Headers for an 86 Ramcharger
From : redhornet
Q: use 10w30. pressure means nothing flow means everything. your engine use very small clearances hence the lower viscosity oil. do not use 20-50 inadequate flow will be the result at the front of the engine. your sludge story is a wives tail. sludge is common when inadequate warming of the oil occurs. it is created because condensated water combines with the residual sulfer in the oil. this creates sulfuric acid which corrodes the oil and turns the oil to sludge. this process can occur with any brand oil that contains sulfur. this condition is normally caused by people who remove the thermostat. did you do that steve my truck calls for 10w-30 and in florida i dont need to worry about operation below freezing hardly at all. i have been running 20w-50 in most of my trucks because it often sees operation in temperatures above 90 degrees and above 100 in the summer. i know that on startu-up 10w-30 reaches the bearings quicker but wouldnt 20w-50 give it more protection in high heat conditions also i noticed the new 5w-30 oils out there. all data has the 5w-30 listed as an option in my truck. is there any advantage to 5w-30 over the others i would think the thinner oil wouldnt protect as well under harsh conditions like 4 wheeling or towing a trailer. i would appreciate you comments. i currently run castrol 20w-50. i would never use quaker state after rebuilding my fair share of quaker state engines with an inch or two of sludge build up from the parafins in qs. .
Replies:
From : budd cochran
lugnut wrote i generally lurk and do not post in the dodge group but since you brought up the ford 351 engine with which i have at least a passing interest and knowledge of i will take a shot at getting flamed here. are you kidding im just happy were not talking about god for a change. your problem was not the hv pump. it was a bad rear seal which was probably a result of excessive wear of the rear main which in turn was probably a result of the inadequate oiling of the rear main in the 335 series ford engines. i have seen this a number of times during overhaul. first this was 20 years ago so i will try with the best of my ability to remember all of the facts. i put the high volume pump on when i rebuilt the engine. i replaced all of the seals bearings etc. so im reasonably certain that the real seal was not bad. i put the high volume pump in not because i had any solid logical reason. since i put in a slightly above factory spec cam and an holly 4 barrel carb and edelbrock intake to replace the factory 2 barrel carb and intake. i figured ... hey im rebuilding this thing with spicier parts why not a high volume pump so thats what i did. result was as i originally stated oil blowing out of the rear seal. i talked to some mechanics that were friends of the family wayne calvert builds racing engines in denton tx and his brother that has a shop next to his that does shade tree work. it was suggested that i use from what i recall some type of rope style seal to prevent it. i never go that far ... i wrecked it and never worked on it again. craig c. .
From : budd cochran
i am looking to buy an electric hoist for the shop and was wondering what the average weught of a v-8 was. they are rated 440lb / 880lb / 1 ton / etc. i dont think i have ever ran across the weight of an average long block. i would thinkk the 880lb would cover the engine alone w/o trans. .
From : bryan
hi all i have a 95 ram 2500 and it wont always start if it sits too long. i have to turn the key to the on position and wait 10-15 minutes sometimes longer before i hear chatter coming from the ignition coil. ive change that but still no success. new batter new starter. i have an auto starter on it and its about 2 years old. no problems with that unit and it still works. i heard that may be the problem but i dont see how. there was a former posting explaining the exact problem i have but it never showed the answer. does anyone have any ideas on how to resolve this it sounds common. heres the old thread... my problem started as a nuisance and progressively worsened into a disabled vehicle. i have a 1994 dodge b2500 ram van 3.9 l mpfi with 88k. a few months ago it would occasionally crank excessively and finally fire up. i found this got worse and more frequent. when cold the fuel would take some time to prime usually about 10 - 20 seconds. once hot the motor would start on the first crank and continue to fire up through out the day. the problem only occurred when the engine was cold. i have since replaced the spark plugs wires air cleaner pcv valve breather distributor cap and rotor and finally the fuel pump. i also tested the operation of the map crankshaft postion sensor camshaft position sensor throttle position sensor and the idle air control. this did not fix the problem. it may have created a new one. now it takes approximately 2- 10 minutes to prime the fuel. a pressure tester shows 40 psi at the fuel rail once primed. now however the autoshutdown and the fuel pump relays chatter for several minutes. they toggle on and off very quickly - several times per second. while this happens the fuel pressure climbs and when it reaches 40 psi the relays stop clicking and the ignition is enabled. once the relays stop making noise the motor turns right over and fires up easily. i tried to ground the relay pcm ground wire dk blue with yellow stripe directly to negative battery terminal. this forced the fuel pump on but would not allow me to start the engine. i assume this is because although i had fuel pressure i had no spark. it would not fire until the jumper was disconnected and the relays were allowed to continue chattering until they stopped. the diagnostics show a code 12 - pcm voltage and a 45 overdrive solenoid. i finally took it to the dealer who spent a few minute with it but once the tech realized i had installed an aftermarket alarm and remote starter he would not investigate any further. i realize the wiring modifications could cause the intermittent power failure but theyre not new - theyve been working fine for four years. and if it was the cause why would it only occur when the engine is cold i have checked the wiring connections and all appear ok. the dealer said i would have to disconnect the systems before tehy will analyze any further. i am willing to do this but in the meantime it now stalls ive been able to live with the starting issue. it only takes a few extra minutes to prime the pump. since this problem only occurs after teh van sits for a long period of time ive spent weeks trying to troubleshoot it! once the motor is warm it starts fine. but nowperhaps i screwed up something while troubleshooting the engine wont accelerate smoothly past idle speed. if i give it a little gas it sputters rather violently and then stalls. if i give it a lot of gas it sputters and revs past the stalling point and then it runs ok. well i have lost a lot of power now and i keep the van in the driveway until i can figure this mess out. i have monitored the voltage coming off the tps and it consistenly increases from 0.6vdc when closed up to 3.6 when the throttle is open. even through the stalling point. it seems to be vacuum related although vacuum is steady at 17 in hg. i relaize theis may be kind of low. it was 18 in hg when i first started messing with it but its been rock steady the whole time. i believe have two separate issues although they may be related. i thought if i spent the money the dealer five star expert techs would be able to tell me what the runnablity issue was with stalling above idle speed. unfortunately they wont go past the starting situation. why am i stalling .
From : budd cochran
on mon 11 dec 2006 090242 -0600 ringer byoung@peoplestel.net wrote i recently found out my 2000 ram 1500 v6 has a fuel filter on the fuel pump in the fuel tank. a mechanic put it on the computer and the code came back that something was wrong in the fuel system that was making it shake rattle and roll. he suggested i change the gas cap but that didnt work. why does dodge and some other manufacturers put the filter on the pump if thats the problem it could costs $800 to fix. if you think it may be the intake sock that is clogged i have blown them off using an air hose to force pressure back through the fuel supply line. i f that fixes it then just add an external inline fuel filter. thats a great idea. thanks. .
From : bryan
toofarmike wrote my 1967 dodge d100 pick-up has been plagued with electrical problems since last summer. it started with a strange smell i found out later was the amp meter burning that would last for about 10 minutes every other day 2 or 3 weeks before the electrical system completely shut down without warning usually while sitting at a light. after letting it sit for a while maybe 10 min. to 2 hours it would start up and run for 5 minutes to 5 hours. if i started it in the morning and ran to 7-11 it will not start for at least 10 minutes and maybe 1 hour. when i turn the key absolutely nothing happens. no accessories work including lights and bypassing the starter relay will allow the starter to turn over but no spark to run the engine. while it is running it charges the battery. i change the starter relay voltage regulator & resister block but nothing changes. after noticing the amp meter is on fire one day i tear it out and seems to fix the problem but it starts dieing again the next day. i change the ignition switch and notice that when i play with the head light switch and turn the key in the ignition at the same time something catches and it starts up. i drive it like this for a week and then change the headlight switch and put in a new amp meter. this fixes most of the problem the truck no longer dies and the alternator charges the battery. the dash lights had never worked since i bought the truck and now they work but blinkers horn & heater do not work. it runs like that for about 2 weeks until one day all the accessories shut down including all gauges the things working are the head and tail lights break lights and the low break warning light on the dash. and the battery drains while running with lights on. by charging the battery at night it can be driven during daylight hours. i change the alternator that shucks says is bad but does not fix anything and try another battery. then one day it would not start at all and the battery would drain even when just sitting overnight. i noticed that when i pulled the headlight switch the parking lights blinkers not blinking would come on in the first position but in second position would go out when headlights came on. i changed out the headlight switch again and charged up the battery and it started right up. i drove it 2 miles and turned it off. it would not start again and i bought a new battery. when i turn the key the engine starts running but dies as soon as i let the key go back and disengage the starter. bypassing the starter relay makes the starter turn but no spark starts the engine. i changed the ignition switch but still will not run. i have a wiring diagram and have started replacing some wires with no luck. still runs only while key is turned all the way to start position. all accessories and gauges do work now when the key is turned one notch or backwards. it is a slant 6 automatic with no radio or cigarette lighter. i have changed the