Ford group?
From : roy
Q: thanks ill look in to the problems you mention that i did not catch already like the validation. btw i used fp2k3 as well as wrote code when i did this. suddenly without warning azwiley1 exclaimed 11-oct-06 1112 am ok really quick i have been playing around with idea for a long time and finally started to try and do something about it. there are a handful of people in the group that i would like to hear the thoughts and opinions from so instead of trying to email you all i figured i would post it here. if you wouldnt mind tom l. roy wabbit nate or who ever else look at this and let me hear it. please just keep in mind that it is a work in progress. mac budd you are exempt! g thanks all http//members.cox.net/komputershoppe/ some comments from a webmaster http//jodi.ws and a fellow technician your code doesnt validate 23 errors. check out http//validator.w3.org to do a validation check and see what the errors are. good is your css does validate!@ in firefox at larrys... follows directly after the blue bar rather than on the next line. need a br / in there or something... id suggest getting rid of the blue bars or finding some narrower ones. ditch the animation on your header and the bar. always use animation sparingly if at all - its often distracting and annoying. at a glance id guess youre a coder rather than a designer i dont see anything in your source that says if youre using a tool to develop the pages. i see a clock in your source but i dont see it on your pages. have you just not called it yet use javascript sparingly. javascript menus usually are not accessible to the disabled cutting out a possibly large number of possible visitors/clients. id suggest using all css for your menus rather than javascript. buttons too can be done nicely using css. see my site. make your menus consistent throughout the site. which means make sure theyre exactly the same on every page. im seeing menus that are moving around a bit different on each page. id suggest using a more usual font youre using trebuchet ms which many of us may not have. id suggest arial or verdana. now i realize its under construction but since i dont know if you know whats broke and whats not tools.htm contact us is using the graphic and repeated as a simple button. neither works. and home is broken on some all pages. payments takes me to raw .asp code. good luck with your business. ive considered doing it a couple of timesand actually *have* done housecalls but decided it was too much of a hassle. these days id be worried that id get sued if the customer thought id screwed the computer up. id add something to legal that says that data loss isnt covered by your warranty - the customer should be responsible for backing up their data before you work on the computer unless theyre paying you the full price to do it for them. make them sign something that says i backed up my data and/or i wont hold larry responsible if im lying and i lose everything cause i cant be arsed to back it up or run a virus scanner. or something like that. im not really as jaded as all that but i think ill stick to fixing computers at work you might go visit alt.www.webmaster - lots of good talent there and great information. anyway sorry for so many comments! jmc .
Replies:
From : coasty
how about a place to download the service manual for a 1996 ram anyone know of a site that has that year thanks is there anywhere pages from dodge ram service manuals could be downloaded thanks bill .
From : mac davis
tom lawrence wrote works like a charm. connecting my voltmeter to wiring harness that plugs into the blower does not give me 12vdc. i get nothing at all. okay...youve got a dark green wire on that connector which should have +12v on it when the ignition switch is on. test this with your voltmeter connected to a known good ground. if you have no voltage here it may be a problem with the ignition switch. test the same dark green wire at the ignition switch for voltage. tested the above and no voltage whatsoever. checked under steering wheel by connecting voltmeter to green wire and bare metal of truck and no voltage. my knees are starting to buckle as i fear what lies ahead. sigh... ill be a man and handle it what next tom buc. .
