Hemi Milage : 1500 Quad Cab Regular Bed 2 Wheel drive
From : ambo
Q: on fri 05 mar 2004 081818 -0500 woody ars1@ttlc.net wrote on thu 4 mar 2004 173313 -0500 tom d k2tdf@comcast.net wrote iam needing tires on a 2002 dodge ram 4x4 and am trying to decide if i should bite the bullet and jump to the 20 in rims and tires. was wondering if anybody has made the change and if so how it affected performance. i assume the bigger rim will hurt it some with speed as well as mpg any thoughts the january 2004 issue of consumer reports has test results on plus-size tires. there were very slight improvements in breaking/handling with normal road conditions. however performance was severely degraded relative to hydroplaning ride comfort and snow. while they did not do an off road test if performance in snow is any indication performance would really suck. imho plus-size tires are for city folk that like the way the truck looks in the driveway and dont have a clue about the performance issues. amen!! mac .
Replies:
From : jps email
when it rains the truck wont start it ats like thier is no fuel getting to it any ideas 2000 dodge ram v8 5.2l email me at meucci2001@yahoo.com or back on here .
From : jps email
youre better of buying 3.54s for the dana 44 front axle. fitting the 8 3/4 gears and differential would end up a nightmare of machining if its possible at all as none of the parts interchange. joshua skinner william oconnor wrote greetings sorry for the cross-post but i wasnt sure which group would have the information i was looking for. i have two 8 3/4 3.55-1 ratio sure-grip rear axles that i took out of a couple early 70s dodge pickups before i junked them they were basket cases. heres my problem. i want to use the suregrips under a 78 dodge warlock 4x4 that im building. i can bolt one of them directly on the rear of the truck but the front axle is another matter. will the existing front housing accept the differential from a 8 3/4 i believe the current differential is a dana 44 if so would the axle shafts fit the suregrip or have to be resplined i could convert one of the rear housings into a front housing but then i would have to find a donor for the longer shaft. thanks in advance bill ...and on the other hand you have 5 fingers... .
From : milesh
thanks for the input guys. ill try the wd-40 first and if that does not cure it ill investigate the bearing areas. thanks again it sounds like a bad belt. only when the engine runs slow will you hear it. spraying wd-40 will not hurt the belt. it should stop the squeaking but will not last long. you could spray wd40 in bearing area but i would worry about overspray on the belt. you should try some spary belt dressing on the belt both sides to see if it quietens or use the crayon trick i did. this will tell you if it is belt or bearing. if beaing you should be able to pinpoint it. try a piece of small diameter tubing about 2 feet long. put one end in your ear and search with the open end. if you narrow down to a bearing use a long screwdriver on the non-moving bearing bolt and press your ear against the screwdriver. youll be amazed at the types of noises you can hear.... bearing heading south -- fmb only one b in fmb hi all ive got a 99 doge grand caravan es 3.8l. the problem i have is a load continuous squealing sound coming from around the belt area when im not accelerating or at a standstill. ive had a mechanic check the belts etc to see whats causing the annoying squeal. he said the belts/tension and everything looks good and that a piece of crud or something has got stuck somewhere around the belts/pulleys and that it will probably disappear by itself over time. but it seems to be getting louder and even more annoying and i want to know if there would be any harm in me trying to spray some lubricant wd-40 or similar around the pulley shaft areas. thoughts about other possible causes and remedies would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance. jitendra .
From : ambo
ive got a 2003 ram 1500 and i used it to haul some pine trees i had to cut down. i let it set too long before washing and now have pine sap all along the side and back of the bed. i have tried goo-gone polish and even paint thinner and nothing touches it. any suggestions other than not to do that again dddd real cold water usually works roy .
From : mac davis
hey robert i too am driving a 99 durango 4x4 automatic thats experiencing the same problem your durango is. im dropping it off at a trans place on monday morn. but im glad i read your post because i describe my problem to people like my trans is slipping. but youre right -- its not slipping; its having difficulty catching between gears. once its in gear its fine. but when its stuck i either have to let off the gas and let it catch or risk blowing the engine by stepping on the gas. i live in wnc with lots of slopes and each time i start climbing a hill or steep incline it gets stuck between gears. it also seems to get stuck lots when i start accelerating to make a turn. since i was a teen ive owned dodges. i leased a new 98 dakota when the new body style came out and it needed a new camshaft within one month of me driving it. also i had a ram 1500 after that and it had trans problems! my durango only has 48k miles. ill post the outcome here. rosathia .
From : mac davis
hey robert i too am driving a 99 durango 4x4 automatic thats experiencing the same problem your durango is. im dropping it off at a trans place on monday morn. but im glad i read your post because i describe my problem to people like my trans is slipping. but youre right -- its not slipping; its having difficulty catching between gears. once its in gear its fine. but when its stuck i either have to let off the gas and let it catch or risk blowing the engine by stepping on the gas. i live in wnc with lots of slopes and each time i start climbing a hill or steep incline it gets stuck between gears. it also seems to get stuck lots when i start accelerating to make a turn. since i was a teen ive owned dodges. i leased a new 98 dakota when the new body style came out and it needed a new camshaft within one month of me driving it. also i had a ram 1500 after that and it had trans problems! my durango only has 48k miles. ill post the outcome here. rosathia .
From : copper
hey thank you that link for newmoparparts.com just ordered my parts. never found it with google it returned too many hits and i got poor result by clicking away at all the links. it saved me70 mile round trip twice to get the parts once to order once to pick up. thanks once again. on sun 07 mar 2004 142542 gmt sorehead hall-patrick@sbcglobal.net wrote hi i got this post off of diesel forums 3rd generation on another site a member posted this 03 service manual says 5.9l diesel with manual trans. the speed control system is fully electronically controlled by the engine control module ecm. a cable and a vacuum controlled servo are not used if the vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission and a diesel engine. this is a servo- less system. the controls consist of two steering wheel mounted switches. the switches are labeled on/off res/accel set coast and cancel. he bought the switches and it worked on his 04. i got the switches for my 03 today and it does work. it engages at min speed of 35mph. two diff dealers told me you couldnt add cruise but they were wrong. the parts cost $46.91 delivered to the door from newmoparparts.com i hope this helps someone i also put the switches on my 03 2500 ram. worked like a charm. .
From : copper
what are you guys using for tow mirrors i have looked at various clip on mirrors but several stores have told me they do not fit the power/defrost mirrors on my 2001 1500 qc slt. some have told me they didnt like the cipa clip on mirrors even if they do fit. any others worth looking at what about spending the money to replace the mirrors with power extendable mirrors i have seen them available from campingworld and also from besttop and run about $330 a pair. worth it ive seen mixed reports about the mckesh strap on mirrors. they look like a pain from the pictures. .