Mileage Question
From : azwiley1
Q: 2000 qc 4x4 at lwb i post 13-14mpg avg around town my over the road avg is 19.5 indicating about 22mpg while at cruise speeds of 65-70mph -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author hey all you cdt and other diesel owners what kind of fuel mileage do you average inner city and highway .
Replies:
From : tom lawrence
snowing like hell about a inch a hour. supposed to stop late this afternoon. you must have gotten this yesterday or was it south of you roy fur face sheeesch. i shaved last week.. it started snowing a little after noon and i started in last night at 11pm and just got finished. got about 5-6 inches with a bit of wind to make it interesting. was a nice snow to push if it hadnt been in foot and a half ridges along the down-wind side of every building. have i mentioned how much i like those revos have fun!! tired sleepy and grouchy fur face .
From : matthew warren
thanks for your reply matthew. im in the chicago area so rust is a problem here too. im hopeful the ball joint problems will be the only major problem i have. .
From : nosey
the dynojet measures horsepower but it has no idea what the rpm is please explain how you can tell the hosepower without knowing the rpm. stop thinking that hp is only torque times rpm divided by 5252. hp is a measure of work done over time. work is the moving of a load over a distance. the dynojet knows the load weight of the drum. it knows the distance the load is moved turned. it knows the time between samples. work done over time is power. its a simple calculation. 1 hp equals 33000 ft.lbs. of work per minute or 550 ft.lbs. of work per second a foot pound is the energy required to move 1 pound 1 foot. i saw your dyno sheets. quite impressive. what happened at 2650 rpm on sheet 2 i dunno... maybe some wheelspin/slippage those are also old dyno sheets before i put on twin turbos. i have to take the outer rear tires off to fit the truck on the dyno so my contact patch goes down by 50% .
From : max dodge
suddenly without warning budd cochran exclaimed 09-dec-05 302 am the main reason for the low/no cost erver is purely financial . . ..i havent much being on a fixed income. ill check t-bird out but im not a ford fan ; budd i understand been there done that couldnt afford the tshirt but thats $13 per year. if you spend a good bit of time on groups might be worth the investment. if youre not on them every day then perhaps not... i tried to go the free server route the only one i ever liked was individual.net. when it went not-free i tried again but most of the free servers either dont carry many groups or wont let you post so i ended up paying. good luck in your search. let us know what you end up with. jmc .
From : tom lawrence
adjust the bands particularly the front band. tighten the adjuster found on the drivers side above the shift levers to 72 in lbs and back off 2.5 turns. there is a lock nut so treat it accordingly. if that doesnt do it you may need to rebuild the trans. likely cause of the problem is simply old age. sitting as much as it must will kill a vehicle as much as using it. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author im posting this here cause i always get answers here. i do own a dodge truck but right now its running just fine. vehicle; 1980 lebaron 149000km; 318 49000km a904 tranie 71500km. generally the car runs great after new rebuilt carb with ported vacuum installed no rust no body damage slight vibration over 80 km another problem for another day. problem; tranie has a hard time shifting from 1st to 2nd if the speed is increased gradually while going up a steep hill . it tries to shift but just rattles. if the throttle is increased it shifts ok it just seems to do it at slow acceleration. on a flat road or on a medium steep hill at any rate of acceleration it shifts fine and you can barely notice the shift.
From : tom lawrence
ram 1500 that is not shifting. it wouldnt go forward or backwards when you put it in gear.there was a hard jerk before it stop going. any suggesting sounds like somethings broke... you have to give a little more info. than that.... auto or manual 2wd or 4wd anything hanging down from underneath the truck like a driveshaft what were you doing with/to the truck when it jerked hard and quit any symptoms leading up to this .
From : tom lawrence
i just bought a very high mileage 1997 dodge ram van 3500 with a wheelchair lift. early indications are the front ball joints are shot. what other problems am i most likely to encounter with this vehicle it was formerly owned by a hospital. a spokesman told me it had been serviced every 3000 miles. the engine runs good and the tranny sounds fine. thanks for any insights you can provide. .
From : max dodge
generally not an option on a $1000 alloy rim. i wasnt aware that american racing made a $1000 rim. i also wasnt aware the op had $1000 rims on his used truck. .
From : max dodge
yes and most people dont know that rpm has just as much to do with horsepower ratings as anything else. they throw around horsepower numbers like they mean something without the rpm. how many times have you heard someone brag about the horsepower their engine makes want to shut them up ask them what rpm that horsepower occurs at. most often they dont even know. so what good is that number horsepower tells you nothing of the engines performance without knowing the rpm. sorta works the same for torque thats why they usually pair each one with an rpm. im glad you got a chuckle from the f1 guys. i do think they are better engineers than comics though. i dont know what they say about the other tracks. if you find out let us know. pick anyone to quote if you like but please use credible sources. dont quote joe bling saying that the 22s that he put on his civic make 500 horsepower so it now goes 300 mph in the straights. i will consider any comments from any credible source that says a high horsepower number is more important than torque. no one claimed one was more important than the other except you. fact is the two cannot be separated nor can they happen without rpm and get anything done. those dynos still measure the engines torque and then convert it to kw. also i said no matter what engine and i should not have. i didnt intend that to include jet engines nuclear power plants or other exotics. those dynos measure output be it torque or kw. hydrualic dynos measure torque electric dynos measure kw output. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author max dodge wrote the original statement was that to move a load of x lbs. at y mph requires z hp. however that hp is created be it lotsa torque with low rpms or little torque and lotsa rpm matters not. somehow people are missing the fact that hp is the force with motion which indicates work done or capable of being done.. ill readily agree that its an arbitrary unit but that unit comes from a finite formula that can have the same result despite different numbers being plugged in. yes and most people dont know that rpm has just as much to do with horsepower ratings as anything else. they throw around horsepower numbers like they mean something without the rpm. how many times have you heard someone brag about the horsepower their engine makes want to shut them up ask them what rpm that horsepower occurs at. most often they dont even know. so what good is that number horsepower tells you nothing of the engines performance without knowing the rpm. i think the quotes from the f1 guys are comical. both refer to specific tracks... wonder what they say about other tracks where wide open running dictates that hp is the key im glad you got a chuckle from the f1 guys. i do think they are better engineers than comics though. i dont know what they say about the other tracks. if you find out let us know. pick anyone to quote if you like but please use credible sources. dont quote joe bling saying that the 22s that he put on his civic make 500 horsepower so it now goes 300 mph in the straights. i will consider any comments from any credible source that says a high horsepower number is more important than torque. also comical is the statement that no matter what engine you are looking at torque is the basis of the hp rating. no quite true. many dynos measure kw which can be converted directly to hp. most industrial engines have a kw rating and most overseas diesel manufacturers especially the europeans use kw ratings without hp being mentioned until it hits the us market. those dynos still measure the engines torque and then convert it to kw. also i said no matter what engine and i should not have. i didnt intend that to include jet engines nuclear power plants or other exotics. -- ken 8----- .
From : nosey
they dont have to be exactly the same max as it is impossible to ever get exactly the same conditions ever. to make the claims you are attemtping to make yes mr. wizard the conditions have to be the same. its called the scientific method. in this case all they need to be is close and since the nissan and even my ta were exposed to similar conditions for far longer they dont even have to be all that close. the nissan lines held up 8 years longer and the trans am lines held up 17 years longer so we are not talking a few months or even a year where you could say that the slight differences had any real effect on longevity. i think i see the problem here.... a trans am owner...... all ego and no hp. sorry maxi but this is just more of your senseless spin. please explain how arodynamics destroyed the lines or this magical mudd for that matter. maybe you use water in your brake lines since you now claim they are supposed to hold it but ill stick with brake fluid. vehicle aerodynamics on the underside are typically why dirt and water get into places they should not if the vehicle were sitting still. its not rocket science but it seems to have escaped you nonetheless. reading a new skill that you have yet to master their maxie i am not the only one with this problem as i am responding to someone else with the same year truck that has a much worse condition of it than my truck did. actually you said the same crap about the bad bearings in the 9 1/4 rear. yup because i. among many others dont believe that big business goes out of its way to rip off you and a select few others. good luck figuring out when the germans bombed pearl harbor. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author aerodynamics huh lol. yeah typically we drive through air. you probably drive through hot air. only when driving near you maxi. had both vehicles nissan much longer parked in the same driveway driven on the same roads under similar conditions. there is no way you can guarantee that both vehicles saw exactly the same conditions and thus cannot compare accurately the rust time from one to the other. you claim to know science perhaps you should observe the proper method. they dont have to be exactly the same max as it is impossible to ever get exactly the same conditions ever. in this case all they need to be is close and since the nissan and even my ta were exposed to similar conditions for far longer they dont even have to be all that close. the nissan lines held up 8 years longer and the trans am lines held up 17 years longer so we are not talking a few months or even a year where you could say that the slight differences had any real effect on longevity. actually the nissan went through worse since it delt with the salt covered slushy roads while the truck dealt with fresh snow most of the time with its over a foot ground clearence compared to the nissans few inches. lol so maybe the truck went through mud no more than the nissan would have went through since i dont off-road with this truck. the lines on both vehicles are subject to direct exposure in places and yet the nissans are still holding up just fine. care to try again i could use the laugh. nah you try again your claims dont hold water let alone rust in that water they are supposed to hold. sorry maxi but this is just more of your senseless spin. please explain how arodynamics destroyed the lines or this magical mudd for that matter. maybe you use water in your brake lines since you now claim they are supposed to hold it but ill stick with brake fluid. has to be quality control and an effort to rip off the customer..... doesnt have to be but usually is just like the sub-standard couplers on the steering shaft lower quality bearings in the 9 1/4 rear under designed ball joints on the dakota one piece in-tank pump and filter..... and the brake lines that mysteriously rusted only on your truck out of all those on here. reading a new skill that you have yet to master their maxie i am not the only one with this problem as i am responding to someone else with the same year truck that has a much worse condition of it than my truck did. actually you said the same crap about the bad bearings in the 9 1/4 rear. doesnt really matter tom most of us know you are full of shit somehow this just proves it. funny that has been said of you as well and your crap here proves it as well... aerodynamics lol! you are welcome to try and prove the two vehicles saw exactly the same conditions but we know they didnt. its impossible. no shit sherlock i never said otherwise but we are not talking a few months here we are talking years and many of them and in that case the conditions dont have to be exact only similar. -- if at first y
From : max dodge
suddenly without warning nosey exclaimed 08-dec-05 825 pm budd cochran wrote after reminding myself of the tremendous amount of . . . . . .uh knowledge in this group i decided it was best to ask those that wont fall out of their chairs laughing well wont fall too hard anyway over my question. im subscribed to tera for a erver but i need to find a reader that is simple duh! and gets even the latest posts before they are a week old. heck even google is faster than x in that respect. my cable internet provider doesnt have groups so im doing this song and dance to get to the group to bug you all. itried setting up oulook express but it cant connect to tera directly. thanks!!! budd try thunderbird. it has a bit of the oe look and feel to it but its much better. its also free. im only using oe right now because im a creature of habit. i have both set up on my computer but purely out of habit i clicked the oe icon. t-bird isnt a server so it has nothing to do with how fast the posts come in. i havent read the rest of this thread but i imagine someones recommended individual.net. if they have i second that. if they havent i recommend it. costs the equivalent of about $13 worth it. incidentally i use individual.net and thunderbird. t-bird isnt the best reader out there forte agent is pretty good but it isnt bad and being free its good value jmc .