From : andy
tom lawrence tnloaswpraemnmcien5g@earthlink.net wrote in they want to harge me over $50.00 do diagnose it. i figured somebody sorry for the long delay. this was the problem great call. i did take it to dodge tom addis dodge in coer dalene id... stay away from them. they diagnosed the actuater that triggers the switch as the problm and wanted to replace the switch just to be saf and as a free bonus they torqued the fram taking the truck off the lift and cracked my radiator wide open then tried to say it was pouring water when i brought it in.... then to help me appreciate their helpfulness they charged me $60.00 then tried to charge me $457.00 for a new radiator instalation. i declined and went and got a used one for 50 bucks and installed it myself in an hour. get this the 4x4 light now works.... sheeesh... i guess the switch actually just needed to be wiggled.... man this is why people hate mechanics! thanks for the response though you did call it right! out there must have a clue to tell me what to check before i go pay the dealership lots of $$$ to fix something that may be simple. any ideas sure. the switch that makes the 4x4 light come on is on the cad central axle disconnect on the passenger-side of the front axle. youll see an electrical connection on the side closest to the passenger tire. the switch is a plunger-type switch normally closed but held open by the shift motor when in 2wd mode. disconnect the electrical connector and short the two pins in the connector with the ignition turned on. if the light comes on its a problem with the mechanical switch on the cad. if not you either have a broken wire or a lamp out in the instrument cluster. of course this is all assuming that youre correct and 4wd is really engaging. .
From : roy
local auto parts stores have the blower for my truck dont know about the newer ones.dont get it from a junkyard you could end up doing this again next month.i believe the most expensive ive seen the motor is around $50. mine was less but my truck is old....... hd with ac off and heat on i get nothing through wents. im about to pull blower motor and test with 12vdc power supply. if it is bad would local auto parts store carry it or is it a dealer only part. eric. .
From : daskel
i wouldnt. good for you .
From : dave lee
alt.trucks.ford thanks r found a set of 4 winter wheels that came off my lightning. forgot i had themwere at a friendsgotta sell them need a ford ford ng. that is active. tia roy .
From : daskel
on tue 10 oct 2006 211951 -0500 john john.redcorn@gmail.com wrote i got this replky in email from a user having difficulty posting. yes! more common if the diff isnt serviced regularly which means once a year if you tow. and you must use the limited slip additive which isnt worth the snot its made of anymore since sperm whale oil cant be had legally used to be the main ingredient. anyway mopar parts offers the clips separately and the clutch disc kits if necessary $$$ but this repair requires some special tools to spread the preloaded discs to remove them and to align things during assembly if you ever want to get the axles back in. in years past this diff was serviced only as an assembly despite the service manuals showing the procedure and it takes quite a while. still cheaper to fix it rather than replace the diff which is over $500. i am of the opinion that the clips are overly hardened in manufacturing this issue appeared suddenly and like you said can go without issues for quite a while as it grinds things apart. i have changed many a housing and differential some as low as 20k miles. once the limited slip additive loses it ability to slide smoothly chatter occurs and that is what appears to shatter the clips. many pieces mow over the ring and pinion and ruin the bearing caps some so badly they cant be disassembled threaded adjuster bound up it gets real expensive in a hurry and complete axle assemblies are hard to get. anyway for some reason i cant post to groups so feel free to pass this along and thanks for your post. tom showers certified/specialist chrysler technician ase cmat l1 sawyer motors saugerties ny ive read a few posts in this group about small shudders jolts etc when starting. i recently purchased a 2003 and had the same problem. its subtle - occurs in about 1 out of every 15 starts from a dead stop - its very subtle on mine. i changed the differential fluid last weekend and when i pulled the cover and let the oil drain i found lots of metal shavings like sand and a large retainer-looking clip - about an inch long. did a little searching and found there is a common problem on dodge ram 1500s with the 9.25 axel and the facvtory lsd. thought some of you might be interested in investigating if you have a truck that fits these years. looks like there are lots of people with this problem and it usually gives little to no warning before a failure. most of the people find it when changing fluids. there are 4 clips that are used to retain the clutch packs of the lsd in some manner and they are prone to coming loose and having freedom to roam around the pumpkin. with luck it will sit at the bottom by the magnet others come partially out and then score grooves on the bear cap and possibly requiring replacement of the axel housign itself. a catastrphic failure could occur if left long enough or simply by unluckiness of the draw immediately. so if youre close to required time to change fluids go ahead and do it early while you can still get warranty coverage. http//www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.phpt=111681&page=7&pp=20&highlight=rear+end+lsd+clip .