Fiberglass
From : mopaman
Q: tbone wrote you didnt because you cant but that doesnt mean that you are not defending them. oh man now this is getting funny. i didnt but i did. ok!! you instead try to mke it sound like it is a normal and acceptable thing to do and claim that the facts are invalid. even funnier!! i made a point about lawyers being corrupt on both sides and you went off on another twisted argument about nothing. now watch youre reply about nothing quote some lines and rant and whine. and for what nothing!! get it yet tbone how is that even possible sorry miles but you were the one who jumped in here claiming that verifiable facts were nothing more than opinions first off you gave no sources. your so called facts are just lawyers opinions. you can not prove your 1800 figure represented deaths 100% caused by an improperly placed gas tank. it is an opinion. the lawyers on both sides gave their opinions. .
Replies:
From : redneck tookover hell
what are you hunting the french damn i fergot about them useless bastards. the french invented yeller sauce dont ya know. the should be hunted for ruining bbq. -- moparman---remove clothes to reply! --scud coordinates 32.61204 north 96.92993 west-- .
From : thadriver
ok so i bled the air out of the radiator -- there was definately a bubble in there a big one. other things to note that may help troubleshoot... after running the engine for a good 30 minutes including a very short drive around the block the front of the radiator is totally cool to the touch. maybe i didnt run it enough to feel the heat. the fan works and blows a ton of air but the arrow did creep very slightly lower at speed. it also creeped a hair lower when i revved it in neutral. im accounting the first to air movement over the radiator the second to higher pressure from the water pump but what do i know.. someone also mentioned loosening the hex screw on the cap to let air out but since i bled it by starting/stopping the engine with the heat on full bore and filling up when the level dropped significantly do i still need to the temp is now stable at 200 where it always is but does that mean its fixed is it safe to drive all i have a 95 ram 2500 v8 magnum about 120k miles.. about two weeks ago the temp gauge went nuts and almost redlined. i found my coolant reservoir almost empty. i topped off the radiator and the reservoir while engine was dead-cold and everything was peachy again. today 2 weeks later the temp was fine this morning but on my way home 20 mile drive spiked again and i found the reservoir empty. i dont think its leaking i didnt see any drippage or anything after it sat a full night in the driveway but then again antifreeze evaporates pretty quick... anyone have any thoughts before i take it to a dealer hell even if i need to take it in id like to have something useful to tell them... help! .
From : mopaman
everyone in the group knows how and what he really is . . . which is why we appear to take turns telling him how wrong he is all the time. what makes it sad is that he cant seem to in his mental / emotional condition learn new things understand hes not respected and doesnt seem to care that these things are true about him. but thats his choice. ill bet he spins the heck out of this post budd budd cochran wrote so whos really being the childish one tom who is the one that took an honest simple statement made by me and attacked it budd the boner will take anything anyone says and turn it into an argument no matter what the topic or side youre on. .
From : mopaman
then try this camo cloth set in clear flat low or no gloss urethane or epoxy paint kinda like doing decoupage coat of urethane or epoxy paint roll on the pre-trimmed cloth then a second coat to seal it down. hinges can be medium sized eye screws set in gorilla glue or epoxy on edges then tie together with black nylon ties. the panels wont be as strong as with a layer of glass but you wont have to camouflage them after glassing either. i think theyll do the job for you. what are you hunting budd run-a-way slaves!!!! deer turkey hawgs and coyotes. lol sounds like a whole lotta fun. i wish you good hunting. budd .
From : mopaman
im building it out of 1/2 foam. kinda like a real thin surf board. ************ oh; youre looking for flat panel. not sure where youd find it cheap but if you do you wont need the foam; just some piano wire hinges to put them together with. you might also consider adding holes near the bottom & using tent stakes to hold it down. if you have foam thats resistant to chemicals you can just lay out some glass mat & brush in the resin or you might can even do that with the camo cloth. resin should be available at an auto parts store or body supply. hth paul aka tha driver giggle cream - it makes dessert *funny*! the resin im buying is made to use with foam heres a quote from a vendor i emailed. west system epoxy a105 resin with a206 hardener would do the job nicely. metering pumps are available as well as a free users manual. do not use polyester sometimes called fiberglass resin as it will melt the foam. should be okay how ridgid is the flat panel -- moparman---remove clothes to reply! --scud coordinates 32.61204 north 96.92993 west-- .
From : budd cochran
tbone wrote ah yes the miles high speed back pedal mode. thought you said you were done with this discussion .
