hear a grinding type noise coming from the rear end possibly in vicinity of the wheels. does same thing when making a turn while backing. any ideas what could be causing this thanks sparky .
From : chippa
try checking your gear oilyou may have dry bearings also remove your brake drums check the tension on you brake shoesyou may have a spring that came loose .
From : geekboy
front wheel drive sharper the turn louder the clunk and pop cv joints..check for torn boots if so there done for.. damage is done already. 2004.5 2500 ctd 85000 miles when i make low speed turns i get what sounds like a clunking noise. as if something were rubbing it is a multiple sound clunk clunk clunk any one have an idea i cant see anything loose etc. -- joe u-joints north mexico -- posted via a free usenet account from http//www.tera.com .