Noise Sounds Like Dragging Muffler

From : jerryroy

Q: i have a 2001 dakota and it is making a noise from behind the cab somewhere that sounds like im dragging my muffler metal on the road sound or something rattling under the bed. nothing is dragging back there though. the sound gets faster asi drive faster and happens mostly as i accelerate or hit a bump. applying the brakes or putting the transmission in neutral does not stop the sound. the sound is not consistent either. i took the drums off the rear wheels yesterday and nothing came out that would indicate an object rolling around in the brakes. i also tried to shake or turn the prop shaft and that was very solid. any suggestions -- jerry .

Replies:

From : roy

simpson wrote mike romain wrote usually a sick one will show in its colour like you describe yours showing a lean mix with their white ceramics. with a modified carb and rough idle i also think lean miss. how did you set up your idle mix screws hi mike... i use the lean best idle method described here http//www.redlineweber.com/html/tech/carburetorsetupandleanbest.htm but even if i fatten up the idle mixture considerable i still get a rough idle. i have read that a rough idle is common to this particular version of the dodge/chrysler 3.9l v6. steve ws first reply in this thread speaks to the nature of this engine that causes it to idle roughly yup sometimes there is just so much you can do to the old beasties... the emissions sniffer gives me better readings by a whole bunch with only 1/4 turn lean on both idle mix screws. once is was a fail/pass difference i got the retest on the spot. that gives the engine a little rumble at idle. a little on the carbs can do a lot when you are right at the cusp of a perfect mix. mike 86/00 cj7 laredo 33x9.5 bfg muds glass nose to tail in 00 new frame in the works for 08. some canadian bush trip and build photos http//mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com .

From : roy

mike wrote yep thats how the power enrichment works as well but why such a jump in hc this is the first time i remember seeing a nox problem fixed were the hc reading jumped up like that. does this have anything to do with the vehicle being equiped with an air pump we dont see too many air pumps on the east coast. hey mike. im not trying to prove you wrong but my 1990 gmc sierra with 5.7l just did the same thing. i failed the emmisions test here in texas recently. reason was nox too high. i put a new egr valve on her and she passed with the new egr valve on her. but my hc went up from 64 at high speed 25mph to 127. on the low speed test 15mph hc went from 116 to 127. weird my truck is now running better than it has in 3 years. bob no problem bob. i just dont remember seeing it. my guess would be that i was watching the nox readings because that was the problem being worked on at the time. since the new obd ii emissions test no longer uses an exhaust analyzer in this area it has been a while since i have been able to use one. our emissions testing here is done using the diag connector under the dash basicly if there are no trouble codes stored and the monitors are run it passes. .

From : jerry

on mar 17 948=a0am roy r...@fhome.net wrote i have a 2001 dakota and it is making a noise from behind the cab somewhere that sounds like im dragging my muffler metal on the road sound or something rattling under the bed. nothing is dragging back there though. the sound gets faster asi drive faster and happens mostly as i accelerate or hit a bump. applying the brakes or putting the transmission in neutral does not stop the sound. the sound is not consistent either. i took the drums off the rear wheels yesterday and nothing came out that would indicate an object rolling around in the brakes. i also tried to shake or turn the prop shaft and that was very solid. any suggestions did you check the guard on the cat i havent. thanks for the suggestion ill check that tonight. -- jerry .

From : jerry

this is a multi-part message in mime format. ------=nextpart00000e101c88817.922b0f60 content-type text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 content-transfer-encoding quoted-printable 2004.5 2500 ctd 85000 miles when i make low speed turns i get what sounds like a clunking noise. as = if something were rubbing it is a multiple sound clunk clunk clunk any one have an idea i cant see anything loose etc. --=20 joe ------=nextpart00000e101c88817.922b0f60 content-type text/html; charset=iso-8859-1 content-transfer-encoding quoted-printable !doctype html public -//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en htmlhead meta http-equiv=3dcontent-type content=3dtext/html; = charset=3diso-8859-1 meta content=3dmshtml 6.00.6000.16608 name=3dgenerator style/style /head body bgcolor=3d#17d8e8 div2004.5 2500 ctd 85000 miles/div divwhen i make low speed turns i get what sounds like a clunking = noise. as if=20 something were rubbing it is a multiple sound clunk clunk = clunk/div divany one have an idea i cant see anything loose etc./div divbr-- brjoe/div div /div div /div/body/html ------=nextpart00000e101c88817.922b0f60-- .

From : roy

2004.5 2500 ctd 85000 miles when i make low speed turns i get what sounds like a clunking noise. as if something were rubbing it is a multiple sound clunk clunk clunk any one have an idea i cant see anything loose etc. -- joe u-joints north mexico -- posted via a free usenet account from http//www.tera.com .

From : curmudgeoncurmudgeon

this is a multi-part message in mime format. ------=nextpart000006601c88870.3cd90770 content-type text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 content-transfer-encoding quoted-printable wheel bearing 2004.5 2500 ctd 85000 miles when i make low speed turns i get what sounds like a clunking noise. = as if something were rubbing it is a multiple sound clunk clunk = clunk any one have an idea i cant see anything loose etc. --=20 joe ------=nextpart000006601c88870.3cd90770 content-type text/html; charset=iso-8859-1 content-transfer-encoding quoted-printable !doctype html public -//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en htmlhead meta http-equiv=3dcontent-type content=3dtext/html; = charset=3diso-8859-1 meta content=3dmshtml 6.00.6000.16609 name=3dgenerator style/style /head body bgcolor=3d#17d8e8 divfont face=3darial size=3d2wheel bearing/font/div divfont face=3darial size=3d2/font /div div /div blockquote dir=3dltr=20 style=3dpadding-right 0px; padding-left 5px; margin-left 5px; = border-left #000000 2px solid; margin-right 0px a=20 = p.super.com/a.../div div2004.5 2500 ctd 85000 miles/div divwhen i make low speed turns i get what sounds like a clunking = noise. as=20 if something were rubbing it is a multiple sound clunk clunk = clunk/div divany one have an idea i cant see anything loose etc./div divbr-- brjoe/div div /div div /div/blockquote/body/html ------=nextpart000006601c88870.3cd90770-- .

From : curmudgeon

suddenly without warning roy exclaimed 3/18/2008 1218 am i have a 2001 dakota and it is making a noise from behind the cab somewhere that sounds like im dragging my muffler metal on the road sound or something rattling under the bed. nothing is dragging back there though. the sound gets faster asi drive faster and happens mostly as i accelerate or hit a bump. applying the brakes or putting the transmission in neutral does not stop the sound. the sound is not consistent either. i took the drums off the rear wheels yesterday and nothing came out that would indicate an object rolling around in the brakes. i also tried to shake or turn the prop shaft and that was very solid. any suggestions did you check the guard on the cat jerry he has a feline in the back and someone to make sure it stays there quietly jmc i cant wait for the rabbit to respond to this.g roy . 222 343410 47df0153$0$16671$4c368faf@roadrunner.com suddenly without warning roy exclaimed 3/18/2008 1218 am i have a 2001 dakota and it is making a noise from behind the cab somewhere that sounds like im dragging my muffler metal on the road sound or something rattling under the bed. nothing is dragging back there though. the sound gets faster asi drive faster and happens mostly as i accelerate or hit a bump. applying the brakes or putting the transmission in neutral does not stop the sound. the sound is not consistent either. i took the drums off the rear wheels yesterday and nothing came out that would indicate an object rolling around in the brakes. i also tried to shake or turn the prop shaft and that was very solid. any suggestions did you check the guard on the cat jerry he has a feline in the back and someone to make sure it stays there quietly jmc i cant wait for the rabbit to respond to this.g roy .

From : roy

mike romain wrote usually a sick one will show in its colour like you describe yours showing a lean mix with their white ceramics. with a modified carb and rough idle i also think lean miss. how did you set up your idle mix screws hi mike... i use the lean best idle method described here http//www.redlineweber.com/html/tech/carburetorsetupandleanbest.htm but even if i fatten up the idle mixture considerable i still get a rough idle. i have read that a rough idle is common to this particular version of the dodge/chrysler 3.9l v6. steve ws first reply in this thread speaks to the nature of this engine that causes it to idle roughly lets see an 87 v-6 no balance shaft with a crankshaft that wasnt the best design for smooth running. and it idles a bit rough. yup sounds 100% normal to me. think of the way that engine runs. the power pulses are not evenly spaced. kind of like if you built a set of stairs with every third step 15 tall. think it might affect the way you run up them aside from that i had one instance recently where i was getting a comparatively stable idle as read by the tachometer function on a digital meter. i prepared the vehicle up for setting the idle speed as per the service manual. i used a digital meter and it fluctuated only between 70 and 71. you have to multiply the display times 10. usually it fluctuates between about 66 and 74. for the life of me i havent been able to recreate that stability but it was not that long ago so the ignition parts are probable not the reason. all indications point to the air/fuel condition. i recently removed all vacuum hoses from the manifold vacuum and plugged up all ports. this would be for the air switch relief valve the heater vent doors purge solenoid bleed vacuum kicker bleed for idle electronic spark advance and the rough idle seemed to continue. to be sure i should do it again and check with the tach meter. mike 86/00 cj7 laredo 33x9.5 bfg muds glass nose to tail in 00 new frame in the works for 08. some canadian bush trip and build photos http//mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com simpson wrote i pose this question in my ongoing quest to improve performance on my 87 dakota without spending unnecessarily. actually its not the spending that bothers me. i just dont feel like changing my plugs. condemn me for a lazy good-for-nothing if you will but thats just the way it is today. the reason i know that they look healthy is that every once in a while i pull one to see how its doing. hello plug how ya doin i come to watch your changing huin huin - slangy contraction of hueing from hue a gradation or variety of a color; tint the plugs have nice unworn square electrodes and are properly gapped and over all have a nice healthy appearance albeit the ceramic insulators are a bit on the white side. can i assume that they are in good shape or is there some internal condition unseen by mortal eye that can develop that causes plug performance to deteriorate the truck idles a bit rough nothing at all severe but something that i think could be improved. i am ruling out the fuel delivery for the moment and concentrating on the ignition. the cap and rotor appear to be in good condition. the ignition wires all measure a bit below the low end of the resistance range as specified in the service manual 250 to 600 ohms per inch. mine are about 200 to 220 ohms per inch and are not that old. .

From : denny

steve w. wrote wstiefer wrote steve w. wrote simpson wrote i pose this question in my ongoing quest to improve performance on my 87 dakota without spending unnecessarily. snip the msd units do a great job if you have an engine that needs them. a stock engine just wont need one. now take an engine being force fed by a blower or a large turbo one that develops enough cylinder pressure to almost pre-ignite the charge and you need the msd to light it off and keep it lit because the mix will be dense enough that it will be hard to light with the single spark from a stock system. of course you could always switch over to a vertex nag and create a spark large enough to light up a small city!!! just my luck the one i bought used and resoldered some wires on stranded me. soooo sent it to msd for repair. they redid my solder jobwas perfectly ok tested it and sent it back. same sh-t. 73 mustang 351 cleveland 3 angle valve job gapless rings offy dual plane carter 750 electronic distributor port platesetc. etc. i built the c-6 with torringtons and modified perf valve body built the 9 with richmond 411s and detoit locker. dont have the time off the top of my head but won a trophy first time out. just kids........... .

From : denny

aarcuda69062 wrote wrote as for the chrysler lean burn crap - that was easy to fix. what was so incredibly stupid was it took chrysler engineers 10 years and near bankruptcy to figure out how to fix it. thats the way innovation is. ultradrive innovation . 222 343522 nonelson-7df5e0.10100723032008@.chi.sbcglobal.net wrote yes it is. ever open an egr valve at idle yep. did the engine run better or worse didnt run at all they dont run well on an inert gas. next time dont open it so far. try a 10% or 20% command on your scn tool instead of 80% . do you suppose hc goes up or down if you open the egr at idle being the engine wouldnt stay running i would say it went down. ; if it would stay running it would have a lean misfire that would lead to an increase in hc. no it wouldnt be a lean misfire. lean misfire comes from too much air and not enough fuel. opening the egr does not add more air. the exhaust gasses displace what would have been combustible mixture in the combustion chamber the actual ratio of that combustible mixture doesnt change. if you have an engine with a leaking egr valve at idle fattening up the mixture doesnt improve how the engine will idle. comparing secondary spark lines on a ignition scope a lean mixture looks completely different than a stuck open or leaking egr valve. air pumps tend to have a generic universal design what if instead of a 4 cfm air pump made for a 3.9 liter engine he got a 10 cfm replacement pump made for a 7.4 liter engine. you -can- pump too much air into a catalytic converter and snuff out the fire. yep i see your point here. my experience has been that aftermarket emission parts are junk. yup. .

From : roy

i have a 2001 dakota and it is making a noise from behind the cab somewhere that sounds like im dragging my muffler metal on the road sound or something rattling under the bed. nothing is dragging back there though. the sound gets faster asi drive faster and happens mostly as i accelerate or hit a bump. applying the brakes or putting the transmission in neutral does not stop the sound. the sound is not consistent either. i took the drums off the rear wheels yesterday and nothing came out that would indicate an object rolling around in the brakes. i also tried to shake or turn the prop shaft and that was very solid. any suggestions did you check the guard on the cat jerry .