From : nosey
gerald trevor wrote im looking for a used dodge. who do you folks recommend as an honest dealer in alabama georgia or north florida in the nw atlanta area ive had good luck with dallas dodge dallas ga for sales and marietta dodge for parts and service. -- ken .
From : nosey
budd cochran wrote after reminding myself of the tremendous amount of . . . . . .uh knowledge in this group i decided it was best to ask those that wont fall out of their chairs laughing well wont fall too hard anyway over my question. im subscribed to tera for a erver but i need to find a reader that is simple duh! and gets even the latest posts before they are a week old. heck even google is faster than x in that respect. my cable internet provider doesnt have groups so im doing this song and dance to get to the group to bug you all. itried setting up oulook express but it cant connect to tera directly. thanks!!! budd try thunderbird. it has a bit of the oe look and feel to it but its much better. its also free. im only using oe right now because im a creature of habit. i have both set up on my computer but purely out of habit i clicked the oe icon. -- ken .
From : mike simmons
im subscribed to tera for a erver but i need to find a reader that is simple duh! and gets even the latest posts before they are a week old. heck even google is faster than x in that respect. try x. its free and i have been using it for a couple of years and love it. try here to start ... http//www.slyck.com/x.php .
From : fmb
5e7lf.9749$n45.2647@read1..atl.earthlink.net tom lawrence tnloaswpraemnmcien5g@earthlink.net wrote 2wd or 4wd wasnt specified. the op should clarify. the responder should pay more attention to the subject line... oops... .
From : matthew warren
tom lawrence wrote its actually all about the torque. horsepower doesnt really do anything; just a mathmatical expression of torquerpm relationship. sigh i really do get tired of explaining this.... but oh what the hell... okay.... put a lug wrench on your wheels lug nut. stand on the wrench so youre tightening it. lotta torque youre applying to the lug nut right did it move hmmm.... thought it was all about the torque i agree with matthew. it is all about torque. torque is not limited to static measurements. torque can be applied in motion. being a mechanic i sure hope you know what a running torque is. horsepower cannot be measured without motion but torque can. horsepower cannot be measured at all without torque. how do you figure out horsepower numbers its torque x rpm / 5252. horsepower is nothing more than an expression of torque mathematically diluted by rpm. no matter what engine you measure the torque rating is the basis of the hp measurement. horsepower will *always* be lower than torque below 5252 rpm and *always* be higher than torque above 5252 rpm. horsepower is just a marketing gimmick dreamed up in the 1800s by james watt to sell steam engines. and you are still buying it. torque is the key to acceleration. acceleration is expressed as g force. the g force potential can be figured for any vehicle by knowing the thrust and weight of the vehicle. you can figure out what the thrust is by knowing the torque output of the engine the transmission and rear gearing and tire diameter. i can explain this in more detail if youd like me to. torque is the force exactly... its a force. just like you pushing on the side of your house. youre applying a force. the house isnt moving so youre accomplishing no work. torque can measured as both static and dynamic forces. that gets you moving spins your tires wins races tugs the 80k trailer etc. thats why a 250hp tractor trailer will do so much more than a 250hp rice burner. really i bet the 250hp ricer will whip up on that 250hp semi on a drag strip. why better power theres that hp thing again to weight ratio. that power to weight ratio you speak of is actually a thrust to weight ratio. weight and driveline efficiency is the key to this race. to further illustrate that its not all about the torque... a formula 1 racecars engine makes about 900hp yet have a torque peak of somewhere around 270ft.lbs. a 4.7l v8 in a ram makes more torque than that. so lets put the 4.7l in the f1 car and itll go even faster right peak ratings arent much of a factor here. f1 engines must be strong throughout the entire rpm range up to 18000 rpm. if the 4.7l v8 can produce more than 270 lbs/ft of torque through 18000 rpm then yes it would be faster. comments from the last f1 race winners engine team on torque and acceleration http//www.renaultf1.com/en/season/australia/index.php=tcm3-33758 fernando alonsos engine engineer remi taffin explains how to get the best out of the rs25 v10 in australia. melbourne is a tough circuit for engines its succession of straights broken up by slow corners mean good torque is more important than peak power in order to accelerate out of the slow and medium-speed corners. http//www.renaultf1.com/en/season/canada/index.php=tcm3-36828 remi taffin engine race engineer. a torquey engine is always a plus-point in canada as it allows the car to launch out of the slow corners when accompanied by good traction. gear ratios must also be studied carefully in order to be able to optimise the torque curve of the v10 around the lap. .
