NV3500 Tranny help needed - Please !!
From : julio
Q: from trey and what is the point of no muffler i guess thats how they did it. at first i thought i was getting a muffler but didnt. anyway after driving it a few days i may have a muffler installed. it is just a little to loud for me. hank .
Replies:
From : tbone
name a few others then. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving the only part that is always working for lack of a better word whenever the engine is turning and regardless of the transmission is the to bearing. really .
From : roy
tsb 18-019-01 is the one i was thinking about. ive never talked to ah ok - youre talking about a 2nd gen truck and yes they do have a 3-cyl feature. im talking about the 3rd gens as thats what nate has. afaik there isnt a 3-cyl mode available for these engines no technical reason why not - probably something goofy to do with emissions regs. .
From : nosey
range of rotation. they should not feel tight. they work smooth and free. 2 you think oil difference may cause a whineing gear or bearing noise only if the new oil is lighter in viscosity. it wont cause any new noises it just doesnt mask the existing noise as well as heavier oil. if its not a mechanical problem i guess i can live with the noise sounds like a geared timing set.. back to the lights... thanks... . 222 294484 5jhsd.1835$pw1.734306@twister.southeast.rr.com -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving thanks for the replies. ill start to remedy during the week.. i have to do x-mas lites today and behave like a dad. did that 2 weeks ago. ok - so far we are not into the insides yet with suggestions to try.. to bearing noise - i greased the shafts and splines very lightly w/ synthetic valvoline grease before install. the retainers on the bearing felt strong i greased the saddle where it lays on the yoke also. that still does not mean that the bearing is quiet. i am not saying for sure that it is the cause of the noise but if your noise is in the drive train past the engine that is your best bet. process of elimination i guess 1 ill try turning 180d. on the drive shaft placement to rear end - and after that maybe 180 on the balancer also if needed - i did buy new joints and also greased them after install. you may want to have your wheels checked for balance as well. 2 you think oil difference may cause a whineing gear or bearing noise if the noise exists with the clutch disengaged nothing in the transmission should be turning so it should have nothing to with the fluid that you are using. besides a waterpump on this 6 mos. ago this is the only fixin this riggin has ever needed. but it still might not be the trans in any way. any engine vibration can be felt through the shift lever if you are really looking for it. on sat 04 dec 2004 182504 gmt nosey kfrei43@removethis.hotmail.com wrote julio wrote hi folks - i need a little help... i have a 98 dakota 5.2 - 2 wheel drive - 190k on the motor and tranny. i was in definate need of clutch job my input bearing lost the needle bearings and the t/o bearing was worn pretty good. the discs had barely any left left in them but werent damaging. i took it down 2 wks. ago and replaced the input bearing with a new dealer part a clutch kit with t/o bearing centerforce 2 and both u joints napa. with the tranny down i tried to feel for any play in the shafts on the tranny. spun it around and went thru the gears by hand i didnt feel anything was loose or had any bad sounds other than i can hear the gears turning with the fluid drained. i put it all back together added royal purple synchromesh and ran it now for a week back and forth to work. during this time i can feel something else is not right. i can hear a whine which rises with rpm or motor mostly if not all the time. not loud but enough. also at higher road speeds in excess of 70 or 80 mph. i can feel a slight vibration. smooth vibration -- thats not right to me.. i put my ear on the tranny shifter knob while idleing and i can hear what sounds like is a gear turning all the time in any gear in nuetral or with clutch in or out. it doesnt stop spinning. i dont know if this is normal its only a description for diagnosis. it seems to shift well not binding or hard to shift it releases ok. any ideas - and can i fix it @ home i can rebuild a motor with no problems but i never dove into a tranny. thanks the vibration may be the driveshaft. they will vibrate sometimes if you dont install it on the rear in the same position that it was before it was removed. unbolt the drive shaft from the rear and flip it 180. check the u-joints while you are back there too. .
From : tbone
also anyone know what those codes are 12 just means the batterys been disconnected at some point - you can ignore this. 42 is an open or shorted condition in the asd relay control circuit. the asd relay supplies power for most vital engine functions sensors etc. if this were really the case your engine wouldnt run. i think this is a stored code from some time ago maybe you tried to start it with a relay removed in any case it has nothing to do with a low-power condition. .
From : julio
on sat 4 dec 2004 224519 -0600 jamiegoforth@webtv.net james goforth wrote just bought a 90 dakota 3.9l a couple of days ago and notice it seems like you really have to put your foot down to get it to go. you kind of have to drive it like youre mad at it. are they all pretty much like that otherwise i like the truck--its clean and i got it for a very good price--but i wonder if anyone else with a similar truck has noticed this or if it can be corrected. yep.. like the old commercial said i could have had a v-8... our 01 dakota club cab with 4.7l v-8 and auto tranny is a very nice truck with good performance and gets about 1 mpg less than same truck with a v-6.. .
From : tbone
gentlemen thank you for your responses heres an update on my efforts. i had the current battery tested and it was ok however given its age i replaced it anyway since winter is coming and it is the original battery. unfortunately the problem still exists. since tbone mentioned it may be a fuel pump i did confirm that when i turn the key on the fuel pump does at least turn on and make noise; however im not sure how i can actually test it to make sure it is pumping fuel. once the truck gets started and is warmed up fuel delivery does not appear to be a problem since it idles smoothly and acceleration is swift and constant. is it possible that the fuel pump would be temperature sensitve and only show signs of failure when cold i have learned something else about the heater fan too. if i turn the fan on high before i start the engine then it doesnt kill the engine like it does if i turn the fan on high after i start the engine. also something to note is that during the first two to four times that i get it started i usually have to get it started about 5 times before it will stay running if i open the throttle even slightly it will immediately stall the engine. after about the 5th start i can slowly open the throttle and it will stay running. i have to be careful about easing on and off the throttle though during the warmup period usually about 3 to 5 minutes of running at 2000 rpm because if i let off too quickly the rpms will drop too quickly and it will stall out. now that weve elminated the battery does anyone have any other suggestions thank you for your help. jason .
