Help please.. no headlights!
From : diane
Q: went to leave work last night and discovered my headlights werent working. i checked the fuses checked relays in pdc checked the bulbs... all appeared fine. running lights turn signals hazard lights dash lights all fully functional but i get no high beam indicator light on dash and no headlights at all. i played with both the headlight on/off switch and the high/low beam switch and that didnt help. my truck is a 1996 dodge ram 2500 diesel. a guy at my work hardwired the headlight bulbs one to each battery and put a clip on the wire so i could easily turn the lights on and off until i can get it fixed... money is a problem at the moment. of course it works... its a bit of a pain and i get some funny looks but i have lights. i have pretty much come to the conclusion that its either in the headlight switch or the multi-function switch on the steering column but im not sure which is more likely. ive been doing some reading here and now im even less sure which one it may be. anyone out there with an idea on how to determine which switch is bad and is this something possible to replace myself i know that a new headlight switch runs under $20 but i havent priced the multi-function switch yet. and im a little afraid to - it just looks pricey! thanks in advance for any help! .
Replies:
From : tbone
the multi-function switch has a high beam flash to pass capability. pull the lever all the way back and hold it and see if the headlights come on. if so then i would look at the headlight switch as the probable cause although without a multi-meter and the wiring diagram for your truck it is all just a guess. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving went to leave work last night and discovered my headlights werent working. i checked the fuses checked relays in pdc checked the bulbs... all appeared fine. running lights turn signals hazard lights dash lights all fully functional but i get no high beam indicator light on dash and no headlights at all. i played with both the headlight on/off switch and the high/low beam switch and that didnt help. my truck is a 1996 dodge ram 2500 diesel. a guy at my work hardwired the headlight bulbs one to each battery and put a clip on the wire so i could easily turn the lights on and off until i can get it fixed... money is a problem at the moment. of course it works... its a bit of a pain and i get some funny looks but i have lights. i have pretty much come to the conclusion that its either in the headlight switch or the multi-function switch on the steering column but im not sure which is more likely. ive been doing some reading here and now im even less sure which one it may be. anyone out there with an idea on how to determine which switch is bad and is this something possible to replace myself i know that a new headlight switch runs under $20 but i havent priced the multi-function switch yet. and im a little afraid to - it just looks pricey! thanks in advance for any help! .
From : tbonetbone
very interesting tom. i did notice that they were specifically talking about e-mail. they didnt mention groups and i wonder if it was because they just dont know that there is a difference or that they are specifically targeting one and not the other. when e-mail is involved you must directly send propositions to another specific person and it hard to justify the creation of a mailing list when the person sending the offer already knows who you are. sending posts in a group is anonymous and has a form of isolation since you dont know who if anyone will respond and you very well could be creating the bs list. it is also much harder to establish the pyramid since there is no direct contact or easily traceable line between the participants. but it could simply be that they think of e-mail and groups as the same thing. fortunately i was never dumb enough to get involved in any of them. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving once again you post mis-information. while it is based on a pyramid scheme it is not illegal. why you ask because they are capitalizing on a loophole in the law. ya see they are building a mailing list and therefore providing a service. well apparently the ag of new york disagrees with you http//legal.web.aol.com/resources/pyramid/vaccowarns.html .
From : joe blow
there is a recall on the 96 diesel trucks headlight switch. if the recall hasnt been performed you may be in luck. as you stated the switch itself is under $20.00 but the dealer parts drones usually cant find that number the one they can find comes with the harness and that ones pricey last i knew about $70.00 went to leave work last night and discovered my headlights werent working. i checked the fuses checked relays in pdc checked the bulbs... all appeared fine. running lights turn signals hazard lights dash lights all fully functional but i get no high beam indicator light on dash and no headlights at all. i played with both the headlight on/off switch and the high/low beam switch and that didnt help. my truck is a 1996 dodge ram 2500 diesel. a guy at my work hardwired the headlight bulbs one to each battery and put a clip on the wire so i could easily turn the lights on and off until i can get it fixed... money is a problem at the moment. of course it works... its a bit of a pain and i get some funny looks but i have lights. i have pretty much come to the conclusion that its either in the headlight switch or the multi-function switch on the steering column but im not sure which is more likely. ive been doing some reading here and now im even less sure which one it may be. anyone out there with an idea on how to determine which switch is bad and is this something possible to replace myself i know that a new headlight switch runs under $20 but i havent priced the multi-function switch yet. and im a little afraid to - it just looks pricey! thanks in advance for any help! .