From : max dodge
so they dont make truly stainless steel exhaust systems that dont rust at all its physically impossible to produce an alloy of steel that never rusts. however - higher quality stainless steels will resist rusting better than lower quality ones. the goal of the automaker is to produce an exhaust system that doesnt rot through for the life of the vehicles warranty. given that the maximum lifetime of that warranty is 7 years or 100000 miles biggest service contract you can buy the fact that your 4-year-old exhaust is starting to show signs of surface rust and im sure thats all it is id say its perfectly normal. any idea why chrysler welds the stainless exhaust systems with regular welding material can stainless be welded with stainless al .
From : tom lawrence
the original statement was that to move a load of x lbs. at y mph requires z hp. however that hp is created be it lotsa torque with low rpms or little torque and lotsa rpm matters not. somehow people are missing the fact that hp is the force with motion which indicates work done or capable of being done.. ill readily agree that its an arbitrary unit but that unit comes from a finite formula that can have the same result despite different numbers being plugged in. i think the quotes from the f1 guys are comical. both refer to specific tracks... wonder what they say about other tracks where wide open running dictates that hp is the key also comical is the statement that no matter what engine you are looking at torque is the basis of the hp rating. no quite true. many dynos measure kw which can be converted directly to hp. most industrial engines have a kw rating and most overseas diesel manufacturers especially the europeans use kw ratings without hp being mentioned until it hits the us market. hp and kw are the same thing just different ways of expressing the ability to perform work over time.. mike -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and
From : nosey
i agree with matthew. it is all about torque. the original statement was that to move a load of x lbs. at y mph requires z hp. however that hp is created be it lotsa torque with low rpms or little torque and lotsa rpm matters not. .
From : tom lawrence
1999 dodge diesel slt good shape runs great looking for 15000.00197000 kms on it...let me know. kevin .
From : matthew warren
the oversize tires lug nuts use a special adapter that goes inside the lug nut american racing wheels to turn it off the lug. you mean one of the security-style things - looks like a star-shaped cookie cutter the problem is worse because it is not only stuck but now the lug nut has cracked so the adapter turns freely inside. what are my options got an air compressor and an air hammer they make short work of those lug nuts. a cold chisel and a hammer work too - just takes a little longer either way - get the chisel to bite into the edge of the lug nut and hammer it counter-clockwise. ive had to do this a few times in the past - usually when a buddy lost his special keyed adapter maybe i need an arc welder to just burn the lug and bolt off probably not a good idea... unless you could get a good ground somewhere on the axle. even then a mig would be better because you could just weld a regular nut to the end of the special one and back it off with a socket. .
From : matthew warren
sheesh and whats the torque flywheel i dunno... a little over 1100 at the wheels on the dyno but that was an inertial dyno. a load dyno would probably show more. those poor stock u-joints.... they havent broke yet *grin* .
From : tom lawrence
actually i found the page in the haynes manual that lists the torque and it does say 185 ft-lbs okay - my bad. i didnt know the daks used a sealed bearing/hub even with a 2wd. most 2wd vehicles use a set of servicable bearings - which get adjusted to much much lower torque values. .
