Dodge Ram AC and Heat switches between defog vents and dash vents when going up a hill
From : kyhighlander
Q: azwiley1 wrote and studded tires that are better than sliced bread! you have to make sure to mount studded tires using a proper type of torque wrench. also because of the cold winter air a k&n filter should be used. . 222 337466 uvumi.22268$%85.2333@fe05..easy.com my ram 91 model flips between the defog and the dash vents when you start up a hill. it dont have to be much of an incline either just 2 or 3 percent just enough to put a little load on the engine. ive had it to the part changers over at the dealership and after $300 it is still doing the same thing. now they want to put a $400 part on it a gas canister. with it only doing it on an uphill slope it seems to me it would be a vacuum thing. anyone have any ideas ky it sounds like a simple vacuum check valve has gone bad. as i get older and the memory deteriorates posts like this help me remember why i dont want to buy a new truck again or have anything to do with dealers. .
Replies:
From : s a king
i whacked mine with the heel of my hand. it has stayed for a few days now. well see if its permanent. ed dowdy fithian il by the way this is rally getting me down isnt it because the middle seat in my 2 door has a seat belt too but the end of it is that the back of my cab comes down whenever the cab gets a jar from driving over a bump. the holder of the back interior wall has the neatest plastic clips but unfortunately they dont hold on well... enough. any suggestions please. -- jon a. ranta 29829-8th ave. s.w. federal way wa 98023 253-946-3733 .
From : kyhighlander
checked for voltage again at fuse 16 with the ignition off. voltage still present at this fuse with the ignition key off. fuse 15 that has a common feed according to the service manual is fine... no voltage present. looks like it is a junction block problem. i notice the service manual states that if this occurs the entire junction block has to be replaced ! ! so let me get this straight... even with the sbcm unplugged ignition off you get voltage through fuse 16. are you saying that even with fuse 16 installed you read 0 voltage on fuse 15 or are you saying that with fuse 16 removed then fuse 15 shows 0 volts as it should if its the latter id strongly suspect a short in the wiring out to the sbcm before id suspect a bad junction block. anyone ever changed out the junction block on a 99 sport quad ctd not exactly but ive done work behind the dash. its actually not all that bad... remove the 5 screws up on the top of the dash at the base of the windshield. remove the steering wheel knee blocker panel and remove the steering column support. rest the column on the seat and loosen but do not remove the two big hex bolts on either side of the dash under the side kick panels that hold the dash frame to the body. allow the dash to roll forward resting on the seat. you can then reach from the
From : kyhighlander
azwiley1 wrote and studded tires that are better than sliced bread! you have to make sure to mount studded tires using a proper type of torque wrench. also because of the cold winter air a k&n filter should be used. which leads me to the question of what weight oil should be used on the k&n when it is below 0 degrees should a lighter weight be used or the standard stuff denny .
From : kyhighlander
in responce to roy s post. i thought everyone should know oh wait!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! roys buying a lexus *grin* -- chris . 222 337478 4iymi.121129$nv3.114334@pd7urf2no hi tom! thanks for the heads up. didnt disconnect the ctm ... when i removed the fuse for the seat belt module killed the back feed to the wipers and radio as these are fed from a common circuit acc 31. what would be the symptoms to look for if the ctm has failed is the ctm feed from the acc 31 circuit as well fred was about to change out the ignition switch .... pulled out fuse instead for the seat belt control module. this solved the problem. seat belt control module was back feeding circuit acc 31 which was keeping the radio and wipers on with the ignition shut off. did you also disconnect the wiring harness to the central timer module to verify that was indeed the cause of the backfeeding its accessible by removing the panel below the steering column. its the electornic box on the right-hand side of the dash frame. remove the two screws and you can pull the module out far enough to disconnect the electrical connector. if it does need to be replaced its going to be a dealer job. not because you cant put a new one in thats the simple part but the new ctm needs to be programmed with all of the features in your truck power windows/locks keyless entry steering wheel radio controls - all stuff like that. .
From : s a king
that was pretty darn good chris. .
From : kyhighlander
finally find the wire from the alternator to the passenger-side battery positive terminal and wrap it in aluminum foil. strange as it sounds electrical noise from the alternator can interfere with the pcm. when wrapping this wire keep the foil away from the connectors on the ends of the wire. you dont want the foil to be energized. after wrapping the wire with foil cover it with electrical tape. that will help keep everything in place and it will look much nicer too. -- ken .
From : bdk
the torque converter clutch engages and disengages every few seconds repeatedly for the whole trip.......up hill on the flat accelerating you name it. any ideas anyone. rob ================ ================ aps signal problem generator creating ac noise in the dc bus valve body worn bad pressure sensor on the tranny a guess only a guess in case of a real emergency.......... contact a professional............ or.........remember........ google is yer friend marshmonster pisss in his coffee cup.........pours in some crownroyal.......takes a slug....... wipes the blood off his brow.......and gits back to work .
From : tom lawrence
the same shop two years earlier inspected with full system using a black light etc and found no leaks. refilled system and added dye. today no dye is visible but system has lost refrigerant as stated earlier. have you checked the condensate drain tube and anything below it for signs of the dye a leak in the evaporator could go un-noticed. claim to be able to stop very small a/c leaks just by adding the product to the a/c system. this is similar with those stop leaks for radiators that i have actually. a year ago a friend had a slight leak in his a/c system with pressure readings similar to yours. not wanting to spend too much money on the vehicle we just used a can of r134a the mac-134 kit from interdynamics - refrigerant oil and leak sealer all in one a high-side gauge and a thermometer to measure the vent temps. we got the system back to acceptable or even better... 41f at the vents on a 78f day minimal airflow over the condenser. a year later its still good. radiator shop visit anyway. am i into a similar possibility with stop leak product far a/cs im sure there are products out there that may indeed gum up the works. ive never been much of a fan of them but in the above case there wasnt much to lose. its the only time ive used something like that but its hard to
From : bigironram
bigironram wrote max dodge wrote marsh monster wrote you have posted misinformation in an ng frequented by professional service technicians. we regret to inform you that you are on official yardbird advice watch. we greatly regret this haveing to take this action however if your future replies are based on fact solely on fact and entirely on grounded on factual content.......we will release you from this watch list. however further posting of misinformation may can will and most likely......cause you to recieve blatant and derogeratory .....flaming and acuasutory replies from the professionals who frequent this ng. interesting...... considering that tom posts with a better information-to-bullshit ratio than the professional service technicians and that the professional service technicians have been wrong in the past and that the professional service technicians dont post here nearly as reliably as tom does and finally that the professional service technicians usually fail to post any information to prove tom wrong whilst claiming tom to be full of crap
From : sqdancerlynn
on thu 19 jul 2007 184626 -0700 marsh monster marshmonster2624@aol.com wrote .. .. dont do it. marshmonster eats an oyster......hhmmmmmm........picks a booger and eats it..........man.....why have i been payn for oysters all these years i tried it once but it got stuck in my kolher. beekeep .
From : kyhighlander
geekboy wrote there is. when i was in school i took the california achievement test which was suppose to give an idea on what level a student is according to grade level. that is the standardized type of tests that is becoming a widespread problem. we have a similar test here in az. the problem is that the teachers are now structuring their lesson plans around passing the test and little else. actually it was not. it was not required to be passed to the next grade. hence teachers did not teach the test. it was also used as a placement for struggling students. .