If you have a 46 RE auto trans...whats been your experience with it ?

From : cliff hammer

Q: ernest carry your thoughts a bit further. you were under the dash changing the heater core. you were pulling tugging and pushing everything around to accomplish this most unpleasant task. i think all of your problems are due to this. yes there is a hall effect sensor in the rear for the speedometer. in fact i think there is one on each wheel. the rams have one on the differential as well. they all terminate under the dash. i mean what can go wrong with an inert sensor. it is only a coil of wire around a magnetic slug. check for continuity through the sensors from the dash end. it is very likely that incorrect speed data could cause the pcm to create the stalls as well as the brake abs fault. i would disconnect and examine every pin in the associated wire harness and reconnect carefully. remember hall effect sensors work by creating a magetic field at the end of the slug and when a metallic object passes trough the field some of the energy is coupled to that object which momentarily increases the current draw of the sensor. this change in current is detected as the speed signal. steve im at my wits end and im hoping someone here can point the way. i bought a quadcab dakota in 2000. havent had much problem with it other than the pcm module having to be replaced in 2002. been very dependable. but my heater core sprung a leak two winters ago and i finally got around to replacing it last fall. note that everything was fine except for the heater. so i spend a weekend tearing the whole $*#! truck dash out to get to the $100 heater core that could have easily been desined to slip out through the engine compartment. but ill leave that rant for another thread as i have another whole list of headaches. when i got everything back together the abs and brake lights stayed on constantly. i assumed something was unplugged but i couldnt find any problems. brakes worked so i drove it. now the engine would die at stoplights. if i hit the gas as it dropped through 600rpm it would keep running with no problem. if i slowed very gradually with it in gear so that it tried to lug up to the stoplight it would keep running. but if i just pushed the clutch in at 1000rpm and let it drop off the engine would die every time. whats more as i passed through about 2400rpm there was a loud roar coming from the engine compartment that would disappear at around 2800. to top it all off the spedometer wouldnt register speed until i hit about 35mph. further investigation revealed that a small vacuum line coming from that dongle hanging off the front of brake booster to the interior was pinched. i had also twisted that dongle while trying to remove the vacuum line going to the manifold. aha! i found the culprit i says to myself. either the pinched hose or me twisting the dongle must have broken some sort of diaphram in the brake booster which let excess air into the intake manifold causing an overlean condition at the stoplight. this also sucked air through the broken diaphram at a resonant frequency at 2400rpm causing the roar. didnt explain the spedometer problem but baby steps i say. i spend $100 and an afternoon replacing the brake booster. the roar is still there and the engine still dies at stops. so i turn to google and search for a problem. turns out there is a problem with a $30 sensor on the rear end that will cause the spedometer/brake light problem. there is also a known problem with the fan clutch that will cause this roaring problem. i would go out and buy all the parts needed but i find it hard to believe that all these things went bad at the exact same time. can anyone here suggest a set of troubleshooting steps or test that i can work through to determine if the fan or abs sender is bad could i have gotten a bad replacement brake booster -- this is by far the hardest lesson about freedom. it goes against instinct and morality to just sit back and watch people make mistakes. we want to help them which means control them and their decisions but in doing so we actually hurt them and ourselves. .

Replies:

From : Annonymous

thanks for the info. turned out he wire wasnt broken just grounded by the screw and it blew the fuse. taped the wires up and replaced the fuse and now good as new. thanks again. on mon 11 apr 2005 010142 gmt jay jaysmith@insightbb.com wrote on most late model trucks dodges like to put the brains of the air bags under the dash at the transmission hump. the air bags checks to see if you have the seatbelt on before it goes off and the passengers weight on some trucks. that is what they call multistage driver and front-passenger air bags with an occupant classification system ocs that adjusts the deployment force of the passenger-side front air bag based on passenger weight that being said a good place for the wires on the seat sensors would be the transmission hump. please for your family and the familys that will have your truck after you!!! take it to the dealer. i just installed a cb bracket on the floor in front of the center seat. after screwing the bracket to the floor the airbag light stays on. i noticed there are wires running under the carpeting in this area. does anyone know if these are in fact the airbag wires and if so how do i lift the carpet to see what the problem is if the wire did get cut by the screw is it easy to replace thanks in advance for any help anyone can give me. .

From : Annonymous

steve lusardi wrote ernest carry your thoughts a bit further. you were under the dash changing the heater core. you were pulling tugging and pushing everything around to accomplish this most unpleasant task. i think all of your problems are due to this. yes there is a hall effect sensor in the rear for the speedometer. in fact i think there is one on each wheel. the rams have one on the differential as well. they all terminate under the dash. i mean what can go wrong with an inert sensor. it is only a coil of wire around a magnetic slug. check for continuity through the sensors from the dash end. it is very likely that incorrect speed data could cause the pcm to create the stalls as well as the brake abs fault. i would disconnect and examine every pin in the associated wire harness and reconnect carefully. remember hall effect sensors work by creating a magetic field at the end of the slug and when a metallic object passes trough the field some of the energy is coupled to that object which momentarily increases the current draw of the sensor. this change in current is detected as the speed signal. steve isnt the sensor for the speedometer in the transmission the one on the differential is for the anti-lock breaks. jam .