battery battery cables starter relay amp meter ignition switch voltage regulator resister block alternator headlight switch wire from alternator to voltage regulator and all fuses. does anyone have any ideas or should i put a bullet through the engine block start by finding a factory wiring diagram better yet a complete factory service manual. http//www.moparmanuals.com/ shows it available on cdrom #81-370-7350 for $65. if you intend to keep the truck this would be an excellent investment. if you dont intend to keep the truck it adds a selling point! a vehicle this old likely has oxidized connections almost everywhere. disconnect & inspect every connection you can find. while some advocate eliminating the ammeter it can be left in place if its not open-circuit and the connections are clean & tight. connections thru the firewall are also problematic particularly the two that connect to the 12ga wires. even the *slightest* poor connection in these will cause problems. the dead giveaway is the melted/distorted housings for these connections. then one day it would not start at all and the battery would drain even when just sitting overnight. the battery going dead on its own is symptomatic of a separate problem... either a bad battery or something not switched by the ignition switch is draining it. check the specific gravity of the electrolyte in the battery. fully charged all six cells should be above about 1.25 and close to each other. terminal voltage should be above about 12.5v. if that looks good connect the battery with a milliammeter in series and you should see zero current flowing -- a cheapo radioshack vom will work. if you have *any* current flowing start disconnecting usually aftermarket or miswired oem items until you see zero load. bryan .
From : budd cochran
get a new wiring harness before you burn that truck to the ground. you might check with the hot rod aftermarket companies for a generic harness if you cant find a repop. budd my 1967 dodge d100 pick-up has been plagued with electrical problems since last summer. it started with a strange smell i found out later was the amp meter burning that would last for about 10 minutes every other day 2 or 3 weeks before the electrical system completely shut down without warning usually while sitting at a light. after letting it sit for a while maybe 10 min. to 2 hours it would start up and run for 5 minutes to 5 hours. if i started it in the morning and ran to 7-11 it will not start for at least 10 minutes and maybe 1 hour. when i turn the key absolutely nothing happens. no accessories work including lights and bypassing the starter relay will allow the starter to turn over but no spark to run the engine. while it is running it charges the battery. i change the starter relay voltage regulator & resister block but nothing changes. after noticing the amp meter is on fire one day i tear it out and seems to fix the problem but it starts dieing again the next day. i change the ignition switch and notice that when i play with the head light switch and turn the key in the ignition at the same time something catches and it starts up. i drive it like this for a week and then change the headlight switch and put in a new amp meter. this fixes most of the problem the truck no longer dies and the alternator charges the battery. the dash lights had never worked since i bought the truck and now they work but blinkers horn & heater do not work. it runs like that for about 2 weeks until one day all the accessories shut down including all gauges the things working are the head and tail lights break lights and the low break warning light on the dash. and the battery drains while running with lights on. by charging the battery at night it can be driven during daylight hours. i change the alternator that shucks says is bad but does not fix anything and try another battery. then one day it would not start at all and the battery would drain even when just sitting overnight. i noticed that when i pulled the headlight switch the parking lights blinkers not blinking would come on in the first position but in second position would go out when headlights came on. i changed out the headlight switch again and charged up the battery and it started right up. i drove it 2 miles and turned it off. it would not start again and i bought a new battery. when i turn the key the engine starts running but dies as soon as i let the key go back and disengage the starter. bypassing the starter relay makes the starter turn but no spark starts the engine. i changed the ignition switch but still will not run. i have a wiring diagram and have started replacing some wires with no luck. still runs only while key is turned all the way to start position. all accessories and gauges do work now when the key is turned one notch or backwards. it is a slant 6 automatic with no radio or cigarette lighter. i have changed the battery battery cables starter relay amp meter ignition switch voltage regulator resister block alternator headlight switch wire from alternator to voltage regulator and all fuses. does anyone have any ideas or should i put a bullet through the engine block -- posted via a free usenet account from http//www.tera.com .
From : bigironram ramworker tx rr com
correction that would be the 3.9-5.2 and 5.9 magnum engines. sorry lazy fingers. budd hedman headers references a set of ceramic headers that will fit the a-type engine for my year. 360 4bbl how do i determine what the a-type is and whether i have it. it does not seem to be vin # related according to the vin decoders i located via google for my year. automatic transmission maybe -- posted via a free usenet account from http//www.tera.com .