From : mac davis
usually the minor crossthreads are the first 2-3 threads thats when the newbie techs try to air impact them on instead of starting the thread by hand. depending on the vehicle i just get a matching good lug nut and just fix the damage threads. the repaired threads are usually far enough into the lug nut as not to reduce its strength. the crossthreads that occur when dirty threads are impacted are the onces that gets replaced. and if you just made those techs start the nuts by hand a few turns instead of dropping them in the socket and bzzzzt one screwed up damaged stud. unauthorized work i should restate that statement. im also the brake and alignment tech ase certs on brakes/steering/suspension/ac/cooling/electrical the key phrase is i tell the customer that it needs to be done and i walk him over to see it. ah . . . that would be part of the front alignment wouldnt it btw each type of front suspension has specific procedures for doing suspension component inspections properly. just shaking tires isnt the way to do it. grab the front end of the tire and shake side to side for loose play tie rods ok. grab the top end of the tire and shake in and out upper ball joints same with the bottom end lower ball joints sorry but youre wrong. do that to a suspension with the ball joints in tension car weight supported by the lower control arm but on a frame lift tires off floor or compression weight held by strut or upper control arm and sitting on the floor and you wont find any accuracy in the test. go to your local library and find a chiltons or motors repair manual for pre- 80 vehicles and read the suspension sections. your test as described can only check the wheel bearings for play. turn the tire left and right for strut bearings. never tested any so ill accept your statement. this can all be done while waiting for the stockboy to bring the new tires. like i said if you did these tests to my old truck or any of my previous mopars all pre-79 you would not get a accurate test done. these vehicles take the weight on the lower control arm. the jack or support must lift the lower arm until the upper arm is clear of the jounce bumper. now the joints have all the freeplay detecable if any. older fords and amcs often had the load taken by the upper control arm and the second case applied to them. a proper set of tests usually took 30 minutes my point being if the ball joint is loaded in any manner when you check it you wont feel the freeplay. brake work is where i make the most $$. if you do one side ya gota do the other... sez who ive done brake repair jobs where a less qualified mechanic had screwed things up on one side and only that side needed work. i gave the customer the option of replacing the slightly used shoes on the opposite side tossing them in their trunk or letting me use them on another customers car. usually they would have me check the other brake and replace the shoe. if they didnt want the shoes they got a cost reduction and another person saved bucks on a one side shoe set to get them thru an inspection. my paycheck does... i see. . . . i refuse to do only one side liability. if you work on one side of the brakes and the other side fails guess whos responsible. a caliper that still works and has over 120k miles and a customer only wants to replace the other one that is sticking. 2 months down the road the one that wasnt changed decides to stick bad enough to cause steering problems. same with rear drum wheel cylinders if one leaks replace both left and right. well time has passed since i did brake work and not only have lawsuits increased especially those that cast blame on the innocent but it appears the paycheck is more important than quality workmanship. if a customer refuses then i explain about the liability. i also write it down on the work order that customer refuses service. this has saved my ass a few times. no doubt. however i can remember when mechanics were skilled enough and established well enough in a community that their word was sufficient as a skilled expert and carried the weight as far as cars were concerned that a doctor carries about your health. something else that we have lost to progress. my guarantee was this its guaranteed to work until it breaks. if it breaks bring it back and if the failure was because of my work the repair was free. i did not warranty parts however. repeat customers got a labor price break and senior citizens paid no labor costs. never had a dissatisfied customer. btw this was my experience working at pep boys and speedy mufflers. ntb and other tire specialist shops normally have better techs. ah now that explains much . . . .high school trained off the street help. i was almost under the impression you were talking about real mechanics. as i mentioned i do have my expire
From : thadriver
what are you hunting the french politics the gentle art of getting votes from the poor and campaign funds from the rich. .
From : budd cochran
lol oh the disadvantage to the cab-over design . . ya just cant feel the back end break loose!!! when i drove a gmc van for the mobile home sales lot i once worked for either me or my co-worker rode in the back to feel for skids on those slick colorado mountain roads. the last van i had was a 73 b-350 lwb with 360 auto and 4.10 axle . . . no gas mileage but it was quick off the line!!! budd youll like this one budd. the guy who split rent on the farmhouse and i worked at the same place a family-run meat market. we decided that the van would be the thing to drive in one slick winter morning. he decided that since i grew up with the van and drove it when i first started driving that i should drive that morning. it was a long 15 mile drive that morning with no problems almost. getting close to work we had to descend a short hill and make a right turn. we were creeping down the hill and i made the turn hit a little ice & we ended up going through that turn backwards. it happened so fast & so smoothly that it almost looked like we planned it that way except for the look of panic on our faces. when we started breathing again pat looked at me and said cool lets do that again! i told him ok but it was his t
From : mopaman
all i have a 95 ram 2500 v8 magnum about 120k miles.. about two weeks ago the temp gauge went nuts and almost redlined. i found my coolant reservoir almost empty. i topped off the radiator and the reservoir while engine was dead-cold and everything was peachy again. today 2 weeks later the temp was fine this morning but on my way home 20 mile drive spiked again and i found the reservoir empty. i dont think its leaking i didnt see any drippage or anything after it sat a full night in the driveway but then again antifreeze evaporates pretty quick... anyone have any thoughts before i take it to a dealer hell even if i need to take it in id like to have something useful to tell them... help! .
From : mopaman
tbone wrote all of them involved a fire due to poorly placed tanks. rofl. all of them did not result in a fire from poorly placed tanks. some caught fire because being hit at high speed often has that effect regardless of tank placement. ever see a destruction derby at a local fair their tanks are placed inside the center of the vehicle with a cage around them. yet they burn at times. ya fire must be caused by poor placement 100% of the time. .
From : budd cochran
build a knockdown frame and cover it with camo fabric. budd im building it out of 1/2 foam. kinda like a real thin surf board. -- moparman---remove clothes to reply! --scud coordinates 32.61204 north 96.92993 west-- .
From : thadriver
i did as you suggested and got no diagnostic code on the odometer. did it just read pdone or did you see nothing at all if nothing at all you didnt do it right. i didnt see anything except mileage in the odometer. i must not have done it right but i did exactly as stated. i tried it several times with the same results. this is a 2003 ram - did they not have that feature in 2003 dddd .
From : steve w
any suggestions i .
From : mopaman
butch ricker wrote subject oil pan cracked around plug lots of sniveling cussing nonsense snippetated.... sell it run like a little girl away from anything resembling a v8. put your computer back in the box. sit on a claymore mine and die you stupid crossposting asshat pos. .
From : mopaman
maxed out doubtful but who knows. thing is that you could take some of the approx 15k that you saved in buying a lightning mod it a bit match the srt10 performance and still have a bunch of the 15k leftover. i think that you are dreaming now roy. how so also youd still have a truck that you can tow with and load in other words it would still be useful as a truck. i doubt that. if you up the hp of the lightning to that of the ram srt10 and still keep it streetable and then try to tow or haul with it you are probably going to break something. please explain. budd .