Need Frame Section
From : Annonymous
Q: on aug 10 837 am briefc...@nomail.com wrote dont repair this. the problem is how i can weld but making something fit in there is beyond me. the frame is fine from the rear of that coil spring to the back and on the drivers side. i just need this 3 foot section. unfortunately i think you are somewhat screwed. correct me if im wrong but im pretty sure the frame is part of the body on these vans.. if its that far gone youre going to have some serious work to do to fix it... the only thing i can think of is to cut out the bad section and replace it with a non-rusty front quarter from another van that is the same. thats going to involve more time and money than the van is worth im afraid. dont get me wrong i am all for attempting to save a vehicle but a van thats so far rusted well even *i* have to question it.. .
Replies:
From : ed medlin
on fri 10 aug 2007 164402 gmt bigironram not@home.com wrote on thu 09 aug 2007 183115 gmt bigironram not@home.com wrote snip if you dont like our rates generate your own power. last year my bill was pushing $500.00 for a 1540 sq. ft. house my brother in law got hit with $700.00 in his larger house. were getting a break this year due to record rainfall and cooler temperatures. one of the many reasons that we moved out of the states especially out of ca... i work with a lady whos going to follow you to mexico when she retires. shes got me thinking about it also. i know several people who would be retired if not for health insurance costs. we went from the lowest cost kaiser coverage for $750 a month to one of the best mexican health plans available for a little over $300 a month.. $500 deductible and includes air med lift cancer etc.. we were specifically told that getting drunk and falling off an atv isnt covered so i guess its a common injury.. lol building costs are rising but still under $100 a sf... we paid about $65... a cold beer in a cantina is under $2... our average power bill so far including my shop is about $150 a month.. unless we
From : roy
on fri 10 aug 2007 153906 -0400 tom lawrence tnooms4p8a8m@meimnbgaarlqlmoawield.com wrote if this dakota has oversized tires brake capacity is in fact reduced so where did you read that he has oversized tires federal braking standards as cars. my 89 4x4 burg has always had what i consider to be marginal brakes since it was new. yet another example from over 15 years ago. you realy act like a child somethimes looking to start something if you use brake gentely it is not a problem right - like the op stated he did and.... but if you have to set it down hard from speed the brakes complain. and if your aunt had balls.... why dont you stop inventing all kinds of scenarios and stick to the facts this is the second time youve recommended that someone tradein their vehicle. the first was someone with a bad rear wheel speed sensor and now its a guy with a 1/2-ton truck trying to haul 400lbs. of cargo. toadya trcks are more car than truck so do not even start to argue with me that it is built tough and 400 lbs is a piece of cake for it and you wonder why youre held in such contempt around here i am held in contempt by insecure persons like yourself that are offended when somebody goes against their current. some like you never seem to grow up. ----------------- thesnoman.com .
From : tbone
on thu 09 aug 2007 184034 gmt craig c. mcraigchr@gmail.com wrote from what little i heard it wasnt really my thing and several folks had more interesting subjects his is a grid system and he expected to run his house and shop without drawing from the grid... there is a big solar community here in baja and most folks wish theyd gone for bigger panels and better batteries when they were having the homes built... some folks brought in better units from the states but the solar area becomes a ghost town in the summer because few people want to run a generator for ac.. mac davis wrote that might cover a starter system that youd hate larry.. $15k will buy some nice equipment and get you well on the road to eliminating your electric bill depending on usage. my brother in ca is having a $60k system put in but after rebates and tax credits he figures that the net will be about $35k... unless your brother lives in a mansion with huge electric needs he is getting ripped off. his system doesnt use batteries and they add to the cost and take up space in tx a $60k system has batteries hybrid wind/solar setup with a gas/natural gas generator backup and it is off the grid on a normal sized home. a grid-tied system is *easy* to implement. little or no maintenance and theyre fairly cheap too $10k to get started and add panels as you can afford it if you are willing to do some of the work on your own. larry strikes me a doyr hed get off to a great start with $10-12k and could add panels little by little after that provided he purchases a nice sized inverter $3k - $5k. craig c. mac please remove splinters before emailing .
From : bigironram
i have searched the internet and cant figure this out. last week i bought a 2002 dakota sport 4x4 off autotrader.com. it was listed as an r/t but has the 3.9 v6 with manual 5 peed. i figured the r/t was a mistake as its a v6. bought the truck anyway as its a beautiful truck with low miles for eight grand. the insurance company as well as car fax also lists this as an r/t when i run the vin codebut i thought the r/t was designated for the v8 trucks what is this thoughts apprecaited. truck has no visible r/t badges. first off i would check the vin number on the registration or title to that of the vehicle and make sure that they match. something tells me that what you have is not what the title belongs to. here is a link that describes the rt http//www.dodgedakotart.com/v1/ you might even find a message board on that site that will allow you to question people that own and know a lot about these specific vehicles. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : nza
tbone wrote as mike and many others have said bigger is not always better. i currently have a seer 10 unit but not sure of size. i had my old one replaced last year. if i had gone to a seer 15 unit every a/c person i talked to said that unit would be larger. the coolant lines would be much larger larger compressor and the exchanger i have a heat pump much larger. estimated bills would be cut 25-50% but unit would cost about $5000 to install vs. the $2200 it cost to stay with a seer 10. most of that difference was because the higher seer a/c unit would require replacement of my exchanger with a much larger unit. so in my case a higher seer larger unit would be better...but much more costly. i was not referring to the seer rating where bigger is almost always better and more expensive to start out with i was referring to the tonnage in which bigger is not always better and in some cases much worse and more expensive to operate. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .