Lower radiator hose heater
From : Annonymous
Q: on tue 14 dec 2004 091536 -0600 steve no@spam.thanks wrote nomen nescio wrote does anybody know the technical reason for the ball joint failure. material machining heat treatment design flaw what i have heard not yet seen a joint first-hand is that a running change was made from old-style steel-on-steel ball joints to a new design that had a polymer plastic barrier between the ball and socket. i will also add that ive seen aftermarket ball joints on cars completely unrelated to the durango/dakota wear out extremely fast in recent years. quality of parts has just gone into the toilet at an unbelievable rate over the past few years i think largely due to moving production to third-world cheap-labor countries. it would not surprise me if those kinds of crummy parts are now finding their way into oem supply lines as well as aftermarket. i will have to agree with you on this. the sad part is the customer has to pay top dollar for an authentic oem part which could be no more than a part that was manufactured by yung boi cheap labor. add the lame uaw into the assembly and the odds are slim if ya get one that doesnt break. bush says outsourcing is good. good for who .
Replies:
From : tbone
but its all pointless since the op hasnt informed us which model and engine hes dealing with for all we know its an early 87 mini van with a 2.6 which -did- have the voltage regulator internal to the alternator. hes posted here before asking alternator questions for his 87 dodge raider. .
From : budd cochran
well ya know thats what putting him in coventry meant but that didnt seem to work well. i dont know anymore. -- budd whats the difference between a bad golfer and a bad skydiver one goes whack darn and the other goes darn whack. ok ill be a good boy and shut up. no not shut up ignore. g roy aka p w -- budd whats the difference between a bad golfer and a bad skydiver one goes whack darn and the other goes darn whack. on fri 17 dec 2004 195407 gmt budd cochran mr-d150@citlinkspam.net wrote he is spouting considerable erroneous information based on his claimed electrical engineering degree and supposed experience. im just trying to educate him. budd you know better than that.. how can you explain or teach anything and expect it to be listened too when youre in someones face challenging them just chill budd.. youre a better person then that.. .
From : budd cochran
rotflmbo!!! whatever. you can whine and weasel all you want. you have been shown to be so full of crap your eyes are brown-shot. thermosiphon flow is not a high volume flow and i never said it was. i said it was a form of pumping. study your physics again. can you name a pumping action that has no moving parts and defies gravity the system the op asked about requires according to the manufacturers of the similar products i have used a flow thru the radiator for efficiency. all your pathetic little protests about you being right and my being wrong are shot to heck by that one little fact its designed for a return flow thru the radiator. whether you can admit it or not is like you irrelevant. it will not change the truth that you are wrong according to the manufacturers. -- budd whats the difference between a bad golfer and a bad skydiver one goes whack darn and the other goes darn whack. what keeps the hot flow and the cooler flow from mixing causing a restrictive turbulence and reduced efficiency besides the fact that you yourself admitted that if the temperature really did get up operating temperature the thermostat would open anyway and allow your dreaded flow to the radiator. the turbulence does occur to some degree and there is nothing wrong with that. you do not want it to be too efficient or like max said it would have a difficult time heating that large of a cross section of water. even full blown thermosiphon systems dont move water all that fast and the engine produces much more heat than that little 600 watt radiator hose heater. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : tbone
budd cochran wrote 12/16/04 248 p.m. second sentence states hes a mechanical and electrical engineer no it doesnt for christs sake. learn to read budd. whatever. fine. im just trying to prevent another t-bone in the group. with these kind of moronic statements you can kiss my ass. wake up and smell the coffee budd .......... just because i or no one else has said anything to you doesnt mean youre not the second biggest troll of a cry baby around here. while im at it if you think because no one has called you out with your stupid pissing contests with tbone that it means they support you actions then you are sadly fooling only yourself. another t-bone my ass........... only thing that comes close to that description would be you. if you had any sense at all you would understand what mac was really trying to tell you. jerry .
From : tbone
then you have a bad connection that could very well be a bad ground. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving i meant if we change the bulb it still doesnt work but the bulb is not burning out each time and i noticed when i go over really bumpy areas the lamp out light starts flashing... i also noticed that if i press the brake it stops flashing mike simmons wrote yabbut a bad ground in the lighting circuit will not increase the current draw thru the filament of the bulb. presumably the circuit has a zero resistance thru the ground thus zero resistance cannot be improved upon. what is likely happening is that there is a bad ground that intermittently and rapidly causes a power loss thru the circuit and cause the bulb to flicker. the resulting rapid thermal cycling of the filament will cause it to burn out more quickly. without knowing more about the problem that would be my best guess. i think the op just said the break light keeps going out not really identifying whether the bulb or fuse was blown each time or what. if the ground is near the bulb wouldnt/couldnt the ground cause a surge that would/could blow the bulb not hard for me to get in over my head on electrical components so im learning here. jerry jerry i assumed that op meant that the bulbs keep burning out else why the need to replace em as far as a ground near the bulb causing it to burn out no. consider that the voltage supply is 12vdc nominal max on the supply side of the circuit. the bulb filament introduces a resistance into the circuit. any ground intentional or not introduced downstream of the bulb will just complete the circuit causng the bulb to illuminate. unless something else is going on in the circuit that i am unaware of an unintentional ground cannot cause an overcurrnt condition causing the bulb to burn out. a poor ground on the other hand near the bulb i.e corroded socket can cause an overheating condition due to internal resistance i2r and cause a circuit failure. mike .
From : max340
i meant if we change the bulb it still doesnt work but the bulb is not burning out each time and i noticed when i go over really bumpy areas the lamp out light starts flashing... i also noticed that if i press the brake it stops flashing mike simmons wrote yabbut a bad ground in the lighting circuit will not increase the current draw thru the filament of the bulb. presumably the circuit has a zero resistance thru the ground thus zero resistance cannot be improved upon. what is likely happening is that there is a bad ground that intermittently and rapidly causes a power loss thru the circuit and cause the bulb to flicker. the resulting rapid thermal cycling of the filament will cause it to burn out more quickly. without knowing more about the problem that would be my best guess. i think the op just said the break light keeps going out not really identifying whether the bulb or fuse was blown each time or what. if the ground is near the bulb wouldnt/couldnt the ground cause a surge that would/could blow the bulb not hard for me to get in over my head on electrical components so im learning here. jerry jerry i assumed that op meant that the bulbs keep burning out else why the need to replace em as far as a ground near the bulb causing it to burn out no. consider that the voltage supply is 12vdc nominal max on the supply side of the circuit. the bulb filament introduces a resistance into the circuit. any ground intentional or not introduced downstream of the bulb will just complete the circuit causng the bulb to illuminate. unless something else is going on in the circuit that i am unaware of an unintentional ground cannot cause an overcurrnt condition causing the bulb to burn out. a poor ground on the other hand near the bulb i.e corroded socket can cause an overheating condition due to internal resistance i2r and cause a circuit failure. mike .
From : budd cochran
that will really be hard to do if it still has the mopar alternator and regulator . . the regulator usually black in color is on the firewall and has a two wire plug on it. now if its a gm single wire system i think they can be changed but ive not been into one in years. in this case it will be really hard to do since the voltage regulator is integrated in the pcm or as we called em back then sbec. that didnt happen until 92 87 will still have the firewall mounted separate regulator. hmmm... maybe my remembery isnt all that it should be..... damned alzheimers! coulda swore we switched over in the late 80s.... ;^ mike .
From : budd cochran
on fri 17 dec 2004 085745 -0700 nitpik bubba@mindspring.com wrote id check where the pump is wired into the trucks electrical circuit. sounds like it needs to move to another point closer to the battery if not right off the battery. also check the draw of the pump might be pulling too many amps. check the voltage coming off the alt. when the pump is activated make sure it stays at least around 12 volts or higher if it drops down below that and the pump is pulling normal current then your alternator needs to be checked out. i need to check but that battery doesnt sound like a really big one for the added load of the plow .. the plow pump should be running off the battery for the most part rather than the alternator thats why it should be hooked in close to the battery. the pump is wired directly off the battery posts. the alt. is the biggest chrysler makes for this truck. 160 amp the only time there is a large amp draw is if the plow is dead ended and held for 5+seconds. the draw doesnt seem to go over 35-50 amps normal usage but even that really draws the batt. guage down. if you use the plow a number of times without letting the guage come back to normal you will set the warning light off. dealer says all checks out ok. the only things i can think of are a weak battery or operator error! .
From : budd cochran
well durnit mike . . now ya got me thinking my haynes manual has that al-whatchamacallit. of course i could never have it . . . .i dont think . . . bg -- budd whats the difference between a bad golfer and a bad skydiver one goes whack darn and the other goes darn whack. that will really be hard to do if it still has the mopar alternator and regulator . . the regulator usually black in color is on the firewall and has a two wire plug on it. now if its a gm single wire system i think they can be changed but ive not been into one in years. in this case it will be really hard to do since the voltage regulator is integrated in the pcm or as we called em back then sbec. that didnt happen until 92 87 will still have the firewall mounted separate regulator. hmmm... maybe my remembery isnt all that it should be..... damned alzheimers! coulda swore we switched over in the late 80s.... ;^ mike .
From : budd cochran
what keeps the hot flow and the cooler flow from mixing causing a restrictive turbulence and reduced efficiency besides the fact that you yourself admitted that if the temperature really did get up operating temperature the thermostat would open anyway and allow your dreaded flow to the radiator. budd aha a very good point and well beyond his scope of knowledge but then sos a box of crayons. to be honest ive never seen a coolant heater in a 2 hose when that hose is critical to keep clear since its directly to or from the radiator. they in fact do exist http//www.burnsindustrial.com/nwprod83.pdf second its unlikely a block heater would use the radiator hose due to the amount of energy it would take to heat that cross section of water. which is why i keep telling both you and budd that they dont want the thermostat open because it would or could cause the flow to move to fast for proper heating. third it would be silly to put it there since it means drawing or pushing water through the component most likely to cool the water thats just been heated. if installed properly they do not push any water thru the radiator as i keep trying to get through to budd. hot water rises and the cold water will flow back down the same hose to replace it. little to no water will come from the radiator if it is installed properly close to the pump input. however given all the above it means tommy boy is barking up a tree with no quarry amongst the branches. what in the hell are you babbling about it is not my heater and your buddy budd also claims to have owned and used one and as the link above shows they do exist so i guess that as usual your reasoning is incorrect. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : budd cochran
just finished a quick perusal of my old chilton manual and from what i can see in the pictures most v-8 engines had the bypass cast internally to the waterpump and engine block with the la series being the primary exception but thats because the block was originally designed for hemi then later polyspherical and finally inline valve heads which precluded the bypass being made into the block. reasons for the differences aside they still connect to the same port or chamber if you will and that is done for a reason. if you dont know what that reason is then like i said before that says it all. spin all you want the post by you makes you out a liar. i proved you wrong now admit it. on some early hemis the bypass was cast to connect into a separate coolant manifold bolted to the heads. boy you really blew it. sorry budd but you are just arguing semantics here. they are still all in parallel any way that you want to rout it. its not semantics toidi its physical design. those engines do not have the chamber you claim just a much smaller passageway in the manifold. budd .
From : tbone
i was not talking about this specific problem. i was responding to dicks more generalized comment that the american production worker should hold no blame for anything. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving this is an engineering problem... what did the assembly worker do to cause this rec.bicycles.marketplace .
From : budd cochran
on fri 17 dec 2004 034709 gmt budd cochran mr-d150@citlinkspam.net wrote sorry jerry but his lack of knowledge on many points does not impress me. youre not having a good day budd.. you take your meds .
From : tbone
aha a very good point and well beyond his scope of knowledge but then sos a box of crayons. to be honest ive never seen a coolant heater in a 2 hose when that hose is critical to keep clear since its directly to or from the radiator. they in fact do exist http//www.burnsindustrial.com/nwprod83.pdf second its unlikely a block heater would use the radiator hose due to the amount of energy it would take to heat that cross section of water. which is why i keep telling both you and budd that they dont want the thermostat open because it would or could cause the flow to move to fast for proper heating. third it would be silly to put it there since it means drawing or pushing water through the component most likely to cool the water thats just been heated. if installed properly they do not push any water thru the radiator as i keep trying to get through to budd. hot water rises and the cold water will flow back down the same hose to replace it. little to no water will come from the radiator if it is installed properly close to the pump input. however given all the above it means tommy boy is barking up a tree with no quarry amongst the branches. what in the hell are you babbling about it is not my heater and your buddy budd also claims to have owned and used one and as the link above shows they do exist so i guess that as usual your reasoning is incorrect. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : theguy
from mac davis they told her that the alternator was bad.. it was putting out about 13.5 volts and should be putting out at least 14.5... wouldnt 14.5 burn up the battery i am no electrical engineer but 13.5 volts should have been enough output under a load condition to sustain a charge in the batt. 14.5 would be the high end of alt. output and not damage the batt. 13.8 is usually normal as far as i know. - hope this helps. hank .
From : tbone
a v-8 does have secondary vibrations which cause the harmonic torsions in the crank. you should have studied automotive engineering if you want to argue engine design. btw ford screwed around with what would work until it didnt . .really sound engineering. for the other readers of this thread. budd like many misunderstands the difference between tortional vibration and secondary vibration. tortional vibration is rotational by definition. it is the coiling and uncoiling of the crankshaft like a spring while rotating. this is caused by the crank wanting to accellerate at clyinder ignition time and decelerating upon compression. the resonance point is where the torsional deflection and reflection speed is at the same frequency as crank speed. this creates a sypathetic pumping action on the crankshaft that causes metal fatigue and ultimately fracture. a harmonic balancer does not eliminate this tendency. instead it shifts the point of resonance outside of the operating speed of the engine. on the other hand secondary vibration is a vibration that occurs at 1/2 or double the crankshaft speed by definition. these vibrations are caused by the reciprocating components in an engine. in the case of v6 and inline 3 cylinder engines there are 3 clyinders operating in a common plane in which 2 pistons are traveling in one direction and 1 piston is traveling in the other direction which is a clear imbalance. this imbalance imparts a rocking motion to the whole engine assembly at 1/2 crank speed. only the use of a balance shaft running at 1/2 crank speed which is out of balance in the opposite direction will cancel out this vibration to the external observer. however the stresses of these vibrations still exist internally to the engine assembly and take their toll. a v8 is inherently balanced because 2 pistons are moving in one direction within the reciprocating plane and 2 others are moving in the opposite direction in a balanced state. i hope this tidbit of automotive engineering clears up this misunderstanding. steve .
From : budd cochran
on fri 17 dec 2004 144131 gmt budd cochran mr-d150@citlinkspam.net wrote im having a great day but steve apparently knows less than he claims if he doesnt know the truth about the slant sixes. also much of his other info is dead wrong or just plain biased. v-8s for example have an inherent problem with getting a dead smooth idle...the firing order itself. he for some reason overlooks that little fact. and as you know i am never impressed by people that wave degrees around like a boy hawking papers. show me real knowledge of the topic and ill listen. steve didnt. merry christmas. its only a group budd... dont take it so seriously.. not every comment is a personal attack on you.. try to relax and enjoy it for what it is.. a bunch of guys bsing and sharing info.. .
From : tbone
it is still in parallel budd semantics aside. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving your claim was that all bypasses went into the intake in parallel to the thermostat. on the slant sixes it goes into the head in parallel. you are wrong. pay up or shut up. -- budd whats the difference between a bad golfer and a bad skydiver one goes whack darn and the other goes darn whack. really budd perhaps you had better look again. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving slant sixes. -- budd whats the difference between a bad golfer and a bad skydiver one goes whack darn and the other goes darn whack. once again you show your ignorance. all three are in parallel since they all leave from the same place on the intake and all return directly to the water pump. you do know the definition of parallel dont you that depends on design and varies from vehicle to vehicle. really name one modern vehicle where this is not the case. better yet name one chrysler product where this is the casr since the op is talking about a dodge. the only thing the bypass is directly in parallel with is the thermostat. the bypass hose is not to provide an alternate route for coolant to bypass the heater core it is to provide for circulation when the thermostat is closed. no shit sherlock. try telling that to your buddy budd. but the heater circuit is still in parallel with the radiator and the bypass. sorry to dissapoint you moron ooops the name calling in leiu of facts defense. you are done. lol no but you are and once again you had better talk to your buddy budd. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : tbone
hmmm then my haynes manual is really wrong . . im going back to chiltons. thanks mike. merry christmas -- budd whats the difference between a bad golfer and a bad skydiver one goes whack darn and the other goes darn whack. that will really be hard to do if it still has the mopar alternator and regulator . . the regulator usually black in color is on the firewall and has a two wire plug on it. now if its a gm single wire system i think they can be changed but ive not been into one in years. in this case it will be really hard to do since the voltage regulator is integrated in the pcm or as we called em back then sbec. mike -- budd whats the difference between a bad golfer and a bad skydiver one goes whack darn and the other goes darn whack. is it possible to replace the internal voltage regulator in the alternator or must i just replace the alternator too thanks lee .
From : budd cochran
just finished a quick perusal of my old chilton manual and from what i can see in the pictures most v-8 engines had the bypass cast internally to the waterpump and engine block with the la series being the primary exception but thats because the block was originally designed for hemi then later polyspherical and finally inline valve heads which precluded the bypass being made into the block. on some early hemis the bypass was cast to connect into a separate coolant manifold bolted to the heads. boy you really blew it. -- budd whats the difference between a bad golfer and a bad skydiver one goes whack darn and the other goes darn whack. really budd perhaps you had better look again. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving slant sixes. -- budd whats the difference between a bad golfer and a bad skydiver one goes whack darn and the other goes darn whack. once again you show your ignorance. all three are in parallel since they all leave from the same place on the intake and all return directly to the water pump. you do know the definition of parallel dont you that depends on design and varies from vehicle to vehicle. really name one modern vehicle where this is not the case. better yet name one chrysler product where this is the casr since the op is talking about a dodge. the only thing the bypass is directly in parallel with is the thermostat. the bypass hose is not to provide an alternate route for coolant to bypass the heater core it is to provide for circulation when the thermostat is closed. no shit sherlock. try telling that to your buddy budd. but the heater circuit is still in parallel with the radiator and the bypass. sorry to dissapoint you moron ooops the name calling in leiu of facts defense. you are done. lol no but you are and once again you had better talk to your buddy budd. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : budd cochran
please list those many points and indicate where hes wrong. budd cochran wrote sorry jerry but his lack of knowledge on many points does not impress me. -- budd whats the difference between a bad golfer and a bad skydiver one goes whack darn and the other goes darn whack. steve lusardi wrote budd you have obviously taken my reply personally and for that i apologize. no insult was intended. however for your information i am a mechanical and an electronic engineer i have been building engines from the age of 15. i am now 60. i have owned 3 machine shops been partner is 2 race engine building concerns. my current passion is high performance diesels. i have built them mostly for marine use but i just completed a design in partnership with another of an aircraft diesel for light aircraft. the prototype is now undergoing certification tests. this particular shop that i frequent is owned by a friend who has been a racer for many years. i have been building his race engines for 15 years. i am more than qualified to have an opinion. you do not have to accept it but if you are wise you should pay attention. your example of the mopar la block amplifies my point that the advantage of the v6 is held by the manufacturer. yes the bearings are interchangable as are the rods pistons cam bearings cam drive etc. as far as secondary harmonics they are not an issue in any 90 degree v8. in point of fact they are smoothest of all designs. you never see a balance shaft in a v8 but you do for v6s lincoln/mercury for exactly that reason. the mopar slant 6 was one of weakest inlines ever made and they had 5 main bearings not 4 as opposed to 7 for most others. power was very low for their displacement for good reason just to straighten you out on harmonic balancers their reason for existance is for damping torsional vibration of the crank not secondary harmonics. in line engines do not suffer from this issue on offset rod journals they are used on all 90 degree v6 engines. take one apart and see for yourself. 60 degree v6 engines do not offset the rod journal but they really suffer from secondaries. that is why detroit changed to 90 degree engines. buick had many many lawsuits after they first introduced the v6 engine it was a 60 degree motor because of block crank and main web failures. that is why they now use 90 degree cranks. steve nice to see a sensible and well mannered post for a change. your credentials and experience sounds well qualified to assist all of those in this group. at this point im impressed........... jerry .
From : max340
really budd perhaps you had better look again. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving slant sixes. -- budd whats the difference between a bad golfer and a bad skydiver one goes whack darn and the other goes darn whack. once again you show your ignorance. all three are in parallel since they all leave from the same place on the intake and all return directly to the water pump. you do know the definition of parallel dont you that depends on design and varies from vehicle to vehicle. really name one modern vehicle where this is not the case. better yet name one chrysler product where this is the casr since the op is talking about a dodge. the only thing the bypass is directly in parallel with is the thermostat. the bypass hose is not to provide an alternate route for coolant to bypass the heater core it is to provide for circulation when the thermostat is closed. no shit sherlock. try telling that to your buddy budd. but the heater circuit is still in parallel with the radiator and the bypass. sorry to dissapoint you moron ooops the name calling in leiu of facts defense. you are done. lol no but you are and once again you had better talk to your buddy budd. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : budd cochran
that will really be hard to do if it still has the mopar alternator and regulator . . the regulator usually black in color is on the firewall and has a two wire plug on it. now if its a gm single wire system i think they can be changed but ive not been into one in years. in this case it will be really hard to do since the voltage regulator is integrated in the pcm or as we called em back then sbec. mike -- budd whats the difference between a bad golfer and a bad skydiver one goes whack darn and the other goes darn whack. is it possible to replace the internal voltage regulator in the alternator or must i just replace the alternator too thanks lee .
From : tbone
slant sixes. -- budd whats the difference between a bad golfer and a bad skydiver one goes whack darn and the other goes darn whack. once again you show your ignorance. all three are in parallel since they all leave from the same place on the intake and all return directly to the water pump. you do know the definition of parallel dont you that depends on design and varies from vehicle to vehicle. really name one modern vehicle where this is not the case. better yet name one chrysler product where this is the casr since the op is talking about a dodge. the only thing the bypass is directly in parallel with is the thermostat. the bypass hose is not to provide an alternate route for coolant to bypass the heater core it is to provide for circulation when the thermostat is closed. no shit sherlock. try telling that to your buddy budd. but the heater circuit is still in parallel with the radiator and the bypass. sorry to dissapoint you moron ooops the name calling in leiu of facts defense. you are done. lol no but you are and once again you had better talk to your buddy budd. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : max340
on wed 15 dec 2004 181823 -0500 wayne sikorski wsikorski@snip.net wrote everything that you ever wanted to know about the recall. thank you .
From : theguy
he op said it was a lower radiator hose heater not a block heater as such while true tommy boys blanket statements definitely do not fit all coolant heaters which was why i mentioned that block heaters go elsewhere in the coolant flow. lol exactly what blanket statement would that be are you trying to spin your way out of this now i made no blanket statements that im aware of but if i did show me. sounds more like you are trying to stick your head in the sand again. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : tbone
does the low side use a tire schrader valve since the pressure is within the range that a tire would use or is it specific .
From : max340
this is an fyi for those that have not received the notice. just received mine today. it involves rerouting the positive battery cable which could short and cause a fire under the hood. frank .
From : budd cochran
steve lusardi wrote budd you have obviously taken my reply personally and for that i apologize. no insult was intended. however for your information i am a mechanical and an electronic engineer i have been building engines from the age of 15. i am now 60. i have owned 3 machine shops been partner is 2 race engine building concerns. my current passion is high performance diesels. i have built them mostly for marine use but i just completed a design in partnership with another of an aircraft diesel for light aircraft. the prototype is now undergoing certification tests. this particular shop that i frequent is owned by a friend who has been a racer for many years. i have been building his race engines for 15 years. i am more than qualified to have an opinion. you do not have to accept it but if you are wise you should pay attention. your example of the mopar la block amplifies my point that the advantage of the v6 is held by the manufacturer. yes the bearings are interchangable as are the rods pistons cam bearings cam drive etc. as far as secondary harmonics they are not an issue in any 90 degree v8. in point of fact they are smoothest of all designs. you never see a balance shaft in a v8 but you do for v6s lincoln/mercury for exactly that reason. the mopar slant 6 was one of weakest inlines ever made and they had 5 main bearings not 4 as opposed to 7 for most others. power was very low for their displacement for good reason just to straighten you out on harmonic balancers their reason for existance is for damping torsional vibration of the crank not secondary harmonics. in line engines do not suffer from this issue on offset rod journals they are used on all 90 degree v6 engines. take one apart and see for yourself. 60 degree v6 engines do not offset the rod journal but they really suffer from secondaries. that is why detroit changed to 90 degree engines. buick had many many lawsuits after they first introduced the v6 engine it was a 60 degree motor because of block crank and main web failures. that is why they now use 90 degree cranks. steve nice to see a sensible and well mannered post for a change. your credentials and experience sounds well qualified to assist all of those in this group. at this point im impressed........... jerry .
From : budd cochran
during the past week my 2000 ram diesel has started popping the starter solenoid fuse. ive never had a problem or noticed any degradation in performance prior to this. turning on the key lights the dash fans etc. as expected. after waiting for the wait to start light to go out i turn the key. i get no sound from the starter at all and the fuse pops within one or two seconds. since it started doing this ive gotten one successfull start the rest have poppped the fuse. the weather isnt incredibly cold here high 20s to low 30s at night and the truck has been plugged in. my thinking is starter but i want to see if there is anywhere else i should look or any way to test the started to see if its the problem. any help is greatly appreciated. it sounds like the starter solenoid has gone south. the starter itself would cook a fusable link if its windings were shorted. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : tbone
during the past week my 2000 ram diesel has started popping the starter solenoid fuse. ive never had a problem or noticed any degradation in performance prior to this. turning on the key lights the dash fans etc. as expected. after waiting for the wait to start light to go out i turn the key. i get no sound from the starter at all and the fuse pops within one or two seconds. since it started doing this ive gotten one successfull start the rest have poppped the fuse. the weather isnt incredibly cold here high 20s to low 30s at night and the truck has been plugged in. my thinking is starter but i want to see if there is anywhere else i should look or any way to test the started to see if its the problem. any help is greatly appreciated. .
From : max340
tbone wrote probably a bad ground. a poor ground connection will draw excessive current through the circuit and through the filament which isnt designed for that much current and burns out prematurely. unplug the connector from the taillight bucket and try and clean the contacts as much as you can. ok ill bite. how exactly does a bad ground increase the current draw because the battery would attempt to deliver its entire power supply from one pole to another. hence a short circuit. jerry .
From : budd cochran
i need original fabric for my seats in my 92 ramcharger. its carmel colored in a canyon sport. any one know where i can buy new covers or fabric scott wolff .
From : tbone
but the us production worker does bear some of the responsibility. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving please dont blame the us production worker. he just builds what management/engineering tells him to. the sad part is the customer has to pay top dollar for an authentic oem part which could be no more than a part that was manufactured by yung boi cheap labor. add the lame uaw into the assembly and the odds are slim if ya get one that doesnt break. bush says outsourcing is good. good for who .
From : budd cochran
i messed it up try this www.svtperformance.com/forum...adphpt=145321 that should do it. wtf!! maybe this www.svtperformance.com/forum...ad.phpt=145321 screw it i give up. sorry. roy how about. http//www.mad-medien.de/svt/vids/ford.wmv greg yup thats it. thanks roy .
From : budd cochran
i messed it up try this www.svtperformance.com/forum...adphpt=145321 that should do it. wtf!! maybe this www.svtperformance.com/forum...ad.phpt=145321 screw it i give up. sorry. roy how about. http//www.mad-medien.de/svt/vids/ford.wmv greg not bad. what was that an 80 mph speedometer bg denny mine has a 140. once the aerodynamics come into play the rpms come slow. gotta love that whine. it is a lot louder than the what is picked up on the clip. roy .
From : Annonymous
http//www.geocities.com/pors288/dodge.html dodge super8 hemi concept dodge viper gts-r dodge viper srt .
From : tbone
that sounds more like a failed ignition stitch. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving the electric system has completely shut down. nothing works in on or start position. clock light comes on in accessories position. the battery is fully charges and i can find no blown fuses. im wondering if this means the computer has gone out. any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. --------------------------- = wake up america = .
From : jerry
let me start by saying i probably wont think/mention everything here since im hum an and will miss some of the details so read all posts in the thread to get the most from your questions. there are a bunch of knowledgable guys in here. 1 how do these diesel engines wear and what tests can be done to evaluate the engines condition are things like compression tests or leakdown tests meaningful in this case they wear just like any other engine although the cummins b series is particularl known for longevity. you could see million miles on it or it could fail in the next 100k. compression tests and leak down tests are a valuable tool in determining the health of the specimen you have. 2 without knowing anything about the engine aside from its mileage what servicing should i plan to have done since you have a 12 valve engine i would have the valves adjusted since the last adjustment is unknown. unless the engine is exhibiting idle or load oddities such as lope a miss chugging etc your injectors are probably ok. however if you feel its needed and you have the $$ swapping a set of new/rebuilt/performance injectors in will not hurt at all. also itll give you a maintenance baseline. as to the transmission the only issue with the 5spd was the fifth gear nut backing off. ideally youll not need to deal with this but should it happen the fix is a shaft with more thread on it. read that as expensive so you may want to hold off until the problem exhibits itself as it may be fine for the duration of your use. its primarily a result of resonation from the diesel while in fifth gear. thus you will have an idea when conditions can lead to the problem. 3 aside from the engine what else on the truck should i be focusing on everything! seriously check on brakes. be sure the rear drums have operating adjusters and that the front discs have plenty of meat on them. check axle bearings for proper adjustment as well as the front spindles for bearing grease and proper adjustment. check exhaust for soft spots rusted hangers and damage. check driveline for bad carrier bearing grease the universals check for slop/slack/play between componants. check frame for any visible damage or rust. fix any loose mountings or out of place wiring tubing and hoses. check for leaks where ever they may occur. clean the engine and observe periodically for leaks. clean engines can also run cooler and collect less dirt over time. check batteries for date of purchase and replace if they are within a year of life expectancy. check radiator and auxilury coolers for clean and straight fins. check body panels for function doors tailgate hood and grease as needed. not everything in a maintenance log and enjoy the vehicle. max life liberty and the pursuit of any jackass that threatens it. embellished usnavy slogan .
From : budd cochran
please dont blame the us production worker. he just builds what management/engineering tells him to. the sad part is the customer has to pay top dollar for an authentic oem part which could be no more than a part that was manufactured by yung boi cheap labor. add the lame uaw into the assembly and the odds are slim if ya get one that doesnt break. bush says outsourcing is good. good for who .
From : tbone
the part you dont seem to get is most block heaters that heat the coolant do not go in the radiator hoses since thats too large a volume of water to get moving via convection with that small a heater. they use the heater hose and can be plumbed into the block via the drain plug/cock below the cylinder bank. psst scott the op said it was a lower radiator hose heater not a block heater as such. budd .
From : theguy
the heater core coolant lines and the bypass are in parallel with each other no they are not. the only thing in parallel with the bypass hose is the thermostat hence the name bypass hose. once again you show your ignorance. all three are in parallel since they all leave from the same place on the intake and all return directly to the water pump. you do know the definition of parallel dont you do you know the art of metal casting not all are in parallel idiot. resorting to name calling already. this is a primary indicator that your argument has no foundation. all three leave the same chamber of the intake manifold and if you think differently prove it and they all return directly to the water pump. this is the definition of parallel budd but keep digging yourself in its getting hard to see you now. but at least i know what the bypass actually does. no you dont. yes i do but feel free to expalin it to us. ok expalin is actually spelled e-x-p-l-a-i-n. oh and you dont know crap idiot. pounding your fists like a angry child and resorting to spelling errors and typos now. another sigh that you are both wrong and know it. since it is in the lower hose it can feed heat to both the engine and radiator regardless of the position of the thermostat. the part you dont seem to get is most block heaters that heat the coolant do not go in the radiator hoses since thats too large a volume of water to get moving via convection with that small a heater. they use the heater hose and can be plumbed into the block via the drain plug/cock below the cylinder bank. you say this as if i actally cared what you think. unless you can use the word all instead of most and then back it up you are just full of shit and trying to start trouble a usual. it is not my block heater and i never saw it. the op says thats where it mounts and was concerned by the amount of heat that it generated and i said that was normal. budd mentioned the need for the thermostat to be open for it to work and i asked him a simple question. he could have simply answered it like a man but also as usual chose a different course. i responded to it in a still much nicer tone than his and now here you are and also wrong imagine that. ah . . .the truth will out . . .look at your first sentence in this paragraph translation to english at no extra charge you say this as if i actally actually cared what you think. more hiding behind typos lol. but this is a valid point. when someone tries to be accurate even if i dont always agree with them like tom denny mac and others like that i do care but when people like you and max come up with your all so typical bs and spin why should i. i guess that the same could be said about me but i at least admit to when i am actually wrong. this sums up your whole problem tommy-boy. you dont care what anyone thinks especially if they are having to correct one of your errors. there is a big difference between errors and different ways of doing things and when im wrong i admit to it. when have you this is why you are rude crude and socially unacceptable why youre disliked / hated by some and why you dont find the acceptance you try to force eveyone to give you. i am only rude and crude to those who act that way toward me and even then i am no where near as childish as you are. the sad part is you dont even respect yourself enough to try be accurate in your answers. lol just because you dont agree does not mke me wrong. you have been wrong in our arguments far more times than i have and i admit when i am. for you to insist on it being the radiator hose shows your ignorance of not only the plumbing but of engine heaters. sorry to dissapoint you moron but i never insisted any such thing. the op said that is where it was and was supposed to be installed and since i never saw either it or its instruction manual i am going to take the ops word for it. how much flow do you really think that you are going to get with the convection currents it can create none if its blocked by the thermostat. that is also incorrect. if i heat the water it is going to rise if possible and since the heater is in the lower hose it can. now lets think about it if it rises will the colder water above it not drop down to take its place i think that it will and so do the makers of all cooling system block heaters because if it didnt none of them would work. hey super-moron the flow would be already established if you turn on the heater when the engine is already warmed up using 1/4 the electricity needed to warm the engine up as comapred to keeping an engine warm. this is an assumption that is incorrect. unless that block heater both has a thermostat and is capable of maintaining whatever temperature while cycling on and off it will use the same amount of electricity per ho
From : tbone
on thu 16 dec 2004 171247 gmt tbone t-bonenospam@nc.rr.com wrote on wed 15 dec 2004 204654 gmt tbone t-bonenospam@nc.rr.com wrote time to further your education again sheeesh . . . and you claim to be such a great mechanic. and by this crap you posted below far more of one than you. while i admit that my thoughts were wrong concerning flow in relation to the bypass they were no where near as bogus as this crap from you. the bypass allows coolant flow to the heater core for faster heat to the drivers compartment hahahahahahahahaha!!!! the heater core coolant lines and the bypass are in parallel with each other so how exactly does it do this sorry budd but you simply dont know wtf you are talking about. the purpose of the bypass it to allow the coolant to flow within the engine bypassing the radiator when the thermostat is closed to allow a normal warmup and prevent hot spots and engine damage. on the moderns dc products the heater circuit also does this all of the time but on the older models there was a valve that shut the flow to the heater core off and when it was closed the bypass was the only path to keep the water moving. this is where my thoughts were in error as i didnt take into account that the bypass actually bypasses the radiator and its hoses but at least i know what the bypass actually does. hey tom you are back huh no since that would indicate that i had at some time left. tell me what insatiable need do you have to be an automotive expert none at all. ive noticed that when someone anyone posts here with a problem you are on it literally like stink on shit. then you would once again be deluding yourself. the problem is that you always end up in a pissing match. well yea but i have not been the one starting them lately. you post then someone posts to correct something that you said and then you get your panties in a bunch and the fight is on. now you are deluding yourself again. i asked a question and instread of gettin a valid reply i recieved a childish attack which was also completely incorrect. im just curious. complete bs. you are just trying to start trouble and are nmot man enough to admit to it. through all of this you continue to post and to argue to assert your knowledge of mechanics. then you end up with nothing but the edge of semantics to argue about really care to back that up. as you cry and whine that you were misunderstood and that you alone had the right answer. it just goes on and on. then why do you bother to read it at all. it just makes me wonder what kind of life you have when you have to act like you do in order to demand attention for your expertise or your imaginary expertise. and yet here you are and posting in it without so much as a lime of knowlege on the subject. what kind of life do you have that you need to take the other side in the hope of finding some friends the fact that i have a life is the reason that you dont see me post much. what about you i thought that you were part of the group that was going to boycot me. it seems that miles is the only one with spine enough out of you four or five to actually do it. just saying tom thats all. no you are just trying to start trouble in your typical cowardly way. now go grab that new gun of yours and get back under the bed. there may be a terrorist within 1000 miles that you need to hide from. lol. you are a hoot tom. btw i thought that you had just quit posting so much because the home put a curfew on you waiting to see if your new meds would have any positive outcome. as far as knowledge tom what i posted about is your unique ability to repeatedly show your ignorance your stupidity and your obvious oblivion to that fact. now that is a subject that everyone here has a lime of knowledge about since your presence creates a living laboratory for childish behavior. the reason that i occasionally come out and play with you tom is just curiosity. human beings love the bizarre. you tom are bizarre. its like traffic crashes. there are a lot of us that run to a crash just to see the damage. just to gaze at the results and i suppose to affirm to ourselves that we are happy that it wasnt us. every time i see you post tom i have to read it. i continue to be amazed at the traffic crash that you are. and trust me tom i thank the lucky stars that i am not you. you see tom you are just entertainment here. that should give you some solace however. i mean at least you fill some role in this universe. you make the rest of the world happy. happy that we are not you. now as far as my just trying to start trouble in your typically cowardly way im really not. im just being honest. hey id love to meet you. id even buy you a beer. you see i truly am fastinated by the bizarre and i have a feeling that you could fill a whole chapter for me.
From : max340
labrat chase@cheese.net wrote on 14 dec 2004 071539 -0800 potusmaker@yahoo.com puked hi guys new job is great. i miss home but... its 70 degrees here in texas. so im selling my sable hat. if you want to bid ive listed it at ebay.com there is a new photo of my in my new location there. im wearing the hat! http//cgi.ebay.com/ws/ebayisapi.dllviewitem&rd=1&item=6728348821&sspagename =strkmeseit#ebayphotohosting thanks tina how much for the girl -- labrat - the less you care the more it doesnt matter. looks like beaver not sable .
From : budd cochran
time to further your education again sheeesh . . . and you claim to be such a great mechanic. and by this crap you posted below far more of one than you. while i admit that my thoughts were wrong concerning flow in relation to the bypass they were no where near as bogus as this crap from you. if you knew then why did you ask just to stir up trouble like you usually do i didnt know as far as what the question asked and that is why i asked it. why cant you be a man or at least act like one. you could have simply said that the bypass bypasses the radiator and both of its cooling lines and have been done with it or simply ignored me but instead you come out with your all too typical childish attacks. what a phucking baby you have become. i gave you this style of answer simply because you are such an idiot and i just dont like you. awwww are you in a bad mood did you soil yourself again i can see why you dont like me. i keep bringing to light what you have really become and you simply dont like what you see. although i really cant blame you for not liking it you are completely responsible for becomming who and what you are and none of that is my fault at all. the bypass allows coolant flow to the heater core for faster heat to the drivers compartment hahahahahahahahaha!!!! the heater core coolant lines and the bypass are in parallel with each other so how exactly does it do this sorry budd but you simply dont know wtf you are talking about. the purpose of the bypass it to allow the coolant to flow within the engine bypassing the radiator when the thermostat is closed to allow a normal warmup and prevent hot spots and engine damage. on the moderns dc products the heater circuit also does this all of the time but on the older models there was a valve that shut the flow to the heater core off and when it was closed the bypass was the only path to keep the water moving. this is where my thoughts were in error as i didnt take into account that the bypass actually bypasses the radiator and its hoses but at least i know what the bypass actually does. a bunch of bogus bull if i ever read any. so shoot me for keeping it on your iq level . . .you know single digits ... negative single digits. and yet still more than you seem to know. in all engines if the bypass doesnt bypass the radiator it takes a heck of a long time for the heater to put out heat. that was the reason for it being put on in the first place. an engine will actually warm up faster if the coolant does not flow any. simple physics. lol does not flow any what yes budd the engine will warm up faster by not flowing all of its water thru the radiator but the bypass serves its purpose by allowing some water to continue to flow at all times to allow even heating prevent hot spots and for the thermostat to see the temperature of the fluid within the engine block. take a ride in an old thermosiphon cooled ford sometime in a winter ... no bypass and no heat and if you dont cover the radiator its gonna get real cold before you do get any heat. you really need to stay on the same plannet here budd. thermosiphon fords dont have pumps so where or what is your comparrison i would also say that their 25hp engines didnt put out anywhere near the heat of a modern 200+ hp truck engine or had any critical hot spots by the operation of the thermosiphon cooling system alone. your lack of knowledge or experience caught you with your foot in your mouth and your head up your butt again. youre a regular contortionist anymore. the only one this description truly fits here now budd is you. but keep digging its fun to watch. good stable engine / radiator flow can be had faster if you just use a couple braincells and plug in the heater with the engine already warmed up. wtf are you talking about this is a heater not a pump. it does not require stable engine / radiator flow to do its job and as jerry pointed out since it is in the lower hose it can feed heat to both the engine and radiator regardless of the position of the thermostat. wheres that incredible knowledge of physics you brag about now look up thermosiphoning again. lol but this is not a thermosiphon system. we are not trying to establish a flow to cool the engine down we are trying to heat it up and that will happen anyway due to those very laws of physics. the hot water will rise thru the cold water above it and into the engine. it will take a little longer but that is a desired thing anyway. the more massive the device the longer to heat when cold so if you start with a cold engine and radiator the radiator will warm first and then your coolant flow will try to go backward toward the relatively colder engine block then when cooled more by the engine mass down to the heater. lol you are forgetting the primary principle of a thermosiphon which is
From : tbone
the heater core coolant lines and the bypass are in parallel with each other no they are not. the only thing in parallel with the bypass hose is the thermostat hence the name bypass hose. once again you show your ignorance. all three are in parallel since they all leave from the same place on the intake and all return directly to the water pump. you do know the definition of parallel dont you do you know the art of metal casting not all are in parallel idiot. but at least i know what the bypass actually does. no you dont. yes i do but feel free to expalin it to us. ok expalin is actually spelled e-x-p-l-a-i-n. oh and you dont know crap idiot. since it is in the lower hose it can feed heat to both the engine and radiator regardless of the position of the thermostat. the part you dont seem to get is most block heaters that heat the coolant do not go in the radiator hoses since thats too large a volume of water to get moving via convection with that small a heater. they use the heater hose and can be plumbed into the block via the drain plug/cock below the cylinder bank. you say this as if i actally cared what you think. unless you can use the word all instead of most and then back it up you are just full of shit and trying to start trouble a usual. it is not my block heater and i never saw it. the op says thats where it mounts and was concerned by the amount of heat that it generated and i said that was normal. budd mentioned the need for the thermostat to be open for it to work and i asked him a simple question. he could have simply answered it like a man but also as usual chose a different course. i responded to it in a still much nicer tone than his and now here you are and also wrong imagine that. ah . . .the truth will out . . .look at your first sentence in this paragraph translation to english at no extra charge you say this as if i actally actually cared what you think. this sums up your whole problem tommy-boy. you dont care what anyone thinks especially if they are having to correct one of your errors. this is why you are rude crude and socially unacceptable why youre disliked / hated by some and why you dont find the acceptance you try to force eveyone to give you. the sad part is you dont even respect yourself enough to try be accurate in your answers. for you to insist on it being the radiator hose shows your ignorance of not only the plumbing but of engine heaters. sorry to dissapoint you moron but i never insisted any such thing. the op said that is where it was and was supposed to be installed and since i never saw either it or its instruction manual i am going to take the ops word for it. how much flow do you really think that you are going to get with the convection currents it can create none if its blocked by the thermostat. that is also incorrect. if i heat the water it is going to rise if possible and since the heater is in the lower hose it can. now lets think about it if it rises will the colder water above it not drop down to take its place i think that it will and so do the makers of all cooling system block heaters because if it didnt none of them would work. hey super-moron the flow would be already established if you turn on the heater when the engine is already warmed up using 1/4 the electricity needed to warm the engine up as comapred to keeping an engine warm. block heaters on v type engines need to be paired one per side to work right and warm the whole engine properly but again a warm engine is the most efficient way to do it. it is not important anyway since it uses both convection currents and normal heat transfer to do its job and with its location does not need normal coolant flow anyway. it most certainly does. no it doesnt. yes the normal coolant flow is needed. and you wonder why i have the attitude that i do. even if you knew as much as you think you do your attitude is unjustified. sorry maxi but it was you angry child friend budd that started with the attitude. what attitude you getting back as youve dished out super-moron. and until hell freezes i have no reason to do otherwise. you wouldnt make a decent sized pimple on a morons butt. youre lower than whale feces. you give mental deficiency a bad name. you give social peversions a good name. if you went to hell satan would accept you because yourre over-qualified. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving personal experience tommy-troll must be. it would explain the lack of intelligence you demonstrate . . . why dont you just give it another try maybe this time youll knock some sense back in . . budd .
