High Volume Oil Pump vs. Standard Oil Pump?

From : dj

Q: my truck calls for 10w-30 and in florida i dont need to worry about operation below freezing hardly at all. i have been running 20w-50 in most of my trucks because it often sees operation in temperatures above 90 degrees and above 100 in the summer. i know that on startu-up 10w-30 reaches the bearings quicker but wouldnt 20w-50 give it more protection in high heat conditions also i noticed the new 5w-30 oils out there. all data has the 5w-30 listed as an option in my truck. is there any advantage to 5w-30 over the others i would think the thinner oil wouldnt protect as well under harsh conditions like 4 wheeling or towing a trailer. i would appreciate you comments. i currently run castrol 20w-50. i would never use quaker state after rebuilding my fair share of quaker state engines with an inch or two of sludge build up from the parafins in qs. personally ive always run 10w30 in my gas burners. i live in ga and we see similar conditions. ive also had several go well past the 200k mark on 10w30. if you look in your owners manual there is a chart that shows what oil viscosity for what temp range. the 10w30 should cover your area fine. your summer time temps would be in the upper half of the 5w30 range. irrc -- ---------------------------- -chris 05 ctd 06 liberty crd real trucks dont need spark plugs. .

Replies:

From : budd cochran

hi group and sorry in advance for some of you will for sure concider this post as spam. however i have started a site for the exchange of any kind of written documents... from fiction to non-fiction; novels to do-it-yourself manuals. maybe the one or the other here has something to submit. any submission is welcome ! so if you are interessted www.vabok.com if not please dont mind. best regards tfr .

From : lugnut

thats hilarious about your nitro getting the once over in the parking lot! have you guys seen the commercials with the one falling through the earth - that song is freaking catchy i hum it for like 20 minutes after i see it. lol on dec 8 736 pm scpo s...@usn.com wrote i think that the first year for this will be fine - the caliber did really well as a first year i think integrating with the jeep platforms has helped with the quality on that front. scpo what did you think of the footwellsi may not be the best person to ask about foot room - im only 59 a buck seventy soaking wet wearing an 8 1/2 but since you asked - im happy as a pig in slop! as far as im concerned theres tons of foot/leg room but then again this is my first sissy shifter since 1970 and without a clutch... well lets just say its very roomy for me. btw since you mentioned the caliber i sat in one at the dealership just for shits and giggles. now thats a tight fit - i really felt claustrophobic. might be a good starter car for a young family but i couldnt see making long trips in one. one last item as i mentioned i have had my nitro for almost a month and have yet to see another one on the road. was at the local home depot the other day - when i came out there were about 8 guys giving it the once over. one guy asked me if it was a hummer jeeez! fair winds and following seas scpo .

From : roy

abby normal wrote the engine smelled rich. the engine only smoothed out a bit at high rpms 3000. iac valve. just went through something similar. autozone carries them. thanks. however did you have issues at rpms above idle and hesitation/lurching unless this dodge is different from other cars ive worked on the iac is just a bypass valve to control idle when the throttle is closed. my cheapo haynes manual doesnt have a air flow diagram. i believe that at open throttle it should make no difference. this engine runs rough at idle and open throttle. it runs better at higher rpms but still quite rough. larry .

From : craig c

lugnut wrote i generally lurk and do not post in the dodge group but since you brought up the ford 351 engine with which i have at least a passing interest and knowledge of i will take a shot at getting flamed here. are you kidding im just happy were not talking about god for a change. easy........ your problem was not the hv pump. it was a bad rear seal which was probably a result of excessive wear of the rear main which in turn was probably a result of the inadequate oiling of the rear main in the 335 series ford engines. i have seen this a number of times during overhaul. first this was 20 years ago so i will try with the best of my ability to remember all of the facts. i put the high volume pump on when i rebuilt the engine. i replaced all of the seals bearings etc. so im reasonably certain that the real seal was not bad. i put the high volume pump in not because i had any solid logical reason. since i put in a slightly above factory spec cam and an holly 4 barrel carb and edelbrock intake to replace the factory 2 barrel carb and intake. i figured ... hey im rebuilding this thing with spicier parts why not a high volume pump so thats what i did.

From : lugnut

iac valve. just went through something similar. autozone carries them. hi i inherited my moms 89 dodge dakota v6 with tbi. it hasnt been maintained too well for a while but neither has it been driven much. it drove fine for about a month after i got it being driven occasionally. it did have an issue with very occasionally dying immediately after starting. on the second start it was always fine. i figured it would go away with the tuneup i would give it soon. then one day when i went to drive it after it had sat for two days it would barely start once started would bog badly and die unless revved. when it was driven it would hesitate badly and then lurch forward or die as soon as it was in gear. the engine smelled rich. the engine only smoothed out a bit at high rpms 3000. no codes in the computer. i replaced the air filter plugs quite worn cap rotor wires coil. it ran less bad. i then replaced the map sensor since it seems to be a common issue and also cleaned the sensor contacts and the contacts in the computer on the fender. that made no difference. it will start no longer dies immediately and will idle rough. still hesitates badly and occasionally die in gear. the power kicks in suddenly at a 1500 - 2000 rpm and the truck lurches. im next replacing the fuel filter which is likely ten years old or more. i plan to do the rest of the basics for maintenance to get it to a good baseline. however this happened overnight indicating to me that something failed overnight. im also going to pull the o2 sensor to see if possibly the catalyst collapsed/clogged. any other suggestions for possible culprits thanks. larry .

From : joe brophy

on 13 dec 2006 134229 -0800 craig c. mcraigchr@gmail.com wrote dj wrote to sludge. would it mess up the fluid dynamics of the pump if that opening were enlarged i put a high volume pump on a ford 351c one time. boy did i regret that! everytime i started the engine it blew 1/2 quart of oil out of the real seal. real pain in the ass cleaning that driveway everyday. stick to a standard pump. craig c. i generally lurk and do not post in the dodge group but since you brought up the ford 351 engine with which i have at least a passing interest and knowledge of i will take a shot at getting flamed here. your problem was not the hv pump. it was a bad rear seal which was probably a result of excessive wear of the rear main which in turn was probably a result of the inadequate oiling of the rear main in the 335 series ford engines. i have seen this a number of times during overhaul. a high volume pump at proper stock pressure setting will do absolutely nothing in an engine that has good clearances other than maintain proper oil pressure at low engine speeds where pressure typically drops. any excess volume provided by the pump is sent thru the return path in the pump either to the pan or back to the suction side of the pump depending on engine design just as it would in a standard pump. there will be no additional oil forced to the engine above the volume required to produce whatever pressure the system is setup for. a high pressure pump on the other hand will force more oil higher volume to the engine depending on engine speed. if the pressure is set too high even a standard pump will run itself out of oil if the engine speed is high enough. that is why engines that continuously operate at high speeds as in racing have large or high volume oil pans or dry sump systems. you should not confuse pressure with volume. a high volume pump at standard pressure setting will not force any more oil to the engine than it would get with a stock pump at stock pressure settings. any pump set at higher than stock pressure may force more oil up into the upper engine running the risk of oil starvation if the engine speed is high enough. this is especially true if an oil of too great a viscosity is also used. lugnut .

From : craig c

my 96 had the same problem and it turned out to be a severed vacuum hose beneath the battery tray. minimal cost; replaced it myself. hope this helps. i have 97 dodge ram 1500 extended cab pu 5.2l and really enjoy it but my cruise control has apparently went out. the cruise control button in the steering wheel will come on but it will not engage. after about 1 minute the system will turn itself off. i use cruise control allot and was wondering is there a module that i can replace or a vacuum hose that i should look for. forgive me i am not a mechanic and any information will be appreciated. .

From : bob

use 10w30. pressure means nothing flow means everything. your engine use very small clearances hence the lower viscosity oil. do not use 20-50 inadequate flow will be the result at the front of the engine. your sludge story is a wives tail. sludge is common when inadequate warming of the oil occurs. it is created because condensated water combines with the residual sulfer in the oil. this creates sulfuric acid which corrodes the oil and turns the oil to sludge. this process can occur with any brand oil that contains sulfur. this condition is normally caused by people who remove the thermostat. did you do that steve what steve said! an oils resistance to shear is more important that the viscosity. i would stick with a 10w-30 quality oil. mike my truck calls for 10w-30 and in florida i dont need to worry about operation below freezing hardly at all. i have been running 20w-50 in most of my trucks because it often sees operation in temperatures above 90 degrees and above 100 in the summer. i know that on startu-up 10w-30 reaches the bearings quicker but wouldnt 20w-50 give it more protection in high heat conditions also i noticed the new 5w-30 oils out there. all data has the 5w-30 listed as an option in my truck. is there any advantage to 5w-30 over the others i would think the thinner oil wouldnt protect as well under harsh conditions like 4 wheeling or towing a trailer. i would appreciate you comments. i currently run castrol 20w-50. i would never use quaker state after rebuilding my fair share of quaker state engines with an inch or two of sludge build up from the parafins in qs. .

From : lugnut

hi i small question i just wonder what kind front guard grill will look ok for a durango 2004 model. i just had first contact with fee dears 4 and i got lucky i just bump from the side only 2 car still in one peace thax for any info. .

From : craig c

on thu 14 dec 2006 074453 -0600 abby normal abby.normal@comcast.net wrote iac valve. just went through something similar. autozone carries them. naw its a blown hub cap gasket. beekeep .