Help with milkshake oil
From : ken
Q: i am trying to find out what the transmission is on a van that i am thinking of getting does anyone know if there is a vin code that will tell me if it is an a500 or an a727. it is a 1992 b350 with a 5.2l .
Replies:
From : yofuri
ok you guys here is what i did dunb or knot!! i have a 94 2500. the trany temp sensor is on the trany cooler line by the trany. it looks like a pres sensor screwed into about an 11/16 deep nut welded to the cooler line. just pull the wires off and insert a 6800 ohm 1 watt resistor across the wires. this will tell the computer that the trany oil is about 130 deg. and it will shift into overdrive and lock-up. but you will loose the over temp indicator for the trany cause you tricked it. you have no trany temp sensing now.i did this because mine would not shift for several miles in the winter and i have a real problem with spinning the shit out of a cold engine. i would rather ease off and waite untill the water temp comes up to the start of the normal arc befor i get on it than to run about 5 miles at 2200 rpm on a cold motor. i also will not pull anything until the water temp is in the normal arc. this has to be putting some extra presures in the system or dodge would not have elected to lock it out until it is warm. i have 189000 miles on the truck with over 160000 of them with this mod done to it and still on the original trany. but i only pull a 35 5er a 30 2 horse/living qrts gooseneck and accasionally a case 450c dozer with it but it is a dodge not a ford. .
From : roy
the oil level wasnt up there the foam was. the oil sprayed all on the underside of the hood. i am suspecting that the lack of an evac system pressurized the crank case and blew everything up the tube. i tested cold and at running temp and everyting was great. i even drove the car for an hour and checked the oil. not a thing wrong with it. good for you!! about time one of us caught a break. now if the pats can keep it up.... roy thanks all ken i just did a pressure test and everything was great. no pressure loss at all. i looked at the pcv hose and it was collapsed and had a slice in it at the crimp spot. i am going to get another hose and hope that it helps. i can just do a regular oil change correct thanks all i appreciate the help. did you pressure test it hot and cold im still curious as to how the level was at the top of the dipstick tube. something was added to raise the level. roy ken here is the situation i have a 98 4 cylinder dakota. actually my wife does. well i go to check the oil the other day and find oil on the underside of the hood and all over the passenger side of the engine. i check the oil and find nothing but a chocolate milkshake substance all the way up to the dipstick opening. first thought was blown headgasket but i have no clue how that would happen. the truck has never overheated no detrimental running issues no smoking the coolant is perfect. someone told me to watch out for a cracked head but they dont just crack for no reason. any clues. i dont have the time to tear this motor apart 2 car-2 job family. any one hear of this happening or care to shed some light here thanks ken .
From : spike13
bryan swadener wrote also both are ...the american people are now conditioned to front-wheel drive and its superior handling in snow and ice... fwd gained popularity with automobile manufacturers due to ease of cheaper design and manufacturing; madison avenue sold it to america. it isnt better -- its just a *different* can of worms. just my observation and experience. a fwd vehicle certainly isnt easier to design or cheaper to build is it stuffing transmission and engine together then somehow bending drivetrain to the front wheels as well as addition of cv joints doesnt seem cheaper to me. and fwd vehicles *do* have better winter traction. at least better than what the vehicle would have if the drive wheels were astern. whether that traction is good enough or not is another issue. smh fwd cars have fewer components to design/manufature -- transaxle vs transmission + differential assemblies. that makes it cheaper & easier to design and assemble. gm tried fwd w/ the cadillac eldorado buick riviera and olds toronado -- but from what ive heard they hadnt figured out the torque-steer and the public didnt flock to the dealers to buy them. my ski-mobile is a 76 arrow 5 speed rwd and two sets of tires/wheels. for winter driving im throw the studded tires on chain up a pair of the regular tires/wheels & toss em under the rear hatch. the chained tires/wheels add ballast making it just a tad heavier in the rear. ill typically drive 300 miles roundtrip per ski day... over 4061 stevens pass thru wenatchee and up to the ski area at mission ridge 4570... and back. i do this an average of 8 times/year for the