Hard brakes at startup

From : bknighted

Q: found decent headliner adhesive that wont bleed through. was thinking about the stage 2 hp chip from summit. might have another issue with the flowmaster on the truck theres no top end. i m not sure if ive lost back pressure or what. just seems like the powers getting lost somewhere. .

Replies:

From : det

so a rare or expensive car is ok. but shouldnt the rest still be worth at least scrap metal price if sold as a flooded car without warranty. but how much should that so called rare or expensive flooded car be worth being it will even take more to put it back together right and then will always have the tag on it as a once flooded restored car. maybe they should have just pushed them all into the ocean in a row and on top of each other to make the new dike. big earl wrote i found this article at http//autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/collectorcarcentral/ and i thought it might be helpful with all the jerks trying to sell flood damaged cars. thanks earl in this edition of tech revving we are going to look at a very timely topic. flooded cars. with the 2 major hurricanes that hit the gulf coast region there has been wide spread flooding. though the official numbers arent in yet you can bet that there will be many ten thousands to one hundred thousands of cars that were caught in the flood waters. while most of these cars will be towed and scrapped by the insurance companies many of them will be sold and some will be sold by unscrupulous dealers who dont let the customer know the car was involved in a flood. in this article we will look at how to identify a flooded car what to do with one and what happens when a car is caught in a flood. one of the first steps is to run a vin code report on the car. if and only if the car went through an insurance claim then there is a possibility that it will show up on this report. you can run a free vin check on our website at http//www.westcoastsportscars.com/brittonliquidation.html however a vin check is only the first step. physical inspection of the car is the most crucial point. only use the vin as a first step to weed out unnecessary physical inspection trips. any car you buy for the next year should undergo a flood inspection unless you are buying it from a dealer you trust. to look for flood damage take the following steps. 1 check the engine crankcase oil using the oil dipstick. if the oil is cloudy or milky that is a sign of water in the crankcase. if the oil is perfect a nice clear yellow that is a sign of freshly changed oil and might be a red flag. 2 check under the carpets. dont be afraid to peel the carpet back from the area just below the front seats. look for areas of silt sand heavy dirt or water marks. a flooded car gets dirt and silt everywhere. it is very hard to clean out without removing and changing the carpets. new carpet may also be a red flag. 3 check under the spare tire in the trunk. this is an area often missed in clean-ups and will often show silt or water marks. 4 check the transmission fluid and rear axle or transaxle fluids. the rear axle is also a place that is often missed when someone tries to disguise a flood damaged car. remember oil and water dont mix so look for signs of water contamination in these oils. 5 check for things that have been recently replaced that seem strange. this is a broad category but using a bit of common sense usually works. if a car that is not well restored has a new headliner or new seats and other areas that would have been a more logical investment have been overlooked that could be a problem. 6 if you are still unsure get a 3rd party appraisal. any reputable dealer will have no problem with the vehicle being appraised by a 3rd party. if they do object run dont walk to the exit. these are things that will help you avoid buying a flood damaged car that you are unaware of. but what if you know the car was in a flood is there any way you should still buy it the short answer is only in certain circumstances. if a car is rare or historically significant then yes. but be aware you are looking at a full nut and bolt restoration in many cases. water is a strange beast. water can enter through a gasket where oil cannot leak out. if a car has been under only a few feet of water the crankcase trans and rear end housing will all be full of water. then it becomes a case of how long it was in that condition. rust starts almost at once. rust=pitting and pitting equals non-smooth surfaces. how quickly it was drained dried treated and re-filled will determine the difference between minor damage and major. also if the car was cranked while water was in the crankcase then you have issues with blown head-gaskets you cant compress water journal scarring etc. the electrical system is another whole issue. often cars have major circuit burnout when placed underwater. as a former firefighter i remember working hurricane andrew and seeing cars completely underwater with all the external lights on. just imagine what that electrical system will be like when the flood is over. earlier cars with less electronics are less likely to have major damage. later cars with computerized systems will li

From : john

suddenly without warning ed & sherri exclaimed 03-oct-05 1240 pm i have a 2002 dodge dakota quad cab and my a/c & heater fan motor does not work. i think it is the resistor but who can tell with all the electronics on a vehicle any more. what has happened is my fan kept getting slower and slower and now i have no fan at all. the mode controls work the a/c button lights comes on when you push it on. i can even hear the a/c compressor cycle on and off but again no blower motor. anyone want to please give me some input. i did check the fuses to be sure that it was good. thanks !!! well this sorta sounds like your blower motor resistor has blown. welcome to the club you have lots of company! do a google on this group for this and youll find tons of posts. my 2001s on its third now. my first lasted for about 3 years then i lost the replacement in merely 10 months. jmc .