From : diane
thanks tbone... i have no headlights at all even the flash to pass thing doesnt work. this would perhaps suggest that the multi-function switch is the culprit the multi-function switch has a high beam flash to pass capability. pull the lever all the way back and hold it and see if the headlights come on. if so then i would look at the headlight switch as the probable cause although without a multi-meter and the wiring diagram for your truck it is all just a guess. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving went to leave work last night and discovered my headlights werent working. i checked the fuses checked relays in pdc checked the bulbs... all appeared fine. running lights turn signals hazard lights dash lights all fully functional but i get no high beam indicator light on dash and no headlights at all. i played with both the headlight on/off switch and the high/low beam switch and that didnt help. my truck is a 1996 dodge ram 2500 diesel. a guy at my work hardwired the headlight bulbs one to each battery and put a clip on the wire so i could easily turn the lights on and off until i can get it fixed... money is a problem at the moment. of course it works... its a bit of a pain and i get some funny looks but i have lights. i have pretty much come to the conclusion that its either in the headlight switch or the multi-function switch on the steering column but im not sure which is more likely. ive been doing some reading here and now im even less sure which one it may be. anyone out there with an idea on how to determine which switch is bad and is this something possible to replace myself i know that a new headlight switch runs under $20 but i havent priced the multi-function switch yet. and im a little afraid to - it just looks pricey! thanks in advance for any help! .
From : tbone
actually now that i am looking at the wiring diagram it could still be the headlight switch causing the problem. i believe that fuse 6 is the headlights and i would look there first. since it is a 40 amp fuse it should be easy to spot. check it with a continuity tester since it may look good and still be bad. from there the power goes to the headlamp switch. the headlamp switch then sends 2 separate power leads to the mf switch 1 for standard headlamps and the other for the flash circuit. since neither one is working it looks like mf switch is not getting power on either one and this points to the headlight switch sorry for misleading you. as tom mentioned in his post explaining how to remove the headlight switch his connector also failed and this might be what is happening to you. the best suggestion that i can give you is to follow the path of the current while looking for the problem. if you have a meter check for power at the fuse and if the fuse is good first. if you look at these fuses you will see the tiny metal tabs on the back of them. these tabs allow you to check for continuity and voltage without removing it. just check for voltage on both of these tabs and if it is there the fuse is good and has power. the next step will be to follow toms directions to get to the headlight switch and inspect it. check for voltage on the red / light green wire. if you have fairly long probes on your meter you can usually check for voltage through the back of the connector without unplugging it. you should also see 12 volts on the light green / white wire while connected to the headlight switch and if not the switch is shot. turn the headlight switch on and look for power on the light green wire. if the headlight switch checks out then the probability is very high that the mf switch is cooked since it is unlikely that both the low and high beam wiring harnesses failed at the same time. good luck. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving thanks tbone... i have no headlights at all even the flash to pass thing doesnt work. this would perhaps suggest that the multi-function switch is the culprit the multi-function switch has a high beam flash to pass capability. pull the lever all the way back and hold it and see if the headlights come on. if so then i would look at the headlight switch as the probable cause although without a multi-meter and the wiring diagram for your truck it is all just a guess. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving went to leave work last night and discovered my headlights werent working. i checked the fuses checked relays in pdc checked the bulbs... all appeared fine. running lights turn signals hazard lights dash lights all fully functional but i get no high beam indicator light on dash and no headlights at all. i played with both the headlight on/off switch and the high/low beam switch and that didnt help. my truck is a 1996 dodge ram 2500 diesel. a guy at my work hardwired the headlight bulbs one to each battery and put a clip on the wire so i could easily turn the lights on and off until i can get it fixed... money is a problem at the moment. of course it works... its a bit of a pain and i get some funny looks but i have lights. i have pretty much come to the conclusion that its either in the headlight switch or the multi-function switch on the steering column but im not sure which is more likely. ive been doing some reading here and now im even less sure which one it may be. anyone out there with an idea on how to determine which switch is bad and is this something possible to replace myself i know that a new headlight switch runs under $20 but i havent priced the multi-function switch yet. and im a little afraid to - it just looks pricey! thanks in advance for any help! .
From : tom lawrence
this doesnt happen too often were both wrong. well technically all i said was that the recall wasnt just for diesels see that hair split right down the middle aint it i wonder if the additional marker lights on the 3500s is what was causing a current overload on the wiring leading to the melted connectors/fires then hmmm.... im trying to remember which terminal on my headlight switch connector was fried. cant remember if it was for the parking lights or the headlights. in any case we can agree that its just plain dumb to run lighting current through a switch and not use relays. too bad it took the addiiton of a computer-controlled lighting environment in the 3rd gens to address this problem now we have all sorts of new shit that can go wrong and leave us without headlights! im starting to think the wires from the headlights to an alligator clip that you attach right to the battery is probably the best method. course itll suck for those of us in jersey and the wipers on lights on law here .
