My 2003 truck is rusting
From : dale yonz
Q: yonzie the mopar molded splash guards come with screws that have a sealer on the threads to prevent this very thing from happening. i would mention this to the dealer and he should mention this to their rep as well. if you would have installed aftermarket splash guards i would say you are on your own but since you installed mopar accessories they have an obligation to help you out. mike my 2003 has rust. i had chrome wheel well covers put on by the dodge dealership where i bought the truck new. also had moulded dodge mud flaps put on.put these on to protect the truck from stone chips. just a couple weeks ago i took of the flaps off to clean them. some sand got trapped inside the flaps and washed them. then i decided to take the chrome wheel well covers of to see if anything needed cleaning. found the paint was bubbling and peeling in two spots. about the size of a silver dollar. where the holes were drilled to fasten the mouldings the paint around them was rusting. my local dodge dealer who didnt sell me the truck took pictures of this and sent them out to the area rep. they tell me on thursday that dodge will not fix the rust. its not the fault of the truck. the installation of accessories is not covered. so who ever drilled the holes to install the guards will have to cover the problem. had two estimates to have the four fenders pained about $1300. now the shop foreman where i bought my truck at dodge city in saskatoon is going to talk to the same area rep. i know dodge will tell him its not the trucks fault that the holes should never been drilled. question is dodge sells these mouldings through parts so how are you suppose to install them screws come with them. anyhow i know im going to be stuck with the painting. got to get it fixed can not have it get worse. im going to get the truck painted even if i have to pay for it. so anybody out there dont put those moulding on. salt and sand gets between them and the paint. friday went out and drove a 2005 ford f250 crewcab. very nice riding truck. might have to go monday and price it out. dodge has really disappointed me after 5 dodge trucks maybe time to switch. dale .
Replies:
From : dale yonz
on wed 10 aug 2005 230430 gmt pj pyoung47@yahoo.com wrote im doubting that any dc dealership would be selling water damaged cars. one never knows though but i would guess that its a semi-normal occurance. psssst buddy! want to buy a bridge beekeep .
From : tbone
i am planning to add power locks and windows to my 2005 dakota and cant seem to find anywhere to buy a new door panel. i want to get a new door panel with the pre-cut holes for window and lock switches rather than cut the existing one and cap the window crank. i was wondering if i would have to get this from a dealer or if anyone knew of somewhere to get a match from an outside vendor. thanks for your help. kevin .
From : tom lawrence
im right wrote a piece of paper my normal a/c fresh air works fine. but when i put it in max a/c the air flow is greatly reduced. it sounds as if the air is blowing against a closed door. all other positions of heater/ac works correctly. this is a 2000 ram 3500 maxivan. any ideas on what to look for. bill ------------------------------------------------------------ thats a short answer but a good one. had it happen myself on a 2001 maxi. a piece of paper was pulled up against the recirc intake. mark .
From : mike simmons
wrapped@netscape.net wrote dale yonz wrote ok steve what would you put on your truck to protect it from stone chips like you got to have mud flaps so you have to drill a couple of holes to install them right. how about protecting the wheel well lips. do you leave the metal bare and use touch up the paint once in awhile for any chips im asking these questions because im going to get it painted and not putting anything back on. http//www.topoftheline.com/paintprotectiontape.html ive never seen this stuff just happened to have the site bookmarked. that looks like a good way to protect the paint. yes and no. not all that noticeable on the rocker but looks like crap any place imo. just put on some good wax and get a bottle of touch up paint. hell it is a truck. next those clear plastic seat covers will be back.g roy .
From : roy
i have a 2001 ram 1500 with a 5.2l that was giving me some starting problems i felt it was fuel so i did some basic checks such as check for fuel rail pressure there wasnt any checked fuel pump relay it was good so i call an have the truck towed to the dealer for diagnosis. they said it was my fuel pump module so i asked them to replace it. the next day when i picked it up and in the process of driving home approx 3 miles it stalls and dies. i call the dealer and he sends a tow truck and we go back to the dealers for more diagnosis. two days later they tell me its my pcm. wow 80000 miles on my truck and the fuel pump and pcm happened to go out at the same time. coincidence or not i feel not... barstow ed .
From : dale yonz
ok you know that this is not true how my simple minded little friend i have a dealer warranty and policy guidebook in my office which is as thick as a nyc phone book. in it it covers virtually every scenario a d/c dealer might encounter. i have over time read this book from cover to cover. in this tome it specifically states that d/c is not liable for any aftermarket accessories sold by the dealership. further the dealer agreement that every dealer must sign specifically exempts d/c from any liability due to an error by the dealership. legal minds have worked these things out over many years! how is it then that your knowledge is superior to those who actually do this for a living just because you wish something is so doesnt make it so. now why dont you go buy that ferd youve been talking about and go annoy the snot of of that ng with your superior knowledge of the industry.... hmmmmmm mike mike are you referring to me to go and buy that ford and go and annoy some other group dale no! t-bone... he keeps saying hes gonna buy a ferd.... im just encouranging him to do so..... i would hate to see you buy a ferd ^ mike .
From : tbone
fredbarga246 wrote i agree a bigger truck will be better but the turning radius is the problem. with the short drives narrow streets and split rail fences turning and backing becomes a real problem. i have a 2001 ford f250 and a 2005 2500 ram both seem to be too long when you hang a plow on the front. fred i have plowed snow for over 20 years now and with as much as 3 trucks on time. lightweight trucks are toys at best pushing snow because when it gets ugly you need weight and grunt to get the job done. if you want to clear your driveway that is one thing but to use it commercailly is another matter. i can clear over a foot of snow in one 8 foot pass wet or dry with relative ease. sounds like a plan for breakage. also when you plow you want to plow at about 6 to 10 mph when possible because with a good plow design it will roll it and throw it out further off of the side of the blade and make a small edge stack. a far as length i alway use 3/4 and 1 ton trucks with standard cabs and srws and i have no turning issues and this is where chevies after 87 shine for two reasons. they turn tight and the cv joints in front axle shafts with ifs do not torque bind/whip back through steering wheel like a straight axle will when you crowd it in a tight turn plowing. i must admitt i was apprehensive when i got my first ifs gm truck to plow with but now i would never go back to a striaght front axled plow truck. im not going to comment on this other than to say that around here chevies are the least popular plow truck. roy -- posted using the http//www.autoforumz.com interface at authors request articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards topic url http//www.autoforumz.com/dodge-snow-plowing-ftopict133318.html visit topic url to contact author reg. reqd. report abuse http//www.autoforumz.com/eform.phpp=648779 .
From : dale yonz
if you look on the window sticker it will tell you the dealer it was shipped to. im doubting that any dc dealership would be selling water damaged cars. one never knows though but i would guess that its a semi-normal occurance. is anyone else experiencing problems with rusting seat brackets under the seats. i noticed the brackets under my front seats and the dealer replaced them under warranty. however my back seat brackets are also rusting . i guess im wondering if this sold as new truck might have been partially submerged. i cant imagine rust forming on metals that are in a dry cab and protected from the elements by not only the cab itself but also the seats. gary the metal parts used in the seat frames etc. are bare and not painted or treated against corrosion. rust appearing on the surface of these parts is not uncommon and will happen due to humidity etc. mike .
From : steve lusardi
thanks. autozone sells one for $56 & tax. if this damn texas heat ever lets up i may attempt this myself. lawrence tnloaswpraemnmcien5g@earthlink.net writes any tips for r&r or is this a shop job real simple - its on the back of the throttle body. two torx screws and an electrical connector. while youre at it just remove the whole throttle body four bolts from the top once you take the air cleaner off strip off the iac the map sensor and the tps sensor all remove the same - just a couple of screws then give it a good thorough cleaning with some tb cleaner. when you put it back together leave the iac uninstalled. plug the electrical in and while holding it have someone turn on the ignition but dont start the truck - it will rev to redline! and watch the movement of the iac pintle. it should cycle all the way out then all the way in then settle to a position somewhere in the middle. this should all be smooth movements. if its not or if in doubt you can try cleaning it as well but a replacement isnt that much money either. before embarking on this pick up a new throttle body gasket - 50% chance youll trash the old one while removing the tb. .
From : john
on thu 11 aug 2005 191837 gmt rq qurandc@shaw.ca wrote i am thinking of buying a dakota but i hear that they are real gas hogs. is this consistant with the experience of the members of this groups thanks rq yes compared to a car... no compared to a full sized truck... we have a 99 ram qq 2wd with the 360... tows well if you like 8 mpg and is comfortable on trips if you can handle 15 mpg... i wouldnt do any serious towing with our 01 club cab dakota with 4.7l auto & 2wd but compared to the ram its a blast to drive... the 4.7 is a great engine with a lots of power for a mid-size truck...much crisper acceleration i think what the ram does is accelerate handles like a car on winding roads stops very well etc... averages about 12 mpg in town and 18 - 20 on trips on crappy calif. gas... my brother gets 30 to 50 mpg in his lexas hybrid suv so if you want to spend $60000 you can save some money on gas.. *g* mac please remove splinters before emailing .
From : dale yonz
the spare for my durango is of course underneath the vehicle and i was looking at installing a tow hotch would would obviously block access to it. so would a swing arm type of holder be a good idea cant put it on the hatch as the wiper motor is there and it would increase weight to the point of not being able to get the hatch to stay open. cant install on the right side as thats the gas take fill side. dont want it inside cause the dogs are sitting there.. and the equipment also. so if the swing arm is a good way is the a online shop selling this or do i need a custom shop and what should i look for if i go with the latter .
From : dale yonz
anyone plow with a dakota am thinking of buying one to plow a small condo complex with short narrow drives and streets. any thoughts fred .
From : dale yonz
j76dnz2dnz2w207dnz2dnvgtzt-dnz2drvn-y52dnz0@texas.net bob m ram1220@vzavenue.net wrote roy wrote just put on some good wax and get a bottle of touch up paint. hell it is a truck. next those clear plastic seat covers will be back.g roy will they be heated bob here we go again .
From : dale yonz
even if i do buy a ford a much better looking truck i will not leave. you would all miss me far to much - nobody is leaving this group i locked the damn door and no one is going till all the beer is gone .
From : dale yonz
rcudnz2dnz1ismq0nz2dnftrzt-dnz2drvn-zz2dnz0@comcast.com roy roy@home.net wrote wrapped@netscape.net wrote dale yonz wrote ok steve what would you put on your truck to protect it from stone chips like you got to have mud flaps so you have to drill a couple of holes to install them right. how about protecting the wheel well lips. do you leave the metal bare and use touch up the paint once in awhile for any chips im asking these questions because im going to get it painted and not putting anything back on. http//www.topoftheline.com/paintprotectiontape.html ive never seen this stuff just happened to have the site bookmarked. that looks like a good way to protect the paint. yes and no. not all that noticeable on the rocker but looks like crap any place imo. just put on some good wax and get a bottle of touch up paint. hell it is a truck. next those clear plastic seat covers will be back.g roy right i remember those clear seat covers. dad had a 63 galaxie 500. didnt need seat belts in hot weather your ass was stuck on and you were not going to go anywhere. winter time doctors were happy. everyone was getting hemorrhoidsfreeze your ass on that plastic .
From : bob m
on thu 11 aug 2005 141036 gmt bar stow bak2bak@verizon.net wrote i have a 2001 ram 1500 with a 5.2l that was giving me some starting problems i felt it was fuel so i did some basic checks such as check for fuel rail pressure there wasnt any checked fuel pump relay it was good so i call an have the truck towed to the dealer for diagnosis. they said it was my fuel pump module so i asked them to replace it. the next day when i picked it up and in the process of driving home approx 3 miles it stalls and dies. i call the dealer and he sends a tow truck and we go back to the dealers for more diagnosis. two days later they tell me its my pcm. wow 80000 miles on my truck and the fuel pump and pcm happened to go out at the same time. coincidence or not i feel not... barstow ed a little vasoline or ky jelly may be in order cause youre getting screwed. beekeep .
From : roy
thanks for the help and heres an update with clarification. it is a 2wd model. the shocks were less than 3 months old. i got the tires in early july at discount tire. theyve been really good about trying to balance them but the vibration remained even after 2 road force balancings. i took it to a drive train specialist who test drive it and decided a wheel was out of balance. he told me to bring it in the next day and hed check it out. i drove back to discount tire to talk with the manager one more time. i decided i wanted custom wheels and i thought it might help. i bought them and discount tire mounted them and performed the road force balancing again. the shake remained. i have had the ball joints replaced and the front end aligned too. i took it back to the drive train specialist who checked the axles and drive shaft. he said the u-joints were too tight and he adjusted them. he also balanced the drive shaft. then he replaced the transmission mounts. the vibration is still there. he suggested it might be the torque converter or fan clutch. he suggested i take it to a diesel engine specialist here in vegas which ive been trying to do for a week and a half. hes really busy but may get to it sunday. the vibration is barely noticeable until i get up to about 20 mph and gets progressively worse up to 70 mph. its tolerable at 60 mph. the engine feels ok. there may be a little shimmy at about 2000 rpm. the good thing about all this is the preventive maintenance thats been performed. those u-joints were original equipment at 191k. any ideas thanks in advance svengali82 will it fit my 97 ctd 4x4 if so how much do you want for it thanks. greg the steering looseness could be the steering box. i had to replace the ball joints on my 1996 2500 at 141000 miles. went down to have a front end alignment and the service guy showed me that pitman arm on the steering box had a lot of slop in it. couldnt align it until i replaced the steering gear box. ordered a new psc gearbox they have an outstanding reputation. before the new gear arrived i sold the truck......couldnt turn down the new employee pricing. so now have a new psc steering box couldnt return it for sale. ron svengali82 wrote thanks craig. i arrived at the same suggestion after surfing a few websites. its probably the least expensive. u-joints perhaps craig c. yes and if it is a 4x4 check all the the joints on the front axle too because they always turn and do not forget the inner spindle bearings as well as they can cause a vibration as well when they are dry the front axle shafts on a 4x4 dodge always turn laso on the steering looseness check front axle pivot studs because on a 4x4 the weight of the deisel is hard on them and dodge upgraded the axle because of this in 03. -- posted using the http//www.autoforumz.com interface at authors request articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards topic url http//www.autoforumz.com/dodge-ram-2500-vibration-ftopict132206.html visit topic url to contact author reg. reqd. report abuse http//www.autoforumz.com/eform.phpp=643287 .
From : dale yonz
wrapped@netscape.net wrote dale yonz wrote ok steve what would you put on your truck to protect it from stone chips like you got to have mud flaps so you have to drill a couple of holes to install them right. how about protecting the wheel well lips. do you leave the metal bare and use touch up the paint once in awhile for any chips im asking these questions because im going to get it painted and not putting anything back on. http//www.topoftheline.com/paintprotectiontape.html ive never seen this stuff just happened to have the site bookmarked. that looks like a good way to protect the paint. .
From : dale yonz
wrapped@netscape.net wrote dale yonz wrote wrapped@netscape.net wrote tehboner wrote it was not just someone it was a dodge dealership and they used dodge performance parts. if they dont back up their work or parts only an idiot would stick with them. nothing more to say after reading that they were not dodge parts yes but they still sell them and install them. then they represent the manufacturer of the trim which should have come with stainless screws sealant and instructions. i can buy a cheap watch a baseball cap sunglasses and die-cast toys at my local dodge parts store too. they sell them. the screws werent stainless steel they had philips heads and were all rusted as far as cheap dodge caps and toys they sure as hell aint cheap maybe made cheap but not cheap in price .
From : tbone
i was told by the dealer when my wife bought her liberty that rust through means rust though not surface rust. they do have a rust thru warranty and i would get it to the dealership and find out what is covered. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving hello i was washing my truck today and i noticed rust bubbles on the bottom of the drivers side door. looking closer at the door from the inside. i see were the skin and frame are crimper its loaded with rust. the passenger side door shows the same signs but not as bad. the truck is silver and you can see the rust stains really well. what is dcs rust warranty do i have any chance of them fixing this problem i have 8 year / 80000 mile coverage. but after looking real good at it. it doesnt cover body and paint......... figures tia ken .
From : tbone
they do have a rust thru warranty and i would get it to the dealership and find out what is covered. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving hello i was washing my truck today and i noticed rust bubbles on the bottom of the drivers side door. looking closer at the door from the inside. i see were the skin and frame are crimper its loaded with rust. the passenger side door shows the same signs but not as bad. the truck is silver and you can see the rust stains really well. what is dcs rust warranty do i have any chance of them fixing this problem i have 8 year / 80000 mile coverage. but after looking real good at it. it doesnt cover body and paint......... figures tia ken .
From : dale yonz
ok how about a hail storm comes through and damages a whole parking lot of new cars. now depending on how bad the storm was do they sell the cars as is or do they fix them up i imagine they get the body shops some work and sell the cars as new without telling anyone that they were damaged. pyoung47@yahoo.com wrote im doubting that any dc dealership would be selling water damaged cars. one never knows though but i would guess that its a semi-normal occurance. is anyone else experiencing problems with rusting seat brackets under the seats. i noticed the brackets under my front seats and the dealer replaced them under warranty. however my back seat brackets are also rusting . i guess im wondering if this sold as new truck might have been partially submerged. i cant imagine rust forming on metals that are in a dry cab and protected from the elements by not only the cab itself but also the seats. gary .
From : dale yonz
greg surratt glsurratt@verizon.net wrote on 10 aug 2005 090101 -0700 craig@metronet.com wrote 18000.00 canadian dollars what is that 25.00 usd if so thats a pretty good deal. buy the ford. im just trying to lighten the mood. everyone gets so worked up about the dumbest shit. did you have any idea how explosive a discussion rust on your truck would be. go eagles! craig c. never mind rust. i was worked up because im being forced to get new front and rear bumpers on my 3500 as the result of a guy kissing the backend of my truck with a ford taurus. he hit me hard enough to shove me into the vehicle in front of me even though i was stopped with my foot still on the brakes and the wheels locked. no other damage except the bumpers and the electrical connector on the trailer hitch. my wife had backed into something a couple of years ago and put a one inch scratch on the rear bumper. when i told her about the accident i told her i was getting the rear bumper replaced so she wouldnt have to feel guilty about scratching my truck anymore. ;- craig you better of had a dozen roses with you when you said that to your wife .
From : dale yonz
wpvke.3841$je.391@read2..atl.earthlink.net tom lawrence tnloaswpraemnmcien5g@earthlink.net wrote that is not how i read it. thats because you dont read... friday went out and drove a 2005 ford f250 crewcab. very nice riding truck. might have to go monday and price it out. dodge has really disappointed me after 5 dodge trucks maybe time to switch. now - tell me how that doesnt sound like hes going to trade his truck in on an 05 sd. it most certainly is different. a private shop has no connection with the manufacturer at all and is not authorized by dc to do anything to the vehicle very different than a dealership. so you think dc authorized the installation of some aftermarket fender trim and if they didnt authorize it then the dealership was acting independently werent they just like a dealer that installs a performance chip on a truck and there are dealers that do that. try getting dc to pay for engine damage with an aftermarket performance box on it if you didnt go back to the installing dealer. listen tom i talked about chipping the truck the same dealer said not to do it and there be no warranty if something goes wrong. i had no problem with that. but when i bought wheel well trims from them along with running boards floor mats bug screens truck box mat mud flaps tailgate cap door sills trim door edge guards and a locking gas cap. they never told me look dale yeah we will install these for you if you like but you know those wheel well trims could give you problems later if you dont take them off every once in awhile and clean them so salt doesnt eat the paint away or if we drill holes on your truck the paint will be damaged and will cause blah blah blah do you understand tom what im getting at they the dealer never told me these were not a dodge product and that dodge would not warranty them if anything went wrong. i would like to know why dealerships sell these things and why dodge lets them.the wheel well trims that are not mopar dale .
From : dale yonz
dc does have an obligation to its customers if it intends on keeping them. the days of complete blind brand loyalty has for the most part come to and end. while it may still seem to exist in a limited way in here in reality many will and are doing what dale is considering iow screw me once shame on you screw me twice shame on me. yes they sell dc products and represent dc for warranty purposes but the work they do for profit is their work and theirs alone. i do not agree not when it comes to them making modifications on the vehicles that they are authorized by the manufacturer to perform service and warranty work on. you may not agree but facts is facts! you are correct here mike and the facts is that if the manufacturer is unwilling to help a customer resolve a problem with one of its representatives then it no longer deserves that customers business. tbone you have said that very well. damn should hire you as my lawyer and take dodge city to small claims court. .
From : dale yonz
thats akin to saying youll never buy a john deere tractor again because the last time it was in the repair shop they scratched it up. lol that has no valid comparrison to it at all. that is an excellent comparison! yeah and i own jd equipment combine 3 tractors weed wacker jd battery chargers cordless drills flashlites swather use jd oil filters batteries my dog has a john deere leash etc. etc. and if anyone scratches my jd 4440 tractor iwill kick them in the nuts .
From : sparkle
ram1220@vzavenue.net wrote craig@metronet.com wrote 18000.00 canadian dollars what is that 25.00 usd if so thats a pretty good deal. buy the ford. im just trying to lighten the mood. everyone gets so worked up about the dumbest shit. did you have any idea how explosive a discussion rust on your truck would be. go eagles! craig c. but if it happened on my truck i would be just as pissed as dale. especially if dc wont help him. i bought a 95 firebird convertible new and the dealership where i bought it promised to replace the optically distorted windshield. well they did but with one much worse. apprarently whoever supplied gm with windshields for the firebird back then had a serious quality control problem. the dealership refused to put another one in it. i then appealed to gm who told me they always support their dealers. so to make a long story short gm was forced to buy the car back. there were other problems with the car that gm wouldnt fix. i havent looked at another gm product since then. and i wont. why because of the way i was treated by the pontiac dealer and gm. and loking at gms sales and financial info i dont believe i was the only one. companies need to be held accountable for the actions of the dealers. after all the dealers are acting on behalf of these companies. bob go cowboys!! as of monday im still waiting to hear from dodge city in saskatoon as to what the dodge rep will do. i did not threaten or cursed anyone out. just told them we got a problem and its not my fault. the wife has a 2001 envoy bought from north battleford where i live close by gm dealer. they have been very good and have had good service. i have had good service from my local dodge dealer one mechanic is a friend. anyhow couldnt make a deal from the salesman back in 2003 and went to saskatoon and got a better deal. i have had good service done there too. i still would take my truck there both dodge dealers. nothing built today is 100%. everyone has had problems of some sort with their brands. dale .
From : sparkle
18000 cdn is $14857 us 1123688096.793491.326800@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com craig@metronet.com craig@metronet.com wrote 18000.00 canadian dollars what is that 25.00 usd if so thats a pretty good deal. buy the ford. im just trying to lighten the mood. everyone gets so worked up about the dumbest shit. did you have any idea how explosive a discussion rust on your truck would be. go eagles! craig c. .
