For Auction. Chrysler StarSCAN scan tool

From : Annonymouscjdtech

Q: i have a 98 dodge ram 1500 4x4 about 2 weeks ago my i loaned it out and they ran it out of gas. now it wont stay running after it warms up. if you start it and its cold it will hold the idle right at 600 rpms. once it warms up and you are driving it when you put your foot on the brake to slow down or stop the rpms drop to 0 and it dies. i have taken the truck to two of the local mechanics and they are telling me the fuel filter is inside the fuel tank and is non-serviceable. i have never heard of such a thing. i took it into my normal mechanic and he ran a pressure test it came back fine. he also hooked the truck up to the computer to see if any error codes would come up nothing. then i went down and bought some sea foam and put that into the gas tank. the problem is still there. its funny because if you bring the rpms up to 2500 for a couple of seconds and then take your foot off the gas it will run just fine for a short time. i am afraid of doing any more damage. any help would be appreciated. thanks gina gina@duffertech.com it sounds to me like you have a bad battery as this stalling at idle is a common symptom of low battery voltage. how old is that battery keep in mind if that battery is over 4 years old it is getting around the time to change it and if the person who ran it out of fuel cranked it to death in the hopes that they could magically get it to start again that would put excessive strain on the battery and further shorten its usable life especially if the battery is getting older to begin with. when the engine is cold it is running in whats called an open loop and is not depending on all of the sensors to run which also makes it less susceptible to stalling due to low battery voltage. running the engine at high rpm for a few minutes causes the alternator to put out a higher voltage which can and does apply surface charge to the battery which will allow it to hold a higher voltage for a short time which could allow the engine to run just fine until that surface charge bleeds off. i would have that battery load tested or if it is an older battery just replace it and see what happens. as for the fuel filter it is in the tank as part of the fuel pump module and may or may not be serviceable. my fsm for my 97 said that some modules had a replaceable filter and others didnt and mine was not and neither was the one on the replacement module. either way you would need to remove the tank to service it and with the possible condition of the pump due to age running it out of fuel and sucking up all of the crap accumulated after 10 years of service it is probably not in the best of condition anymore and would make more sense to replace the entire module rather than just the filter if it needs to be done. i kinda doubt that it is the pump because the pump really doesnt care if the engine is warmed up or not and if it was that weak you really should have problems at any rpm. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

Replies:

From : denny

if you get the fuel out of the damn thing it is as light as a feather. now when i dropped mine and saw that carry handle molded into the top of it i have to wonder just how often they expected this tank to need to be removed. - -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving on tue 29 apr 2008 153106 -0600 bg notvalid@notme.com wrote i read someplace that if your fuel filter is a bit clogged it can cause the pump to overheat and shut down. ive been dealing with a very intermittant problem for a few years on a 318 van and im thinking that it might be due to the pump shutting down. i tracked down a few other intermittant electrical problems and up untill yesterday the truck had been running perfect for about a year. i wasnt getting fuel at the engine so i eventually pulled the fuel line off of the filter input and ran a direct 12 volts to the fuel pump to rule everything else out. the pump didnt pump. but after sitting all night the pump works. i guess the pump had enough time to cool down my question is if the pump overheats does it normally take that long to cool down or do you think that my pump is intermittant #2 - if i have to drop the tank do i have to buy a special tool from dod

From : christopher d thompsondennydenny

truck details 86 dodge ramcharger se 360 4x4 auto tilt no a/c. problem charging system failure. symptoms electrical outputs diminished things light light output power windows and wipers are slow etc. increasing load on the system makes lights go dim stereo to shut off wipers to slow and so on. increasing engine or idle speed does not counter this effect nor cause the system to come back up to full power. vehicle doesnt start without a jump. tests before it died on me i stopped into a schucks and had them do their electrical test. the result pointed to the alternator as the failure. i took the alternator in by itself the first test was done in the vehicle. two bench tests showed the alternator to be fine. next i tested the battery voltage with the truck off. voltage was just a touch under 12v yet i had to jump it in order to get it running again. with the truck running i checked voltage at the battery again and it still read 11.4. revving the engine did not increase voltage. i then disconnected the voltage regulator and ran a jumper from the green wire connection to ground to perform a full field test. with the truck running again i tested voltage at the battery leads and it read 13. again voltage did not increase or drop with engine speed. my manual indicated the voltage should jump to between 14 and 16 volts and to only run this test long enough to get a reading. after i saw the voltage went up 13v but stayed steady i feel i have ruled out the regulator as the problem. this is also still under voltage correct normal voltage should be around 14v. bypassing the regulator only bumped it up slightly. following the test procedure in my manual i then disconnected the neg batt cable and then hooked up a test lamp between the negative cable and negative post. the light came on. i disconnected the alternator and the light stayed on. the manual says this means there is a short. next leaving the test lamp in place and the ignition off i started pulling fuses to find out what system the short is in. the light goes off when i pull the fuse at #7 horns and #9 dome stop lmp. is it interesting to note that the test light will come back on if i pull the headlight switch out now we come to the crux. it would seem i have a short in both of those circuits. but do i really heres why i ask. the test lamp is acting in lieu of a direct connection of the cable to the post. i would expect that the test lamp would of course come on if i pull the headlight switch out because lights work even when the ignition is off. the horn and interior/brake lights are also made to work when the ignition is off. but i would expect the test lamp to be off unless i was doing something to close those circuits like honking the horn or actually stepping on the brake or turning on the interior lamps. i pulled the leads to the horns brake light switch and interior lights and still read voltage at those fuse slots and the test lamp is on unless i pull those two fuses. i jiggled each of the smaller harnesses around hoping to see the test lamp blink off but no dice. my manual does have the wiring diagram but only shows the circuit for #9. for #7 8 and 10 it only shows their presence on the fuse block not their wiring. so what do i do here does any of this make sense to anyone where else should i be looking or what else can i test thanks rk .

From : denny

or is there some other deep drive socket out there that can reach the nuts. tia bg the dodge fuel pumps used on their vans are only good for about 150k miles. it seems to me the first time i had to drop the tank the nuts were rusted on so bad i had to cut the bolts. bent carriage bolts work great for replacements with ss nuts. replacing the second and third fuel pumps were a snap. a motorcycle jack works great for dropping the tank and raising it up again. beekeep . 222 343978 48190691.46242250@usenet.radix.net on tue 29 apr 2008 153106 -0600 bg notvalid@notme.com wrote i read someplace that if your fuel filter is a bit clogged it can cause the pump to overheat and shut down. ive been dealing with a very intermittant problem for a few years on a 318 van and im thinking that it might be due to the pump shutting down. i tracked down a few other intermittant electrical problems and up untill yesterday the truck had been running perfect for about a year. i wasnt getting fuel at the engine so i eventually pulled the fuel line off of the filter input and ran a direct 12 volts to the fuel pump to rule everything else out. the pump didnt pump. but after sitting all night the pump works. i guess the pump had enough time to cool down my question is if the pump overheats does it normally take that long to cool down or do you think that my pump is intermittant #2 - if i have to drop the tank do i have to buy a special tool from dodge or is there some other deep drive socket out there that can reach the nuts. tia bg the dodge fuel pumps used on their vans are only good for about 150k miles. it seems to me the first time i had to drop the tank the nuts were rusted on so bad i had to cut the bolts. bent carriage bolts work great for replacements with ss nuts. replacing the second and third fuel pumps were a snap. a motorcycle jack works great for dropping the tank and raising it up again. beekeep .