From : tom lawrence
suddenly without warning mike simmons exclaimed 07-dec-05 151 am ill admit though i love my pickup im also a geek a geek that rides horses and loves her truck. am i weird or what http//www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/electronic/72fc/ anyway this seems kind of cool if ugly and big and was wondering what yall think of it. jmc do ya want it 130 bucks worth itd probably work ok and be a nice little play toy but i doubt id spend that much for it. thats alot of carrots.. denny my furry friend is known for his frugality thats a pc way of sayin that hes a cheap s.o.b!. hey if you think you would enjoy it go for it. its cheaper than heated leather seats ;^ mike well i kinda like the concept but not the execution. i like the idea that it can reset the check engine light without me having to reboot the truck jmc .
From : tom lawrence
i was looking around valvolines site and found this section on specific vehicles to consider when looking for old vehicles to restore. http//www.valvoline.com/carcare/articleviewer.asppg=res20050901fc&cccid=5&scccid=8 at the bottom if youre in the market for a full-size pick-up the dodge ram 1500 has a near-perfect reliability rating with only occasional problems with the abs wheel speed sensor and wiring jumperboth relatively cheap to repair. .
From : azwiley1
can anybody tell me exactly how chrysler pcms determine fuel mixture lean condition im running dodge durango 99 on propane and pcm consistently throws p0171 condition. propane computer autronic feeds emulated o2 sensor signal into vehicle pcm and allows me to set emulation parameters time low 0v and time high 1v. ive tried reducing time low to simulate richer mixture but to no effect. this has no effect on driveability btw... just would like to turn that damn check engine light off. it will always re-light after a couple of trips peter its not nice to cross post the computer/o2 sensor relationship is more of an on-off thing. 0 volts from the o2 sensor is lean 1 volt would be rich. if the computer sees 0 volts it will richen up the mixture if the o2 sensor still says 0 when the computer is at full rich it sets the check engine lamp and says its too lean. when working properly the voltage at the o2 sensor will swing from rich to lean and back to rich. al .
From : christopher thompson
god damn ask a simple question about mileage and this is what i get! glad to see the group is still as dysphunctional as ever! vbfg yeah right on the 2.5 x power. yeah.... right. i figure about 250hp at the crank for a typical 1/2-ton v8. im easily at 625hp at the flywheel so by my math thats two and a half times more. if the gas truck is geared properly it will pull just about as much as a oil burner will. so will a golf cart.... but its gonna be reeeaaaalllllyyyyyy ssssslllllooooowwwww it is all in the gearing. nope... its all in the horsepower. you want to move a load of x lbs. at y speed you need z hp. period. its actually all about the torque. horsepower doesnt really do anything; just a mathmatical expression of torquerpm relationship. torque is the force that gets you moving spins your tires wins races tugs the 80k trailer etc. thats why a 250hp tractor trailer will do so much more than a 250hp rice burner. .
From : tom lawrence
ill admit though i love my pickup im also a geek a geek that rides horses and loves her truck. am i weird or what http//www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/electronic/72fc/ anyway this seems kind of cool if ugly and big and was wondering what yall think of it. jmc do ya want it 130 bucks worth itd probably work ok and be a nice little play toy but i doubt id spend that much for it. thats alot of carrots.. denny my furry friend is known for his frugality thats a pc way of sayin that hes a cheap s.o.b!. hey if you think you would enjoy it go for it. its cheaper than heated leather seats ;^ mike .
From : christopher thompson
1986 ram b-250 8 cylinder with approx 70000 actual miles. rusting faded conversion van. ill sell it to ya cheap--if interested let me know. driven very infrequently/sporadically. lets say that ive put only 5--10 thousand miles more or less on it since the last oil change and the air filter replcement at least 2 years ago. please make me feel bad by speculating about what damage im doing to it. im kinduv reluctant to change the oil. why well many years ago i had this terrific 68 vw campmobile van. i dont know if the transmission oil was ever changed by its first owner while i did have it changed. well of course that cost me a transmission over a thousand bucks by having the fluid changed. yes i realize that engine oil changing and trans oil changing arent equal. nevertheless im ... superstitious if not foolishly dumb. if i put some garlic tablets down the oil thing will that ward-off something bad when i get it changed dont answer the above; but please tell me if theres something i should do maybe pour something into it before i get it changed such as stp or marvel mystery. i may have already done this some months ago magic marvel stuff--no that was in another junker i was driving though it didnt seem to help it. its a 1998 daewoo nubira presently sitting on my drive way with a very questionable trans-axel. .