From : jmc

this is a multi-part message in mime format. ------=nextpart000006601c88870.3cd90770 content-type text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 content-transfer-encoding quoted-printable wheel bearing 2004.5 2500 ctd 85000 miles when i make low speed turns i get what sounds like a clunking noise. = as if something were rubbing it is a multiple sound clunk clunk = clunk any one have an idea i cant see anything loose etc. --=20 joe ------=nextpart000006601c88870.3cd90770 content-type text/html; charset=iso-8859-1 content-transfer-encoding quoted-printable !doctype html public -//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en htmlhead meta http-equiv=3dcontent-type content=3dtext/html; = charset=3diso-8859-1 meta content=3dmshtml 6.00.6000.16609 name=3dgenerator style/style /head body bgcolor=3d#17d8e8 divfont face=3darial size=3d2wheel bearing/font/div divfont face=3darial size=3d2/font /div div /div blockquote dir=3dltr=20 style=3dpadding-right 0px; padding-left 5px; margin-left 5px; = border-left #000000 2px solid; margin-right 0px a=20 = p.super.com/a.../div div2004.5 2500 ctd 85000 miles/div divwhen i make low speed turns i get what sounds like a clunking = noise. as=20 if something were rubbing it is a multiple sound clunk clunk = clunk/div divany one have an idea i cant see anything loose etc./div divbr-- brjoe/div div /div div /div/blockquote/body/html ------=nextpart000006601c88870.3cd90770-- .

From : roy

2004.5 2500 ctd 85000 miles when i make low speed turns i get what sounds like a clunking noise. as if something were rubbing it is a multiple sound clunk clunk clunk any one have an idea i cant see anything loose etc. -- joe u-joints north mexico -- posted via a free usenet account from http//www.tera.com . 222 343413 naldj.21055$ej5.10251@svr29..prodigy.net front wheel drive sharper the turn louder the clunk and pop cv joints..check for torn boots if so there done for.. damage is done already. 2004.5 2500 ctd 85000 miles when i make low speed turns i get what sounds like a clunking noise. as if something were rubbing it is a multiple sound clunk clunk clunk any one have an idea i cant see anything loose etc. -- joe u-joints north mexico -- posted via a free usenet account from http//www.tera.com .

From : roy

wrote aarcuda69062 wrote the signal from venturi vacuum was to weak to operate an egr valve in a reliable way so it needed to be amplified and then the same old egr could be used. the reason it was tied to the weaker venturi vacuum was that would allow for more accurate metering of air and fuel under a wider range of operating conditions. that was chryslers way of doing it. thats all that can be said. for someone who claims to know something that is as good as saying you dont. thats hilarious coming from someone whos above statement describes the egr as metering air and fuel. i didnt say chrysler used the same engines for all those years i said the egrs were all pretty much the same in that era. must be why they all had the same part number not. the means of controlling the vacuum which determined how much exhaust gas was delivered and when it was delivered is what changed depending on make model and year. now youre getting it. did the 87 dakota v-6 use a vacuum amplifier that was the purpose of vacuum hose configurations vacuum amplifiers or transducers and different vacuum ports. the difference in the valve itself had more to do with how they fit on the engine rather than how they behaved. sounds like something the guy at the junkyard would say. at any rate egr clearly has a huge effect on nox emissions and does completely change the way air and fuel burn inside an engine. never said otherwise. that mains the entire way the engine is tuned needs to change to accompany the changes that egr creates. indeed. for the most part egr is beneficial. it is a lot like getting an octane boost at no extra cost and does allow for better fuel economy as well as overall better emissions *if* the engine is tuned to accommodate the changes in burn characteristics. that means changing air/fuel ratio as well as timing. which is not the same as asserting that the egr changes the air fuel ratio. the modern vehicles computer takes care of all of that for you so yes you can get along quite nicely with any knowledge of it. absolutely. .

From : denny

on sat 22 mar 2008 234756 -0700 hayseed nothere@bogus.com wrote anybody know how to disable the damn seatbelt chime/gong im driving around on the ranch in and out of the rig constantly and the chime is driving me nuts. thanks bob a friend has a dodge magnum and has the seat belts fastened and tucked into the upholstery between the seat and seat-back.. low tech but it might work for you... mac please remove splinters before emailing .