From : dale yonz
steve i have never seen factory installed flaps. all the dodge trucks sitting in lots have no mud flaps on them or rubber mud flaps with the dealers name printed on apiece of stainless steel attached to the flap. these flaps each have 4 hex head screws holding them on. quess what they had to drill holes on the truck wheel well lip to put them on. today i seen a customers ford f350 have chrome wheel well mouldings. just like the ones i had on but instead of screwing them on they had some sort of a clip holding them in place. steve i would like to know more about these mud flaps you have them dont get screwed on. whats a ctd cummins turbo diesel dale lusardi stevenospam@lusardi.de wrote dale all the late model cars use very light guage sheet steel to save weight. however all the sheet metal is coated at the factory before final paint. chips in the paint will not cause rust. simple touchup paint suffices. obviously any chips that deform the metal has the potential to damage the coating. this coating is also applied to the flooring panels as well. i think any holes drilled or punched anywhere on the vehicle is a risk and should not be done. the mudflaps on my 04 ctd are factory flaps and do not mount to the sheet metal. they have special fasteners that mount to the plastic polypropolene inner fenders. some of the responders have mentioned rhino liner and other similar products. yes they are very good but they add a lot of weight and they have the potential to create cavities that can collect water without detection because of poor bonding due to oil and grease not properly cleaned first. my comment about ford is only partially correct. i apologize. ford has no equivelent to the cummins. the power stroke isnt even in the same league. however i wasnt thinking about their gas engines. the ford v8s are much better that the dodge competition. maybe the hemi will prove itself but im not buying one yet. ok steve what would you put on your truck to protect it from stone chips like you got to have mud flaps so you have to drill a couple of holes to install them right. how about protecting the wheel well lips. do you leave the metal bare and use touch up the paint once in awhile for any chips im asking these questions because im going to get it painted and not putting anything back on. i have the mopar running boards they are ok and they are mounted to the underside. they help prevent damage to the rocker panel. fmb suggested xliner will look into that. as for assuming responsibility for my actions you are wrong on that part. dodge sold me the wheel well covers even though they werent mopar and installed them for me. like if they told me not to put them on and why i would of never had them put on. yesterday the sales manager told me that they now realize they should be taken off once in awhile and cleaned. they are finding out im not the only one having trouble. only mine the paint started to lift and surface rust is showing up. and also they are still installling them. and im not in denial ford trucks are not an inferior product. lusardi stevenospam@lusardi.de wrote dale there are times when common sense applies and this is one. yes the installer should have known better but so should you. anytime the paint and or the zinc coating is violated you risk this problem. when i received my 2004 the first thing i did was put the truck up on jack stands and looked for all those things the factory didnt paint and properly protect. the factory had done a pretty good job in comparison to both ford and gm and it still took me 3 days to dissassemble paint and reinstall. ultimately the vehicle is yours. you bought it and you also bought all the problems or advantages that come with it. step up to the mirror and address the guy you see and tell him to assume responsibility for his actions. furthermore if you use this as justification to switch to ford and a clearly inferior product you are in denial. steve my 2003 has rust. i had chrome wheel well covers put on by the dodge dealership where i bought the truck new. also had moulded dodge mud flaps put on.put these on to protect the truck from stone chips. just a couple weeks ago i took of the flaps off to clean them. some sand got trapped inside the flaps and washed them. then i decided to take the chrome wheel well covers of to see if anything needed cleaning. found the paint was bubbling and peeling in two spots. about the size of a silver dollar. where the holes were drilled to fasten the mouldings the paint around them was rusting. my local dodge dealer who didnt sell me the truck took pictures of this and sent them out to the area rep. they tell me on thursday that dodge will not fix the rust. its not the fault of the truck. the installation of accessories is not covered. so who ever drilled the holes to install the guards will have to co
From : max dodge
sure doesnt look like it! maybe the replacements will be......... i hope. hey...arent they using galvanized door skins on the rams now just curious...i know they do on all their cars. fred hello i was washing my truck today and i noticed rust bubbles on the bottom of the drivers side door. looking closer at the door from the inside. i see were the skin and frame are crimper its loaded with rust. the passenger side door shows the same signs but not as bad. the truck is silver and you can see the rust stains really well. what is dcs rust warranty do i have any chance of them fixing this problem i have 8 year / 80000 mile coverage. but after looking real good at it. it doesnt cover body and paint......... figures tia ken .
From : tbone
my other truck is something of a bastard child.. it started life as a 74 d100 and now has the bed of a78 cab from an 8012/1979 a/c from an 87 ramcharger trans from a 67 coronet heads and intake from a 69 273.. rebuilt it twice so far. i should name it franken-truck. hi morgan. thanks for the tips. im on the minnesota/wisconsin border in the heart of rust territory. this truck was already a collection of bits and pieces of other trucks when i bought it. god only knows where alot of the running gear and body parts came from. ive had a couple mechanics that have more on the ball than i will ever have check the drive train. the rear differential has been gone over. it can be in motion up to 5 or 10 feet before the thud comes along. if i am gentle with it no thud at all. the rear springs are not the best. im gonna run with the used oil idea. the frame needs a shot of something to hold the rust back. i have a body shop that is more than willing to put the new outer roof on i just wondered about taking the old roof off grinding down the welds and handing it to them to finish the reassembly. im not crazy enough to try it after seeing the way it is welded together at the back of the cab. anything i do has to be done in a friends barn. no garage here. .
From : denny
tehboner wrote it was not just someone it was a dodge dealership and they used dodge performance parts. if they dont back up their work or parts only an idiot would stick with them. nothing more to say after reading that they were not dodge parts it really doesnt matter. they are an official representative of the manufacturer and were the ones who installed them. dc at the least should force this dealership to make the repairs even at the dealerships cost. to simply dismiss it like they did shows their more concerned about a few more dollars over customer loyalty and if that is what they want.... -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : mike simmons
lawrence tnloaswpraemnmcien5g@earthlink.net writes interesting you should ask. in fact they do. the misfires appear to be happening at loaded idle idling in gear. checked/cleaned/replaced the idle air control motor not that im aware. thanks for the tip. will give it a try. this is beginning to drive me nuts. .
From : greg surratt
had one replaced on my 02 dakota under warranty part $6 labor $80 bad resistor 2002 dakota; 3.9 v6 heater/ac fan motor will only run in high speed. any suggestions are appreciated. .
From : mike simmons
thats because you dont read... jeez tom are you having the same problem with tbone that everyone else has well thats because its you/us not him wtf are you thinking i dont really care if you agree or not tom... im telling you the way it is and mike who does this for a living is telling you the same thing... the fact that you choose to ignore it and substitute your view of reality is well... you. tbone rejects reality and substitutes his own just like mythbuster adam. id just like to be a fly on the wall when tbone hears this line im not fixing it because its your problem. his hud would immediately display a list of culpable subjects listed in order of availability. none of these would be me. a quick right click and a mid screen list of options such as blame point at indictate insinuate would drop down from the subject and a quick selection would allow him to place a degree of agression towards the subject. once selected the subject would have subheadings to choose from one being main issue another being diversion issue and of course off topic entirely. in order of selection each one would be either the main tactic or a side tactic and a neat little graphic with several buttons on it for quick selection would appear. each button would be labelled so he could insert the topics at will. across the bottom would be four big buttons opposition is full of shit but im not sure how sexual innuendo a pop up with selection buttons hetero homo your mama your girlfriend/wife would appear with confirming buttons ok or not ok but do it anyway at the bottom spin pop up with shaken stirred aw fuck what did i say anyway with ok and do it now before i feel like an ass at the bottom and of course back pedal at warp factor ten mr. sulu. ok ran out of ideas im hungry. just remember its us not him and everything in his little world will be aaaaaa friggin ok!!! -- max give a man a match and he is warm for a short while. light him on fire and he is warm for the rest of his life. that is not how i read it. thats because you dont read... friday went out and drove a 2005 ford f250 crewcab. very nice riding truck. might have to go monday and price it out. dodge has really disappointed me after 5 dodge trucks maybe time to switch. now - tell me how that doesnt sound like hes going to trade his truck in on an 05 sd. it most certainly is different. a private shop has no connection with the manufacturer at all and is not authorized by dc to do anything to the vehicle very different than a dealership. so you think dc authorized the installation of some aftermarket fender trim and if they didnt authorize it then the dealership was acting independently werent they just like a dealer that installs a performance chip on a truck and there are dealers that do that. try getting dc to pay for engine damage with an aftermarket performance box on it if you didnt go back to the installing dealer. the dealership is its own business. yep and part of their business is representing the manufacturer. yeah - part of their business is. but not everything they do is backed by the manufacturer. hell ive seen gm/ford trucks in my dodge dealers service department. obviously theyre not representing dc when working on those vehicles - so why should this situation be different i do not agree i dont really care if you agree or not tom... im telling you the way it is and mike who does this for a living is telling you the same thing... the fact that you choose to ignore it and substitute your view of reality is well... you. not when it comes to them making modifications on the vehicles that they are authorized by the manufacturer to perform service and warranty work on. if dc didnt authorize them to install those trim pieces and im 99.99% sure they did not then how can you hold dc responsible dealerships are independent from the manufacturer. yes they but product from the manufacturer sell that product and perform factory-authorized service on said product. dc specifically disclaims responsibility for any damage caused by the installation of non-authorized parts read your warranty manual and this is exactly the situation here. the dealership did the install so they are responsible for the results - not dc. of it before it becomes a worthless rusted hulk. as for condemning the manufacturer they should be with the way they appeared to have handled the situation. im not saying i support the way they handled it either... im just not naive enough to expect anything different. they authorized this dealership service department to work on these vehicles not to install non-factory parts they didnt.... thats the part youre ignoring here. .