last dozen years. i *rarely* have traction problems and even rarer -- need to chain up which takes only a few minutes and no kneeling-down in the snow. ;- with rwd and a stickshift *if* it gets loose i just back out of the throttle and the car straightens out. with fwd if you get loose typically your only option is to *accelerate* out of the slide assuming the front end isnt sliding. if driving a fwd car youd think you can use the parking brake to straighten out of a slide but all the ones ive seen have the parking brake on the front wheels - making that useless. yes fwd cars have the potential to go up slick hills better. but at some time youll need to go down the hill -- and i wouldnt feel as safe in a fwd car as in a rwd car. my $.02 worth. bryan really which ones my wifes old honda and her current intrepid both have the parking brake in the rear. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : ken
update heading for the fuel pump. damn it! i was hoping for an easier cheaper fix but cant have it. i replaced that pickup because a person who has worked on a lot of dodges said thats what it more than likely was plus i got one cheap so i figured why not. didnt work...of course. damn in-tank electric pumps pains-in-the-ass! if you are sure that it is not getting fuel into the fuel rail when it acts up what the hell does a magnetic pickup in the distributor have to do with that that pickup as you call it is the camshaft position sensor and controls the fuel injection synchronization. this could be the problem with the ops engine and possibly yours but it has no control over the fuel pump itself other to indicate to the pcm to shut it down. if you are sure that you are not getting fuel into the rail and you can hear the pump running then your problem is in the pump itself no if and or butts about it. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving dont feel badi have a 96 doing exactly the same thing. i did notice that i could let it sit and idle all day but once i drove it a certain distance it would mess up just as you describe. yours may not be flooding as mine doesnt get any fuel into the fuel rail when it acts up but the pump can still be heard running when it does this so i bet thats what yours is doing too. i put a new coil on after i was told that was the problem but it wasnt. the voltage to the fuel pump seems good too so im not going to put a $200+ pump in it until absolutely positive. my next try is going to be the magnetic pickup under the distributor for shits & giggles as i have a new one available so well see. im just not in the mood to play with that damn cap/rotor again tough to get at...but i will. hello...i have a 1995 dodge 4x4. recently after a trip down the freeway i turned off and started up a mountain highway and suddenly my truck seemed to lose all power. i pulled off the road and it sat and idled but it was running very badly. if i tried to give it gas it would act as though it was flooding...it would begin to rev up but after it got to a certain point it would run very bad. i called a tow truck and while waiting i started it back up and it seemed to be running normal. i drove back off the mountain and met the tow truck at the freeway. he followed me back home almost 20 miles at which point it did the same again. we put it on his tow truck and he carried me the rest of the way to his shop. when we started the truck to remove it from the tow truck it ran beautifully and hasnt had another episode since...but ive not driven it any farther than about 5 miles from my house. ive searched the google groups for like problems and possible answers...until i came across this group. im hoping someone here can assist me with the problem. i did take the truck to a local repair shop where they let it run almost all day in order to get hot and happen again but it didnt happen and he has no idea what it might be... probably wasnt good for it to sit and run all day im not sure. anyway any help would be greatly appreciated! thanks for any assistance! bill .
From : Annonymous
mac davis mac.davis@comcast.net wrote on 31 jan 2004 195915 gmt sascheffey@aol.com sascheffey wrote dale said some guys like blondes some like redheads some like burnettes and so on and so on i might be the exceptioni like blondes redheads and brunettes. i just cant help myself. me too! i think i might be a lesbian... mac ah duh is that the same as being a lutheran .
From : roy
on mon 02 feb 2004 052050 gmt bryan swadener bryan.swadener@comcast.net wrote really which ones my wifes old honda and her current intrepid both have the parking brake in the rear. ok i havent looked at all that many fwd cars brake systems though of the ones ive seen had the parking brakes on the front axle. b gms are on the rear. that should cover a large percentage i would think. .