From : diane
wow tbone thanks! i just posted a message to tom and missed seeing this post of yours. im still new at the format here... sorry between the two of you and your instructions tracing this down should be fairly simple. for my friend with the tester to do ; i guess i better find out what kind of beer he likes eh thanks again to all... you guys are awesome! ps... i think the diagram in my owners manual said #7 is the maxi-fuse for the headlamps. it is a 40 amp green at any rate. i didnt see any fuses of this type in my trip to the parts store for alligator clips wire etc... i suppose this is a dealer item eek! i can just imagine what *they* get for one of those puppies. actually now that i am looking at the wiring diagram it could still be the headlight switch causing the problem. i believe that fuse 6 is the headlights and i would look there first. since it is a 40 amp fuse it should be easy to spot. check it with a continuity tester since it may look good and still be bad. from there the power goes to the headlamp switch. the headlamp switch then sends 2 separate power leads to the mf switch 1 for standard headlamps and the other for the flash circuit. since neither one is working it looks like mf switch is not getting power on either one and this points to the headlight switch sorry for misleading you. as tom mentioned in his post explaining how to remove the headlight switch his connector also failed and this might be what is happening to you. the best suggestion that i can give you is to follow the path of the current while looking for the problem. if you have a meter check for power at the fuse and if the fuse is good first. if you look at these fuses you will see the tiny metal tabs on the back of them. these tabs allow you to check for continuity and voltage without removing it. just check for voltage on both of these tabs and if it is there the fuse is good and has power. the next step will be to follow toms directions to get to the headlight switch and inspect it. check for voltage on the red / light green wire. if you have fairly long probes on your meter you can usually check for voltage through the back of the connector without unplugging it. you should also see 12 volts on the light green / white wire while connected to the headlight switch and if not the switch is shot. turn the headlight switch on and look for power on the light green wire. if the headlight switch checks out then the probability is very high that the mf switch is cooked since it is unlikely that both the low and high beam wiring harnesses failed at the same time. good luck. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving thanks tbone... i have no headlights at all even the flash to pass thing doesnt work. this would perhaps suggest that the multi-function switch is the culprit the multi-function switch has a high beam flash to pass capability. pull the lever all the way back and hold it and see if the headlights come on. if so then i would look at the headlight switch as the probable cause although without a multi-meter and the wiring diagram for your truck it is all just a guess. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving went to leave work last night and discovered my headlights werent working. i checked the fuses checked relays in pdc checked the bulbs... all appeared fine. running lights turn signals hazard lights dash lights all fully functional but i get no high beam indicator light on dash and no headlights at all. i played with both the headlight on/off switch and the high/low beam switch and that didnt help. my truck is a 1996 dodge ram 2500 diesel. a guy at my work hardwired the headlight bulbs one to each battery and put a clip on the wire so i could easily turn the lights on and off until i can get it fixed... money is a problem at the moment. of course it works... its a bit of a pain and i get some funny looks but i have lights. i have pretty much come to the conclusion that its either in the headlight switch or the multi-function switch on the steering column but im not sure which is more likely. ive been doing some reading here and now im even less sure which one it may be. anyone out there with an idea on how to determine which switch is bad and is this something possible to replace myself i know that a new headlight switch runs under $20 but i havent priced the multi-function switch yet. and im a little afraid to - it just looks pricey! thanks in advance for any help! .
From : tbone
radio shack should have that fuse. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving wow tbone thanks! i just posted a message to tom and missed seeing this post of yours. im still new at the format here... sorry between the two of you and your instructions tracing this down should be fairly simple. for my friend with the tester to do ; i guess i better find out what kind of beer he likes eh thanks again to all... you guys are awesome! ps... i think the diagram in my owners manual said #7 is the maxi-fuse for the headlamps. it is a 40 amp green at any rate. i didnt see any fuses of this type in my trip to the parts store for alligator clips wire etc... i suppose this is a dealer item eek! i can just imagine what *they* get for one of those puppies. actually now that i am looking at the wiring diagram it could still be the headlight switch causing the problem. i believe that fuse 6 is the headlights and i would look there first. since it is a 40 amp fuse it should be easy to spot. check it with a continuity tester since it may look good and still be bad. from there the power goes to the headlamp switch. the headlamp switch then sends 2 separate power leads to the mf switch 1 for standard headlamps and the other for the flash circuit. since neither one is working it looks like mf switch is not getting power on either one and this points to the headlight switch sorry for misleading you. as tom mentioned in his post explaining how to remove the headlight switch his connector also failed and this might be what is happening to you. the best suggestion that i can give you is to follow the path of the current while looking for the problem. if you have a meter check for power at the fuse and if the fuse is good first. if you look at these fuses you will see the tiny metal tabs on the back of them. these tabs allow you to check for continuity and voltage without removing it. just check for voltage on both of these tabs and if it is there the fuse is good and has power. the next step will be to follow toms directions to get to the headlight switch and inspect it. check for voltage on the red / light green wire. if you have fairly long probes on your meter you can usually check for voltage through the back of the connector without unplugging it. you should also see 12 volts on the light green / white wire while connected to the headlight switch and if not the switch is shot. turn the headlight switch on and look for power on the light green wire. if the headlight switch checks out then the probability is very high that the mf switch is cooked since it is unlikely that both the low and high beam wiring harnesses failed at the same time. good luck. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving thanks tbone... i have no headlights at all even the flash to pass thing doesnt work. this would perhaps suggest that the multi-function switch is the culprit the multi-function switch has a high beam flash to pass capability. pull the lever all the way back and hold it and see if the headlights come on. if so then i would look at the headlight switch as the probable cause although without a multi-meter and the wiring diagram for your truck it is all just a guess. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving went to leave work last night and discovered my headlights werent working. i checked the fuses checked relays in pdc checked the bulbs... all appeared fine. running lights turn signals hazard lights dash lights all fully functional but i get no high beam indicator light on dash and no headlights at all. i played with both the headlight on/off switch and the high/low beam switch and that didnt help. my truck is a 1996 dodge ram 2500 diesel. a guy at my work hardwired the headlight bulbs one to each battery and put a clip on the wire so i could easily turn the lights on and off until i can get it fixed... money is a problem at the moment. of course it works... its a bit of a pain and i get some funny looks but i have lights. i have pretty much come to the conclusion that its either in the headlight switch or the multi-function switch on the steering column but im not sure which is more likely. ive been doing some reading here and now im even less sure which one it may be. anyone out there with an idea on how to determine which switch is bad and is this something possible to replace myself i know that a new headlight switch runs under $20 but i havent priced the multi-function switch yet. and im a little afraid to - it just looks pricey! thanks in advance for any help! .
From : tom lawrence
i priced the headlight switch at a local dodge dealer yesterday....$94.00!!!!! the guy laughed at me when after a brief stunned silence i said holy shit! that better be the installed price. heh heh... dontcha just love dealerships ac delco and standard motor products both make a replacement switch. $15 for the ac delco $23 for the smp.... available through http//www.rockauto.com i love this site - lots of parts good prices and even pictures of the parts so you know what the hell youre getting or... if you want a chrysler part - you can get it from a dealership whos not out to rip you off. click here http//www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfmaction=getlocator&siteid=213794&chapter=dp3039&appsectionid=3&groupid=10009&subgroupid=20137&componentid=60712&make=8&model=ram%202500%20pickup&year=1996&catalogid=1 they want a whole $16. any of the above should be a bit easier to swallow than the local dealers $94 sticker shock .
From : diane
wow tom... you rock! so what kind of beer do *you* drink ; j/k... but thanks so much for all the info! i priced the headlight switch at a local dodge dealer yesterday....$94.00!!!!! the guy laughed at me when after a brief stunned silence i said holy shit! that better be the installed price. heh heh... dontcha just love dealerships ac delco and standard motor products both make a replacement switch. $15 for the ac delco $23 for the smp.... available through http//www.rockauto.com i love this site - lots of parts good prices and even pictures of the parts so you know what the hell youre getting or... if you want a chrysler part - you can get it from a dealership whos not out to rip you off. click here http//www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfmaction=getlocator&siteid=213794&chapter=dp3039&appsectionid=3&groupid=10009&subgroupid=20137&componentid=60712&make=8&model=ram%202500%20pickup&year=1996&catalogid=1 they want a whole $16. any of the above should be a bit easier to swallow than the local dealers $94 sticker shock .
From : mac davis
on wed 26 nov 2003 000130 gmt tom lawrence tnloaswpraemnmcien5g@earthlink.net wrote radio shack should have that fuse. unfortunately no... but i did find them listed at http//www.rockauto.com for $1.98 each. napa also lists them between $3.29 and $3.49. part number is flfxx where xx is the amperage 20 30 40 or 50. yep.. i replaced the one for the brake lights with one from napa... .
From : chas stokes
tnloaswpraemnmcien5g@earthlink.net says... i priced the headlight switch at a local dodge dealer yesterday....$94.00!!!!! the guy laughed at me when after a brief stunned silence i said holy shit! that better be the installed price. heh heh... dontcha just love dealerships i can relate to that. my hood latch broke on my 90 c/v i figured i was going to get nailed big at the dealer. was only like $7.50. when my front engine mount bracket broke not the mount but the bracket i figured it could not be that much. after all the hood latch had moving parts and springs and everything and was only $7.50. hmmm $53 for a bent piece of metal with holes in it! grrrr. did i mention i hate changing motor mounts chas .