Need recommedation on 10 ply tires for my cargo van
From : dave in lake villa
Q: on wed 24 aug 2005 124745 gmt fmb fmbb@sbcglobal.net wrote if the speed sensor is bad shouldnt it effect the cruise speedo odometer trip computer or something when it gets very bad yes. it may just be generating an erratic signal right now which the abs computer is particularly sensitive to. when it gets worse your speedo will either not function at all or only above a certain speed. ditto with the odometer. if the speedo is working cruise control isnt affected. the sensors about a $30 part either from dealer or aftermarket and takes all of 5 minutes to change. $300.... i really hate people like that. go ahead mike... defend that one. cant defend that one but if the dealer took the diff back apart looking for a problem along with the brakes etc. that could have run the cost up to that range. wish i could be of more help but i unlike some others in the group cant intelligently comment or pass judgement on what i dont have all the info on mike come on
Replies:
From : Annonymous
yes it does. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving unfortunately no not on a 99. you need to get an obd-ii scan tool to retrieve the codes. on that same note will a obd-ii scan tool tell you which sensor tripped the check engine light iow i have a 99 dak also and never had to change a sensor but i know im running on borrowed time at this point. if i have a sensor go bad how can i figure out the bad sensor will the code tell me im pretty sure i have 2 02 sensors. does the code get specific enough to tell me which one is causing the fault -- regards slick willy remove the bendover to reply .
From : mac davis
mac davis wrote on 23 aug 2005 223601 -0700 enough already enoughalready@lycos.com wrote fredric l. rice wrote fuel rule change for big s.u.v.s seen as unlikely scott olson/getty imagesthe hummer h2 is among s.u.v.s that may be exempt from new rules. friends shouldnt let friends drive suvs http//tinyurl.com/a4o7t .
From : dave
on wed 24 aug 2005 143005 gmt tbone t-bonenospam@nc.rr.com wrote hahahahahahaha you really are funny. while current may be measured in amps voltage is the force that causes current flow and current is simply how much is flowing. the higher the system voltage is above the battery voltage state of charge the more current is going to flow into it so as i said both the 14.2 and the batteries state of charge has everything to do with it. once again you demonstrate your complete ignorance of even simple dc circuits. the only thing other than voltage that controls the current flow into a battery is resistance. resistance is affected by state of charge but on a longterm basis more by battery condition. thats why a check across the terminals is needed it eliminates the system and checks only the battery. thats also why you do a load test first because that draws a load on only the battery. hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha oh please stop you are killing me. can you really be this dumb first of all if you are talking about current you cannot measure that across the terminals of the battery lol. second unless you disconnect at least one of the terminals of the battery from the system to isolate it the system is still connected and will still influence your readings. you are wrong. if the ignition switch is turned off and the doors closed etc the only load on the battery from the system would be ecu keepalive current of several miliamps - which is totally off the scale of relevancy when doing a load test. also the only dependable test of battery condition is a battery transconductance test - the most common unit in use being the midtronics analyzer. it will accurately test a battery with as little as 9 volts open circuit voltage and possibly less and tell you if it is good or bad. third only an idiot would attempt to load test the battery with the engine running and again unless you disconnect the battery the system will still be there. an avr test is simply a load test with the engine running and is used to check the performance of the charging system on a daily basis by thousands of mechanics around the world. however the battery load test is generally the first test performed on a starting/charging system if a transconductance tester is not available. if the load test or transconductance test if available passes and the battery is up to proper charge in case of passing a transconductance test the starter draw test is usually next. if starter current is within range and the battery cranking voltage does not drop below spec usually 9.6 volts on older vehicles the battery voltage recovery is checked if transconductance test was not done to see how quickly the unloaded battery returns to 12 volts.usually after leaving headlamps on high beam for a few minutes then the engine is started and the charging system tests performed. if the battery has failed its tests the results of the charging system tests will be inconclusive. then the engine is started and the btw if the engine is not running the battery is the only source of power and will be the only thing load tested regardless of where you connect the ground wire lol. except if you have a poor ground connection in which case all reslts will be skewed. so - the right way to do the load test is with connections to the battery with a load drop test across the connection from the post to the cable if the battery is not disconnected. the state of charge determins how much current will flow into the battery at a given voltage and if the battery is already weakened by an unintended prolonged current draw from something like an illuminated glove compartment light the added pull from the starter will make it worse wrong again. state of charge and age of the battery make a huge difference. really got proof on the battery age thing it is more the condition of the battery than its age and btw an old and / or abused battery builds resistance due to sulfation and takes less current and a lesser chance of boiling at a given voltage. how many times can you be wrong before you just give up as you seem to be demonstrating an infinite number of times lol. and a battery that has lost plate material due to age and or abuse develops a low internal resistance and draws more power from the charging system resulting in a lower charging voltage at a given charging current. so does a battery with warped plates and/or damaged separators. also a sulphated battery will offgas during charging more than a good battery at the same charging current. .
From : Annonymous
atf +3 also called 7176 buy it at the dealer no dex will not destroy it just cause severe chatter at tcc application hi my dodge caravan le 3.3v6 has 150000 miles on it. im going to change the transmission fluid. my mechanic told me there is a mobil 1 automatic trans fluid and recommended i use that. checking on the web how to change oil i found this for example some chrysler transmissions need only specific type of fluid and regular fluid like dexron ii can even destroy the transmission. mobile 1 isnt dextron 2 but is there anything wrong with using the mobil 1 product its a 3 speed with overdrive. and can dextron 2 really destroy a dodge transmission thanks mike ps how do i change the fluid in the torque converter if you just drop the pan replace the filter and gasket button it up and pour in new oil wont that be contaminated by the oil in the converter is this a problem .
From : dave in lake villa
i hope i havent caused to much grief in this group and thank you tbone and all the others for your recommendations and suggestions. i now know more about batteries and charge systems than i ever wanted to know. hopefully youve gotten the correct info. tbone tends to muddy the water even when hes got it right. now i just need to know how to stop all the battery acid corrosion. i have washed everything with baking soda and water but it still seems to be corroding. first step is neutralize acid in the area which youve done. next there is a product that appears under names such as extend a pinkish fluid that turns black upon application. this will neutralize the rust as it chemically binds so the label says to the iron oxide. the metal will then be black. spray the box with rubberized undercoating. this should help keep it free from rust for some time and is easily reapplied. -- max give a man a match and he is warm for a short while. light him on fire and he is warm for the rest of his life. .