From : ken
either that or oc=off chart and the truck didnt like the temperatures anymore than you did. im convinced that mine has a since of humor. chris oc indicates an open circuit either in the wiring or the sensor itself. check the wiring and sensor with an ohmmeter to find the source of the problem. hope this helps! chryco service manager member sae greetings yall ive got a 1998 durango with the digital readout for temp gas mileage etc over the rear-view mirror. recently the weather has been sub- freezing for the last few weeks and when i turned on the truck one morning the compass was accurate but the temp part showed oc in the leds. not zero celcuis oc in the digits nothing in the c/f degrees area. the rest of the computer works fine. any ideas what to do or what caused it ive tried holding both buttons and resetting it to no avail. any help would be great. -- chris http//www.choxnpinz.com remove caps from e-mail address to reply .
From : greg surratt
i am trying to find out what the transmission is on a van that i am thinking of getting does anyone know if there is a vin code that will tell me if it is an a500 or an a727. it is a 1992 b350 with a 5.2l there is no transmission info in the vin. the link below shows how to identify the 727 and 904 the 518 and 500 are overdrive versions of them. the overdrive versions will have a more bulbuous tail housing. http//mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/feb/2004227988687724150229.jpg .
From : ken
bullshit. when a fwd slips a light touch of the gass usually gets it right back. when a rwd loses traction in the front your sol and better pray that nothing else is around. damn its groundhog day the pats win another superbowl and now i am agreeing with you i would never have thought a 50 or 60 series speed rated tire would be able to drive through 9-10 inches of fresh snow driving up the mountain from reno to virginia city and never spin a tire but i did it with an 86 2.2 turbo le baron gts fwd a rwd drive car with those tires would have never gotten out of the hotel parking lot. politics the gentle art of getting votes from the poor and campaign funds from the rich. .
From : ken
emergency brake used daily on a standard shift. cold here in ny. brake is still on when released. looks like 2 cables in the rear attached to one main cable. could it be the cable is frozen any tips or info on readjusting the cable would be much appreciated. tia .
From : mac davis
tbone fatchance@noway.now wrote in bryan swadener wrote also both are ...the american people are now conditioned to front-wheel drive and its superior handling in snow and ice... fwd gained popularity with automobile manufacturers due to ease of cheaper design and manufacturing; madison avenue sold it to america. it isnt better -- its just a *different* can of worms. just my observation and experience. a fwd vehicle certainly isnt easier to design or cheaper to build is it stuffing transmission and engine together then somehow bending drivetrain to the front wheels as well as addition of cv joints doesnt seem cheaper to me. i think he meant that it was easier to meet design criteria that stipulated in the late 70s that newer cars would have similar interior dimensions w/ much smaller exterior dimensions. with fwd packaging this was accomplished by removing the transmission hump and differential which was exemplified in the hatchbacks that were common then. the cars were also much lighter w/ smaller driveshafts and smaller differential. and fwd vehicles *do* have better winter traction. at least better than what the vehicle would have if the drive wheels were astern. whether that traction is good enough or not is another issue. i used to have a rwd car w/ posi and studded snow tires not all-season. id put that car up against any common fwd car in snowy/icy conditions. ;- and if the driver of the fwd car had any skill at all you would lose. nonsense. when fwd slips you lose both traction and steering. not so with rwd. with two equal drivers the rwd car with a bit of extra weight in the rear will be better in snow. bullshit. when a fwd slips a light touch of the gass usually gets it right back. when a rwd loses traction in the front your sol and better pray that nothing else is around. when they lose traction in the rear at best nothing happens but usually the front and rear of the car exchange positions and again you better pray that nothing else is around. then there is the fun of deep snow where the front wheels plow in and get a rwd hopelessly stuck. while a rwd car can be made better in the snow with the help of studded tires and more weight in the rear a fwd is still better and doesnt require modification or pre-planning. i have owned nothing but rwd cars all of my life but when my furnace failed at the end of a blizzard and i needed to get parts for it my wifes little fwd honda civic got me there where my rwd trans-am couldnt even get out of my drive way and i knew better than to even try. do ya think that the big tires and more hp might have been the reason the ta couldnt get out of the drive way. oh you said you knew better than to try. glad you know your limitations. bfg lol bite me bg. yes its big tires are part of the problem and it has them on the front as well and they plow right into the snow. i got stuck driving it in the snow a few times and although it got me home it was not fun well actually it was but not exactly safe. i knew that it wouldnt stand a chance on those roads with over a foot of snow in places. over a foot and it becomes a plow.g yea and the front spoiler is blade. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : ken
hello. quick question on a 1989 dodge ram 1/2 ton with a 318 is there a rubber gasket that goes around the thermostat i had one picked up for me and it doesnt come with one. i would like to find out before i rip the truck apart. thanks in advance. unless mopar changed things it would be a paper gasket. in a pinch you can cut one out of a wheaties cereal box -- eat the wheaties first. ^ i like to spread a thin layer of permatex aviation form-a-gasket onto the gasket -- just to be certain it wont seep. -bryan .
