Mobil 1 vs. Valvoline?

From : butch ricker

Q: my 02 rams mil light came on but the truck seems to be running fine. turning the ignition key on and off 3x gave me the error code p 1491 which from previous postings means that the ac condensor relay is blown. i replaced it with a factory relay yet still the light remains on. my computer was updated a few months ago by the local dealer. how do i get this thing to turn off specs 2002 ram 1500 4.7l 42k miles jeff .

Replies:

From : kiel uyttenhove

i know youre using the old girl 331 just as an example and yes they did have a great hp to ci ratio but what would they rate that 331 at using the system they put in place in the early 70s ie gross vs net. jeff youre correct the old gross rating was the sae j-609 standard. the feds said the auto makers were misleading the public using this standard and forced them into a new net rating. among other things it mandated a higher ambient temperature 85 vs. the 65 previous higher humidity and all accessories installed and operating including a full exhaust system. about this same time auto makers started preparing engines for the coming low / unleaded fuels and lowered compression ratios making a direct comparison somewhat difficult. my take is that the new system took roughly 40 hp off the hp engines. compression ratios lose / gain about 4% per full ratio. the early hemi didnt hit the magic one hp per cubic inch rating until 1956 when the optional engine hit 355 hp from the 354 engine as opposed to the standard 354 / 340 hp. sorry but the 331 hit 1hp/ cu. in. in 55. in 56 chevy got 283 horse out of a dual quad 283. while the new hemi isnt a true hemi neither was the 426. there were discussions about that way back when too. regardless of what it is or isnt the new engines are very impressive. just twenty two years ago we were all stoked about fords new 302 ho engine 157 rompin stompin horsepower with a two barrel! yuck! a point of reference 1982 our own beloved 318 2 bbl in truck trim was rated 143 hp cars with their more elaborate emission control systems were down to 120 hp. the late hemis combustion chamber was a true hemispherical shape but the valve train was tipped to ease pushrod layout. the hemi stands for hemispherical not the valve train design. budd .

From : gp

tbone wrote gee and i wonder why they put that rev limiter in there. the reason i wanted to see about disabling the limliter is simple....at 90 mph it shuts the fuel off...shortly after this gd mustang caught up to me and passed me...nuff said thx all for you replys hey guysi got an 03 dakota 4.7 how do i unhook or disable this rev limiter thx thump lol gee i wonder. you know i would say go ahead! go 150 in a stock pick up truck! go ahead and roll the thing on the freeway! go ahead and kill yourself! however stupid people always insist on killing or maiming an innocent bystander in the process. they dont put a limiter on there for the drivers protection its for the sake of the drivers around them that they are going to hit at that speed. .

From : justin bird

you could put a small sub panel 4 or 6 position right next to your main. then you could remove one of your 220 volt connections like your ac from your main and power it through the new sub and use the open slots from the original ac connection to power the sub next to the main with a 100a 220v breaker. with that you could then add an additional 60 amp 220v breaker in this new sub to feed a second sub in the garage for your tools. this is easy to do and will save you a fortune over having an electrician do it and should be completely within code. i dont really have the room next to the main sub it is in a closet now. if i were to power a sub off the main ill run the wires from the main through the attic into the garage down the wall and into a sub. i see but what i was referring to was a baby sub next to your main one to give you the extra spaces that you seem to need to connect your shop sub up in the garage. do you have a main / meter combination box with a sub feeding most of the house or just a main panel with the meter outside i dont have room for a baby sub in the closet. the meter is outside it feeds a 100amp breaker right next to it that feeds the panel in the closet in the house. there isnt room enough for another sub in there imho. -- fmb only one b in fmb .

From : hairy

70 or 71 iirc. it was about a year before ford got the sohc engine into a limited drag racing use and about the time they announced the ford cobra jet engine. ford actually had the 427 sohc engine in 1964 but they got caught in the limited production deal also but ford chose not to make 500 or more cars with 427 sohc engines. 428 cobra jet engines came out in the 1968 mustang and torino 429 boss engines came out in 1969 were installed in mustangs for production purposes for nascar 429 cobra jet and super cobra jet street version engines came out in 1970 in the torino politics the gentle art of getting votes from the poor and campaign funds from the rich. .

From : 2lgsgd4lgsbttr

the post above is a customer of ours who purchased a cover used it and then demanded a full refund with shipping both ways. our return policy allows for the return of products less a restocking fee and the customer is responsible for the shipping costs. that wasnt acceptable to mike so he threatened that unless we provided a full refund of his purchase price he would smear our company and our product in any way he could. when we declined to be blackmailed he started posting false and libelous information about us on web forums. the site linked above is nothing more than a vendetta. the photos are staged. take for example the picture of how much space the cover takes up when folded - he shows a tape measure of over 10 - and then claims were lying when we claim 6 folded room. if you look at the cover - it is not folded all the way! he carefully left the panels with about a 1 gap between them to take up more room. also the tape measure is hooked over the front of the frame which wraps over the bed and takes up no room from the bed length. the rest of his site is just as much rubbish. a fact of irony the posts mike has made all over the web have in fact helped us! our web traffic has never been higher and many people who never would have heard of us otherwise have! it doesnt take much to see through the thinly veiled fabrications in mikes efforts. i would encourage anyone interested to contact us and well take you through mikes site point by point to address his claims. toll free - 877 473-7246 thank you! .

From : jerry

on sat 25 sep 2004 203130 gmt fmb fmbb@sbcglobal.net wrote can you just use the dryer plug or isnt it enough amps well not sure i should do that. the dryer plug which is in the washroom small room between the house hallway and the garage is wired for 220 as a hot - hot - neutral. the saw calls for a hot - hot - ground. yeah i know the neutral is kinda like a ground but not exactly. -- fmb only one b in fmb .

From : trey

synthetic oil and would compete as such. if it were any good that is. at the factory it failed miserably. its the multi-level marketing plan that causes folk to suspect the motivation of those pushing it. any joe blow that wants to buy a certain quantity can suddenly become a lubrication expert dealer or so they will tell you... and what are most mlms but modified if any ponzie pyramids. no one has answered the question as to why they choose not to have it api certified. because it cant pass the tests budd . 222 289841 qhn4d.8316$gg4.1014@read1..pas.earthlink.net trey wrote notice i said the intervals were 7500 in the manual. not 3000. what does 3000 miles have to do with anything i said. for that matter 7500 miles is not a factor. all i said was follow the owners manual whether using regular motor oil or synthetics and i made no reference to any mileage. if a few dollars saved is worth it in your mind then have at it. jerry .

From : trey

i always use mobil 1 and i usually try to get at least 20000 between oil changes. i drive a lot of highway miles and it works for me. ive got 195000 on my 2000 ranger and still going strong. ron wrote thought i was going to stay out of the thread but one question and i am out. has anyone sent in a sample of valvoline or some other non syn oil and have it tested for usefull life like has been down with the syn oils i have always used valvoline and everytime i change it in the 5000 mile range it still seems like it would go a lot longer. ron well my manual says 7500 miles for an oil change so at 5000 the factory says it still has 2500 miles left in it. you can always send in a sample of your own and post the results. i would be interested to send in a sample myself for my truck. .

From : jerry

if scamsoil was just another product on the shelves of your local auto parts store no one would care to bat an eye at it it is just another synthetic oil and would compete as such. if it were any good that is. at the factory it failed miserably. its the multi-level marketing plan that causes folk to suspect the motivation of those pushing it. any joe blow that wants to buy a certain quantity can suddenly become a lubrication expert dealer or so they will tell you... and what are most mlms but modified if any ponzie pyramids. no one has answered the question as to why they choose not to have it api certified. because it cant pass the tests budd .

From : tony kimmell

ford. i figure the super whipple would put me at about 480hp. im going to probably piss off the blind loyalty folks but heres my take on it. i looked long and hard at the srt 10. it is a looks like a truly impressive truck but it isnt really a truck. it is quick. now for the down side it will cost around 45k or they did when i was looking last april you cant tow with them you cant put more than 500lbs. in the bed. so say the dealer. warranty issues they say. they only come as a standard which can be a pia if you have to contend with traffic. the srt 10 is a few mph faster top end and a couple of tenths quicker in the quarter depending on what test you read than the lightning. you can tow with the lightning you can put a 1/2 ton in the bed. one other thing you can spend the 15k$ that you save on it on a nice hd you can probably guess that i bought a lightning. love the sound of the blower in the morning sounds like victory.bfg according to the guy on trucks ford is redoing the lightning to match power and speed with the srt10 in 05 or possibly 06 and with that will probably come the same limitations and pricing as the srt10. historically the lightning has had reasonable towing ability and the use of the bed though somewhat limited. why would they change now its the reason the lightning has been popular all along while others have come and gone. great performance and some utility at a reasonable price. i believe that it is a matter of status. for a long time ford was the king and now dodge has something that can beat it in power speed and handling. i believe that if dodge could have created this level of performance and made it fully usable as a truck they would have but as they say there is no such thing as a free lunch so instead they basically redesigned a viper with a truck body. if ford wants to regain its crown and compete with dodge on this level they will have to make some serious changes and give up the actual truck capability and stacy from trucks made it sound like that is their intention. not really tom. all ya have to do is change the pulleys to up the boost. or change the blower to a kb and go with a dyno tune a safer metheod. remember we are only talking a few mph and a few tenths.rumor is a total redesign and more hp some time in 06. roy the lightings close to being maxed out as it is. with their new intercooler that runs off the a/c itll put out some hefty hp. but all the while the srt-10s still loafing. bolt a kb onto an srt-10 and youll kill any lightning. maxed out doubtful but who knows. i dont know roy. what else can they do to that thing theres not much more headroom in that engine for increased power. thing is that you could take some of the approx 15k that you saved in buying a lightning mod it a bit match the srt10 performance and still have a bunch of the 15k leftover. now thats a different story. only problem is that as soon as you start adding mods you have potential warranty issues with ford. for that matter why not just build a nice 60s truck with a 500hp crate motor thats the name of the game. gotta love aftermarket. also youd still have a truck that you can tow with and load in other words it would still be useful as a truck. simply not an issue for me. i dont think of these trucks as traditional trucks at all. to me theyre street racers. if im going to tow and haul i certainly wouldnt use a lightning or an srt-10. then again unless you spend your life on a strip the difference in performance isnt all that noticable on the street. actually most would never use all the performance that either truck can produce so it comes down to the 15k difference in price and the the ability to function as a truck. roy i think the big thing here is that some people expect these trucks to be two different vehicles. i think theyre street racers and thats all. sure i can go to home depot and throw some stuff in the back but theyre not trucks in the traditional sense at all. yup you can toss a bunch of stuff in the back if you want. i tow about 4000lbs of atvs and stuff with mine. empty it becomes a toy. as for the performance talk to any performance vehicle enthusiast. you can never have too much power. very very true! roy joe black 03 dakota 5.9 r/t cc calypso green 93 mustang 5.0 lx hatch with a few goodies . 222 289953 2rma4vf1befs7u1@uni-berlin.de jeff mayner jeffmayner@yahoo.com wrote in tbone wrote tbone wrote i am thinking about buying the srt 10. my problem is i have spent 5 years working on building my 96 c1500 ext cab chevy truck. i am at the point where all i need to do is finish the motor. all it needs is a whipple super charger. but now i am thinking about the srt 10 since it has everything i want my chevy have. my question is should i sell the older truck and buy an srt. i am looking for opions about the srt.

From : trey

in the 50s essentially each automotive line at mopar; dodge chrysler desoto and imperial plymouth wasnt supposed to get one but did a year or so later had their own version of the hemi and few parts interchanged. of course this was a financial nightmare so in 1958 all hemis were dropped. in 64 to counter big block changes by ford and gm in nascar chrysler brought back the hemi but now it was the same engine for all brands whether dodge plymouth or chrysler didnt matter. because the basic design was nearly the same as the 50s engine tooling up took less time then gm or ford expected catching them with their nascar pajamas down. they had nothing that could keep up with it.the end result was according to most historical records the hemi was banned. overall mopar has been banned at least five times i know of from racing . . so they must be doing something right. vbg with todays manufacturing methods the hemi and pent roof four valve heads are much easier to build than wa-a-a-y back when. budd is the hemi more expensive to build is that why they quit making them the current hemi has two plugs per cylinder. i havent had to replace em yet but i know theyre there g. --mike while the spark plug is centrally located and has several advantages for being there this is not a strict requirement to be a hemi. dodge was working on a replacement for the 426 hemi which had a less expensive head that located the plug similar to their wedge heads of the era. chryco pulled the plug pun intended on this hemi and it was never built for production. dick landy dli owns one of these factory hemi engines. it can be seen at the walter p. chrysler museum in auburn hills mi from time to time. ken centrally located spark plug in that hemispherical head. almost like the advantage a central spark plug would have in a four valve per cylinder without the expensive parts. look at where your c1500s plugs are vs. where the bikes plugs are. the hemi looks more like your bikes head. whats different about a hemi engine that make it a hemi is it the pistons -- smoove 91 gsxr 750 96 chevy c1500 and 94 suburban hated by many... confronted by none! pain is weakness leaving the body!!! its better to be judged by twelve than carried by six. www.myhooptie.com .

From : ron

hmmmm guess i gotta brush up on my latin lmao think they will offer this engine in rams http//www.autointell-.com/-2004/august-2004/august-2004-3/august -18-04-p2.htm i am waitin for the 528 hemi crate motor to appear in the new rams shepherds we shall be for thee my lord for thee power hath decended forth from thy hand so our feet may swiftly carry out thy command we shall flow a river forth to thee and teeming with souls shall it ever be in nomine patris et filii et spiritus sancti .

From : the other kevin in san diego skiddz at adelphia dot net

ok now i know what your delta looks like! check out this guys shop and his cabinet work... http//www.e-woodshop.net/ mac i see a very large difference between his shop and my garage besides the very nice assortment of toys he has. he has floor space. i can see it in almost every photo. i should have some floor space soon my son just got a storage garage at one of those storage places so we can move a lot of his stuff out. it will be nice to be able to have workspace in the garage again... -- fmb only one b in fmb .

From : toofargon1946

perfectly normal. it cooled. sucked the water out of the reservoir. .

From : trey

engine recently rebuilt and new tires and all receipts. the truck has a spun #3 bearing and needs some work. make an offer 360-668 1440 ask for dave what will you pay me to tow it away .

From : jeff

snip cracked around plug snip the foolish tirade sounds like the oil pan is not the only thing cracked!!! .

From : tbone

first off i agree with you about the actual use-ability of the srt-10. it never ceases to amaze me that while at one time owning a pickup was looked down upon sorry but we dont allow pick ups in this community. its now fashionable and if the truck is less a truck than it should be the lightning isnt fully a truck either imho and more suited it is to canyon carving the better. what ever happened to owning a truck just to haul and tow with budd i am thinking about buying the srt 10. my problem is i have spent 5 years working on building my 96 c1500 ext cab chevy truck. i am at the point where all i need to do is finish the motor. all it needs is a whipple super charger. but now i am thinking about the srt 10 since it has everything i want my chevy have. my question is should i sell the older truck and buy an srt. i am looking for opions about the srt. is it worth the money or should i finish the chevy. i have no preference when it comes to trucks as long as it is not a ford. i figure the super whipple would put me at about 480hp. im going to probably piss off the blind loyalty folks but heres my take on it. i looked long and hard at the srt 10. it is a looks like a truly impressive truck but it isnt really a truck. it is quick. now for the down side it will cost around 45k or they did when i was looking last april you cant tow with them you cant put more than 500lbs. in the bed. so say the dealer. warranty issues they say. they only come as a standard which can be a pia if you have to contend with traffic. the srt 10 is a few mph faster top end and a couple of tenths quicker in the quarter depending on what test you read than the lightning. you can tow with the lightning you can put a 1/2 ton in the bed. one other thing you can spend the 15k$ that you save on it on a nice hd you can probably guess that i bought a lightning. love the sound of the blower in the morning sounds like victory.bfg roy .

From : tbone

on thu 23 sep 2004 000123 -0400 nospam.clare.nce@snyder.on.ca wrote on wed 22 sep 2004 170802 -0700 the other kevin in san diego skiddz *at* adelphia *dot* net wrote on wed 22 sep 2004 153915 gmt trey treydog90spam@hotmail.com wrote i usually park my truck over night before i crawl under it and let the oil all over my face and half the driveway. and then i always enjoy finding out the oil catch bucket is full from some other dipshit in my house that used it and didnt take it down and empty it at the recycler. tell me. why do they put the oil filter sideways i think i spend more on the clean up then the oil and filter! hehe i feel your pain. i live at the end of a cul-de-sac and have a constant breeze blowing perpendicular to my driveway. with my truck equipped with a 6 lift and big tires the oil pan is a couple feet in the air. without exception each time i drain the oil regardless of how high up i prop the drain pan the breeze blows the oil all over the friggin place. ive started laying down a 10x12 sheet of 4mil plastic and parking the truck on it when i change oil to catch the blowoff. drain and replace the filter takes less than 30 mins. prep and cleanup is well over an hour. hehe you need a drain valve in place of the drain plug with a threaded cap to prevent accidental oil loss. then you remove the plug slip on a chunk of hose and open the drain directing asll of the oil into a jug for disposal/recycling. could be wrong but i think hes referring to the strategic location most oil filters are in usually between a smoking hot exhaust manifold a few sharp metal edges placed at an odd angle with no clear line of sight down and so deep that you can only reach it by either disassembling 1/2 of the vehicle shrouding or burying your arm up to your shoulder inside the engine bay so that when you invariable burn your hand you also twist your shoulder scratch your back & bang your head trying to pull your arm back from the branding its getting. thats why they make oil filter relocation kits. i moved mine to the passenger side fender where it is easy to get at and doesnt make a mess changing it. i can also use the biggest damn filter that they make for cars without clearance problems. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : trey

thanks for all of the great info. is the 440 wedge a whole lot different from the hemi budd cochran wrote well gee i was only trying to give a quick overview not a detailed history. so when was the hemi first banned from racing by whom 1936 chrysler v-16 fighter aircraft what was the last mopar banned from racing it never was banned except in 1952 for the use in roadsters at indy as being to fast. lee petty turned around and won five nascar races with a hemi in 1953. 1965 nascar outlaws hemi by setting minimum production levels for street use. however in 1966 chrysler builds the street hemi and returns to nascar racing. jerry .

From : michael mcneil

in the meantime can someone tell me where the thermometer is located the thermometer ya mean the thing that reads the temperature and displays it on the overhead how one would check it for leaks/problems hmmm... most thermometers dont leak so im assuming you mean the thermostat. follow the upper radiator hose the big 2 hose that comes off the top part of the radiator and heads towards the engine. at the end of it is the thermostat housing. underneath that is the thermostat. unless theres coolant puddled on top of the intake manifold this is not your problem. the typical problem with the thermostat is a failure to open leading to overheating of the engine. the easiest way to test this is to remove the thermostat and drop it in a pot of boiling water. if it opens up its good. if not... you throw it out. of course for the $5 or so that a new thermostat costs you usually replace it anyway - the boiling pot is just for curiositys sake. .

From : trey

thanks to all whove tried to help out on my antifreeze/overheat issue. the truck will be at the shop on monday since im at a loss... in the meantime can someone tell me where the thermometer is located and how one would check it for leaks/problems its mostly just curiosity but id like to know. oh and to keep everyone interested up to date i ran the engine for about 5 minutes today to check a suspected leak -- no dice. i did notice that the radiator stayed cool while running but got really hot when i turned the engine off. .

From : doug

try for a week or two before i decide if i want the chain replaced. i dont mind spending the $$ if it fixes it. what does everyone think please let me knows. .

From : trey

on fri 17 sep 2004 082344 -0400 north north@south.east.west puked why dont ya f*%k*%g c*#^s%^@ing tell us how you fu@^#ng really motherfu*&#ng feel. i can see the jb weld company banging down your door to do a commercial touting the uses and greatness of their product lmao lol he could be the spokesmodel. too bad they didnt find him sooner. they could have put his spot on the osbournes... -- labrat - do you want polite or do you want sincere .

From : danyelita

ive got an 02 ho diesel. purchased it stock and have put a 4 magnaflow exhaust on it as well as an afe cold air intake. i removed the silencer ring before the cold air intake but had to put it back in afterwards. loud!! my question is after the cold air intake was installed i seemed to lose some power why!! maybe im focusin on the newfound sound and havent really lost anything. that brings me to my second question. ive put the silencer ring back in dont get me wrong i like the sound but its too loud. any ideas .

From : remo

from thumper the reason i wanted to see about disabling the limliter is simple....at 90 mph it shuts the fuel off...shortly after this gd mustang caught up to me and passed me...nuff said thx all for you replys mine kicks out at about 100. sometimes i need more too. but it kicks ass up to that point. hank .

From : jerry

does anybody have any experience towing off the bumper of a ram 1500 i have an 03 2wd quad cab and have heard differing opinions. one is you can tow up to i think it is 6000 #s off the bumper but then the dealer told me i couldnt tow anything with brakes off the bumper. but who in their right mind would tow 6000 #s without brakes i am towing an 1800 # trailer empty about 4000#s loaded up and it has the inertia brakes or whatever the hydraulic things built into it. does anybody have any experience with this dan www.howlingmotorsports.com .

From : tommy wood

so lets see because i sell a product i cant ask for opinions on it wouldnt that actually be the responsible thing to do i blatantly asked for the negatives. not sure how this equates to me spamming. i asked specifically for evidence of either yes i sell the product but i also use it so that gives me every right to inquire to other people about their experiences. so with all do respect you guys can go fly a kite. i posted a very polite and humble post with no sales pitch whatsoever. i guess im being beaten on for other people that have posted here. and yes for those of you who actually will check me out i did make one spam post to this board my apologies for certain. i did this before i really had an understanding of how these boards worked. as for my original post my request still stands i would love to hear more of the bad from people with first hand knowledge like the forklift mechanic. i dont really care about your opinion of how the company is run but first hand experience with the product would be fantastic. if scamsoil was just another product on the shelves of your local auto parts store no one would care to bat

From : fullname

carl wedekind wrote ive got my eye on this one for my dakota.... http//www.brakesmart.net/brakesmart.htm carl this type of controller is what was widely used in the 70s. it uses a transducer to measure brake fluid pressure and controls the trailer brakes proportionaly. it works very well one of the smoothest methods to use. only problem is that its tied to the vehicles brake system. if the tvs hydraulics fail so does the trailer brakes except for manual control. in an emergency where your tv looses hydraulics you need one hand to steer. should the other hand be used to activate the tvs emergency brake or should it activate the brake controllers manual control with a prodigy or similar controller slowing the tv with the emergency brake will also activate the trailer brakes. point well taken. however my buddys experience with a prodigy led me to the interest in brakesmart. he has a dodge ram and tows a big gooseneck flatbed. his problem was with brake fade on the tv. as the truck brakes faded even though he pressed harder the prodigy saw the lack of deceleration and offered less braking. i felt that trailer braking in proportion to pedal pressure makes the most sense. carl theres a lot cheaper and easier way to do it http//www.bestbrakecontroller.com/ rick ive used both the hydraulic pressure activated types and the electronic hall-effect sensor types. the first is super simple and nearly failure-proof; it requires to be plumbed into the tow vehicles hydraulic system -- not an option on abs-equipped tow vehicles. the latter doesnt require any plumbing and in principle should work. but my experience was that even when adjusted as best as possible it was only so-so in actual use. the bestbrakecontroller design appears to have the best of both worlds with none of the problems. im wondering if its control element is a simple series adjustable resistor as is used in hydraulic controllers or if its a pulse-width modulator la inertia-activated controllers. bryan .

From : the other kevin in san diego skiddz at adelphia dot net

heres a site you may check for a different brand. http//www.rjays.com/tekonsha/brk-controls-01.htm i just purchased a flatbed trailer. dual axle brakes on one only. now i need a good brake controller. i want digital not inertia. i want quality without a lot of extra doo-dads. i have the factory tow package and i still have the controller pig tail from dodge. right now reese is looking pretty good. what have you used that youve like or dis-liked and wheres the best place to get it -- .bob 1997 hd fxdwg - turbocharged! 2001 dodge dakota qc 5.9/4x4/3.92 1983 gmc jimmy - mountain beater 1966 mustang coupe - daily driver 1966 ffr cobra - ongoing project .

From : trey

is the hemi more expensive to build is that why they quit making them the current hemi has two plugs per cylinder. i havent had to replace em yet but i know theyre there g. --mike while the spark plug is centrally located and has several advantages for being there this is not a strict requirement to be a hemi. dodge was working on a replacement for the 426 hemi which had a less expensive head that located the plug similar to their wedge heads of the era. chryco pulled the plug pun intended on this hemi and it was never built for production. dick landy dli owns one of these factory hemi engines. it can be seen at the walter p. chrysler museum in auburn hills mi from time to time. ken centrally located spark plug in that hemispherical head. almost like the advantage a central spark plug would have in a four valve per cylinder without the expensive parts. look at where your c1500s plugs are vs. where the bikes plugs are. the hemi looks more like your bikes head.

From : the other kevin in san diego skiddz at adelphia dot net

budd cochran wrote well gee i was only trying to give a quick overview not a detailed history. so when was the hemi first banned from racing by whom 1936 chrysler v-16 fighter aircraft ok thats one that got past my research. i knew chrysler got a lot of hemi experience in ww2 by effectively re-designing b-29 engines so they wouldnt fail in flight. would you happen to have a link or library reference please what was the last mopar banned from racing it never was banned except in 1952 for the use in roadsters at indy as being to fast. that was the one i was thinking of for being the first to be banned. myer-drake / offenhauser didnt like the possibility of being replaced by shudder a production car engine and complained to usac. lee petty turned around and won five nascar races with a hemi in 1953. yep. 1965 nascar outlaws hemi by setting minimum production levels for street use. however in 1966 chrysler builds the street hemi and returns to nascar racing. and it was again banned when ford and gm couldnt build anything to keep up with it. gm dropped its ohc engine as too heavy / expensive and fords ohc big block was not quite ready for mass production. they lodged complaints with pro gm leaning bill france until he declared all non-sedge designs illegal. but the last mopar to be banned from racing was the neon in sedan racing. before that the sebrings were banned from touring class racing by the old factor them out of competition devices. thanks jerry. jerry .

From : jerry

70 or 71 iirc. it was about a year before ford got the sohc engine into a limited drag racing use and about the time they announced the ford cobra jet engine. i remember the backlash making a whole bunch of ford fans at the muffler factory mad. budd cochran wrote and it was again banned when ford and gm couldnt build anything to keep up with it. gm dropped its ohc engine as too heavy / expensive and fords ohc big block was not quite ready for mass production. they lodged complaints with pro gm leaning bill france until he declared all non-sedge designs illegal. what year was the above 1939 chrysler begins design work on first hemi a v-16 for fighter aircraft. now this sounds interesting as its about the same time w.p. and the musketeers decided to begin experimentation on head designs. 1951 chrysler stuns automotive world with 180 hp hemi v-8 engine. 1951 chrysler new yorker convertible paces indianapolis 500 race. 1951 saratoga first in stock car class; second overall in carrera pan-americana road race. 1951 briggs cunningham chooses hemi engines for his le mans race cars. 1952 a special hemi is tested in a kurtis kraft indy roadster; its banned by racing officials as too fast. 1953 lee pettys hemi dodge wins five nascar races and finishes second in championship points. 1953 cunninghams c-4r hemi wins 12 hours of sebring and finishes third at le mans. 1953 a dodge hemi v-8 breaks 196 stock car records at bonneville salt flats. 1954 a chrysler hemi with 4-barrel and dual exhausts makes 235 hp. 1954 lee petty wins daytona beach race in a chrysler hemi. 1954 lee petty wins nascar grand national championship driving chrysler and dodge hemis. 1954 cunningham hemis win sebring again third and fifth at le mans. 1954 dodge red ram hemi convertible paces indy 500. 1955 chrysler introduces the legendary 300 as americas most powerful stock car 1955 chrysler 300 with dual 4-barrel 331 c.i.d. hemi is first production car to make 300 hp. actually one report has it was 331.4 hp. so much for the chevy claim to have been the first engine to make 1 hp / cu. in. 1955 a carl keikhaefer-prepared chrysler 300 wins at daytona beach with tim flock driving. 1955 chrysler bumps hemi to 250 hp in new yorker and 280 hp in imperial. 1955 frank mundy wins aaa championship in kiekhaefer-prepared chrysler 300. 1956 desoto fireflite hemi convertible paces indianapolis 500. 1956 chrysler 300-b hemi increased to 354 c.i.d. and 340 hp with dual 4-barrels. 1956 buck baker wins nascar grand national championship in chrysler 300-b with 14 wins. 1956 chrysler 300-b sets world passenger car speed record at daytona beach - 133.9 mph. hmmm. sounds like the first muscle car was a mopar after all. vbg 1956 don big daddy garlits begins 46-year winning association with chrysler hemis. 1957 chrysler 300-c hemi increased to 392 c.i.d. and 375 hp. 1958 last year of hemi engine in chrysler 300 models. 1958 don big daddy garlits breaks the 170 mph barrier in his swamp rat hemi dragster. 1958 chrysler 300-d hemi sets a class e speed record at bonneville at 156.387 mph. 1959 original ramchargers debut high & mighty hemi-powered c/a altered class 49 plymouth to win nhra nationals. 1964 a.j. foyt wins firecracker 400 at daytona; plymouths or dodges lead every lap. 1964 chrysler introduces the 426 c.i.d. race hemi into competition. 1964 richard petty debuts the 426 hemi and laps the field while winning the daytona 500. this is what made gm and ford so irate. the reknowned gm mechanic smokey yunick had called the hemi a japanese engine and it wouldnt be any threat . . . 1964 three hemi -powered plymouths and a hemi dodge sweep daytona 1-2-3. 1964 hemi-powered stock cars win 26 of the 62 nascar grand national races. 1964 richard petty captures his first of seven driving championships with eight wins 37 top-five finishes. 1964 don garlits breaks 200 mph quarter mile barrier in hemi dragster - 201.34 mph in 7.78 sec. 1964 jim thornton wins 1964 u.s. nationals in ramchargers candymatic 426 hemi dodge. 1964 jim paschal wins nascar world 600 at charlotte motor speedway in hemi-powered plymouth. 1965 nascar outlaws hemi by setting minimum production levels for street use. isnt it a bit odd that ford and gm never had to do this for their new engines of 64-65 the 396-427 and the 427 ford only after petty lapped the whole darn field . . . 1965 bob summers sets present 409.227 mph land speed record in goldenrod using 4 hemis in tandem. 1965 shirley shahan becomes first female to win major nhra event driving a hemi plymouth. 1966 chrysler builds the street hemi and returns to nascar racing. 1966 richard petty again wins daytona 500 in his hemi plymouth belvedere. 1966 hemi dodge charger wins the nascar championship plymouth is second. 1966 norm nelson wins usac stock car championship with seven wins in a hemi plymouth. 1967 richard pet

From : trey

carl wedekind wrote ive got my eye on this one for my dakota.... http//www.brakesmart.net/brakesmart.htm carl this type of controller is what was widely used in the 70s. it uses a transducer to measure brake fluid pressure and controls the trailer brakes proportionaly. it works very well one of the smoothest methods to use. only problem is that its tied to the vehicles brake system. if the tvs hydraulics fail so does the trailer brakes except for manual control. in an emergency where your tv looses hydraulics you need one hand to steer. should the other hand be used to activate the tvs emergency brake or should it activate the brake controllers manual control with a prodigy or similar controller slowing the tv with the emergency brake will also activate the trailer brakes. point well taken. however my buddys experience with a prodigy led me to the interest in brakesmart. he has a dodge ram and tows a big gooseneck flatbed. his problem was with brake fade on the tv. as the truck brakes faded even though he pressed harder the prodigy saw the lack of deceleration and offered less braking. i felt that trailer braking in proportion to pedal pressure makes the most sense. carl -- to reply please remove x y z. .

From : trey

on thu 23 sep 2004 132639 gmt budd cochran mr-d150@citlinkspam.net wrote the facts are evident you sell amsoil youre trying to prove its worthiness . . .youre spamming no matter what you claim in your sig line. fyi a factory i worked at in the 70s used amsoil in 3 of 20 gasoline powered forklifts for 6 mos running 24 / 7 with no improvement in performance economy or longevity. how do i know i was the mechanic for the forklifts. now take your snake oil and place it where the sun doesnt shine. budd if scamsoil was just another product on the shelves of your local auto parts store no one would care to bat an eye at it it is just another synthetic oil and would compete as such. its the multi-level marketing plan that causes folk to suspect the motivation of those pushing it. any joe blow that wants to buy a certain quantity can suddenly become a lubrication expert dealer or so they will tell you... no one has answered the question as to why they choose not to have it api certified. yes i sell amsoil! no i am not asking you to buy it! dj .

From : trey

im not on the amsoil is good or not good bandwagon but your statement its just very hard to break that 3k or 3 month oil change habit shows that the oil industry has succeeded in its purpose confuse the consumer into believing they must change their oil at 3k / 3 month intervals. after all this generates added revenue. im not blaming them though. if i could take advantage of someone elses ignorance not saying youre ignorant dude to make a buck i might do it. inthe older cars with the dino oil that crud would be black in three months. with the newer cars with the tighter tollerences in the engine and the use of symthetic oils many manufacturers are saying 10k miles to the first oil change. chevy and mercedes i know for sure. and i bet many more are following suit. even my motorcycle is 6k miles in the manual .

From : the other kevin in san diego skiddz at adelphia dot net

well gee i was only trying to give a quick overview not a detailed history. so when was the hemi first banned from racing by whom what was the last mopar banned from racing budd in the 50s essentially each automotive line at mopar; dodge chrysler desoto and imperial plymouth wasnt supposed to get one but did a year or so later had their own version of the hemi and few parts interchanged. of course this was a financial nightmare so in 1958 all hemis were dropped.... first hemi was chrysler in 51 then desoto in 52 and dodge in 53. plymouths first v-8 was 55 and it was a wedge not a hemi. plymouth didnt get a hemi until the 60s racing days. paul johnson .

From : joe smith

actually on my ram they made a nice ramp/funnel like piece just above the filter. its not perfect but at least when i drop the filter it lands on the ramp and all the oil that pours out and misses the bucket makes a much nicer puddle rather then a bunch of little puddles. so as i said before if all things being equal and amsoil only did one thing allow me to avoid many many many oil changes in my lifetime. im flat out sold! i know people are negative and post all the what ifs and the its this and its that. but do people really believe its junk in all seriousness take your user posting pointing out the flaws hat off for a second and think about it. i havent seen a negative from an amsoil user posted on this board. ive only seen a lot of folks who have never tried it telling me how bad it is. im going to take some time and search the rest of the boards for some negative reviews and see what i can come up with. i suspect it might be easy to find the old synthetic oil leaks like crazy posts but i think most folks know this is a function of the carbon and varnish that traditional oils create and thus drying out the seals. most synthetics are high detergent oils and clean these out and of course reveal bad seals and gaskets. can anyone tell me how to link other posts i would like to include any negatives that i find in another post. thanks dan fullname wrote on thu 23 sep 2004 000123 -0400 nospam.clare.nce@snyder.on.ca wrote on wed 22 sep 2004 170802 -0700 the other kevin in san diego skiddz *at* adelphia *dot* net wrote on wed 22 sep 2004 153915 gmt trey treydog90spam@hotmail.com wrote i usually park my truck over night before i crawl under it and let the oil all over my face and half the driveway. and then i always enjoy finding out the oil catch bucket is full from some other dipshit in my house that used it and didnt take it down and empty it at the recycler. tell me. why do they put the oil filter sideways i think i spend more on the clean up then the oil and filter! hehe i feel your pain. i live at the end of a cul-de-sac and have a constant breeze blowing perpendicular to my driveway. with my truck equipped with a 6 lift and big tires the oil pan is a couple feet in the air. without exception each time i drain the oil regardless of how high up i prop the drain pan the breeze blows the oil all over the friggin place. ive started laying down a 10x12 sheet of 4mil plastic and parking the truck on it when i change oil to catch the blowoff. drain and replace the filter takes less than 30 mins. prep and cleanup is well over an hour. hehe you need a drain valve in place of the drain plug with a threaded cap to prevent accidental oil loss. then you remove the plug slip on a chunk of hose and open the drain directing asll of the oil into a jug for disposal/recycling. could be wrong but i think hes referring to the strategic location most oil filters are in usually between a smoking hot exhaust manifold a few sharp metal edges placed at an odd angle with no clear line of sight down and so deep that you can only reach it by either disassembling 1/2 of the vehicle shrouding or burying your arm up to your shoulder inside the engine bay so that when you invariable burn your hand you also twist your shoulder scratch your back & bang your head trying to pull your arm back from the branding its getting. and then there is oil running all over the place and the filter slips and rolls down the driveway to the street. next purchace for the truck is going to be a filter relocation kit/ aux oil cooler. .

From : trey

oops caught myself first i hope think of the time you take to avoid getting flamed or caught saying something stupid which you know somebody will be kind enough to point out this is their life. i meant this is the life of the politician but upon further review it might be accurate for group readers/posters too not all but maybe one or two. yeah good point. maybe i should post all my potential wagers to the board first. that way ill never have to make a decision that the world doesnt get to criticize first. such is the nature of these boards and i dont mean for you to take it personally. it amazes me though that our politicians are able to keep up that same lifestyle of constant scrutiny tangent i know but just something that came to me while i was trying to politely respond to your post which would have saved me a round of golf. but in my defense ive probably saved enough money on oil changes and fuel economy to pick up the round anyway. dan the other kevin in san diego skiddz *at* adelphia *dot* net wrote in on wed 22 sep 2004 073227 gmt howling motor sports dan@howlinginc.com wrote well as you kindly pointed out i certainly dont have all the answers ; really just sharing my experiences and the knowledge ive gleaned from doing my own research. hard to believe some of the things ive seen absolutely but we arent talking about infinite motion here just a product that was designed to do something better. as i mentioned in a previous post i only started using amsoil to prove a friend wrong and show him he was nuts with his 35000 mile oil changes and no api certifications. from the oil analysiss ive seen from my own vehicles it turns out i owe my buddy a round of golf. i shared my experiences with some friends bought amsoil not from me and they saw similiar results. this was long before i became a dealer and actually what made me decide to become a dealer. so stick with your api im sure its served you well and its certainly not a bad way to go. as far as filters the recommended filter change is 12500 miles or 6 months i run about 35000 miles a year so i swap them fairly often and yup ive run over on them by a few thousand on occasion and the analysis was fine to continue using the oil. 5 quarts and a filter will run you about 50 or 60 bucks definitely not $1 a quart but $1 a quart doesnt get you to 35000 miles either. 7 billion lines of useless qutoed thread

From : colibri

on thu 23 sep 2004 000123 -0400 nospam.clare.nce@snyder.on.ca wrote on wed 22 sep 2004 170802 -0700 the other kevin in san diego skiddz *at* adelphia *dot* net wrote on wed 22 sep 2004 153915 gmt trey treydog90spam@hotmail.com wrote i usually park my truck over night before i crawl under it and let the oil all over my face and half the driveway. and then i always enjoy finding out the oil catch bucket is full from some other dipshit in my house that used it and didnt take it down and empty it at the recycler. tell me. why do they put the oil filter sideways i think i spend more on the clean up then the oil and filter! hehe i feel your pain. i live at the end of a cul-de-sac and have a constant breeze blowing perpendicular to my driveway. with my truck equipped with a 6 lift and big tires the oil pan is a couple feet in the air. without exception each time i drain the oil regardless of how high up i prop the drain pan the breeze blows the oil all over the friggin place. ive started laying down a 10x12 sheet of 4mil plastic and parking the truck on it when i change oil to catch the blowoff. drain and replace the filter takes less than 30 mins. prep and cleanup is well over an hour. hehe you need a drain valve in place of the drain plug with a threaded cap to prevent accidental oil loss. then you remove the plug slip on a chunk of hose and open the drain directing asll of the oil into a jug for disposal/recycling. could be wrong but i think hes referring to the strategic location most oil filters are in usually between a smoking hot exhaust manifold a few sharp metal edges placed at an odd angle with no clear line of sight down and so deep that you can only reach it by either disassembling 1/2 of the vehicle shrouding or burying your arm up to your shoulder inside the engine bay so that when you invariable burn your hand you also twist your shoulder scratch your back & bang your head trying to pull your arm back from the branding its getting. .

From : howling motor sports

miles wrote bob wrote i just purchased a flatbed trailer. dual axle brakes on one only. now i need a good brake controller. i want digital not inertia. i want quality without a lot of extra doo-dads. i have the factory tow package and i still have the controller pig tail from dodge. right now reese is looking pretty good. what have you used that youve like or dis-liked and wheres the best place to get it by far the most popular the past couple years is the prodigy by tekonsha. no leveling required set it up once and forget about it. very smooth braking. cheapest place to buy it is from http//www.rvwholesalers.com thanx miles excellent advice. i just put in an order for it from rjs. -- ..bob 1997 hd fxdwg - turbocharged! 2001 dodge dakota qc 5.9/4x4/3.92 1983 gmc jimmy - mountain beater 1966 mustang coupe - daily driver 1966 ffr cobra - ongoing project .

From : howling motor sports

i have a 2005 dodge grand caravan with uconnect. i also have a motorola v300 phone with a bluetooth adapter. i am not able to get the unit to sync up to the uconnect. how can i verify things are working what equipment do i need is this a campatable system thanks mc .

From : howling motor sports

we had a 98 grandcaravan with got totalled. we just recently got a 2005 to replace it. it is the slx . it has all kinds of electronic goodies gps cd changer auto rearview mirror etc.... one thing we over looked was the automatic headlights.... it does not have them! is there a way to add this even looking on www.dodge.com i can not find the option even available!! did the do away with this option is there a retro fit kit thanks mc .

From : howling motor sports

um wouldnt it have been cheaper and easier to just have the analysis done on your buddys oil . 222 289793 -9mdnaqkuzitwccrvn-qq@comcast.com tranch728 wrote i use a product called amsoil in my rig. 2003 dodge ram 1500 4.7l quad cab and in my wifes 2002 accord. i run my oil to 35000 miles with oil analysis and i have absolutely no problems. amsoil makes mobil 1 look like pine tar. you can check out the amsoil docs at www.howlingmotorsports.com there is a link on that site to check out the tests comparing amsoil to mobil 1 and castrol syntec etc... i dont know about the claims being made by amsoil and those using it. i dont say it isnt true i just have an issue with not changing oil for 35k miles. ive been driving and maintaining my cars for 30 years and its just very hard to break that 3k or 3 month oil change habit. im not on the amsoil is good or not good bandwagon but your statement its just very hard to break that 3k or 3 month oil change habit shows that the oil industry has succeeded in its purpose confuse the consumer into believing they must change their oil at 3k / 3 month intervals. after all this generates added revenue. im not blaming them though. if i could take advantage of someone elses ignorance not saying youre ignorant dude to make a buck i might do it. .

From : the other kevin in san diego skiddz at adelphia dot net

have a under the rail liner for above listed dodge 1500 pickup located in south jersey 40.00 tom .

From : Annonymous

yeah good point. maybe i should post all my potential wagers to the board first. that way ill never have to make a decision that the world doesnt get to criticize first. such is the nature of these boards and i dont mean for you to take it personally. it amazes me though that our politicians are able to keep up that same lifestyle of constant scrutiny think of the time you take to avoid getting flamed or caught saying something stupid which you know somebody will be kind enough to point out this is their life. tangent i know but just something that came to me while i was trying to politely respond to your post which would have saved me a round of golf. but in my defense ive probably saved enough money on oil changes and fuel economy to pick up the round anyway. dan the other kevin in san diego skiddz *at* adelphia *dot* net wrote in on wed 22 sep 2004 073227 gmt howling motor sports dan@howlinginc.com wrote well as you kindly pointed out i certainly dont have all the answers ; really just sharing my experiences and the knowledge ive gleaned from doing my own research. hard to believe some of the things ive seen absolutely but we arent talking about infinite motion here just a product that was designed to do something better. as i mentione

From : fullname

fullname wrote on thu 23 sep 2004 000123 -0400 nospam.clare.nce@snyder.on.ca wrote on wed 22 sep 2004 170802 -0700 the other kevin in san diego skiddz *at* adelphia *dot* net wrote on wed 22 sep 2004 153915 gmt trey treydog90spam@hotmail.com wrote i usually park my truck over night before i crawl under it and let the oil all over my face and half the driveway. and then i always enjoy finding out the oil catch bucket is full from some other dipshit in my house that used it and didnt take it down and empty it at the recycler. tell me. why do they put the oil filter sideways i think i spend more on the clean up then the oil and filter! hehe i feel your pain. i live at the end of a cul-de-sac and have a constant breeze blowing perpendicular to my driveway. with my truck equipped with a 6 lift and big tires the oil pan is a couple feet in the air. without exception each time i drain the oil regardless of how high up i prop the drain pan the breeze blows the oil all over the friggin place. ive started laying down a 10x12 sheet of 4mil plastic and parking the truck on it when i change oil to catch the blowoff. drain and replace the filter takes less than 30 mins. prep and cleanup is well over an hour. hehe you need a drain valve in place of the drain plug with a threaded cap to prevent accidental oil loss. then you remove the plug slip on a chunk of hose and open the drain directing asll of the oil into a jug for disposal/recycling. could be wrong but i think hes referring to the strategic location most oil filters are in usually between a smoking hot exhaust manifold a few sharp metal edges placed at an odd angle with no clear line of sight down and so deep that you can only reach it by either disassembling 1/2 of the vehicle shrouding or burying your arm up to your shoulder inside the engine bay so that when you invariable burn your hand you also twist your shoulder scratch your back & bang your head trying to pull your arm back from the branding its getting. and then there is oil running all over the place and the filter slips and rolls down the driveway to the street. next purchace for the truck is going to be a filter relocation kit/ aux oil cooler. .

From : stephen young

howling motor sports wrote im curious as to why you would never buy a quality oil. that isnt what he wrote. ...not that i would ever buy it...i never pay more than about $1 a quart for oil... a case of valvoline can be bought for $18 a $7 rebate comes back and it costs around $0.90 per quart. .

From : david kelly

thanks to everyone. ijust spoke to a dealer and negotiated a price of $400 total including taxes to be paid in cash. they initially wanted $440 plus tax. i i have line-x too. however i really dont think there is much difference between line-x and rihno liner. go with which ever dealer is closer. if they are both close then go for price or who has better customer service. and get the bed rails done! i did not get the line-x the previous owner did the bed rails were not done and they are looking pretty sad. mgg wrote youll most likely get a lot of conflicting opinions on this one. for a number of reasons i chose linex for the bed of my 03. so far i like the durability but the nice shiny speckled look when first sprayed on is gone. i use an armor all type protectant on the rails to at least make that portion look good. other than that i have no complaints and i have put many different loads in the bed. the stuff is good! any suggestions i .

From : howling motor sports

kimmell@frontiernet.net tony kimmell wrote i use mobil-1 for the simple fact that i can go down to the local parts store and buy it off the shelf. its also the only true pao-base synthetic oil that can be bought retail. castrol syntec penzoil synthetic and all the other retail brands are not true synthetics. i also wont use any products made by those companies simply because of their knowingly-misleading use of the term synthetic. once upon a time what tony says was true. when mobil-1 introduced supersyn their product description got re-worded to to meet the demanding requirements of todays specifications and our customers expectations mobil 1 uses high-performance fluids including polyalphaolefins paos along with a proprietary system of additives. mobil-1 is careful in saying high performance fluids rather than group-iii. and is also careful to say pao which is what you were looking for. the customers expectations is price. in the past trisynthetic base was pao not high performance fluids including pao. this all started when mobil challenged castrols use of group-iiis and lost in binding arbitration. i agree with others that amsoil the company is flakey. their dealer program attracts flakes. their lifetime oil change program is adventurous but misguided at least the one of 1988. to amsoils credit they too have a group-iii synthetic but do not hide the fact in shame. of course according to the amsoil website amsoil group-iii is superior to all other group-iii but not to their own pao and ester products. i have amsoil shock/fork oil in my dirtbike forks and am very happy with the results vs the 5 other brands i used the past 2 years. others are very happy using their 2-stroke premix oil i ride 4-stroke. in the cases of fork oil and 2-stroke oil these are applications with life cycles. if the product doesnt work then it shows up quickly. .

From : scott m

tom it has been a week now and the light is still on. i drive the truck almost daily and several times on some days. i would think that it should be out by now. what could be another cause of the p0456 code should i take it to the dealers service dept. dddd ok thanks a lot. i have cycled it a couple of times after taking the gas i mis-stated that a bit... its a full ignition cycle - as in on start run off. just cycling the ignition key a few times wont do it. give it a few days of normal driving and see if it goes out. .

From : colibri

hi all anyone ever hear of this problem i just picked up the sweetest 96 dakota club cab with a real nice leer canopy. no problems i even hassled the dealer until he replaced the front brakes before i bought it. so then im driving home on the freeway and above 75mph i hear this crazy vibrating moaning/groaning sound. i knew it wasnt a mechanical noise because it was just too resonant. at first i figured it was harmonics from the wind beating between cab & canopy. but then i put a hand on the drivers side window and it was vibrating like the reed in a woodwind instrument. as soon as i cracked the window it went away. put it back up and at speeds above 75 this is l.a. after all - if the freeway is clear people are known to do 90 the window hums like the paper in a kazoo. any ideas on a fix the window channel felt is in great shape and the power window regulator seems to be pushing the window all the way up. no sounds of wind leaking thru just a crazy resonance with the wind. also im selling the leer canopy. its white and will fit a short-bed or a club cab model. $150 pick it up in the l.a. area. email me at patbsutton@hotmail.com .

From : tony kimmell

take a look in the farmtek catalog they sell a polymax material that is made like corrugated cardboard. i used it to line the roof and walls of a clearspan building. with a little scuffing it holds paint well. https//www.farmtekcatalog.com/lgdisplay.cfmpagenumber=67 http//www.farmtek.com/ -- steve build a knockdown frame and cover it with camo fabric. budd grace chemical is where i used to get it. not sure if theyre still around... where are you & what do you have in mind paul im building an octagonal deer blind. 6 foot high x 2 x 2 x 4 x22 and 2 thick. all ive been able to find so far is a 3 x 3 piece. it would cost a fortune at that rate. im in the dallas/fort worth area. -- moparman---remove clothes to reply! --scud coordinates 32.61204 north 96.92993 west-- -----= posted via feeds.com uncensored usenet =----- http//www.feeds.com - the #1 group service in the world! -----== over 100000 groups - 19 different servers! =----- .

From : howling motor sports

the van stalls for no apperant reason. it will stall while doing 50 kms or coming to a stop...nothing has been looked at yet. it will start up again right away amd this only seems too happen when the engine is fully warmed up. it has a slight diesel probelm that we know of and we also know that the rad fan does not kik in at high temps. btw while were at it what are the common problems with the electric fans on these .

From : c e white

theres no doubt in my mind that amsoil is some good stuff. i know people who use it and have had good results with their oil analysis. i use mobil-1 for the simple fact that i can go down to the local parts store and buy it off the shelf. its also the only true pao-base synthetic oil that can be bought retail. castrol syntec penzoil synthetic and all the other retail brands are not true synthetics. i also wont use any products made by those companies simply because of their knowingly-misleading use of the term synthetic. i run mobil-1 with ac-delco or wix filters on a 6000 mile change interval. i could run it up to 10000 miles or more but this way i change the oil and rotate the tires at the same time. if amsoil would sell their products over the counter then i might be inclined to try them but im not going to go out of my way to find a dealer just to change my oil. i dont really believe that amsoil offers anything that mobil-1 doesnt. ive seen oil analysis on both brands and theres not enough difference to justify paying the higher amsoil price. ive run mobil-1 to 15000 miles in a vehicle before and an oil analysis showed that it was still perfectly capable of staying in my crankcase but for the $25.00 cost of an oil change i decided against it. like i said before amsoil is a good product... but its not so much b

From : howling motor sports

dan ===in line.==== scott glad to hear youll never buy ;- so i can give you the straight scoop. i can only answer your question about api based on what ive read as amsoil obvioulsy doesnt ask my opinion about these things. this is my understanding of it. the api certification process has two requirements that amsoil has chosen not to adhere to. one is the process is extraordinarly expensive 300-500 thousand dollars per product. second being that the formula for the oil must be disclosed amsoil is essentially intellectual property and the general consensus seems to be revealing the formulas to the public would not be a prudent action at this point. i find it interesting though about the great debate over api certification. one of the biggest misnomers i have seen is api equals warranty coverage and this is in noway true. api is simply a standard for oils to help protect the consumer from buying vegetable oil for their engines i guess though your owners manual might say something like should be used or recommended most will not say required. the bottom line is in the event of a failure the manufacturer must prove that the failure was the fault of the engine oil via an analysis before they can deny the claim. as far as i am aware amsoil has never been the culprit in one of these circumstances furthermore in the event that amsoil did fail the engine amsoil warrantys that repair. email me for the warranty docs if you would like to review. ====im not sure where that came from but....i dont really care much about warranties myself. if i had an engine failure such as bearings under warranty i would tell fordor whoever i was using motorcraft oil and filters every 2k miles....; my thinking is this-as far as i know api is the only standard the industry has. it seams funny to me that amsoil wouldnt follow it....thats all. im curious as to why you would never buy a quality oil. === im not sure why you have to pay more than $1 a quart for quality oil in your opinion but i can tell you this though...i always check for the api letters before i buy it....why you might ask because its the only standard the industry goes by that i know of. its kind of like this-if i buy oil that says mobile one for cars or amsoil for cars on the bottle and theres no api on the label i might just be poring vegtable oil in my car for all i know; or if the api says f i know the oil has probably been sitting around for years. i just sold a case of oil and 4 filters to a friend yes at cost i dont push products on my friends and family to make money off of them. anyway we broke down the math on the purchase. assuming you change your oil every 3k miles with conventional oil then one case of amsoil and 2 filters per vehicle essentially nets out the equivalent of 16 or so 3k oil changes 8 per vehicle 24000 mile intervals 12000 mile filter changes. ===did you just say amsoil makes your filter go 12k miles without getting dirty im really not sure.please explain. if you do a cost analysis on the price of his purchase and divide it out by 16 it is basically the equivalent of about 10 bucks per 3k mile oil change. ===== im really not that good at math but- that amsoil must be really expensive. how much is it at your cost obviously there are some soft costs involved here as well such as going to your lube shop 16 times to get oil changes ==== one would think the tipical amsoil user would be doing there own oil changes... gas mileage improvement engine life envirmontal considerations etc... but the bottom line is from a cost point of view when fully understood youll find it is still a very competitively priced product. ======all the above is very hard to believe...but i guess if it says so on the internet it must be true; well enviromental considerations....i guess if your the type that dumps your used oil down the drain. i have no hopes of converting the world to amsoil and as you may have read in a post i only became a dealer after i used it myself and became a believer. ive already been dubbed a sales droid but the bottom line is i found a product that works very well for me that i am very impressed with. i could honestly care less if you guys on this board buy it or not. for my 30 bucks to become a dealer i can sell to my friends and family at cost. everybody who ive sold to so far loves the product and swears by it i know its anectodal but thats the feedback ive received. ==========that last paragraph is kinda hard to believe too after visiting your web site that is in you signature.... howlingmotorsports.com shouldnt it be buyamsoilhere.com i dont doubt that its a good product but i really dont know for sure. i guess ill have to try it someday right ; good luck with your sells.... regards dan benedix president howling enterprises inc www.howlingmotorsports.com wouldnt the more pertinent ques

From : trey

howling motor sports wrote its funny even when you qualify a response you get a little bit of a flame. i did say as far as i am aware amsoil has never been the culprit i am flattered that you assumed i knew every single claim and warranty request that amsoil has ever processed. as far as the warranty goes im not going to spend to many keystrokes trying to sway you. you obviously have your reasons for concern. all i can tell you is you will be putting your confidence in a company that has been in business for over 30 years and through all my reading i havent seen a complaint about the failure of the warranty not saying it hasnt happened i just havent seen it. there is an old post from amsoil corporate mentioning that their oil has never been the cause of a failure i think that post is from 1997 or 1998 so i cant really say what has happened in the meantime. but different strokes for different folks. here is the link to the warranty http//www.amsoil.com/warranty.htm. the amsoil warranty is worse than a scrap of paper or in this scraps of paper. it is virtually impossible to meet all their conditions for receiving compensation. also i love the part about following oem manufacturer requirements when many amsoil products dont meet those requirements because they are not api certified xl7500 products are api certified. i really dont know whether amsoil products are bad ok good or great. and frankly i dont care. amsoil directly or indirectly through loosely controlled marketers spew out a bunch of half baked nonsense that long ago convinced me that the company was not to be trusted. i am sure that many of the marketers are good honest people who believe in the product but there are also a bunch of half wits who repeat a bunch of half truths about amsoil products. ed .

From : howling motor sports

dodge usually places a sticker on the axle near the rear driver side wheel. this should tell you exactly what rear end you have dan benedix www.howlingmotorsports.com friends i have a 1996 pu 1500 v8 5.9l snow plow and tow package with the lsd and need to change the gear oil in the rear actually front too. i know these types of questions have been asked before but i want to make sure im doing it right and implore on your tolerance. is 80w 90 okay for the rear as i have some on hand i bought a bottle of the friction modifier from the dealer and its 4oz. it says to add 2 to 5% based on the gear lubricant weight terrible in math i am. on an earlier post someone stated to add 8oz. is this what my truck needs or is 4oz right what type of differentials do i have are they dana 44 and 9 1/4 for front/rear in the owners manual it says the fluid level for the front should be 1/4 inch below the plug and 5/8 below the plug on the back if i have the above differentials right. does it really need to be that exact on an unrelated note do i have the 231 transfercase im changing that fluid as well. thanks very much all. steve .

From : howling motor sports

it still has value i havent gotten to the point of paying to rid of it. i know there are some raider enthusiasts out there engine recently rebuilt and new tires and all receipts. the truck has a spun #3 bearing and needs some work. make an offer 360-668 1440 ask for dave what will you pay me to tow it away .

From : dan

hello youre arguing in a troll thread are you boys new to the internet stop crossposting please. this thread was only a troll. and that explains your behavior ok i seeeee..... .

From : howling motor sports

wouldnt the more pertinent question be why has amsoil been around so long and have such a loyal following it seems to me that we have become so programmed by the quick lubes for 3k changes that anything different must be wrong. i was a firm believer in this myself i tried amsoil just to tell my neighbor he was full of it and that there was no way this product could do what he said. to say i was skeptical is an understatement. what i learned through all my research was there seemed to be something to this stuff but still did not believe it. so i took the quasi scientific approach run the oil in my truck and then send it out for oil analysis it seemed logical and i would have something on paper to show my neighbor he was full of it and that his engines were going to seize if he kept running this stuff for 30k miles at a time. well 35000 miles and 3 filters later and some topping off after filter changes and multiple oil analysis having been done i was flat out wrong. in both my vehicles even at 35000 miles the oil analysis said the oil was fine to continue using. i had very very low metal levels and enjoyed better fuel economy the whole time. this was all done before i became an amsoil dealer and in fact this process is what encouraged me to become and amsoil dealer. so with that i respect your opinion and you make a very valid point. it is not api certified and if that is a major concern for you then obviously stick with the mobil 1 which is a fine oil in and of itself for me it was simply a matter of seeing is believing. dan benedix president howling enterprises inc www.howlingmotorsports.com another amsoil drone. has it been api certified yet i use a product called amsoil in my rig. 2003 dodge ram 1500 4.7l quad cab and in my wifes 2002 accord. i run my oil to 35000 miles with oil analysis and i have absolutely no problems. amsoil makes mobil 1 look like pine tar. you can check out the amsoil docs at www.howlingmotorsports.com there is a link on that site to check out the tests comparing amsoil to mobil 1 and castrol syntec etc... butch ricker wrote subject mobil 1 vs. valvoline is there really a difference between motor oils dodge says use 5-30 in the 4.7l dak; i used castrol in the neon but switched to valvoline when i got the truck i notice a lot of folks using mobil 1 at least in their posts and was curious to know why. j. mobil 1 has a larger opening allowing me to fill my truck 23% faster then the conventional oil bottle. ;- i have never actually tried valvoline synthetic. i need to change the oil in my truck soon i can try it out soo how it works... provided i can find the right viscosity that my truck likes. . 222 289750 guy3d.13146$n%3.1208674@twister.southeast.rr.com fair enough. my posts are from my personal use or research that i have done i.e. reading as many posts articles reports etc... on the products as i can absorb. have i had to file a warranty claim and share my results no. do i check my oil regularly with oil analysis yes of course i would be foolish to go against industry norms without having some sort of feedback for me to review. so far i have been happy with the results. do i think amsoil is a great product for me yup im very happy with it. thats what motivated me to become a dealer. but i understand everybody is different and whats important to me may not be to you. reality is in the majority of research i have done most people are happy with their amsoil implementation and others arent. such is life. i wont buy a nissan vehicle as i had two bad experiences in the past. that is my personal experience im sure there are people out there who would swear by their nissans and tell me im nuts for not owning one. so the tests and the anectodal stories are intriguing but for me i use this product and i am happy with the results. you can tell me its not api ceritfied all day long and the warranty is junk but that doesnt matter to me at this point as i am very comfortable taking my truck on 2000 or 3000 mile ride towing a load with amsoil as my lubricant. but again thats just me. to each his own. dan benedix www.howlingmotorsports.com howling motor sports wrote its funny even when you qualify a response you get a little bit of a flame. i did say as far as i am aware amsoil has never been the culprit i am flattered that you assumed i knew every single claim and warranty request that amsoil has ever processed. as far as the warranty goes im not going to spend to many keystrokes trying to sway you. you obviously have your reasons for concern. all i can tell you is you will be putting your confidence in a company that has been in business for over 30 years and through all my reading i havent seen a complaint about the failure of the warranty not saying it hasnt happened i just havent seen it. there is an old post from amsoil co

From : miles

its funny even when you qualify a response you get a little bit of a flame. i did say as far as i am aware amsoil has never been the culprit i am flattered that you assumed i knew every single claim and warranty request that amsoil has ever processed. as far as the warranty goes im not going to spend to many keystrokes trying to sway you. you obviously have your reasons for concern. all i can tell you is you will be putting your confidence in a company that has been in business for over 30 years and through all my reading i havent seen a complaint about the failure of the warranty not saying it hasnt happened i just havent seen it. there is an old post from amsoil corporate mentioning that their oil has never been the cause of a failure i think that post is from 1997 or 1998 so i cant really say what has happened in the meantime. but different strokes for different folks. here is the link to the warranty http//www.amsoil.com/warranty.htm. regards dan benedix www.howlingmotorsports.com howling motor sports wrote the bottom line is in the event of a failure the manufacturer must prove that the failure was the fault of the engine oil via an analysis before they can deny the claim. as far as i am aware amsoil has n

From : fullname

truth be told i dont have first hand experience with the royal purple in the diff as i have never used it i went with amsoil because i was satisfied with every other application i used it in. i can certainly speculate and say that any quality synthetic in your differential should make a difference to what extent i cant say. i can tell you this i have a 5 speed automatic transmission in my truck and ive found that ive been able to keep the truck in that top gear more often then i had been able to before at 19 mpg highway prior to the change you can imagine my fondness for staying in that fifth gear as long as possible! i could take the path of high gas prices and dependence on foreign oil and how if everybody switched to amsoil there would be less demand on the petroleum industry and in theory gas prices would drop but thats a different thought for a different forum. bottom line for me i put this stuff in my truck and it runs better i put it in my lawn mower and it revs higher and produces more power i put it in a little 4 banger accord and it quieted some ticky lifters and i noticed an increase in rpms and i get better gas mileage. so weather you are talking about 2-cycle or 4 cycle or gear lube amsoil is the logical choice for me. but ill openly admit my path to logic may not always be that logical. dan benedix www.howlingmotorsport

From : howling motor sports

on tue 21 sep 2004 042608 gmt howling motor sports sales@howlinginc.com wrote i have noticed a lot of traffic to my website regarding this post and wanted to clarify that i am and amsoil dealer and you will find information on purchasing amsoil on my website however it was not my intent to drive traffic via this post. i apologize if you feel misled in any way. i have not received any complaints but i figured i should clarify just in case somebody gets cranky about it. with that said i still stand by my previous statements. i only became an amsoil dealer after using the product in every piece of equipment i own from lawnmowers and leafblowers to my personal vehicles and found it to be the absolute best product i have ever used. a little known tip to increase fuel mileage is to replace your gear lube in the differential. this is a very easy process it takes about an hour with the right tools basically a wrench screwdriver some goof off and red insta gasket. i have noticed about an increase in fuel economy by over 4%. the gear lube is my most recent amsoil addition to my ram 1500. please feel free to email me for directions on how to change your lube. you dont need to buy amsoil from me to get the directions and i would recommend changing your gear lube at regular intervals if you use a conventional lube. this is a very overlooked regular maintenance item that can really reduce engine wear over time. thanks again dan benedix president howling enterprises inc www.howlingmotorsports.com snip where does amsoil stand in relation to royal purple http//www.royalpurple.com/techi/whyrpi.html ive seen a buildup on if i recall correctly hot rod tv that used royal purple in the engine manual tranny & rear end like you recommend & noticed an 8% improvement @ the dyno. years ago i tried the slick 50 routine with no measurable difference & the bosh platinum plugs with likewise no-measurable difference. btw both companies were great with their money back guarantees. i like the manufacturers & perhaps others in the group will stick to dino oil but im curious where amsoil stands on the continum between johnnys discount 10w30 oil and others such as mobil 1 0w50 or royal purples racing 41 mix for nitro-methane cars .

From : scott m

scott glad to hear youll never buy ;- so i can give you the straight scoop. i can only answer your question about api based on what ive read as amsoil obvioulsy doesnt ask my opinion about these things. this is my understanding of it. the api certification process has two requirements that amsoil has chosen not to adhere to. one is the process is extraordinarly expensive 300-500 thousand dollars per product. second being that the formula for the oil must be disclosed amsoil is essentially intellectual property and the general consensus seems to be revealing the formulas to the public would not be a prudent action at this point. i find it interesting though about the great debate over api certification. one of the biggest misnomers i have seen is api equals warranty coverage and this is in noway true. api is simply a standard for oils to help protect the consumer from buying vegetable oil for their engines i guess thoughyour owners manual might say something like should be used or recommended most will not say required. the bottom line is in the event of a failure the manufacturer must prove that the failure was the fault of the engine oil via an analysis before they can deny the claim. as far as i am aware amsoil has never been the culprit in one of these circumstances furthermore in the event that amsoil did fail the engine amsoil warrantys that repair. email me for the warranty docs if you would like to review. im curious as to why you would never buy a quality oil. i just sold a case of oil and 4 filters to a friend yes at cost i dont push products on my friends and family to make money off of them. anyway we broke down the math on the purchase. assuming you change your oil every 3k miles with conventional oil then one case of amsoil and 2 filters per vehicle essentially nets out the equivalent of 16 or so 3k oil changes 8 per vehicle 24000 mile intervals 12000 mile filter changes. if you do a cost analysis on the price of his purchase and divide it out by 16 it is basically the equivalent of about 10 bucks per 3k mile oil change. obviously there are some soft costs involved here as well such as going to your lube shop 16 times to get oil changes gas mileage improvement engine life envirmontal considerations etc... but the bottom line is from a cost point of view when fully understood youll find it is still a very competitively priced product. i have no hopes of converting the world to amsoil and as you may have read in a post i only became a dealer after i used it myself and became a believer. ive already been dubbed a sales droid but the bottom line is i found a product that works very well for me that i am very impressed with. i could honestly care less if you guys on this board buy it or not. for my 30 bucks to become a dealer i can sell to my friends and family at cost. everybody who ive sold to so far loves the product and swears by it i know its anectodal but thats the feedback ive received. regards dan benedix president howling enterprises inc www.howlingmotorsports.com wouldnt the more pertinent question be why has amsoil been around so long and have such a loyal following it seems to me that we have become so programmed by the quick lubes for 3k changes that anything different must be wrong. i was a firm believer in this myself i tried amsoil just to tell my neighbor he was full of it and that there was no way this product could do what he said. to say i was skeptical is an understatement. what i learned through all my research was there seemed to be something to this stuff but still did not believe it. so i took the quasi scientific approach run the oil in my truck and then send it out for oil analysis it seemed logical and i would have something on paper to show my neighbor he was full of it and that his engines were going to seize if he kept running this stuff for 30k miles at a time. well 35000 miles and 3 filters later and some topping off after filter changes and multiple oil analysis having been done i was flat out wrong. in both my vehicles even at 35000 miles the oil analysis said the oil was fine to continue using. i had very very low metal levels and enjoyed better fuel economy the whole time. this was all done before i became an amsoil dealer and in fact this process is what encouraged me to become and amsoil dealer. so with that i respect your opinion and you make a very valid point. it is not api certified and if that is a major concern for you then obviously stick with the mobil 1 which is a fine oil in and of itself for me it was simply a matter of seeing is believing. dan benedix president howling enterprises inc =========== dan it seams you know alot about amsoil. why isnt it api certified just curious......not that i would ever buy it...i never pay more than about $1 a quart for oil and change it at about 4 to 5k....never sean any problems including dirty engines.

From : dan

wouldnt the more pertinent question be why has amsoil been around so long and have such a loyal following it seems to me that we have become so programmed by the quick lubes for 3k changes that anything different must be wrong. i was a firm believer in this myself i tried amsoil just to tell my neighbor he was full of it and that there was no way this product could do what he said. to say i was skeptical is an understatement. what i learned through all my research was there seemed to be something to this stuff but still did not believe it. so i took the quasi scientific approach run the oil in my truck and then send it out for oil analysis it seemed logical and i would have something on paper to show my neighbor he was full of it and that his engines were going to seize if he kept running this stuff for 30k miles at a time. well 35000 miles and 3 filters later and some topping off after filter changes and multiple oil analysis having been done i was flat out wrong. in both my vehicles even at 35000 miles the oil analysis said the oil was fine to continue using. i had very very low metal levels and enjoyed better fuel economy the whole time. this was all done before i became an amsoil dealer and in fact this process is what encouraged me to become and amsoil dealer. so with that i respect your opinion and you make a very valid point. it is not api certified and if that is a major concern for you then obviously stick with the mobil 1 which is a fine oil in and of itself for me it was simply a matter of seeing is believing. dan benedix president howling enterprises inc =========== dan it seams you know alot about amsoil. why isnt it api certified just curious......not that i would ever buy it...i never pay more than about $1 a quart for oil and change it at about 4 to 5k....never sean any problems including dirty engines. --- outgoing mail is certified virus free. checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.760 / virus database 509 - release date 9/10/2004 .

From : fullname

wouldnt the more pertinent question be why has amsoil been around so long and have such a loyal following it seems to me that we have become so programmed by the quick lubes for 3k changes that anything different must be wrong. i was a firm believer in this myself i tried amsoil just to tell my neighbor he was full of it and that there was no way this product could do what he said. to say i was skeptical is an understatement. what i learned through all my research was there seemed to be something to this stuff but still did not believe it. so i took the quasi scientific approach run the oil in my truck and then send it out for oil analysis it seemed logical and i would have something on paper to show my neighbor he was full of it and that his engines were going to seize if he kept running this stuff for 30k miles at a time. well 35000 miles and 3 filters later and some topping off after filter changes and multiple oil analysis having been done i was flat out wrong. in both my vehicles even at 35000 miles the oil analysis said the oil was fine to continue using. i had very very low metal levels and enjoyed better fuel economy the whole time. this was all done before i became an amsoil dealer and in fact this process is what encouraged me to become and amsoil dealer. so with that i respect your opinion and you make a very valid point. it is not api certified and if that is a major concern for you then obviously stick with the mobil 1 which is a fine oil in and of itself for me it was simply a matter of seeing is believing. dan benedix president howling enterprises inc www.howlingmotorsports.com another amsoil drone. has it been api certified yet i use a product called amsoil in my rig. 2003 dodge ram 1500 4.7l quad cab and in my wifes 2002 accord. i run my oil to 35000 miles with oil analysis and i have absolutely no problems. amsoil makes mobil 1 look like pine tar. you can check out the amsoil docs at www.howlingmotorsports.com there is a link on that site to check out the tests comparing amsoil to mobil 1 and castrol syntec etc... butch ricker wrote subject mobil 1 vs. valvoline is there really a difference between motor oils dodge says use 5-30 in the 4.7l dak; i used castrol in the neon but switched to valvoline when i got the truck i notice a lot of folks using mobil 1 at least in their posts and was curious to know why. j. mobil 1 has a larger opening allowing me to fill my truck 23% faster then the conventional oil bottle. ;- i have never actually tried valvoline synthetic. i need to change the oil in my truck soon i can try it out soo how it works... provided i can find the right viscosity that my truck likes. .

From : tranch728

are thinking you cheap goddamned cocksucking motherfucking son of a bitch... fucking get the goddamned cocksucking motherfucking oil pan and fucking fix it right!!.. sure that is what i would do if money grew in the back yard! i swear by jb weld to fucking seal nonpressurised cracks and here is why. being a poor college student i had my tranny fucking go out on my cutlass. i fucking scraped the money together to replace it and did the job myself with some classmates. was in community college learning auto tech lo and behold while having someone else fucking help me one of the guys put the wrong size bolt in the tranny pan after changing the filter and it stripped. well we thought duh that all the other bolts would fucking hold in the tranny fluid and all would be good....wrong. being poor makes folks look at things in a whole different light. enter jb weld. after fucking loosing all the fluid in about 2 days we pulled the pan cleaned all the fluid away. fucking filled the whole with jb weld i know i know should fucking have used a heli-coil...but again...poor first semester of school and hadnt fucking learned much yet and drilled and tapped it. fucking put that sucker together and no leak...had the car for the next two years with no problems. so i would fucking clean it and fucking stick some jb weld on there and fucking see if that works. god fucking damn! god after reading that i cant fucking believe i did stuff like that to get by back then.....stuff that i can fucking afford to do different today. but i would fucking go with the new pan if at all possible. eightupman any change your own oil next time ; why dont ya f*%k*%g c*#^s%^@ing tell us how you fu@^#ng really motherfu*&#ng feel. i can see the jb weld company banging down your door to do a commercial touting the uses and greatness of their product lmao .

From : matt macchiarolo

on 17 sep 2004 173243 gmt mopar440@aol.comnet.org redneck tookover hell wrote hey russ.. im on my 3rd wife and want to stay married this time.. i wouldnt even try anything that lame.. lmao omg the third wife!!!!!!!!! damn you poor man!!!!!!! between living in cally fornia and her going to law school youd better behave!!!!!!!!!!! bfg on the bright side you did find one from nort duh kota so you have gotten wiser in your choice!!!!!!!!! beg im gonna need all 4 years to get ready for when she passes the bar... gotta readjust my opinion of attorneys and believe that there might be 1 good one... mac .

From : howling motor sports

thanks bob i have a service manual and there are a few rusted 54-56 dodge trucks not too far away. .

From : karl childers

i was told by a couple of mechanics a few years ago that the only differrence between conventional and synthetic oils is the difference between oil changes. every 5000km with conventional and every 10000km with synthetic. price is double as well. my silverado has 345000km on it and it has nothing but regular quaker state or valvoline and it works great. on fri 17 sep 2004 194511 gmt trey treydog90spam@hotmail.com wrote i read an article out of an old old popular science from the 50s or 60s. it was compairing conventionals to synthetics. i believe they performed the same offered similar protection however when they took the engines apart the oil pan and the valve covers had a lot of build up where the synthetic was all clean. mind you im sure they had different standards for oil 50 years ago im sure conventional oil is a lot better now. karl childers wrote hmm. i read an article in consumer reports about motor oil a few years back. they tested nyc cabs. they put synthetic in some regular oil in others. some they ran 7500 miles others 3000 and 5000 miles before changing the oil. there was no discernable difference in engine wear in any of them. i use chevron 5w-30 from costco. i think as long as it is api certified or whatever that little starburst signifies and you change it on time it doesnt make much difference. i change mine every 5k. easier to remember. my 2 cents your mileage may vary. subject mobil 1 vs. valvoline is there really a difference between motor oils dodge says use 5-30 in the 4.7l dak; i used castrol in the neon but switched to valvoline when i got the truck i notice a lot of folks using mobil 1 at least in their posts and was curious to know why. j. .

From : sgtsilicon

interesting. i dont have a dodge 1500. i do have a 97 chevy 1500 and a 04 dodge 2500 ho ctd with the six speed. the 2500 is the best for towing my heavily loaded horse trailer. the 1500 is smoother accelerates harder automatic trans handles better independent front vs. solid axel has a lot better ride has better seats captains chairs doesnt need a block heater and gets the same mileage 17mpg. it is the better truck 90 percent of the time including towing our small utility trailer. the heavy duty is better for heavy duty towing. i have heard claims of the ho ctd getting the same mileage 20mpg as the older ctds but have yet to see one do it around here. they seem to have given up some mileage to get the extra torque and horsepower. both trucks are easy to get under and work on to me. be sure to remove your wheels and clean the rust off the hub in the first few thousand miles or you wont get the wheel off later during a flat tire change. dont get me wrong i do like the ctd but realistically i dont find it a better daily use vehicle than a 1/2 ton even one with bling bling wheels. van first is the cummins ho diesel. it is smooth as silk. the common rail has all but eliminated the typical diesel rattle of the earlier versions and it is much quieter because of that. the torque is phenomenal. it pulls as hard as you push the pedal at any speed. i have the 6 speed gear and the gear ratios are very close. 500 rpm it is almost impossible to generate any turbo boost in the lower gears because of the amount of time you are in them. consequently the truck pulls much harder in the higher gears than the lower. contributing to this is the huge intercooler. it is much larger than the aluminum radiator and it takes several seconds to pressurize. the engine comes standard with an electric block heater. if the option is selected only the electric cable is added. without trailer you regularly see mileage in the low 20s. next is the construction detail. the japanese have nothing on this truck. i have found no loose bolts and nuts no missing washers or rubber grommets. everything is tight and sound isolated. absolutely no rattles or squeaks no matter how rough the road. the steering is tight and precise. the brakes are huge and very effective much better than the 1500. when sitting high the lateral acceleration when traversing bumps is very tiring and annoying on the 1500 and even though you sit even higher on the 3500 that lateral acceleration is totally absent. the handling is also much better than the 1500. maybe it is because of the higher spring rates. it does ride hard but is not uncomfortable. it is very easy to slide it around like a rally car with complete control even though this thing weighs in above 5500 lbs empty. its predictability is very surprising and it leaves the driver with a great deal of confidence. next it looks good. it has wonderfully balanced lines. it has a lovely shape with curves and no flat panels. it looks like a proper truck not garish and trendy like its competitors. lastly and most importantly it is maintainable. everything is accessible and unless you are 400 lbs you can slide under the truck and change the oil without jacking it up. there is nothing on this truck that should not be there and everything that should be there is. even the lug nuts have thrust bearings incorporated in them. steve .

From : kiel uyttenhove

budd cochran wrote i know youre using the old girl 331 just as an example and yes they did have a great hp to ci ratio but what would they rate that 331 at using the system they put in place in the early 70s ie gross vs net. jeff jeff ive seen 5 or 6 formulas for calculating net horsepower from the gross dyno horsepower figures and none seem to get it right. i guess theres too many variables involved. my personal estimate and its only a wild estimate would be about 270 - 280 hp. for the time it would still have been king of the hill. vbg the point i was trying to get across to moparman was that having 1 hp / cu.in. wasnt some magical figure to rest your laurels on. many crate wedge motors can do the same thing with just a carb intake and a set of street headers 360 / 380 hp mopar for example which means his hemi is only about average in hp / cu. in. by todays standards. he could get even more hp by swapping in a crate motor. budd i get you. ;- when i was a kid my dad came home with a 62 oldmobile f-85 jetfire. 215ci turbocharged aluminum v8 rated at 215hp. we well i was along for the ride took it to irwindale raceway and he ran low 14s on skinny little 14 bias belted tires. completely stock. i do remember him removing the before the muffler plate cut-out. that car used to surprise the hell out of the big chevys fords and others on whittier blvd. did he remember to keep the water / alcohol bottle filled even though the car was relatively lite i suspect it was making at least the advertized hp. my point being maybe the 331 was under-rated. jeff back in the 50s before the famous horsepower wars of the 60s most engines were rated pretty close to their dyno output but like ramworker pointed out they were tested under ideal conditions without any extra loads like water pump alternator exhaust etc. this pretty well eliminated the need to brag up the horsepower. .

From : kiel uyttenhove

on 26 sep 2004 233337 gmt joe avoidingspam@nospam.com wrote ok my turn now. youre a sorry old bitter angry codger whos living in the past and cant handle an opposing viewpoint without trashing the other person. you immediately dove right into the gutter with the personal insults and name-calling. so heres a bit of it back go foad you miserable piece of rotting shit. joe black 03 dakota 5.9 r/t cc calypso green 93 mustang 5.0 lx hatch with a few goodies it looks like you have him figured out. its good to see budd is still making new friends. oh course. how can he help it with that kind heart and winning personality. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : jeff

if you check the pump impeller after-market pump it will not look right compared to an oem pump. the space between the impeller and the pump body is probably too much. this dimension needs to be very close to the body to prevent water blow-by so to speak. this will allow the water presure to not be as high as it needs to be by allowing the water to just churn in the pump body and not pump out. one thing you can check without too much labor is to bypass your heater core if you can get to the inlet/outlet hoses. just remove them from the firewall and put in a piece or pipe copper steel whatever - its temporary for the test in to connect the two ends end-to-end together. this will eliminate the restriction of the heater core and valve. if this allows your guage to run at a lower temperature and the engine to run cooler - then your after-market pump needs to be replaced with a new oem pump. guess thats not my problem then for those whove been following my earlier saga i think its the water pump. it looks like its an aftermarket pump. i looked under the truck just now and saw a huge puddle. started the engine for about 45 seconds and saw h2o dripping out of the bottom... its passenger side mounted to the firewall so i guess it must be the waterpump even though it doesnt look like one. the water pump generally is bolted onto the front of the engine. im guessing the thing you see mounted on the firewall with coolant dripping out of it may be an aftermarket coolant heater that is tied into the heater hose. denny .

From : jeff

steve@carolinabreezehvac wrote holy fuck..are you meaning the temp gauge sender sniff .. sniff ................. i think you guys have been had. jerry .

From : 127 0 0 1 get rooted localhost

whats different about a hemi engine that make it a hemi is it the pistons -- smoove 91 gsxr 750 96 chevy c1500 and 94 suburban hated by many... confronted by none! pain is weakness leaving the body!!! its better to be judged by twelve than carried by six. www.myhooptie.com http//www.allpar.com/mopar/hemi/hemicntr.html -a|ex .