New to me used car prep
From : Annonymous
Q: just change the oil if it has good oil pressure dont worry about it. my 98 dakota has 150k on it and ive never dun a kerosene flush or anything and it keeps good oil psi. coolant flush and tune up would be good. just take a look at the belt if it shows no signs of cracks or anything it dont need replacing. calvinlbrown@hotmail.com wrote hello i am seriously considering buying a 2000 dodge durango 75k mi from a private seller. assuming the test drive and mechanics inspection dont turn anything nasty up heres what i plan do do once i get it... ***ive done research on the net and have found that the biggest complaint about this vehicle is the sludge factory engine http//www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/dodgeduroil.html. since i dont know the oil changing regimine i have to assume the worst... i was hoping to counter this by trying *a* a severe treatment of auto rx http//www.auto-rx.com/pages/applications2.htm or *b* a classic kerosine flush http//forums.probetalk.com/archive/index.php/t-4052.html. i am really leaning towards the auto rx though i am sure someone is bound to call it snakes oil i figured that it looks legit and i have yet to read a negative comment so i figure it cant be so bad. obviously i would follow up with regular oil changes which should keep it clean and visually check the pan after 25k or so. ***these are the other things i would do myself. ******coolant flush ******tune up new plugs wires and pcv ******add some fuel system cleaner for the first few tanks ******replace belts though not timing ******a thorough detailing ***these are the things i would get the shop to do... ******tranny flush ******power steering flush ******replace brakes & fluid flush mainly for the warranty ******possibly timing belt if it looks the part i am pretty capable and have done my fair share of work on cars. has anyone got anything else that they think would be of benefit i am aware of the dangers of stirring up the sludge in the engine but i think its worth the benefit. same thing on the transmission i dont think it has enough miles to say the gunk is holding it together quite yet. any opinions adds subtracts warnings are greatly appreciated. thanks. .
Replies:
From : iso2022jpqhachiroku1bboam2f1b28b
i have a 2001 dodge dakota slt with a key fob issue. the batterery is good in the fob. i took the truck to the dealer and they tested the fob and the fob was giving out a signal. the fob will not unlock the doors and panic button will not work. i have tried to program the the fob to the truck but no luck. the door locks function properly from inside switch. im looking for other ideas before i go back to the dealer and loose and arm and leg. .
From : scott
from dj spirithorsenospam@adelphia.net subject 97 dodge dakota oil pressure drop when warm date wednesday december 06 2006 1230 pm 97 dodge dakota 4x4 5.2l i have been chasing this oil pressure problem around and decided to see what this group thinks. the op is 40+ when started and remains until normal operating temperature is achieved. it then drops down to 20psi or the low range on the gauge but not below the lower limit indicator. when under acceleration or load it sounds like lifter rattle. i replaced the sending unit because the old one wouldnt read the low signal and dropped the gauge to 0psi. new filter and oil 20w-50 florida and still not maintaining the pressure when normal operating temp. i read a post on a web site that explained the thrust bearing was bad which allowed a 1/8 shift in the crank position and after replacing the thrust bearing and i would expect the rest of the mains the oil pressure drop when warm disappeared. i would think that if the thrust bearing was bad that it would have the pressure problem even when the engine was cold or just warming up. i can drive it 45 55 and the pressure still remains at 40+ until it reaches n.o.t. and then drops to the lower range of the gauge 20psi. that makes me think along the lines of a viscosity problem or a pump that has worn impellers. ie. the oil remains thick enough for the pump to work at lower temperatures but as soon as the oil is hot and the viscosity drops the problem surfaces. any comments on your experiences with fixing this problem would be appreciated. remove no spam to email dj .
From : the reverend natural light
is there a certain torque spec in which to tighten the plastic cap on a fuel filter housing on my 2000 ctd the cap is tight --snug plus 1/4 turn-- and when it is warm outside there is no problem but at night when it drops to the mid 20s i get some leaking around the top of the cap. this weekend i plan to replace the filter and o ring and want to get it tight enough but not too tight to damage the cap housing filter or o ring. any help would be appreciated. .