From : roy
thats one i never heard about. was it a tsb or just something you ask for from the dealer....... i would be interested in having that done. it was a tsb... tsb 18-037-04. this is from a post on the tdr you have to have the manual control high idle feature activated at the dealer. i had it done after the tsb was completed. i believe from only doing it a couple of times it works like this 1. start engine 2. turn on cruise control left button 3. hit set left button- this will activate the high idle 1000 rpm 4. use the accel/coast right button to control rpms +/- 100 rpm increments i thought that was just for extended idle periods and not necessarily for bringing the engine up to operating temperatures same principle - make more heat. running on three cylinders makes the engine have to work harder to maintain idle which means its using more fuel and making more heat which prevents the cylinder washdown effect allowing you to idle for long periods but it will also heat the engine up faster. i know there is a tsb out where you can have that done on the dodge. are you sure i thought it wasnt available in the dodge application .
From : tbone
when in 4x4 if you turn the sterring the out side tire on the front barks like its being made to slide then break free again afterwards its a pain to get it back in 2 wheel drive any ideas here is an idea. read the owners manual. what youre describing is normal. its also very hard on the driveline. al .
From : nosey
wow i always liked the look of the durango. as for the v6 my dakota is a pig wish i got the v8 in it. or better yet bought the ram. @big4.bellsouth.net nlhomer@bellsouth.net says... hello! maybe someone in this group can answer this question..the wife and i were looking at a durango the other day and she told me that durangos only came with v-8s.this was told to her by another person who had bought one.any truth to that statementany reply is welcome b.h. believe me you wouldnt want one. unless your idea of power was your old vw microbus.. seriously its a total dog. a dakota with that engine is a dog and it weighs about a half ton less than a durango. the 4.7 is tolerable and nothing more. not to mention the durango is seriously infected with the ugly virus.. bdk .
From : roy
julio wrote hi folks - i need a little help... i have a 98 dakota 5.2 - 2 wheel drive - 190k on the motor and tranny. i was in definate need of clutch job my input bearing lost the needle bearings and the t/o bearing was worn pretty good. the discs had barely any left left in them but werent damaging. i took it down 2 wks. ago and replaced the input bearing with a new dealer part a clutch kit with t/o bearing centerforce 2 and both u joints napa. with the tranny down i tried to feel for any play in the shafts on the tranny. spun it around and went thru the gears by hand i didnt feel anything was loose or had any bad sounds other than i can hear the gears turning with the fluid drained. i put it all back together added royal purple synchromesh and ran it now for a week back and forth to work. during this time i can feel something else is not right. i can hear a whine which rises with rpm or motor mostly if not all the time. not loud but enough. also at higher road speeds in excess of 70 or 80 mph. i can feel a slight vibration. smooth vibration -- thats not right to me.. i put my ear on the tranny shifter knob while idleing and i can hear what sounds like is a gear turning all the time in any gear in nuetral or with clutch in or out. it doesnt stop spinning. i dont know if this is normal its only a description for diagnosis. it seems to shift well not binding or hard to shift it releases ok. any ideas - and can i fix it @ home i can rebuild a motor with no problems but i never dove into a tranny. thanks the vibration may be the driveshaft. they will vibrate sometimes if you dont install it on the rear in the same position that it was before it was removed. unbolt the drive shaft from the rear and flip it 180. check the u-joints while you are back there too. .
From : julio
it does if the thermostat is open. in theory the flow is engine then radiator then back to the heater but if the heater isnt properly located close to the engine as vertical or near vertical as possible then it wont do much good. in my experience warm the engine by driving then plug the heater in before it cools off. -- budd whats the difference between a bad golfer and a bad skydiver one goes whack darn and the other goes darn whack. i have an old dodge ram pickup and a few years ago i put a heater in the lower radiator hose. i plugged it in tonight for the first time this year and noticed that it got very hot almost too hot to touch. so i unplugged it. these things are just supposed to get warm right im thinking it might be broken. pat actually they can get quite hot. remember they need to generate enough heat to warm up the block which is in itself a giant heat sink not to mention the radiator also dissipating some of that heat especially when it gets c
From : julio
yup i see what you mean i went to the website and see they have updated its looks. i like the old version better. briansantoro@yahoo.com says... wow i always liked the look of the durango. as for the v6 my dakota is a pig wish i got the v8 in it. or better yet bought the ram. @big4.bellsouth.net nlhomer@bellsouth.net says... hello! maybe someone in this group can answer this question..the wife and i were looking at a durango the other day and she told me that durangos only came with v-8s.this was told to her by another person who had bought one.any truth to that statementany reply is welcome b.h. believe me you wouldnt want one. unless your idea of power was your old vw microbus.. seriously its a total dog. a dakota with that engine is a dog and it weighs about a half ton less than a durango. the 4.7 is tolerable and nothing more. not to mention the durango is seriously infected with the ugly virus.. bdk i almost bought a 2003 durango but it had pretty much the same seats as the jeep grand cherokee and they killed my back. i really liked the looks of the original but the new one bleecchhh!! bdk hemi ram owner.. .
From : roy
name a few others then. when is the to bearing utilized .