LOANDBO JEWELRY AND MORE! DESIGNER NAMES! NEW ARRIVALS! JUST IN TIME FOR CHRISTMAS!!!

From : loandbo

Q: god bless you! amen! and my apologies if the idiots remark seemed directed at anyone here including roy. it was directed at the chain letter writers. well marcus and i guess ill include chris in this as well. ive read your posts concerning a request for a prayer for our troops in harms way. ive this to say to you and i make no apologies. go fuck yourself! idiots and their chain letters. i figured you folks would find use for this. roy .

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From : loandbo

wow 0 at idle! fram or not that sounds like a defective oil filter. thats great that you caught it! i think i recall that fram uses too much flimsy cardboard and plastic where wix and others use better materials. you can also get an oil pressure and volume boost by running the larger oil filter rather than the current shorty type chrysler switched to back in the 80s. forgive the fram part numbers -- but i think the shorty is ph16 and the larger one is ph8. yea that sounds like the consensus. i also read about the different oil filters and they listed the fram filters as one of the worst. i replaced it with a mobil1 filter made by champion and the oil pressure increased by 25psi. now it rides at 3000rps at 45psi after reaching normal operating temperature where it was riding at 20psi. it would start cold and run right at 40psi and now when the engine is first started cold it runs 60-65psi. the filter made that much difference. i got the mobil1 because i couldnt get a wix at the local parts store. i found out the napa gold filters are actually wix filters with the napa gold branding. the whole oil pressure problem started after an oil change at texaco quicl lube. it would sit on 0 psi at idle. i swaped it out for the fram extra guard and then had the oil pressure riding at the low end of the scale. i have never had a problem with the oil pressure in my other trucks not a dodge running fram filters so i didnt know about the huge difference a filter can make. remember also that the worst wear occurs on cold startup. 5w30 would be best for an engine in good condition since it would minimize startup wear and still increase its viscosity to the higher number as engine temperature builds. 20w50 would result in poor flow on startup with increased wear as a result. as the miles on the engine climb higher and clearances increase 10w30 might be a good step since its a smaller range of viscosity and therefore should have less additives which contribute to deposits. what do you think dj wrote my truck calls for 10w-30 and in florida i dont need to worry about operation below freezing hardly at all. i have been running 20w-50 in most of my trucks because it often sees operation in temperatures above 90 degrees and above 100 in the summer. i know that on startu-up 10w-30 reaches the bearings quicker but wouldnt 20w-50 give it more protection in high heat conditions also i noticed the new 5w-30 oils out there. all data has the 5w-30 listed as an option in my truck. is there any advantage to 5w-30 over the others i would think the thinner oil wouldnt protect as well under harsh conditions like 4 wheeling or towing a trailer. i would appreciate you comments. i currently run castrol 20w-50. i would never use quaker state after rebuilding my fair share of quaker state engines with an inch or two of sludge build up from the parafins in qs. you need just enough viscosity to maintain proper pressure and no more. extra thick oil does not provide extra protection it takes more energy to move it around and puts excess strain on the pump and pump drive mechanisms. i run 5w-30 in my truck year round. in the summer i often tow a trailer in temps to the high 90s. in the winter it only gets down to about 0*. oil pressure is always right where it should be. still running great after 82k miles. -- .bob 2006 fxdi hot rod 2001 dodge dakota qc 5.9/4x4/3.92 1966 mustang coupe - daily driver 1965 ffr cobra - 427w efi damn fast. .