From : max dodge
ill admit though i love my pickup im also a geek a geek that rides horses and loves her truck. am i weird or what http//www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/electronic/72fc/ anyway this seems kind of cool if ugly and big and was wondering what yall think of it. jmc do ya want it 130 bucks worth itd probably work ok and be a nice little play toy but i doubt id spend that much for it. thats alot of carrots.. denny .
From : roy
on tue 6 dec 2005 094423 -0500 mike t. hello@howyadoin.now wrote thicker oil protects the engine better but the default suggestion is almost always 5w30 or even 0w30 zerow30. this is because thinner oil offers slightly better fuel economy. so it makes sense for a car manufacturer to suggest lighter oil be used. hmmm... only the 4.7 of the 4 engines offered in the 2000 dakota carries a recommendation to use 5w30. most people dont keep their cars even if they bought it used long enough to wear out the engine. mopar people do. unfortunately the people working at quick change oil shops arent the brightest bulbs on the tree. what!! they all have their training certificates displayed! g they see the computer recommend 5w30 or read it on the oil cap and think that a customer must be nuts to want to put thicker oil in their car to protect the engine better. theres no point in mentioning the service manual recommendations either. the oil cap must know more than the people who wrote the service manual right interestingly i bought that oil cap as a replacement for the oem cap as part of the cure for the 4.7 filler neck condensation/milk problem. id be highly skeptical of the claim that simply changing from 5w30 to 10w40 caused an engine to get gummed up and ruined. i would expect that changing from 5w30 to 10w40 might at worst significantly lower that vehicles fuel economy. -dave are you sure you meant to say highly skeptical that seems more than a bit reserved considering the whole situation. .
From : christopher thompson
on mon 5 dec 2005 131126 -0500 cbhvac inactive@yahoo.com wrote dats kold hmm.. must get through some servers and not others mac please remove splinters before emailing .
From : thesnoman
so after sorting that out i looked at the authorization ticket and it said 5w30 for the oil change apparently computer generated based on the vehicle info and i said i wanted 10w30. snip the sticker on the oil cap says 5w30. yknow its best to use what they say. i know someone who used 10w40 and it gummed up her engine and ruined it. at this point i wasnt particularly upset although i was 3 hours into the deal. after all they did sell me what i wanted except for the oil thicker oil protects the engine better but the default suggestion is almost always 5w30 or even 0w30 zerow30. this is because thinner oil offers slightly better fuel economy. so it makes sense for a car manufacturer to suggest lighter oil be used. most people dont keep their cars even if they bought it used long enough to wear out the engine. if lighter oil is used the car manufacturer can claim that their cars get better fuel economy. but even the car manufacturers contradict themselves on recommended viscosity for oil. the oil cap on my car specifies 5w30. the only time 5w30 has ever been in the engine is possibly when the engine left the factory. but in the official service manual for that same exact vehicle 10w40 is recommended. in fact it specifically states that all viscosity levels from 5w30 on up to 20w50 can be used. yes 20w50. of course it has a chart showing outside temperature relating to various viscosity levels of oil. basically the hotter the temperature the thicker the oil should be used. but if you study the chart carefully you will see that either 10w30 or 10w40 can be used safely year-round. this is on a car with 5w30 on the oil cap. unfortunately the people working at quick change oil shops arent the brightest bulbs on the tree. they see the computer recommend 5w30 or read it on the oil cap and think that a customer must be nuts to want to put thicker oil in their car to protect the engine better. theres no point in mentioning the service manual recommendations either. the oil cap must know more than the people who wrote the service manual right id be highly skeptical of the claim that simply changing from 5w30 to 10w40 caused an engine to get gummed up and ruined. i would expect that changing from 5w30 to 10w40 might at worst significantly lower that vehicles fuel economy. -dave .
From : budd cochran
can anybody tell me exactly how chrysler pcms determine fuel mixture lean condition im running dodge durango 99 on propane and pcm consistently throws p0171 condition. propane computer autronic feeds emulated o2 sensor signal into vehicle pcm and allows me to set emulation parameters time low 0v and time high 1v. ive tried reducing time low to simulate richer mixture but to no effect. this has no effect on driveability btw... just would like to turn that damn check engine light off. it will always re-light after a couple of trips peter .
From : roy
hey all you cdt and other diesel owners what kind of fuel mileage do you average inner city and highway well it aint a diesel but my son is still getting about 21-22 mpg out of that old 79 318 i had . . . . . . . and blowin the doors off dem chubbies at the same time. vbg budd .
From : big al
roy wrote in our furry friends troubled past mac please remove splinters before emailing hey bro!! the pic didnt make it! yeah put it here! http//tinyurl.com/ .
From : tom lawrence
hey all you cdt and other diesel owners what kind of fuel mileage do you average inner city and highway 19.4 mpg or so as i travel about 80% freeway 68-70mph and 20% city 25-55mph not to mention the times i go 0mph. the heated seats allow for an extra .2mpg as im not shivering down the road. i also get 11-12 mpg when towing my arctic fox 24-5n 55-65 mph. 03 2500 ho 4wd lb 6sp laramie .
From : max dodge
2wd or 4wd wasnt specified. the op should clarify. the responder should pay more attention to the subject line... .
From : nosey
yup couldnt have anything to do with the dozens of other variables like conditions design aerodynamics under the truck etc. funny how my 95 lines in just as crappy weather have managed to hold out for over 100k with my just replacing the flex lines as a matter of pm rather than necessity. i think tbones truck just doesnt like him.... go figure. my 95 is just over 100k and are just fine but they have been very easy miles no salt from plowing snow no dirt and mud from pulling wagons out of the fields ect. you all have never seen a truck babied such as mine. g denny haulin your fat ass around.vbg roy i knew there was a reason you have an oil burner and me a gasser...... denny .
From : max dodge
had to do the same thing only 1 for me so far same year and less miles. funny how my 89 nissan still has its original steel lines and there just fine. i guess that its just another dc or at the time chrysler method of increasing profits at the customers expense. yup couldnt have anything to do with the dozens of other variables like conditions design aerodynamics under the truck etc. aerodynamics huh lol. had both vehicles nissan much longer parked in the same driveway driven on the same roads under similar conditions. actually the nissan went through worse since it delt with the salt covered slushy roads while the truck dealt with fresh snow most of the time with its over a foot ground clearence compared to the nissans few inches. the lines on both vehicles are subject to direct exposure in places and yet the nissans are still holding up just fine. care to try again i could use the laugh. has to be quality control and an effort to rip off the customer..... doesnt have to be but usually is just like the sub-standard couplers on the steering shaft lower quality bearings in the 9 1/4 rear under designed ball joints on the dakota one piece in-tank pump and filter..... -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : nosey
tbone wrote had to do the same thing only 1 for me so far same year and less miles. funny how my 89 nissan still has its original steel lines and there just fine. i guess that its just another dc or at the time chrysler method of increasing profits at the customers expense. ya dang greedy republican rich bastards huh hmm...my 93 nissan altimas brake lines leaked and had to be replaced. must have been a fluke eh politics aside of course it was greed. as for your brake lines are we talking about the solid lines or the rubber ones and please define leak. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .