Fuel Pump Relay

From : dennyderek white

Q: denny wrote would it be a bad idea to have the dealer or independent shop diagnose the problem and then you could put the part on yourself if it wasnt too difficult seems like guessing without diagnosing would get very expensive quickly. if you can find a dealer or other shop that will diagnose it for free. i dont know what you do for a living but do you do it for free most here charge $75-$85 just to look at it. it depends on what the problem is and the knowledge of the owner. for $30-$40 with the symptoms this guy mentioned id put a tps in and try it. mind you thats what i would do. that may not be the best choice for everyone. as long as you dont mind guessing....... taking it to a shop can sometimes get very expensive as well. often they do not diagnose it correctly the first time. that wont stop them from charging the $75 fee plus parts plus labor. then when it still has a problem you take it back whereby they say the part replaced was bad but theres something else bad too. round and round we go back and forth forking out more $s. iows the shops guess as well. i cant argue with that. unfortunatly there are many shady shops that ruin the reputation of them all. i think that goes for more than just auto repair shops too. i realize not all shops do that but it happens all to often. if you find a great shop then take all your business there and treat them well as they will return the favor. not easy to find a good shop. that comes back to the bring in a dozen donuts discussion from a few months back! bg denny .

Replies:

From : Annonymous

a lot! you will need to change pretty much everything from the exhaust to the fuel lines. um no. the fuel lines to the fuel pump will be the same. the exhaust will need to be changed from muffler forward or a custom exhaust can be installed which may cost less than a stock system. even the battery cables may need to be replaced! unlikely and ive never had a situation on this swap where that is true. its a lot of work and more importantly cost. agreed. however it may still be less than finding a truck with the 318 that is in similar shape and affordable. the one saving caveat is if you can find a similar truck in the bone yard with the 318 in it to use as a parts vehicle. not only will you not have to build or scavenge parts youll also be able to see how the v-8 was set up from the factory and that will save a ton of headaches! very true. if you are even luckier the salvage yard may sell you the entire truck and drop it in the driveway until you are ready to send it back and they may buy it for a nominal fee. while both engines are solid the 318 is pretty disappointing in overall performance. that depends on how its built. a 318 can deliver 300hp fairly easily and wiothout any drop in driveability. if theres a reason to justify the v-8 swap or you just want to do it i would recommend going with the 360 engine. agreed. max anvils dont kill cartoon characters cartoon characters kill cartoon characters. .

From : Annonymous

on 28 dec 2003 135734 -0800 dnlwhite323@hotmail.com derek white wrote ive got a 1990 dodge caravan with a 3.3. when i turn the ignition on ive got power going to the pump for about 3 seconds or so... the nothing. even with that the pump wasnt kicking on. i did pull the pump and checked it with some jumper wires... and wasnt making any noise. replaced the pump checked it the same way... with jumper wires and made some noise. put the pump in... and lifted the tank back up... hit the ignition switch on. heard something from the back... assuming the fuel pump. when you energize the system with the key you get about 2 to 3 seconds of pulse to the pump. its to pressurize the fuel rail and prep it for start. the van still will not start. tried cranking for about 10 minutes or so. still no pressure at the fuel rail. then the pcm probably isnt reading something....crank position sensor or the injectors are not firing...and again this would point back to a crank position sensor. first of all... should i have continuous voltage to the pump with the ignition just on and with the vehicle not running no. should i have voltage to the pump under while trying to start the vehicle. yes. 2nd of all... if im supposed to have voltage with the igntion switch set to on and the vehicle not running... and im not getting that voltage... is that an indication of the fuel pump relay being faulty or should i be looking elsewhere. same thing with the switch set to start i agree with neil...you are looking at the end result of another issue. the problem will be elsewhere. i dont have access to the troubleshooting guide at the moment and wont for a few days but there is a flow chart in the dealers manual for the van that explains where to look based upon what you find in various locations. it will ask if you have power here does this happen when you do this and if so look here..etc. i guess the main question is now is the obvious did the vehicle die on you while it was running or did the check engine light come on while it was running and now it wont crank back...and when was the last time you changed the filter in a case like this with no pressure at the rail i would check the obvious...i would remove the line from the filter to the rail...meaning leave the filter inline and see if fuel is making its way through the filter with the pump running. if not...remove the filter and see if you get fuel then..if you do....replace the filter. i have seen them clogged and actually..had one clog on me while driving cross country to the point the vehicle shut down. drove me nuts since i had never had that happen before but in about 15 minutes figured out that was the problem. thanks in advance. thank you both for the advice. i am going to the shop to get the voltmeter and will check the voltage under cranking... and then will check the filter. i know that the pump did fail. the van was running fine... went across town and shut it off. a few minutes later went to restart it and wouldnt start. will post a follow up later. just because it would not start is not necessarily a bad pump. in 260000+ miles on the same car i have had this problem 4 times. three times it was an ignition position sensor and only one time was it the fuel pump. the fuel pump was killed by a failed pressure regulator. get the fail codes with the three switch on off on off on thing and quit doing the hope and poke. .

From : neil nelson

dnlwhite323@hotmail.com derek white wrote ive got a 1990 dodge caravan with a 3.3. when i turn the ignition on ive got power going to the pump for about 3 seconds or so... the nothing. even with that the pump wasnt kicking on. i did pull the pump and checked it with some jumper wires... and wasnt making any noise. replaced the pump checked it the same way... with jumper wires and made some noise. put the pump in... and lifted the tank back up... hit the ignition switch on. heard something from the back... assuming the fuel pump. the van still will not start. tried cranking for about 10 minutes or so. still no pressure at the fuel rail. first of all... should i have continuous voltage to the pump with the ignition just on and with the vehicle not running only for the first two-three seconds. should i have voltage to the pump under while trying to start the vehicle. yes. once the pcm sees a signal from the crankshaft position sensor the pcm will again activate the fuel pump relay powering up the fuel pump. 2nd of all... if im supposed to have voltage with the igntion switch set to on and the vehicle not running... and im not getting that voltage... is that an indication of the fuel pump relay being faulty or should i be looking elsewhere. youre heading down the wrong path. same thing with the switch set to start could be an ignition switch could be the fuel pump relay could be a faulty crankshaft position sensor could be the sensor is okay but the flywheel is broken or cracked causing an improper synch with the camshaft position sensor could be a wiring problem either before the fuel pump relay or after could be a wiring problem in the pcm/sensor circuits. chrysler designed a basic start to finish diagnostic routine for such problems this is the approach you need to take to determine the cause of the problem and avoid unnecessary component replacement. do you have spark from all three coil packs are the injectors being pulsed what is the fuel pressure once the key is cycled on for the initial fuel line prime is there fuel pressure before the fuel filter .

From : cbhvac

ive got a 1990 dodge caravan with a 3.3. when i turn the ignition on ive got power going to the pump for about 3 seconds or so... the nothing. even with that the pump wasnt kicking on. i did pull the pump and checked it with some jumper wires... and wasnt making any noise. replaced the pump checked it the same way... with jumper wires and made some noise. put the pump in... and lifted the tank back up... hit the ignition switch on. heard something from the back... assuming the fuel pump. when you energize the system with the key you get about 2 to 3 seconds of pulse to the pump. its to pressurize the fuel rail and prep it for start. the van still will not start. tried cranking for about 10 minutes or so. still no pressure at the fuel rail. then the pcm probably isnt reading something....crank position sensor or the injectors are not firing...and again this would point back to a crank position sensor. first of all... should i have continuous voltage to the pump with the ignition just on and with the vehicle not running no. should i have voltage to the pump under while trying to start the vehicle. yes. 2nd of all... if im supposed to have voltage with the igntion switch set to on and the vehicle not running... and im not getting that voltage... is that an indication of the fuel pump relay being faulty or should i be looking elsewhere. same thing with the switch set to start i agree with neil...you are looking at the end result of another issue. the problem will be elsewhere. i dont have access to the troubleshooting guide at the moment and wont for a few days but there is a flow chart in the dealers manual for the van that explains where to look based upon what you find in various locations. it will ask if you have power here does this happen when you do this and if so look here..etc. i guess the main question is now is the obvious did the vehicle die on you while it was running or did the check engine light come on while it was running and now it wont crank back...and when was the last time you changed the filter in a case like this with no pressure at the rail i would check the obvious...i would remove the line from the filter to the rail...meaning leave the filter inline and see if fuel is making its way through the filter with the pump running. if not...remove the filter and see if you get fuel then..if you do....replace the filter. i have seen them clogged and actually..had one clog on me while driving cross country to the point the vehicle shut down. drove me nuts since i had never had that happen before but in about 15 minutes figured out that was the problem. thanks in advance. .

From : derek white

ive got a 1990 dodge caravan with a 3.3. when i turn the ignition on ive got power going to the pump for about 3 seconds or so... the nothing. even with that the pump wasnt kicking on. i did pull the pump and checked it with some jumper wires... and wasnt making any noise. replaced the pump checked it the same way... with jumper wires and made some noise. put the pump in... and lifted the tank back up... hit the ignition switch on. heard something from the back... assuming the fuel pump. when you energize the system with the key you get about 2 to 3 seconds of pulse to the pump. its to pressurize the fuel rail and prep it for start. the van still will not start. tried cranking for about 10 minutes or so. still no pressure at the fuel rail. then the pcm probably isnt reading something....crank position sensor or the injectors are not firing...and again this would point back to a crank position sensor. first of all... should i have continuous voltage to the pump with the ignition just on and with the vehicle not running no. should i have voltage to the pump under while trying to start the vehicle. yes. 2nd of all... if im supposed to have voltage with the igntion switch set to on and the vehicle not running... and im not getting that voltage... is that an indication of the fuel pump relay being faulty or should i be looking elsewhere. same thing with the switch set to start i agree with neil...you are looking at the end result of another issue. the problem will be elsewhere. i dont have access to the troubleshooting guide at the moment and wont for a few days but there is a flow chart in the dealers manual for the van that explains where to look based upon what you find in various locations. it will ask if you have power here does this happen when you do this and if so look here..etc. i guess the main question is now is the obvious did the vehicle die on you while it was running or did the check engine light come on while it was running and now it wont crank back...and when was the last time you changed the filter in a case like this with no pressure at the rail i would check the obvious...i would remove the line from the filter to the rail...meaning leave the filter inline and see if fuel is making its way through the filter with the pump running. if not...remove the filter and see if you get fuel then..if you do....replace the filter. i have seen them clogged and actually..had one clog on me while driving cross country to the point the vehicle shut down. drove me nuts since i had never had that happen before but in about 15 minutes figured out that was the problem. thanks in advance. thank you both for the advice. i am going to the shop to get the voltmeter and will check the voltage under cranking... and then will check the filter. i know that the pump did fail. the van was running fine... went across town and shut it off. a few minutes later went to restart it and wouldnt start. will post a follow up later. .