From : tom lawrence
it appears that we have both misread each others posts. i never suggested that he dump his vehicle and take a loss from doing so. no i know that. the op suggested that himself. that is not how i read it. what i thought he was saying is that with the way dodge handled the situation his next new truck may be a ford not that he was going to dump his current dodge for a ford tomorrow but i could be wrong. dealer. i can see in your response that this is not the case but the entire company must take some blame here not just the dealer and if they are unwilling to correct the problem that they caused.... thats akin to saying youll never buy a john deere tractor again because the last time it was in the repair shop they scratched it up. lol that has no valid comparrison to it at all. that is an excellent comparison! really how how does the improper installation of a part by someone that represents the manufacturer compare with a mechanic accidently scratching the vehicle dc has absolutely nothing to do with the problems he is having... that responsibility lies solely with the dealership service department. which is a paid representitive of dc. dc does not pay the dealership a dime! any profits the dealership earns are the result of sales by the dealer. really then i guess that your dealership does its warranty work for free and if not then you are a p a i d representative.. remember this wasnt a warranty repair - this was the dealership installing an aftermarket part at the customers request - no different than if a private shop did the same. it most certainly is different. a private shop has no connection with the manufacturer at all and is not authorized by dc to do anything to the vehicle very different than a dealership. no different than the dealership! of course you would say that mike you work for one but it is still not true. ok you know that this is not true how my simple minded little friend i have a dealer warranty and policy guidebook in my office which is as thick as a nyc phone book. in it it covers virtually every scenario a d/c dealer might encounter. i have over time read this book from cover to cover. in this tome it specifically states that d/c is not liable for any aftermarket accessories sold by the dealership. further the dealer agreement that every dealer must sign specifically exempts d/c from any liability due to an error by the dealership. legal minds have worked these things out over many years! how is it then that your knowledge is superior to those who actually do this for a living just because you wish something is so doesnt make it so. now why dont you go buy that ferd youve been talking about and go annoy the snot of of that ng with your superior knowledge of the industry.... hmmmmmm mike by installing an aftermarket accessory dc is take out of the loop and thus has no culpablity for the problem. sorry if you cant/wont understand this. you are correct in that they have no legal obligation but they still have an obligation to their customers that the dealerships that carry their name will stand behind the work they do and if not then dc is no better than their worst dealership and anyone that buys from them in that case is a fool. the dealership is its own business. yep and part of their business is representing the manufacturer. when the dealership chose to sell/install an aftermarket part the dealership no longer represents dc. lol as long as the dealership carries the manufacturers name on the sign outside and does the work on one of the manufacturers vehicles for whatever reason it always represents the manufacturer which in this case is dc. the manufacturer is responsible for making sure that they are represented correctly and by people willing to stand behind their work warranty or not. the dealership does have an obligation to stand behind the work that they do thats undeniable but dc has no obligation whatsoever in this issue. dc does have an obligation to its customers if it intends on keeping them. the days of complete blind brand loyalty has for the most part come to and end. while it may still seem to exist in a limited way in here in reality many will and are doing what dale is considering iow screw me once shame on you screw me twice shame on me. yes they sell dc products and represent dc for warranty purposes but the work they do for profit is their work and theirs alone. i do not agree not when it comes to them making modifications on the vehicles that they are authorized by the manufacturer to perform service and warranty work on. you may not agree but facts is facts! you are correct here mike and the facts is that if the manufacturer is unwilling to help a customer resolve a problem with one of its representatives then it no longer deserves that customers business
From : greg surratt
6.0l chey 300hp @ 4400rpm 5.7l dodge hemi 345hp @ 5400rpm snoman wrote the hemi dokata/durago is not a good tow vehcial. the dakota i agree with. the hemi durango is an awesome tow vehicle. i have one do you even the old dodge 360 has more towing guts below 3000 rpm than the 5.7 hemi. very wrong. the hp and torque curves of the 5.7l hemi are rather flat compared to the 360. i have the 360 in my 2001 ram. ive towed my same 5000lb trailer with both and the hemi durango easily out pulls the 360 ram. ive also towed my trailer with a 2004 chevy 2500hd and yes the chevy 6.0 is slightly better than the hemi at pulling my trailer but not by much. it really depends on what you want to tow. but saying the hemi isnt any good for towing a 5klb or so trailer is just plain wrong. it pulls mine with incredible ease faster than i wish to tow including up 6%+ grades. is 75mph+ on flats and 50mph on 6% grades not good enough you would be better off with a 4.7 and 3.92 gears or so if you want to tow up to 4000 to 5000 lbs and you will use less fuel overall too. oh geez. you havent tried it and compared it with the hemi have you the 4.7l struggles trying to pull a 4k or 5k trailer even on flats and with the 3.92s. if your trailer weigh more than that you need a more serious tow vehical than a hemi durango regardless of what chysler might claim. they do exagerate just like any other manufacture. the hemi durango will easily pull up to 6k comfortably. the 8900lb rating is a bit much for a hemi durango as well as any 1/2 ton truck but then im not going to compare a 3/4 ton truck to the hemi durango. it can be had with a short bed and it will easilty out tow a hemi because the 6.0 in it has a much better power curve for towing than the hemi it does indeed pull a bit better up the steeper grades but not by much. unless youve actually pulled the same trailer with the vehicles youve mentioned 360 4.7l hemi 5.7l and chevy 6.0l then youre guessing based on some stats. ive towed the same trailer with all 3. the 5.7l hemi is much stronger than you seem to realize. no comparison to the older dodge 360 and the 4.7l is very weak in the towing dept. the chevy 6.0l is a bit stronger but if you need that then go with a 2500hd and not the 1500. recently my friend bought a new crew cab pickup and we drove a lot together and we drove a cc hemi dualie with 4.10 gears and it was a bit of a joke power wise for a tow vehical which he needed. how much does that hemi dualie weigh fyi 2001 dodge 5.9l has 255 lb-ft at 1500rpm 2001 dodge brochure 2004 dodge 5.7l has 325 lb-ft at 1500rpm http//www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/mopar/smallblock/0403phrhemi/ .
From : mike simmons
mac davis wrote on sat 06 aug 2005 104849 -0700 chauncey gardiner chaunceygardiner@removethis.myrealbox.com wrote you have 2 considerations imho safety.. i think youre good to go using an weight distributing hitch... you want to be at least 10% under max tow weight for safety which you will be if the trailer or truck arent overloaded.. fun... we pull a travel trailer thats 4800# empty.. im guessing its under 6000# loaded... we have a 99 ram qq 2wd with 5.9l gas auto & 3.55 gears... grades are slow but thats towing imo.. a cummins would be nice but were not going to trade up to a 000 truck unless we get a bigger trailer... on level ground with od locked out its a breeze to pull at whatever speed you feel is safe... on a trip from ca to wa we took some major grades at about 40 - 45 mph at maybe 3500 rpm... i think that a 5th wheel is a great idea... better weight distribution less total length better ride and handling.... id put a good set of air bags on the rear to help level the load and soften the ride.. the 4.7l has less torque than the 5.9 but i think it will do fine with a little patience.. imo if its a recreation vehicle you dont need to be in a hurry relax and enjoy the trip... ymmv if you took the time and trouble to regear your truck to 3.92 or 4.10 you would have a completely different view of its tow performace with it and be able to take grades in drive that you take in 2nd and reduce engine and tranny strain too as well and make your tow vehicial last longer too. also you will likely see a mpg increase towing because the engine will run at a more efficent rpm for cruising under a load and will not have to work as hard to produce x amount of hp at a higher rpm than a lower one because of hp tow requirements. -- posted using the http//www.autoforumz.com interface at authors request articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards topic url http//www.autoforumz.com/dodge-towing-ram-1500-ftopict132471.html visit topic url to contact author reg. reqd. report abuse http//www.autoforumz.com/eform.phpp=646022 .
From : dale yonz
hi all! is this the right place to ask for help trying to keep my 1985 w- 150 on the road lots of questions including how the roof panels and drip rail are welded together before they start to disintegrate. is taking the old outer roof panel off a safe job for an amateur the best rust inhibiters to use before priming painting and undercoating the bad spots under the box floor and behind the sides good sources for generic body parts when available etc. i cant afford a bodyshop so i need to do my own work when possible. this is a great old pickup but is in need of some serious tlc. mechanically it runs great but has a delayed thud and shudder when accelerating from a complete stop at a sign or light. its been doing it for quite some time 3 years but nothing obvious has surfaced. thanks and .....help!!!!!! andy .
From : dale yonz
for what its worth i shorted or soldered around it and its been working fine since. i have a bad power seat motor and have taken apart the motor to see what the problem is. ram 1500 1998. the motor is perfect but a series internal thermal protector is bad. it has about 28 ohms of resistance. what is this device and how does it work it does not look like a thermal fuse. it looks like it should go up in resistance when you reach the end of travel and the motor draws excessive current. then it should drop back to an ohm or two after it cools down. this is the only thing i can find wrong with the motor. have you ever seen this before any help would be appreciated. thanks marvin ps im betting a new motor is $100 !! .
From : tbone
on 10 aug 2005 090101 -0700 craig@metronet.com wrote 18000.00 canadian dollars what is that 25.00 usd if so thats a pretty good deal. buy the ford. im just trying to lighten the mood. everyone gets so worked up about the dumbest shit. did you have any idea how explosive a discussion rust on your truck would be. go eagles! craig c. never mind rust. i was worked up because im being forced to get new front and rear bumpers on my 3500 as the result of a guy kissing the backend of my truck with a ford taurus. he hit me hard enough to shove me into the vehicle in front of me even though i was stopped with my foot still on the brakes and the wheels locked. no other damage except the bumpers and the electrical connector on the trailer hitch. my wife had backed into something a couple of years ago and put a one inch scratch on the rear bumper. when i told her about the accident i told her i was getting the rear bumper replaced so she wouldnt have to feel guilty about scratching my truck anymore. ;- .
From : steve lusardi
on wed 10 aug 2005 134516 -0500 mike simmons mikesim@yhti.net wrote dc has absolutely nothing to do with the problems he is having... that responsibility lies solely with the dealership service department. which is a paid representitive of dc. dc does not pay the dealership a dime! any profits the dealership earns are the result of sales by the dealer. what is considered aftermarket i went in and speced a couple of trucks online and there were several factory options available with notes that said shipped with the vehicle for dealer installation. for example nerf bars on a gm truck oh leave me alone i was just looking ;- if the dealer is installing factory shipped items are they covered under the original vehicle warranty at any dealership and another question undercoating! this is a cash cow for a dealer. i have seen where undercoating will void a rust-through warranty because it may leave pockets where salt and other stuff can be trapped. but if the dealer does the undercoating prior to delivery how would that affect my rust-through warranty greg .
From : Annonymous
miles wrote snoman wrote the old dodge 360 had more torque below 300 rpm even though it had a lower peak hp rating and would do better than a hemi towing most of the time with the corect gearing but some people seem to go brain dead on the subject of gearing and towing not say that is the case here like it does not matter even if you show them the math. i assume you meant 3000rpm. what years are you referring to when you say old dodge 360 i have the numbers from dodges own brochures for my 2001 360 and my 2004 hemi. the 360 has lower torque below and above 3000rpms. the hemis torque curve is rather flat. all i can say is that the hemi is far stronger at pulling my trailer with identicle gearing 3.92. there is just no comparison. drive them both then report back your findings. typo on the 300 but in the reall world i have driven hemis and the torque on them is no where near as flat as they would like you to believe and a engine with w 4200 rpm torque peak is not a strong performer below 3000 rpm and will guzzle the gas when working hard too. when towing on the hiway you want your engine to be near its peak ve volumetric efficency which is also its torque peak because it will use the least amount of fuel per hp hour produced. with hemi this is not possible in any gear for extended pulls ve rpm is too high and a poor choice for a tow motor. the old 360 reached peak ve by 3000 rpm or less and did better maxed out towing. the hemi is a joke as a tow motor in its current tune. when my friend was looking at new trucks we drove a cc 3500 dadge with 4.10 and a hemi it was a joke and a slug. that big old dually with that motor was not impressive at all. a like gm truck with a 6.0 and a low hp rating but with a lower rpm power peak ran circles around it. the 345 hp rating is ust that a rating because it is not usable towing and is more hype than anything. chysler would have been better served to have made a detuned version for trucks tha made 300 hp or so but that had a torque peak at a far more usable 3000 rpm for suv towing use. -- posted using the http//www.autoforumz.com interface at authors request articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards topic url http//www.autoforumz.com/dodge-towing-ram-1500-ftopict132471.html visit topic url to contact author reg. reqd. report abuse http//www.autoforumz.com/eform.phpp=646021 .
From : bob m
it appears that we have both misread each others posts. i never suggested that he dump his vehicle and take a loss from doing so. no i know that. the op suggested that himself. that is not how i read it. what i thought he was saying is that with the way dodge handled the situation his next new truck may be a ford not that he was going to dump his current dodge for a ford tomorrow but i could be wrong. dealer. i can see in your response that this is not the case but the entire company must take some blame here not just the dealer and if they are unwilling to correct the problem that they caused.... thats akin to saying youll never buy a john deere tractor again because the last time it was in the repair shop they scratched it up. lol that has no valid comparrison to it at all. that is an excellent comparison! dc has absolutely nothing to do with the problems he is having... that responsibility lies solely with the dealership service department. which is a paid representitive of dc. dc does not pay the dealership a dime! any profits the dealership earns are the result of sales by the dealer. remember this wasnt a warranty repair - this was the dealership installing an aftermarket part at the customers request - no different than if a private shop did the same. it most certainly is different. a private shop has no connection with the manufacturer at all and is not authorized by dc to do anything to the vehicle very different than a dealership. no different than the dealership! by installing an aftermarket accessory dc is take out of the loop and thus has no culpablity for the problem. sorry if you cant/wont understand this. the dealership is its own business. yep and part of their business is representing the manufacturer. when the dealership chose to sell/install an aftermarket part the dealership no longer represents dc. the manufacturer is responsible for making sure that they are represented correctly and by people willing to stand behind their work warranty or not. the dealership does have an obligation to stand behind the work that they do thats undeniable but dc has no obligation whatsoever in this issue. yes they sell dc products and represent dc for warranty purposes but the work they do for profit is their work and theirs alone. i do not agree not when it comes to them making modifications on the vehicles that they are authorized by the manufacturer to perform service and warranty work on. you may not agree but facts is facts! by all means never go back to that dealership for service again but to condemn the manufacturer and to go further and dump the vehicle at a financial loss makes absolutely no sense. i agree with not dumping the vehicle at a loss unless he intends to get rid of it before it becomes a worthless rusted hulk. as for condemning the manufacturer they should be with the way they appeared to have handled the situation. they authorized this dealership service department to work on these vehicles and should put pressure on them to correct errors that they caused not just blow off the customer like they seemed to have done. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : Annonymous
stacker wrote my other truck is something of a bastard child.. it started life as a 74 d100 and now has the bed of a78 cab from an 8012/1979 a/c from an 87 ramcharger trans from a 67 coronet heads and intake from a 69 273.. rebuilt it twice so far. i should name it franken-truck. hi morgan. thanks for the tips. im on the minnesota/wisconsin border in the heart of rust territory. this truck was already a collection of bits and pieces of other trucks when i bought it. god only knows where alot of the running gear and body parts came from. ive had a couple mechanics that have more on the ball than i will ever have check the drive train. the rear differential has been gone over. it can be in motion up to 5 or 10 feet before the thud comes along. if i am gentle with it no thud at all. the rear springs are not the best. im gonna run with the used oil idea. the frame needs a shot of something to hold the rust back. i have a body shop that is more than willing to put the new outer roof on i just wondered about taking the old roof off grinding down the welds and handing it to them to finish the reassembly. im not crazy enough to try it after seeing the way it is welded together at the back of the cab. anything i do has to be done in a friends barn. no garage here. mn.. just so you know my dad told me that when he was in the coast guard and stationed in virginia beach they had an old jeep to go down the beach and get the kids for school. once a month theyd mix up some kero and 90 weight and spray it down to coat all where the salt water would splash. they had the thing for -years- and when they used a pressure washer to clean off all the gunk from all those years to sell it the thing looked brand new. my old truck still has the original e-brake cables because whenever i get any grease from greasing u-joints on my hands i just smear it along the cables. mind you these are the old steel jacketed & wire wound cables and its a really good idea to slime them when you need em to work. your truck however has the e-brake setup that if you want to you can pull off the lever on the side of the frame and put a grease fitting in it should keep it from seizing like my 87 wanted to.. i had to smack that sucker with a hammer and spray with penetrating oil to get it to loosen up. by the way ive been to menasha wi.. right accross from pierce fire equipment when i was working for swift transportation. saw some nice old vehicles too.. anyway your cab is put together in such a way that youd have to cut the inner side of the roof loose to get at the welds for the outer roof..not fun. .
From : steve w
is anyone else experiencing problems with rusting seat brackets under the seats. i noticed the brackets under my front seats and the dealer replaced them under warranty. however my back seat brackets are also rusting . i guess im wondering if this sold as new truck might have been partially submerged. i cant imagine rust forming on metals that are in a dry cab and protected from the elements by not only the cab itself but also the seats. you could very well have one that has been in water there have been enough floods lately. they clean them up replace the carpet and pad move them around to a different state and after a couple of years stuff starts to happen. usually electrical problems will show up first. sometimes you can pick up a musty sort of smell from the car or truck. roy gary .
From : tom lawrence
actually very common to see rust on those brackets. they are not really protected with good paint and they rust. i have seen it on gm ford dodge cars/trucks. -- steve w. is anyone else experiencing problems with rusting seat brackets under the seats. i noticed the brackets under my front seats and the dealer replaced them under warranty. however my back seat brackets are also rusting . i guess im wondering if this sold as new truck might have been partially submerged. i cant imagine rust forming on metals that are in a dry cab and protected from the elements by not only the cab itself but also the seats. gary ----== posted via feeds.com - unlimited-uncensored-secure usenet ==---- http//www.feeds.com the #1 group service in the world! 120000+ groups ----= east and west-coast server farms - total privacy via encryption =---- .
From : roy
bad resistor 2002 dakota; 3.9 v6 heater/ac fan motor will only run in high speed. any suggestions are appreciated. .
From : boxed
wrapped@netscape.net wrote tehboner wrote it was not just someone it was a dodge dealership and they used dodge performance parts. if they dont back up their work or parts only an idiot would stick with them. nothing more to say after reading that they were not dodge parts yes but they still sell them and install them. .
From : tbone
ok steve what would you put on your truck to protect it from stone chips like you got to have mud flaps so you have to drill a couple of holes to install them right. how about protecting the wheel well lips. do you leave the metal bare and use touch up the paint once in awhile for any chips im asking these questions because im going to get it painted and not putting anything back on. i have the mopar running boards they are ok and they are mounted to the underside. they help prevent damage to the rocker panel. fmb suggested xliner will look into that. as for assuming responsibility for my actions you are wrong on that part. dodge sold me the wheel well covers even though they werent mopar and installed them for me. like if they told me not to put them on and why i would of never had them put on. yesterday the sales manager told me that they now realize they should be taken off once in awhile and cleaned. they are finding out im not the only one having trouble. only mine the paint started to lift and surface rust is showing up. and also they are still installling them. and im not in denial ford trucks are not an inferior product. personally i would clean out the wheel wells real good and use bed liner inside them. on the outer lip areas use some clear chip guard spray. it sprays over the paint and prevents chipping. as for installing the molding. dont use screws. buy some good 3m trim tape clean the area with some alcohol and use a solid strip of tape applied to the edges of the molding to seal it to the body. that way dirt/salt cannot get behind it and cause problems. mud flaps are installed the same way then one stainless screw on top and bottom then clear sealant around both screws. the big thing is any rust must be removed and treated before you do anything. either grind it all off or cut out and replace it. leaving anything behind and you will regret it. ----== posted via feeds.com - unlimited-uncensored-secure usenet ==---- http//www.feeds.com the #1 group service in the world! 120000+ groups ----= east and west-coast server farms - total privacy via encryption =---- .
From : tbone
ok steve what would you put on your truck to protect it from stone chips like you got to have mud flaps so you have to drill a couple of holes to install them right. how about protecting the wheel well lips. do you leave the metal bare and use touch up the paint once in awhile for any chips im asking these questions because im going to get it painted and not putting anything back on. i have the mopar running boards they are ok and they are mounted to the underside. they help prevent damage to the rocker panel. fmb suggested xliner will look into that. dale ditto on the rhino lining. several trucks at the local 4x4 jamboree have had it sprayed on rockers wheel wells or complete underside of body and it looks good and lasts forever. that would work well down low. but he had wheel opening moldings on it that seem to be the problem. those things were always a problem probably why most makers dont offer them. roy go pats!! denny .
From : steve lusardi
tehboner wrote it was not just someone it was a dodge dealership and they used dodge performance parts. if they dont back up their work or parts only an idiot would stick with them. nothing more to say after reading that they were not dodge parts .
From : fred
lawrence tnloaswpraemnmcien5g@earthlink.net writes shop idling in gear and you can see the misfires counting up 810 in the course of a couple minutes all on #7. the only code being set is p0307. while this is happening misfires counting up if you give it a slight bit of throttle do the misfires go away interesting you should ask. in fact they do. the misfires appear to be happening at loaded idle idling in gear. .
From : fmb
the coolant temperature sensor on my 93 dakota measures too low when i check the resistance according to the shop manual. unfortunately i havent been able to find a replacement for this sensor at parts stores or the local dodge dealer. the sensor on my dakota is small and has only one pin. the parts stores have a larger unit with two pins. any one else have this problem is the faulty sensor likely to cause any problems the gauge when the engine is fully warm is just above the c. thanks .
From : mike simmons
snippage next question what can a person do to protect that narrow piece of fender the inside lip from stone chips dale check out http//www.goline-x.com/otheruses.shtml or http//tinyurl.com/dbfte and go down the red listed other applications and you will find general automotive; jeep floorboards van interiors wheel well undercoating motorcycle fenders underside body panels as rock guard protection etc that was line-x this is rino. http//www.rhinolinings.com/rl/main/protection/colorpicker.jsp or http//tinyurl.com/dggcp shows how they do simular but will color match. -- fmb only one b in fmb .
From : dale yonz
1123544521.659322.147420@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com craig@metronet.com craig@metronet.com wrote dodge will fix it ... you may have to chew a little ass ... but theyll take care of it. btw if you think switching to a ford will fix this type of b.s. you are sorely mistaken. you will lose your ass on the sale of the truck you have now ... and youll pay an average of 5k more than a comparably equiped dodge. they want 18000 difference on a new 05. i had a ford truck a few years back. it had the 1 year/12000 mile warranty. i took the truck in for some issues with the brakes that were not wear related. the truck had 11750 miles on it. after leaving it with them for 3 days i went to pick it up and nothing was fixed. by the time i got back the dealer i had 12050 miles. they refused to fix it under warranty because i was over the 12k mark. id still own a ford just not from them. craig c. .
From : dale yonz
pyije.2487$rz2.1546@read3..atl.earthlink.net tom lawrence tnloaswpraemnmcien5g@earthlink.net wrote friday went out and drove a 2005 ford f250 crewcab. very nice riding truck. might have to go monday and price it out. yeah by all means trade in your truck because someone installed some fender trim incorrectly. who exactly are you trying to spite here no one tom just telling you whats happening. like i said the ford was a lot better riding truck had more room talking about a f250 crewcab lariat i have a laraime 2500. .
From : dale yonz
roy@home.net wrote friday went out and drove a 2005 ford f250 crewcab. very nice riding truck. might have to go monday and price it out. dodge has really disappointed me after 5 dodge trucks maybe time to switch. dale dale before you go to ford take a 05 ctd for a spin. roy i got the cummins i really like it and get good mileage. today drove to saskatoon 80 mile trip from the farm was reading around 21 mpg. i priced out a 2005 they want 18000 diff with taxes. the trucks up here are around 59000. with the new staff pricing incentive on 2005 it comes down to around 52000. .
From : dale yonz
first i stand corrected i was mistaken there was a map which i found but have not determined if i need to replaced yet. today i brought the van to a friends shop and he tried to convince me that the timing belt was off one tooth on the crank. i torn it down enough to convince myself that it was not off. he stated that the idle vacuum at 15 pounds was to low and that it needed to be around 20 pounds and that the timing belt being off one tooth would do that. if it was consistently running rough i might buy into it but it has a very unpredictable roughness to it. i adjusted the timing and took it for a short drive this evening and it wasnt running to bad until i turned back into the driveway and then it started to run real rough with the check engine light coming on and off as the speed went low which relates too low vacuum which at a slow idle i would expect. i have checked and replace all the vacuum hoses that i though even looked like they might be a problem and so far have not seen any improvement. i also sucked on the end of the hoses and have not found any that would not create a vacuum. i am now wondering if there is something going on with or around the fuel pump that might be causing it. i kind of believe that fuel pump problems were hight speed related but maybe not. i did a test of pulling off spark plug wires one at a time and it almost seems like number one cylinder isnt contributing much. all the others slow down the engine until i replace the spark plug wire but number one doesnt seem to do much. could this be an injector problem or a valve problem from a valve not seating good enough i have ruled out the spark plug which i have changed out without any improvement. answers thanks ron bobq wrote ron my 96 was running rough at idle and id checked all else i could including fuel pressure. i ended up having the injectors cleaned at http//cruzinperformance.com/ which did an excellent job about a year ago. much improved. had about 140k miles. am at 149 now. also the 89 3.0 definitely has a map sensor. it is on the right fender but a problem with it will show in a check engine light coming on. good luck no map on this vehicle. i have checked and tripled checked all hoses and if there is a leak someplace i sure have missed it. it acts like dirt would do in the fuel line of a carb. version. i did replace the fuel filter a few months back. it will run great for a while then go into a rough idle state then back ot running great again. i am sure a bad or vacuum hose off what not do this. thanks anyway and i will take a forth look at the hoses. ron transurgeon wrote vacuum hose off somewhere map sensor hose for starters............... i just got through rebuilding my wifes 1989 plymouth voyager 3.0 l engine plus any thing else i would find when i had the engine out like the rack and pinion and control arm bushings. the problem i am having is one that it had before i tore into it so i it isnt anything that i did wrong. my basic reason for the rebuild was to take care of all the leaks which included a blown head gasket. ok the problem is the engine isnt running good at idle. the first part i replaced was the air idle control valve motor. at the price of sensors and valves i hate to just replace them if i an not sure they are defective. the air idle control valve did seem to make some difference but still if i come up to a stop light with the air on the engine will die. the van has 140000 miles on it and still has the original fuel pump but i was told if it is bad there would be more of a high speed problem the idle problem. any suggestions thanks ron in phx .
From : dale yonz
durje.2675$rz2.880@read3..atl.earthlink.net tom lawrence tnloaswpraemnmcien5g@earthlink.net wrote it was not just someone it was a dodge dealership and they used dodge performance parts. if they dont back up their work or parts only an idiot would stick with them. right... so instead of either fixing the problem and continuing on or going back to the people who screwed up the installation and getting them to fix it as they should - theyre certainly at fault hes going to take a bath on either selling or trading the truck losing at least three times what it will cost to fix it. and while were on the subject of fixing it a $1300 paint job correct me if im wrong but isnt the rust behind the trim which is why he didnt notice it until removing the trim if so who really cares if its an exact match or not... mask the area off sand the rust away shoot it with a good rust-inhibiting primer out of a can then put on a coat of close-enough top coat and put the trim back on. there... problem solved - for about $30 in materials and a few hours of work. but that aside - my original point was that getting rid of the truck is stupid. sure by all means never do business with that dealer again. but getting rid of the truck impacts no one but himself. tom im not going to put on the chrome mouldings back on after it gets painted. today i talked to bodyshop. they have to paint the whole fenders. the mouldings on the top edges rubbed the paint. i tried waxing the marks offbut they still show up. its the salt and sand that gets into these mouldings so im not going to take them off and put them back on during the winter when i wash the truck. the screws that they used to install these mouldings were badly rusted. had philip screw heads and some had to drill out. next question what can a person do to protect that narrow piece of fender the inside lip from stone chips look at the ford some gm they have a plastic trim factory installed around the wheel well. i had an 97 expedition with these on had no problem with the paint or rust. .
From : tom lawrence
would that also cause the vehicle to hesitate when first started not really... the sole purpose of the iac motor is to allow the engine to get enough air when the throttle plates are closed foot off the accelerator to maintain proper idle speed. if the engines idling fine the iac is working properly. it could be a bad tps throttle position sensor whos job is to monitor the position of the throttle plates. the pcm uses this to say ah hah the throttle plates are opening so i need to add more fuel adjust the timing all that fuel-injection stuff. the pcm uses the tps reading as sort of an early warning that the mixtures going to go lean rather than wait to sense a change in pressure within the manifold via the map sensor. try this next time... put it in gear give it a couple of seconds then let off the brake but dont give it any throttle. if the engine is still running smooth very gently and very slowly apply some throttle. if that keeps the engine running good but nailing the throttle from a stand-still causes it to hesitate then id go ahead and troubleshoot the tps with a voltmeter and if found to be bad replace it. .
From : Annonymous
ron my 96 was running rough at idle and id checked all else i could including fuel pressure. i ended up having the injectors cleaned at http//cruzinperformance.com/ which did an excellent job about a year ago. much improved. had about 140k miles. am at 149 now. also the 89 3.0 definitely has a map sensor. it is on the right fender but a problem with it will show in a check engine light coming on. good luck no map on this vehicle. i have checked and tripled checked all hoses and if there is a leak someplace i sure have missed it. it acts like dirt would do in the fuel line of a carb. version. i did replace the fuel filter a few months back. it will run great for a while then go into a rough idle state then back ot running great again. i am sure a bad or vacuum hose off what not do this. thanks anyway and i will take a forth look at the hoses. ron transurgeon wrote vacuum hose off somewhere map sensor hose for starters............... i just got through rebuilding my wifes 1989 plymouth voyager 3.0 l engine plus any thing else i would find when i had the engine out like the rack and pinion and control arm bushings. the problem i am having is one that it had before i tore into it so i it isnt anything that i did wrong. my basic reason for the rebuild was to take care of all the leaks which included a blown head gasket. ok the problem is the engine isnt running good at idle. the first part i replaced was the air idle control valve motor. at the price of sensors and valves i hate to just replace them if i an not sure they are defective. the air idle control valve did seem to make some difference but still if i come up to a stop light with the air on the engine will die. the van has 140000 miles on it and still has the original fuel pump but i was told if it is bad there would be more of a high speed problem the idle problem. any suggestions thanks ron in phx .
From : tom lawrence
truck does not run right. is there a way to check the valve link and cable to rule this out. yep - take it back to the dealer and say it dont run right. fix please. .
From : roy
friday went out and drove a 2005 ford f250 crewcab. very nice riding truck. might have to go monday and price it out. yeah by all means trade in your truck because someone installed some fender trim incorrectly. who exactly are you trying to spite here .
From : mike simmons
im a veggie user and have research this type of fuel. if you must put oil in the diesel fuel. use svo only. why if you use dino oil. you will generate ash after the burn. this ash can abrade you engine. best; dave sounds logical but atf is red colored a problem in the sense that it will give the appearance of using untaxed offroad fuel if you get audited. maybe some of the additives recommended by would be better advised. de on fri 5 aug 2005 211920 -0700 willer wilcbnll@elosoisp.com wrote anyone have any experience adding either a quart of 30w or a quart of atf to each tank of dieselengine is a 2003 5.9l ho. i did this for years on a 93 ford 7.3 diesel it really helped the injector pump run quieter plus there was less stalling. all this came about when the government mandated de-sulphurized diesel for environmental reasons thus robbing the diesel fuel of a lot of slickum. at the time ford recommended adding a pint of some majic stuff they had to each tank of diesel but it cost about $4 a shot so not many takers. operators of long haul transport were routinely adding atf to their diesel fuel so i tried it. worked great. ----== posted via feeds.com - unlimited-uncensored-secure usenet ==---- http//www.feeds.com the #1 group service in the world! 120000+ groups ----= east and west-coast server farms - total privacy via encryption =---- -- posted via demon.com - premium uncensored group service -------http//www.demon.com------ unlimited access anonymous accounts uncensored broadband access .