From : max340
willy wanka wrote im wanting to get a power chip for my 99 ram 318 auto 2/wd. i drive fairly aggressivly but not to the limits of the truck. i plan on replacing the air filter with a k&n or something along those lines. the exhaust is almost done. no headers yet but 3 cat back duals. had to get the sound. im looking at the 1 superchips max microtuner 2 hypertech power programmer iii they appear to do almost the same thing. if anyone has used either one could you me your opinion on the tuners. im also open for other suggestions i want to buy the right one first time. willywanka the universe is composed of only two substances magic and bullshit. i used a hypertech on mine. made a huge differance. best money ive spent since buying the truck. there are two tuning levels 89 and 91. the upper level has more agressive tuning and requires premium fuel. it didnt seem to make a huge differance over the medium level in power and got much worse fuel economy. i live at 6500 ft and even with premium fuel it would still ping. i have it set at the medium level. uses mid grade fuel and sometimes pings just a tad under a real heavy load - like full throttle with a heavy trailer. if im going to pull any distance in the summer i just put a little premium in the tank. last spring i drove out to ma from co. going across the plains on two lane black tops does not require much power. so i reprogrammed it back to stock and used the cheap fuel. i towed a trailer load of tools back and programmed it up again when the altitude started to climb. thats the best thing about the tuner it only takes a few minutes to change the tuning. -- ..bob 1997 hd fxdwg - turbocharged! 2001 dodge dakota qc 5.9/4x4/3.92 1983 gmc jimmy - mountain beater 1966 mustang coupe - daily driver 1966 ffr cobra - ongoing project .
From : budd cochran
posted previously but post never appeared ive decided that i just cant be jeepless anymore and since i have an 04 cummins anyway ill just have to get over my fear of scratching the bed! ive decided to offer for sale my very clean 01 2500 cummins 4x4 quad cab. this truck is very clean for pictures see http//utilityoffroad.com/dodge former owner was an auto broker who drove it back and forth from denver colorado to bozeman montana. - 101000 miles now but theyre highway miles and this is afterall a cummins! i recently had it in for its 100000 mile check up. lift pump and fuel injection pump were replaced under warranty. everything else was also checked and found to be perfect. the tranny was serviced and the bands didnt even require adjustment. - 4 wheel disk brakes. - automatic tranny - limited slip 3.54 gear ratio - $20500 which is thousands below book even with mileage factored in. - located in billings montana will deliver for travel expenses. please send questions to the email address listed at the bottom of the web page shown above. .
From : budd cochran
jerry wrote just for safety i would make sure i plugged it into a no fault ground circuit. damn should of had another cup of coffee .........and that should read ground fault circuit. jerry .
From : theguy
time to further your education again sheeesh . . . and you claim to be such a great mechanic. and by this crap you posted below far more of one than you. while i admit that my thoughts were wrong concerning flow in relation to the bypass they were no where near as bogus as this crap from you. if you knew then why did you ask just to stir up trouble like you usually do i gave you this style of answer simply because you are such an idiot and i just dont like you. the bypass allows coolant flow to the heater core for faster heat to the drivers compartment hahahahahahahahaha!!!! the heater core coolant lines and the bypass are in parallel with each other so how exactly does it do this sorry budd but you simply dont know wtf you are talking about. the purpose of the bypass it to allow the coolant to flow within the engine bypassing the radiator when the thermostat is closed to allow a normal warmup and prevent hot spots and engine damage. on the moderns dc products the heater circuit also does this all of the time but on the older models there was a valve that shut the flow to the heater core off and when it was closed the bypass was the only path to keep the water moving. this is where my thoughts were in error as i didnt take into account that the bypass actually bypasses the radiator and its hoses but at least i know what the bypass actually does. a bunch of bogus bull if i ever read any. so shoot me for keeping it on your iq level . . .you know single digits ... negative single digits. in all engines if the bypass doesnt bypass the radiator it takes a heck of a long time for the heater to put out heat. that was the reason for it being put on in the first place. an engine will actually warm up faster if the coolant does not flow any. simple physics. take a ride in an old thermosiphon cooled ford sometime in a winter ... no bypass and no heat and if you dont cover the radiator its gonna get real cold before you do get any heat. your lack of knowledge or experience caught you with your foot in your mouth and your head up your butt again. youre a regular contortionist anymore. good stable engine / radiator flow can be had faster if you just use a couple braincells and plug in the heater with the engine already warmed up. wtf are you talking about this is a heater not a pump. it does not require stable engine / radiator flow to do its job and as jerry pointed out since it is in the lower hose it can feed heat to both the engine and radiator regardless of the position of the thermostat. wheres that incredible knowledge of physics you brag about now look up thermosiphoning again. the more massive the device the longer to heat when cold so if you start with a cold engine and radiator the radiator will warm first and then your coolant flow will try to go backward toward the relatively colder engine block then when cooled more by the engine mass down to the heater. the only way the heater can try to heat both at the same time is if its mounted horizontally at the radiator outlet which is the wrong place to put it. it needs to be in a more vertical position next to the engine to help direct the coolant flow toward the engine. and yes the heater unit in this type of application is a thermosiphon pump. and if youre thinking of that little tiny air bleed hole in the thermostat youre wrong there also. that hole effectively is not there as far as coolant flow is concerned. it has a flow rate of less than a gallon per hour. how much flow do you really think that you are going to get with the convection currents it can create it is not important anyway since it uses both convection currents and normal heat transfer to do its job and with its location does not need normal coolant flow anyway. more than you realize. do you fish what turns a lake over in the spring thermal currents. often does it in hours if the conditions are right. to warm and maintain temperature in that engine is going to take more flow that the bleed hole will allow. hence the need to plug in while the engines hot. have you ever even used an engine heater really tom you need to accept that your mechanical abilities are so underwhelming. funny you should say that since here they seem to be way above yours. and you wonder why i have the attitude that i do. thats simple youre an anti-social idiotic pile of organic chemicals that is an embarrassment to the theory of evolution and should have been flushed down a sewer. but the way you understood my post shows you to be far more the idiot than we gave you credit for. besides im at 4000 feet altitude and youre at about 300-400 ill always be above you. basic physics ya know. i asked you a simple question and instead of getting a valid response you come back with your typical insults and childish attacks. aw-w-w-w. did i hurt tommys widdle feelings. tough. i
From : tbone
jasolution@yahoo.com wrote ive ruled out the direct correlation to the fan it seems that it was just coincidence because if i have the fan on high while trying to the start the truck all behaviors remain consistent. also if i turn the fan on high immediately after the truck starts it will still run for the 30 seconds or so. i happened to be turning the fan on before at about the 30 second mark thus drawing the wrong conclusion that the fan was causing the stall. the problem appears to be directly related to temps below 40 degrees f. once i get it started it will run for about 30 seconds then stall out. then i can start it again it will run for 30 seconds +/- 10 seconds then stall. by about the fourth or fifth start i can slowly give it throttle bring it up to about 2000 to 2500 rpms and let it get warm. during this warm up period the rpms will drop in 1/2 every 5 seconds then it will surge back up. the longer it runs the less frequent and dramatic the surges. after about three minutes running at 2000 rpms everything is fine and she purrs like a kitten. the key to getting it up to that 2000 rpm mark is to give it throttle very slowly. if i try to gun it the truck dies immediately like its just not getting enough gas or is getting too much air. sensor problem vacuum leak if a vacuum leak why does it go away after warm up as always i appreciate everyones help and insight. jason the coolant temp sensor and the intake air temp sensor give the pcm signals to control fuel mixture and idle speed during warm-up. it could be one of them causing trouble. .
From : tbone
i have an old dodge ram pickup and a few years ago i put a heater in the lower radiator hose. i plugged it in tonight for the first time this year and noticed that it got very hot almost too hot to touch. so i unplugged it. these things are just supposed to get warm right im thinking it might be broken. pat actually they can get quite hot. remember they need to generate enough heat to warm up the block which is in itself a giant heat sink not to mention the radiator also dissipating some of that heat especially when it gets cold. to warm the engine from outside of the block with these conditions you need a significant amount of heat so it will get almost too hot to touch. if it just got warm it wouldnt do the job unless the only thing you wanted warmed up was the lower hose. doesnt the heat also cause the water to move do to the heat rises thing it seems like the heated water would circulate to some extent. phyloe the heat will propagate thru the system although im not sure how much of it will be due to circulation but without sufficient heat being generated it will dissipate without helping the engine much. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : tbone
1974 howe ford 800 custom cab-over fire-pumper deck gun 2 halogen flood lights 8 hp brigs & straton generator 2 hard-suction hoses all emergency lights including a mars light siren 2 radios p. a. system pumps booster tank and excellent tires. 8741 miles always stored in heated firehouse no rust. this rig has been stored for four years without being started. asking $5000.00 o.b.o.. contact rick buck at 217-691-5272 or e-male at checker69@warpnet.net. for more information. the rig is still stored the buffalo firehouse buffalo illinois which is about 10 miles east of springfield. .
From : budd cochran
hello maybe someone can help. i have a 95 dakpta with auto transmission. i am having problems with my transmission i think. the rpm spikes when going down the road shifts gears then slows down .. then the rpm will spike again. this will happen from a full stop to 70 mph. through all gears. once it is up to speed it will continue to spike the rpm. i was told by a friend that it might be a vacuum problem with the transmission. any ideas thanks john .
From : jerry
i thought you meant some kind of newly mandated no-fault circuits . . . bg -- budd whats the difference between a bad golfer and a bad skydiver one goes whack darn and the other goes darn whack. jerry wrote just for safety i would make sure i plugged it into a no fault ground circuit. damn should of had another cup of coffee .........and that should read ground fault circuit. jerry .
From : jerry
yup you are right even a battery will do that or a bad battery . in about 3500 miles it has cranked but would not idle 2 times what about off idle if you can keep foot on the gas pedal chances are it is a dirty throttle body or a faulty ais motor automatic idle speed there is a tsb out on that glenn beasley chrysler tech i bought a 97 dodge dakota about 4 months ago and had thought it was the best running truck i had ever owned. in about 3500 miles it has cranked but would not idle 2 times. you can keep it running and get to garage and it will run perfect. the check engine light does not come on. the mechanics say it has to mess up before they can find the problem.it is almost like it is not getting gas. anyone else had this problem. kvh .
From : budd cochran
that bad but the longer i own it the more i am convinced the 8 would have been a better choice. the gas mileage is the same more hp more torque with the 8. there is really no compelling reason to get stuck with the wimpy 6 course i was shopping the left-over market looking for a clear out price wasnt much left at the time. . 222 295009 20041215083935.06183.00001306@mb-m27.aol.com its safety glass has tint the locking clip has to be bonded on and the glass shop said the factory glass may have a slight curve whey wouldnt be able to match. it the dealer glass does not come through i ordered it and they say they have it but well see what shows up im strongly considering the power slider from crlawrence. the local glass shop quated 480$ installed... too bad its not vertical versus the standard horizontal opening i like the way the sport tracks work. rec.bicycles.marketplace .
From : phyloe
ooooo...wait til bob i sees this...he hates these ot posts. i can see why you would auction the hat it doesnt exactly look like dallas attire. its a good time of year to auction a hat like that since we just had our first real cold front move in. it wouldnt work for me though. cheers. on 14 dec 2004 071539 -0800 potusmaker@yahoo.com puked hi guys new job is great. i miss home but... its 70 degrees here in texas. so im selling my sable hat. if you want to bid ive listed it at ebay.com there is a new photo of my in my new location there. im wearing the hat! http//cgi.ebay.com/ws/ebayisapi.dllviewitem&rd=1&item=6728348821&sspagename=strkmeseit#ebayphotohosting thanks tina how much for the girl -- labrat - the less you care the more it doesnt matter. .
From : budd cochran
budd cochran wrote no. im just openly doing what you do refusing to provide proof instead of being a wuss and trying to ignore the request . . .although any manuals for an item like that would be most likely trashed by now 10 years after the fact dont you think besides youre not worth the effort you piece of whale crap. budd you and i never really got along very well but thats okay because life is like that. i got hot about the last line in the one post of yours because it seemed so childish and dumb to me and was over the line and i allowed a boil over but thats okay also. life is like that. as a rule we pretty much avoid each other which has worked out okay. but all you are doing with these kind of posts to tbone is feeding the troll. you are accomplishing absolutely nothing except to make yourself look foolish which is his main goal. every time you post back like this he wins you lose. making a post to someone in a thread he is involved in is one thing but a direct reply to him is a no win situation. watch him closer ............... every time he gets his shorts knotted up and given back to him by everyone in here he will run around and answer every post in the group as if to say hey guys look what i know. even if his reply is wrong which as we know is the majority or just a repeat of someone else he attempts to save face in this manner. just ignore the guy. if you want to say something do it in a reply to another persons post which btw really burns him up because you arent answering him directly. he is such a predictable little man it is almost comical. if you dont water a plant it will dry up and die. dont water this plant. jerry .
From : tbone
is this with the 2wd or the 4wd or all i have a 99 dak 4x4 i have taken it off road many times managed to tear apart a front axle while doing something really stupid. had the front end checked and everything was perfect minus the missing half of an axle dick wrote im in the same boat with my 97 dakota uppers replaced twice lowers once. moog the last time! why not start a class action suit i made a nhts report that 97s on were the same before the recall. include me please if you do. anyone with pre 2000 vehicles feel slighted that the safety recall d47 did not include their vehicles. upper ball joints are the same as those on the 2000 - 2003 models. i was just advised by the dealer my 1999 dakota needed the ball joints replaced with just 79k kilometers on it. i talked to chrysler canada and was told by amy tough luck but my vehicle is not included. i said the owners of pre 2000 dakotas should be given the same considerations for safety recalls as anyone else no so according to amy. end of discussion. any ideas on getting some action .
From : budd cochran
wrong are shot to heck by that one little fact its designed for a return flow thru the radiator. whether you can admit it or not is like you irrelevant. it will not change the truth that you are wrong according to the manufacturers. -- budd whats the difference between a bad golfer and a bad skydiver one goes whack darn and the other goes darn whack. what keeps the hot flow and the cooler flow from mixing causing a restrictive turbulence and reduced efficiency besides the fact that you yourself admitted that if the temperature really did get up operating temperature the thermostat would open anyway and allow your dreaded flow to the radiator. the turbulence does occur to some degree and there is nothing wrong with that. you do not want it to be too efficient or like max said it would have a difficult time heating that large of a cross section of water. even full blown thermosiphon systems dont move water all that fast and the engine produces much more heat than that little 600 watt radiator hose heater. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving . 222 295224 se3xd.3020$dq6.2373@fe12.lga the 2004 is a completely redesigned vehicle from the groound up. alot of the suspension is the same as the ram. kevin does anybody know if the dodge engineers re-designed the ball joints on the 2004s since they must of known about the problem for who knows how many years or is it just stupid is stupid d. haas .
From : tbone
i have an old dodge ram pickup and a few years ago i put a heater in the lower radiator hose. i plugged it in tonight for the first time this year and noticed that it got very hot almost too hot to touch. so i unplugged it. these things are just supposed to get warm right im thinking it might be broken. pat actually they can get quite hot. remember they need to generate enough heat to warm up the block which is in itself a giant heat sink not to mention the radiator also dissipating some of that heat especially when it gets cold. to warm the engine from outside of the block with these conditions you need a significant amount of heat so it will get almost too hot to touch. if it just got warm it wouldnt do the job unless the only thing you wanted warmed up was the lower hose. doesnt the heat also cause the water to move do to the heat rises thing it seems like the heated water would circulate to some extent. phyloe .