From : tbone
4088b6.20394502022004@svr26..prodigy.com joe avoidingspam@hotmail.com wrote tbone fatchance@noway.now wrote in if driving a fwd car youd think you can use the parking brake to straighten out of a slide but all the ones ive seen have the parking brake on the front wheels - making that useless. bryan really which ones my wifes old honda and her current intrepid both have the parking brake in the rear. ok i havent looked at all that many fwd cars brake systems though of the ones ive seen had the parking brakes on the front axle. b like i asked before which ones none of em. they all have the parking brake on the rear. not none of em the saab 900 had the parking brake built into the front brakes. i shouldve said most. theres always that bizarre exception... joe black 03 dakota 5.9 r/t cc calypso green 93 mustang 5.0 lx hatch with a few goodies .
From : roy
dude based on what youve said you dont have a clue what youre talking about and/or you dont have a clue how to drive in snow. lol and how long have you been driving two or three years feel free to believe what you want. those of us that understand simple physics and how it relates to cars know the truth. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : cricket
bullshit. when either car loses traction on the front wheels youve lost all control. the difference really is that in a rwd car you get off of the gas and hope that engine braking straightens it back out. if not you are sol. with a fwd you can give it a little more gas and if that doesnt work you can still try the rwd method with the emergency brake or a combination of both. gee it looks like the fwd has twice the ability to recover from a skid. for years weve all gotten the hard sell on how great fwd is in bad weather. bullshit. just because you choose not to believe it doesnt make it false. dude based on what youve said you dont have a clue what youre talking about and/or you dont have a clue how to drive in snow. years ago in the 70s i had an opal 1900. cant remember the year want to say about a 69 that i drove up to sun valley one winter. it was a rear wheel drive and the snow didnt slow it down one bit. in the morning it was the only 2 wheel drive car that made it out of the motel parking lot without having to be dug out. no chains btw at the same time i owned a 68 firebird convertible with wide tires that wouldnt even move in an inch of snow. i would have to say there are many factors that determine whether a car is a good snow vehicle or not. front or rear wheel drive is not the determining factor by any means. bill .
From : spike13
if its running and you are not getting fuel to the rail it has to be. now it could be a plugged filter damaged pickup or bad regulator but in your truck and mine they are all part of the same assembly and all in the tank and no way to check it short of buying a fi fuel pressure test kit and connect it to the rail. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving so you think my fuel pump is the culprit no way to check it but put one in right i just paid it off it was a second hand truck and this started... bill if you are sure that it is not getting fuel into the fuel rail when it acts up what the hell does a magnetic pickup in the distributor have to do with that that pickup as you call it is the camshaft position sensor and controls the fuel injection synchronization. this could be the problem with the ops engine and possibly yours but it has no control over the fuel pump itself other to indicate to the pcm to shut it down. if you are sure that you are not getting fuel into the rail and you can hear the pump running then your problem is in the pump itself no if and or butts about it. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving dont feel badi have a 96 doing exactly the same thing. i did notice that i could let it sit and idle all day but once i drove it a certain distance it would mess up just as you describe. yours may not be flooding as mine doesnt get any fuel into the fuel rail when it acts up but the pump can still be heard running when it does this so i bet thats what yours is doing too. i put a new coil on after i was told that was the problem but it wasnt. the voltage to the fuel pump seems good too so im not going to put a $200+ pump in it until absolutely positive. my next try is going to be the magnetic pickup under the distributor for shits & giggles as i have a new one available so well see. im just not in the mood to play with that damn cap/rotor again tough to get at...but i will. hello...i have a 1995 dodge 4x4. recently after a trip down the freeway i turned off and started up a mountain highway and suddenly my truck seemed to lose all power. i pulled off the road and it sat and idled but it was running very badly. if i tried to give it gas it would act as though it was flooding...it would begin to rev up but after it got to a certain point it would run very bad. i called a tow truck and while waiting i started it back up and it seemed to be running normal. i drove back off the mountain and met the tow truck at the freeway. he followed me back home almost 20 miles at which point it did the same again. we put it on his tow truck and he carried me the rest of the way to his shop. when we started the truck to remove it from the tow truck it ran beautifully and hasnt had another episode since...but ive not driven it any farther than about 5 miles from my house. ive searched the google groups for like problems and possible answers...until i came across this group. im hoping someone here can assist me with the problem. i did take the truck to a local repair shop where they let it run almost all day in order to get hot and happen again but it didnt happen and he has no idea what it might be... probably wasnt good for it to sit and run all day im not sure. anyway any help would be greatly appreciated! thanks for any assistance! bill .
From : roy
bullshit. when either car loses traction on the front wheels youve lost all control. the difference really is that in a rwd car you get off of the gas and hope that engine braking straightens it back out. if not you are sol. with a fwd you can give it a little more gas and if that doesnt work you can still try the rwd method with the emergency brake or a combination of both. gee it looks like the fwd has twice the ability to recover from a skid. for years weve all gotten the hard sell on how great fwd is in bad weather. bullshit. just because you choose not to believe it doesnt make it false. dude based on what youve said you dont have a clue what youre talking about and/or you dont have a clue how to drive in snow. years ago in the 70s i had an opal 1900. cant remember the year want to say about a 69 that i drove up to sun valley one winter. it was a rear wheel drive and the snow didnt slow it down one bit. in the morning it was the only 2 wheel drive car that made it out of the motel parking lot without having to be dug out. no chains btw at the same time i owned a 68 firebird convertible with wide tires that wouldnt even move in an inch of snow. i would have to say there are many factors that determine whether a car is a good snow vehicle or not. front or rear wheel drive is not the determining factor by any means. bill lol! and how many front wheel drive cars were in the lot at the time in the 70s i would say about none. if rear wheel drive vehicles are so capable in the snow why was yours the only one to get out all things being equal a front wheel drive vehicle will have superior performance in the snow period. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : ken
good evening i am sending you this message because i wanted to notify you that www.canadianoffroad.com is once again back up and running. unlike last time we require very little information about yourself to register on it. currently the only thing available on the site is the message forum but it is now very broad to cover all brands of vehicles. every make of vehicle has there own dedicated section of the board but we also feature global forums which allow anyone to send messages that cover more then just their own brand. other features that were once on the site will be added when my time is more available. this message is only being sent out to a small number of people to help me weed out any bugs that you may find currently on the cut down website. if any errors are detected then please send me a copy of the error as a screen copy. it would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance for checking it out! cheers! http//www.canadianoffroad.com .
From : greg surratt
roy wrote well will one of you folks please explain to me why it is that these supposedly super traction fwd cars are on their roof as regularly as they are dont know that they really are. given that it seems a large percent of current car models and models of the past 20 years seem to be fwd i would expect a high probability of fwd cars in the ditch after a snow storm. id expect a high probability of fwd cars running red lights too but id be very surprised if that were due to fwd. there seems to be a switch to rwd under way right now. dont know if its just moving to something different or if dry road acceleration performance is now a dominant marketing factor. smh .
From : john a stephens
tbone fatchance@noway.now wrote in dude based on what youve said you dont have a clue what youre talking about and/or you dont have a clue how to drive in snow. lol and how long have you been driving two or three years chances are a lot more than you. with your severe lack of knowledge in fwd handling and operations i doubt that. feel free to believe what you want. those of us that understand simple physics and how it relates to cars know the truth. my point exactly. you just dont get it and probably never will. lol let me ask you something. is that dakota a 4wd and if so what do you do if the front starts plowing sliding on a curve in the snow -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .