Differential plug gone

From : michael

Q: michael wrote i purchased a 2004 dakota 4x4 about a year ago. put about 11000 km on it since then. currently has about 48000 km. noticed today that the plug/stopper from my rear axle differential was missing. dont know where it went or how long its been missing. the truck is always road driven. i cannot touch any fluid when i put my finger into it but a piece of wire comes back with some oil on it. i havent noticed any excessive noise but then again i havent really been listening for it. the truck still has power train warranty for a couple of years. i made a couple of anonymous calls to dealers today explaining the situation and asking if warranty would cover it if anything was wrong. both service departments said i would have to talk to the manager. both also said they have never heard of a plug falling out. im freaking out and terrified that this may somehow void my warranty. i purposely bought this truck because it had warranty. what the hell do i do now i dont think its likely that it fell out without some help. do you ever get your oil changed at one of those jiffy-lube type places or had any work done at a midas shop some of them do a free courtesy inspection on all your fluids hoping to sell you more than what you originally came in for. they might have checked the fluid level and never re-installed the plug. for piece of mind i think id change the gear lube when replacing the plug. -- ken .

Replies:

From : tom lawrence

dont know if its a 9.25 but my 03 dak has a rubber plug. last i checked the fill plug was a threaded plug. every 9.25 rear differential ive seen has had a rubber plug in the diff cover. .

From : mac davis

on mon 29 oct 2007 095311 -0600 ric seyler ricseyler@gulf.net wrote steve wrote with the cost of crude oil hitting $90 a barrel this is something you cant pass up! this is not a scam and can save you real money. a quick down and dirty of how this works magnets on the fuel line or the turbonator behind the air cleaner lololololol i used to think that magnets were just a joke but then i tried it. i broke apart about a zillion dead hard drives. got all the magnets out of them there were an average of two magnets in each drive so i had two zillion of em next i glued them to the fuel lines which took about 20 or so magnets. what i did next was nothing short of brilliant. i glued the remaining magnets to the front bumper grill and everwhere else i could on the front. even around the windshield. you guessed it i got on the highway and soon found that i didnt even have to press the accelerator. id only about two or three gallons of gas left in the tank anyway and eventually that ran out just with the engine idling. the engine shut down and im still doing about 70+ mph! incredible... man this is great. i started in new york and im just getting through denver all on that three gallons of gas ok the gas ran out in kansas but im still going. now im writing this on my blackberry while on the road. steering and driving doesnt seem that hard without gas but ive got one problem. how do i get unstuck from the back of this semi .

From : mac davis

on sun 28 oct 2007 151602 -0400 denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote i was not refering to the pop off valve denny. neither was i. im fairly sure the fill hole just has a rubber plug stuck in it. but thats ok larry i know you and the snoidiot are like brothers..... gbmfg natural mistake larry... buggs does pop off a lot here... *eg* mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : mac davis

quad wrote on oct 29 827 am nosey kfre...@removethis.hotmail.com wrote quad wrote i have a 02 dodge 3/4 cummins and the fuel gage reads 1/4 tank and the tank is empty. i bought a new sending unit and lifted the bed of the truck and removed the in tank metering assembly. in looking at the metering lever it looks like the float my have been hanging up. i am trying to replace the sending unit and i cant figure out #1 how to disconnect the sending unit wires from in tank metering assemble plug and #2 how to release the sending unit from the assembly. thank you for any help. i replaced the fuel sending unit in my 99 diesel. i ran out of fuel with just over 1/8 of a tank. i think my module might be different than yours. the parts guy had a hard time finding the right sending unit for my truck. does your fuel module look like thishttp//i24.tinypic.com/15xqrsi.jpg to remove the wires i had to grind a small screwdriver down to release the locking tab inside the connector. that was a huge pain in the ass. if i had to do it again id cut the wires and splice connectors on the module side wiring that mate with the factory connectors on the new sending unit. on my module the sending unit slides down the track and off the bottom. i dont remember how it was released from its position but i dont think i had any difficulty with it. -- ken ken yes this is the same assembly. i was wondering if the plug the wire ends were in could be removed and make getting the new ends easy to r/r. if i splice the wires it may change the resistance and the gage could read incorrectly bob splicing the wires might throw the gauge off. the pcm reads a voltage signal from the sending unit instead of resistance but i suppose the end result could be the same with a poor splice. the 2001 fsm mentions removing a locking collar from the electrical connector before the wires can be released. i dont recall removing any collar from the connector on my 99. maybe thats why it was so difficult. -- ken .

From : robert francis

this just started happening. 1998 dodge dakota v8 5.2l auto 98k miles driving along then let off the gas. rpms drop to near zero then come back to life engine stalls. also random stalling at stop lights/signs or during low speeds with next to no acceleration. no codes showing. also noticed that the right side pcv valve rattles and/or it sounds like a rattling or a little motor winding down towards the rear of the engine. i felt the pcv valve when the engine was turned off and it did rattle. i replaced the pcv valve today and the same thing is happening- rattling when motor is revved up then let go of throttle or shutting the engine off. i cant seem to make it happen either. it does it at random. clues suggestions vacuum leaks .

From : azwiley1

steve wrote with the cost of crude oil hitting $90 a barrel this is something you cant pass up! this is not a scam and can save you real money. a quick down and dirty of how this works magnets on the fuel line or the turbonator behind the air cleaner lololololol 1st - by using this product engine efficiency is gained. you will see 7% to 14% increases in your gas milage. http//www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/ 2nd - no longer use the high grade of gasoline. this in itself saves quite a bit of money since 87 octane is alot cheaper than 92. once your engine is conditioned to the formula which only takes a little while you can start using the cheap gas. http//www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/ 3rd - even if you do not buy my product i have prepared a special tips and secrets to saving on mpg without my product! i believe in this product so much that if you use it and follow the 23 tips i outline below you will save a fortune over the coming year! even if you do not use the product remember that following these 23 simple tips makes for a huge money saver as well! i am looking out for the rest of us because i too am tired of paying almost 4 dollars a gallon! it is ridiculous and until we can finally get off of gasoline there looks to be no end in site to the rising of oil prices! 4th - earn extra income by becoming a reseller of this fantastic product! sign up on my webpage to become a reseller. http//www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/ http//www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/ as promised even if you dont buy my product at least follow these helpful tips and secrets. it will help us all save in the long run! 1. anticipate use your brakes less and dont accelerate quickly. look far down the road ahead even if far means half a city block. get into position for turn-lanes smoothly and early so that you dont have to accelerate to get in front of traffic. remember that the guy who leaves the stoplight the quickest also pays more at the pump. anticipate stops or slow-downs ahead and take your foot off the gas try to coast much more than you brake. see a long train at the rr crossing ahead get your foot off the gas immediately. you can idle forward in drive for a long way without braking for 30% less fuel than sitting in drive and nearly the same fuel use as sitting in park. remember any additional distance you coast will save fuel and extend your brake-pad life. 2. minimize idling and idle smart engines only need 10 to 30 seconds for warm-up and idling your engine for more than a minute typically costs more fuel than re-starting it. so avoid the drive-thru lines at the bank and the fast-food shop instead of sitting in line park and go inside. but when you must idle with an automatic transmission put the transmission in neutral or park while youre waiting this will cut your fuel usage at idle by 15-35% depending on the vehicle. if you have a manual transmission dont use the clutch to keep from rolling back - use the brake. this will save fuel and extend your clutch life. 3. use cruise control. its proven to save fuel. but heres a secret... its not just for cruising. using the resume button on your cruise control can be a handy compromise to provide reasonable acceleration times that dont irritate drivers behind you without wasting excessive fuel. 4. overdrive and gear selection. if you have an automatic with overdrive use the overdrive. if you have a manual transmission shift early to keep engine rpms lower and be sure to use the highest gear for highway cruising. 5. slow down. as you increase speed above 60 mph wind resistance starts increasing dramatically as a percentage of total fuel consumption. estimates are that every mile over 60 mph costs you 1% in fuel economy. in other words when you speed youre paying more at the gas pump. 6. watch your tire choice. replacing your tires/wheels with wider and/or taller ones may look awesome but keep in mind that your choice could have a 1 to 3% penalty in fuel economy... or even more in extreme cases like monster truck tires/wheels. 7. carefully consider your route and the time of day traffic flow is a huge factor. for example see the picture to the right. those vehicle-following-distances are typical of traffic in many large cities. if this highway traffic is stop-and-go fuel economy will be bad. on the other extreme if the traffic is moving smoothly and fast at 60 - 80 mph then your fuel economy is going to be superb those rushing vehicles create a jet-stream of air which dramatically reduces your wind-drag losses - 10 to 30% improvements are possible. for maximum fuel economy follow a larger vehicle and use your cruise control just bump speed up/down 1 mph to adjust. also keep in mind the wind direction if theres a strong wind blowing in from the right and you drive in the right lane you get no break in wind resistance.

From : beekeep

my dealer charges $67.12 to change the oil in my 04 cummings. is that about the going price they are a bit slow took 2 1/2 hours today with an appointment. al in tucson i pay about 75 in the dfw area at the oil xchange. includes oil and filter and there laughable 27 point free check out where they charge you 3.00 bucks to top off your anti-freeze. -- ------moparman------ ---scud coordinates 32.61204 north 96.92989 west--- --remove clothes to reply!-- tedward said eggs are really good for you. they have all the nutrition needed to make a chicken. .

From : azwiley1

on mon 29 oct 2007 170952 -0700 azwiley1 wiley156@yahoo.com wrote on oct 29 303 pm hone...@radix.net beekeep wrote on mon 29 oct 2007 082715 -0700 azwiley1 wiley...@yahoo.com wrote on oct 29 321 am hone...@radix.net beekeep wrote on sun 28 oct 2007 170931 -0700 azwiley1 wiley...@yahoo.com wrote on oct 28 505 pm tom lawrence tlawren...@earthlink.net wrote last i checked the fill plug was a threaded plug. every 9.25 rear differential ive seen has had a rubber plug in the diff cover. fine so i was mistaken about this. is everyone happy now though as i recall my 95 had a screw in but who cares. ok snowjr. 8 beekeep wrong hey wont post anything with an admission of any type that would indicate he was wrong. now go back to calling scores on football games would ya. hey give me a break i called the skins offense scoring one td right on the money! now go back to chasing road runners. beep beep beekeep- hide quoted text - - show quoted text - chasing them is more fun then working or being in here now if i could only get acme to start paying me for using and promoting their products! id be careful using those acme products. the way they work makes you think that they are manufatured by snowman. beekeep .

From : azwiley1

moparman wrote on oct 29 245 pm moparman scott.hendryx.clot...@sbcglobal.net wrote anyone know how to manual eject a cd from the dodge ram 4 speaker am/fm/cd stock radio -- ------moparman------ ---scud coordinates 32.61204 north 96.92989 west--- --remove clothes to reply!-- tedward said eggs are really good for you. they have all the nutrition needed to make a chicken. that depends on how far into the player the disc is stuck. if there is a little sticking out you should be able to grab the end with a pair of needle nose and pull it out as the mechanism will not be engaged and hold it. if it is stuck all the way in youll have to pull the deck out open the case and roll the worm gears manually to get it out. they dont have manual override or ecject pins on them. crap i was afraid of that. i had the radio out yesterday but was unable to easily disconnect the antennae is there a trick or do you just yank that puppy outta there if you dont want to pull it out get a thin stiff flat piece of plastic or wood. put a small glob of tack it stuff you can find at an office supply store used to stick things on a wall when they dont want to use thumb tacks. or even some thin double stick tape. use a penlight to look in there and tag the cd then pull it out. -- steve w. near cooperstown new york nra member pacifism - the theory that if theyd fed jeffrey dahmer enough human flesh hed have become a vegan. .

From : beekeep

well.....it was pats vs.skins. so you did kinda get it right. on sun 28 oct 2007 190228 -0400 bill bargerw@bellsouth.net wrote hey i guy has to have hope! couldnt go higher than 21 points for the skins and that figures special teams to score a td and the defense to do the same. beekeep hey i was close! beekeep .

From : azwiley1

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From : tbone

on oct 29 622 pm moparman scott.hendryx.clot...@sbcglobal.net wrote on oct 29 245 pm moparman scott.hendryx.clot...@sbcglobal.net wrote anyone know how to manual eject a cd from the dodge ram 4 speaker am/fm/cd stock radio -- ------moparman------ ---scud coordinates 32.61204 north 96.92989 west--- --remove clothes to reply!-- tedward said eggs are really good for you. they have all the nutrition needed to make a chicken. that depends on how far into the player the disc is stuck. if there is a little sticking out you should be able to grab the end with a pair of needle nose and pull it out as the mechanism will not be engaged and hold it. if it is stuck all the way in youll have to pull the deck out open the case and roll the worm gears manually to get it out. they dont have manual override or ecject pins on them. crap i was afraid of that. i had the radio out yesterday but was unable to easily disconnect the antennae is there a trick or do you just yank that puppy outta there -- ------moparman------ ---scud coordinates 32.61204 north 96.92989 west--- --remove clothes to reply!-- tedward said eggs are really good for you. they have all the nutrition needed to make a chicken.- hide quoted text - - show quoted text - what year truck if it doesnt just pull out then you have the type that locks in just push in with your thumb on the antenna elbox a little and then pull the black ring around it backwards and it should just pop right out. .

From : tbone

on oct 30 754 am tbone no...@nothere.com wrote then i suggest that you look again. the dc 9 1/2 rear just uses a rubber plug now for the fill. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving on oct 28 1216 pm denny wddo...@woh.rr.com wrote on oct 28 953 am denny wddo...@woh.rr.com wrote on oct 28 851 am rick505 lott1...@aol.com wrote over pressures and poped the plug outyour nuts snowman how can a threaded plug pop out the only way it can come out is if the threads were gone or was not tight and it would unscrew and fall off not pop out under pressure also if it built up too much pressure it would blow the axle seals or pinion seal first not blow the plug. -- message posted more information athttp//www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html come on the answer came from snoman it must be right! snoman is this answer based off your vast technical abilities the same abilities that you told roy he lacked the same abilities that led you to tell a poster to trade in a truck due to a bad $30 sensor god i hate to do this but in snoidiots defence it is a rubber plug that just pops in. but i do think hes full of shit about the vent plugged and the heat and the resulting pressure forced it out. that is stuff for grimms fairy tales. somebody just forgot to put it back in when they checked the level. to the original poster get a quart or two of fluid fill it up and put and new plug in it. drive on and be happy. if there was any damage you would have heard the noise. denny- hide quoted text - - show quoted text - i was not refering to the pop off valve denny. neither was i. im fairly sure the fill hole just has a rubber plug stuck in it. but thats ok larry i know you and the snoidiot are like brothers..... gbmfg last i checked the fill plug was a threaded plug. thanks for causing me to chuck my lunch f#$%ing wabbit! bg- hide quoted text - - show quoted text - and i suggest you stfu and stop coming into a thread so late. .

From : snoman

from the looks of it the skins didnt show up! btw roy since you moved from ne dont you think it is about time you started following your home town team a little closer and stop worrying about the pat. i mean come on jax needs your support. lol!!! its the pats and indy next week. whats your prediction on that one i hate to say it but go pats! for this game only bg denny .

From : napalmheart

new to this group. this is a test. .

From : napalmheart

from the looks of it the skins didnt show up! btw roy since you moved from ne dont you think it is about time you started following your home town team a little closer and stop worrying about the pat. i mean come on jax needs your support. .

From : denny

the heater on my daughters new durango isnt putting out as much heat as it should. i found the coolant was about a gallon low and the lower radiator hose clamp was the culprit. even after topping off the system its still not producing enough heat for the upcoming montana winter. on the interstate it does fine but as soon as you come to a stop the air temp drops to just a little above warm. its acting like its still low on coolant but the coolant level is fine now. the coolant housing has a bleed hole with a bolt on it is air lock a common issue when/how do you use this weep hole thanks the little bleed hole is used for getting the air out of the system. open it up and shut it when coolant starts coming out. your description sounds more like a restricted heater core. is one of the heater hoses a bit cooler that the other one at the firewall you may need to flush the core and see if you can get some of the gunk out. denny .

From : abby normal

honesty has nothing to do with it. the dealership was probably the one that installed it back incorrectly thus causing it to fall out. ive been there with a differential rebuild and drive shaft incorrectly installed. that could have killed me. besides that a stupid rubber plug is less than a half-assed way of doing it anyway. it should be a screw in plug. chrysler has always taken the short way of doing things and are the last ones to make a recall on any design issue - 1st. generation neon head gasket for example. when you get a warranty on something and crap like this happens whos fault is it anyway!! that plug was probably never there when the guy bought the truck in the first place. and do not elaborate on the 121 point check list crap either. ive been there too. bad headlight and bad brake light bulbs on a nice little used dakota from a dealership after one of those check lists was completed. i had to point both problems out to the technician before i left and he tried to tell me they worked before i left the lot. i never left the lot. i pointed both issues out to him not 10 minutes after he was finished. the 121 check point is some idiot sitting there checking off boxes and never looking at anything on the vehicle. honesty shit that is supposed to work both ways. no that plug was probably missing off the lot and nobody caught it until now. you pay big bucks for those warranties and should get something in return. you should also expect to get what you pay for - not less. i also bet the maintenance history shows that truck was last serviced at this dealership and the differential grease was changed. a little touchy arent we... must have struck a nerve. i guess i remember something about two wrongs making a right......or something like that.. have fun denny .

From : abby normal

azwiley1 wrote on oct 28 1216 pm denny wddo...@woh.rr.com wrote on oct 28 953 am denny wddo...@woh.rr.com wrote on oct 28 851 am rick505 lott1...@aol.com wrote over pressures and poped the plug outyour nuts snowman how can a threaded plug pop out the only way it can come out is if the threads were gone or was not tight and it would unscrew and fall off not pop out under pressure also if it built up too much pressure it would blow the axle seals or pinion seal first not blow the plug. -- message posted more information athttp//www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html come on the answer came from snoman it must be right! snoman is this answer based off your vast technical abilities the same abilities that you told roy he lacked the same abilities that led you to tell a poster to trade in a truck due to a bad $30 sensor god i hate to do this but in snoidiots defence it is a rubber plug that just pops in. but i do think hes full of shit about the vent plugged and the heat and the resulting pressure forced it out. that is stuff for grimms fairy tales. somebody just forgot to put it back in when they checked the level. to the original poster get a quart or two of fluid fill it up and put and new plug in it. drive on and be happy. if there was any damage you would have heard the noise. denny- hide quoted text - - show quoted text - i was not refering to the pop off valve denny. neither was i. im fairly sure the fill hole just has a rubber plug stuck in it. but thats ok larry i know you and the snoidiot are like brothers..... gbmfg last i checked the fill plug was a threaded plug. last you checked on what a 2004 dakota your chevy you never know what youre talking about. .

From : azwiley1

honesty has nothing to do with it. the dealership was probably the one that installed it back incorrectly thus causing it to fall out. ive been there with a differential rebuild and drive shaft incorrectly installed. that could have killed me. besides that a stupid rubber plug is less than a half-assed way of doing it anyway. it should be a screw in plug. chrysler has always taken the short way of doing things and are the last ones to make a recall on any design issue - 1st. generation neon head gasket for example. when you get a warranty on something and crap like this happens whos fault is it anyway!! that plug was probably never there when the guy bought the truck in the first place. and do not elaborate on the 121 point check list crap either. ive been there too. bad headlight and bad brake light bulbs on a nice little used dakota from a dealership after one of those check lists was completed. i had to point both problems out to the technician before i left and he tried to tell me they worked before i left the lot. i never left the lot. i pointed both issues out to him not 10 minutes after he was finished. the 121 check point is some idiot sitting there checking off boxes and never looking at anything on the vehicle. honesty shit that is supposed to work both ways. no that plug was probably missing off the lot and nobody caught it until now. you pay big bucks for those warranties and should get something in return. you should also expect to get what you pay for - not less. i also bet the maintenance history shows that truck was last serviced at this dealership and the differential grease was changed. a little touchy arent we... must have struck a nerve. i guess i remember something about two wrongs making a right......or something like that.. have fun denny two wrongs dont make a right but three lefts do! ken .

From : snoman

over pressures and poped the plug outyour nuts snowman how can a threaded plug pop out the only way it can come out is if the threads were gone or was not tight and it would unscrew and fall off not pop out under pressure also if it built up too much pressure it would blow the axle seals or pinion seal first not blow the plug. -- more information at http//www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html .

From : beekeep

nobody got this right. i would check for a damaged or plugged vent for rear axle as it may have plugged up and over pressured when it warmed up and popped the plug out. on sat 27 oct 2007 234406 -0600 michael mykyhooha@hotmail.com wrote i purchased a 2004 dakota 4x4 about a year ago. put about 11000 km on it since then. currently has about 48000 km. noticed today that the plug/stopper from my rear axle differential was missing. dont know where it went or how long its been missing. the truck is always road driven. i cannot touch any fluid when i put my finger into it but a piece of wire comes back with some oil on it. i havent noticed any excessive noise but then again i havent really been listening for it. the truck still has power train warranty for a couple of years. i made a couple of anonymous calls to dealers today explaining the situation and asking if warranty would cover it if anything was wrong. both service departments said i would have to talk to the manager. both also said they have never heard of a plug falling out. im freaking out and terrified that this may somehow void my warranty. i purposely bought this truck because it had warranty. what the hell do i do now ----------------- thesnoman.com .

From : nosey

why not harvick wins the cup! beekeep on sun 28 oct 2007 002605 -0400 kens nospam@4.me wrote greg i was in laplata last week on bid-ness and read about your bee theft in a local paper. sorry about the loss...but while you are grief stricken and delusional ...want to give a prediction on the chase race. ken s hey i guy has to have hope! couldnt go higher than 21 points for the skins and that figures special teams to score a td and the defense to do the same. beekeep .

From : denny

on oct 28 138 pm beryl terra...@coolbits.net wrote azwiley1 wrote on oct 28 1216 pm denny wddo...@woh.rr.com wrote on oct 28 953 am denny wddo...@woh.rr.com wrote on oct 28 851 am rick505 lott1...@aol.com wrote over pressures and poped the plug outyour nuts snowman how can a threaded plug pop out the only way it can come out is if the threads were gone or was not tight and it would unscrew and fall off not pop out under pressure also if it built up too much pressure it would blow the axle seals or pinion seal first not blow the plug. -- message posted more information athttp//www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html come on the answer came from snoman it must be right! snoman is this answer based off your vast technical abilities the same abilities that you told roy he lacked the same abilities that led you to tell a poster to trade in a truck due to a bad $30 sensor god i hate to do this but in snoidiots defence it is a rubber plug that just pops in. but i do think hes full of shit about the vent plugged and the heat and the resulting pressure forced it out. that is stuff for grimms fairy tales. somebody just forgot to put it back in when they checked the level. to the original poster get a quart or two of fluid fill it up and put and new plug in it. drive on and be happy. if there was any damage you would have heard the noise. denny- hide quoted text - - show quoted text - i was not refering to the pop off valve denny. neither was i. im fairly sure the fill hole just has a rubber plug stuck in it. but thats ok larry i know you and the snoidiot are like brothers..... gbmfg last i checked the fill plug was a threaded plug. last you checked on what a 2004 dakota your chevy you never know what youre talking about.- hide quoted text - - show quoted text - i never know what i am talking about huh and you know what i do all day every day to make that statement i know that you suck on snoballs dick every day. .

From : beryl

the heater on my daughters new durango isnt putting out as much heat as it should. i found the coolant was about a gallon low and the lower radiator hose clamp was the culprit. even after topping off the system its still not producing enough heat for the upcoming montana winter. on the interstate it does fine but as soon as you come to a stop the air temp drops to just a little above warm. its acting like its still low on coolant but the coolant level is fine now. the coolant housing has a bleed hole with a bolt on it is air lock a common issue when/how do you use this weep hole thanks -- nathan in montana http//concealedcarryforum.com http//1911talk.com http//hipowertalk.com http//glockcarry.com http//p99sw99.com http//ppstalk.com http//p7talk.com .

From : denny

on oct 28 1031 am abby.normal back....@nospam.net wrote park that thing in your driveway and you know the neighbors would bitch. not to mention the gestapo hoa if you are unfortunate to live where there is one. hey maybe max should buy it! bg ouch!! g denny .

From : abby normal

on oct 28 1031 am abby.normal back....@nospam.net wrote park that thing in your driveway and you know the neighbors would bitch. not to mention the gestapo hoa if you are unfortunate to live where there is one. hey maybe max should buy it! bg .

From : miles

park that thing in your driveway and you know the neighbors would bitch. not to mention the gestapo hoa if you are unfortunate to live where there is one. if you cant dodge em - ram em. or in this case - plow em under on sat 27 oct 2007 193528 -0400 nosey kfrei43@removethis.hotmail.com wrote i found this odd looking dodge truck for sale. its only $1200. i wonder if the plow is included. http//www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jspcarid=232544386 seems like a pretty good deal though... hell of a lawn tractor.. is it ram tough mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : denny

mac davis wrote logic seems to tell me that if there was pressure on the plug it wouldnt vibrate loose because there was pressure against the threads not so. applying pressure to a loose plug bolt screw etc. can cause it to turn. but i believe the pressure required to push it all he way out would be greater than the seals. also if the plug were tightened i do not believe the pressure inside would be great enough to loosen it. i work in force measurement. part of the product testing involves generating force through use of a bolt against a force transducer that measures such force. if left sitting the bolt will eventually turn itself loose. .

From : mac davis

on oct 28 851 am rick505 lott1...@aol.com wrote over pressures and poped the plug outyour nuts snowman how can a threaded plug pop out the only way it can come out is if the threads were gone or was not tight and it would unscrew and fall off not pop out under pressure also if it built up too much pressure it would blow the axle seals or pinion seal first not blow the plug. -- message posted more information athttp//www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html come on the answer came from snoman it must be right! snoman is this answer based off your vast technical abilities the same abilities that you told roy he lacked the same abilities that led you to tell a poster to trade in a truck due to a bad $30 sensor god i hate to do this but in snoidiots defence it is a rubber plug that just pops in. but i do think hes full of shit about the vent plugged and the heat and the resulting pressure forced it out. that is stuff for grimms fairy tales. somebody just forgot to put it back in when they checked the level. to the original poster get a quart or two of fluid fill it up and put and new plug in it. drive on and be happy. if there was any damage you would have heard the noise. denny .

From : rick505

on sat 27 oct 2007 193528 -0400 nosey kfrei43@removethis.hotmail.com wrote i found this odd looking dodge truck for sale. its only $1200. i wonder if the plow is included. http//www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jspcarid=232544386 seems like a pretty good deal though... hell of a lawn tractor.. is it ram tough mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : roy

then they must have changed it between 2000 then back again to 2007. my sons old 2000 dakota current 98 dakota and my 2007 dakota all have rubber plugs. ive never looked at the 2004 though. on oct 28 1216 pm denny wddo...@woh.rr.com wrote on oct 28 953 am denny wddo...@woh.rr.com wrote on oct 28 851 am rick505 lott1...@aol.com wrote over pressures and poped the plug outyour nuts snowman how can a threaded plug pop out the only way it can come out is if the threads were gone or was not tight and it would unscrew and fall off not pop out under pressure also if it built up too much pressure it would blow the axle seals or pinion seal first not blow the plug. -- message posted more information athttp//www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html come on the answer came from snoman it must be right! snoman is this answer based off your vast technical abilities the same abilities that you told roy he lacked the same abilities that led you to tell a poster to trade in a truck due to a bad $30 sensor god i hate to do this but in snoidiots defence it is a rubber plug that just pops in. but i do think hes full of shit about the vent plugged and the heat and the resulting pressure forced it out. that is stuff for grimms fairy tales. somebody just forgot to put it back in when they checked the level. to the original poster get a quart or two of fluid fill it up and put and new plug in it. drive on and be happy. if there was any damage you would have heard the noise. denny- hide quoted text - - show quoted text - i was not refering to the pop off valve denny. neither was i. im fairly sure the fill hole just has a rubber plug stuck in it. but thats ok larry i know you and the snoidiot are like brothers..... gbmfg last i checked the fill plug was a threaded plug. thanks for causing me to chuck my lunch f#$%ing wabbit! bg .

From : azwiley1

honesty has nothing to do with it. the dealership was probably the one that installed it back incorrectly thus causing it to fall out. ive been there with a differential rebuild and drive shaft incorrectly installed. that could have killed me. besides that a stupid rubber plug is less than a half-assed way of doing it anyway. it should be a screw in plug. chrysler has always taken the short way of doing things and are the last ones to make a recall on any design issue - 1st. generation neon head gasket for example. when you get a warranty on something and crap like this happens whos fault is it anyway!! that plug was probably never there when the guy bought the truck in the first place. and do not elaborate on the 121 point check list crap either. ive been there too. bad headlight and bad brake light bulbs on a nice little used dakota from a dealership after one of those check lists was completed. i had to point both problems out to the technician before i left and he tried to tell me they worked before i left the lot. i never left the lot. i pointed both issues out to him not 10 minutes after he was finished. the 121 check point is some idiot sitting there checking off boxes and never looking at anything on the vehicle. honesty shit that is supposed to work both ways. no that plug was probably missing off the lot and nobody caught it until now. you pay big bucks for those warranties and should get something in return. you should also expect to get what you pay for - not less. i also bet the maintenance history shows that truck was last serviced at this dealership and the differential grease was changed. do this go buy a new or used plug and a quart of synthetic 75/90w gear lube. fill the differentials to where it just starts to over flow both front and rear if required - they both take the same weight. install the new or used plug and drive it for a week or so. then take it to a dealership you trust or any place you trust that can honor the warranty and have them do a fluid change on it. the differential fluids are supposed to be changed every 15k miles anyway. and while you are there have them do the transmission as well automatics are done at 15k as well. i dont know what the schedule is for manual transmissions but it is probably the same. this will make them responsible if anything happens after that. yep this is the honest way to do it... i bet your mom would be proud of you huh....cover up the problem and then take it to a place you trust and then screw them to death.... denny i would not go in there without a plug in the hole though. they will look at that as a real bad thing and may work harder to figure out what to tell you as to why your warranty is void than actually doing any real work on the vehicle. get a plug from a wrecking yard. there has to be a dodge in one of them somewhere. you may find a lot more fords than anything else then a few chevys. im certain there is a dodge in one though. in the mean time put some grease in there and plug that damn hole with something. use a wine cork or something - just get it plugged now. i purchased a 2004 dakota 4x4 about a year ago. put about 11000 km on it since then. currently has about 48000 km. noticed today that the plug/stopper from my rear axle differential was missing. dont know where it went or how long its been missing. the truck is always road driven. i cannot touch any fluid when i put my finger into it but a piece of wire comes back with some oil on it. i havent noticed any excessive noise but then again i havent really been listening for it. the truck still has power train warranty for a couple of years. i made a couple of anonymous calls to dealers today explaining the situation and asking if warranty would cover it if anything was wrong. both service departments said i would have to talk to the manager. both also said they have never heard of a plug falling out. im freaking out and terrified that this may somehow void my warranty. i purposely bought this truck because it had warranty. what the hell do i do now .

From : ed

on sat 27 oct 2007 234406 -0600 michael mykyhooha@hotmail.com wrote i purchased a 2004 dakota 4x4 about a year ago. put about 11000 km on it since then. currently has about 48000 km. noticed today that the plug/stopper from my rear axle differential was missing. dont know where it went or how long its been missing. the truck is always road driven. i cannot touch any fluid when i put my finger into it but a piece of wire comes back with some oil on it. i havent noticed any excessive noise but then again i havent really been listening for it. the truck still has power train warranty for a couple of years. i made a couple of anonymous calls to dealers today explaining the situation and asking if warranty would cover it if anything was wrong. both service departments said i would have to talk to the manager. both also said they have never heard of a plug falling out. im freaking out and terrified that this may somehow void my warranty. i purposely bought this truck because it had warranty. what the hell do i do now i would pull the cover and take a look see for any damage. if the metal shavings etc are minimal i would clean it out and replace the plug and fluid. if they are more than minimal and everything looks and sounds ok then i would do the same and change the fluid again in about a month. beekeep .

From : denny

on oct 28 1216 pm denny wddo...@woh.rr.com wrote on oct 28 953 am denny wddo...@woh.rr.com wrote on oct 28 851 am rick505 lott1...@aol.com wrote over pressures and poped the plug outyour nuts snowman how can a threaded plug pop out the only way it can come out is if the threads were gone or was not tight and it would unscrew and fall off not pop out under pressure also if it built up too much pressure it would blow the axle seals or pinion seal first not blow the plug. -- message posted more information athttp//www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html come on the answer came from snoman it must be right! snoman is this answer based off your vast technical abilities the same abilities that you told roy he lacked the same abilities that led you to tell a poster to trade in a truck due to a bad $30 sensor god i hate to do this but in snoidiots defence it is a rubber plug that just pops in. but i do think hes full of shit about the vent plugged and the heat and the resulting pressure forced it out. that is stuff for grimms fairy tales. somebody just forgot to put it back in when they checked the level. to the original poster get a quart or two of fluid fill it up and put and new plug in it. drive on and be happy. if there was any damage you would have heard the noise. denny- hide quoted text - - show quoted text - i was not refering to the pop off valve denny. neither was i. im fairly sure the fill hole just has a rubber plug stuck in it. but thats ok larry i know you and the snoidiot are like brothers..... gbmfg last i checked the fill plug was a threaded plug. thanks for causing me to chuck my lunch f#$%ing wabbit! bg .

From : azwiley1

do this go buy a new or used plug and a quart of synthetic 75/90w gear lube. fill the differentials to where it just starts to over flow both front and rear if required - they both take the same weight. install the new or used plug and drive it for a week or so. then take it to a dealership you trust or any place you trust that can honor the warranty and have them do a fluid change on it. the differential fluids are supposed to be changed every 15k miles anyway. and while you are there have them do the transmission as well automatics are done at 15k as well. i dont know what the schedule is for manual transmissions but it is probably the same. this will make them responsible if anything happens after that. i would not go in there without a plug in the hole though. they will look at that as a real bad thing and may work harder to figure out what to tell you as to why your warranty is void than actually doing any real work on the vehicle. get a plug from a wrecking yard. there has to be a dodge in one of them somewhere. you may find a lot more fords than anything else then a few chevys. im certain there is a dodge in one though. in the mean time put some grease in there and plug that damn hole with something. use a wine cork or something - just get it plugged now. i purchased a 2004 dakota 4x4 about a year ago. put about 11000 km on it since then. currently has about 48000 km. noticed today that the plug/stopper from my rear axle differential was missing. dont know where it went or how long its been missing. the truck is always road driven. i cannot touch any fluid when i put my finger into it but a piece of wire comes back with some oil on it. i havent noticed any excessive noise but then again i havent really been listening for it. the truck still has power train warranty for a couple of years. i made a couple of anonymous calls to dealers today explaining the situation and asking if warranty would cover it if anything was wrong. both service departments said i would have to talk to the manager. both also said they have never heard of a plug falling out. im freaking out and terrified that this may somehow void my warranty. i purposely bought this truck because it had warranty. what the hell do i do now .

From : azwiley1

on sun 28 oct 2007 104551 -0400 nosey kfrei43@removethis.hotmail.com wrote snoman wrote nobody got this right. i would check for a damaged or plugged vent for rear axle as it may have plugged up and over pressured when it warmed up and popped the plug out. i think it would pop the vent hose off before it blew out a threaded solid steel pipe plug. i could be wrong but i just dont see it happening. logic seems to tell me that if there was pressure on the plug it wouldnt vibrate loose because there was pressure against the threads mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : nosey

on oct 28 851 am rick505 lott1...@aol.com wrote over pressures and poped the plug outyour nuts snowman how can a threaded plug pop out the only way it can come out is if the threads were gone or was not tight and it would unscrew and fall off not pop out under pressure also if it built up too much pressure it would blow the axle seals or pinion seal first not blow the plug. -- more information athttp//www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html come on the answer came from snoman it must be right! snoman is this answer based off your vast technical abilities the same abilities that you told roy he lacked the same abilities that led you to tell a poster to trade in a truck due to a bad $30 sensor .

From : roy

on oct 28 953 am denny wddo...@woh.rr.com wrote on oct 28 851 am rick505 lott1...@aol.com wrote over pressures and poped the plug outyour nuts snowman how can a threaded plug pop out the only way it can come out is if the threads were gone or was not tight and it would unscrew and fall off not pop out under pressure also if it built up too much pressure it would blow the axle seals or pinion seal first not blow the plug. -- message posted more information athttp//www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html come on the answer came from snoman it must be right! snoman is this answer based off your vast technical abilities the same abilities that you told roy he lacked the same abilities that led you to tell a poster to trade in a truck due to a bad $30 sensor god i hate to do this but in snoidiots defence it is a rubber plug that just pops in. but i do think hes full of shit about the vent plugged and the heat and the resulting pressure forced it out. that is stuff for grimms fairy tales. somebody just forgot to put it back in when they checked the level. to the original poster get a quart or two of fluid fill it up and put and new plug in it. drive on and be happy. if there was any damage you would have heard the noise. denny- hide quoted text - - show quoted text - i was not refering to the pop off valve denny. but yes if the only thing in question or debate here was the vent valve then yes all said would be logically correct. however from what has been indicated it sounds like the fill plug was what was/is missing. sorry but the amount of force read pressure that would need to be created to blow out a properly inserted threaded fill plug would have likely damaged the diff housing. so like you and others have indicated the op should buy some diff lube making sure he gets the correct type as he may or may not have an lsd fill it to the proper level and put in a new fill plug. however at this point the locigal thing to do would be to pop the diff cover off and inspect it as there is no indication how long it has been like this. but all is forgiven denny since you and snoball are such great friends. i wont hold this against you. bg .

From : azwiley1

on oct 29 245 pm moparman scott.hendryx.clot...@sbcglobal.net wrote anyone know how to manual eject a cd from the dodge ram 4 speaker am/fm/cd stock radio -- ------moparman------ ---scud coordinates 32.61204 north 96.92989 west--- --remove clothes to reply!-- tedward said eggs are really good for you. they have all the nutrition needed to make a chicken. that depends on how far into the player the disc is stuck. if there is a little sticking out you should be able to grab the end with a pair of needle nose and pull it out as the mechanism will not be engaged and hold it. if it is stuck all the way in youll have to pull the deck out open the case and roll the worm gears manually to get it out. they dont have manual override or ecject pins on them. crap i was afraid of that. i had the radio out yesterday but was unable to easily disconnect the antennae is there a trick or do you just yank that puppy outta there -- ------moparman------ ---scud coordinates 32.61204 north 96.92989 west--- --remove clothes to reply!-- tedward said eggs are really good for you. they have all the nutrition needed to make a chicken. .

From : beekeep

beekeep wrote on mon 29 oct 2007 142834 -0700 blpp963@yahoo.com wrote how do i replace my 2004 dodge diesel fuel filter take old filter out put new filter back. beekeep thats pretty much what the book says but in much fewer words. you should be a technical writer. fuel filter replacement the fuel filter is located inside of the fuel filter housing. removal a clean all debris from around canister. b remove filter lid using a socket. attach socket to large hex on top of lid. rotate counter-clockwise for removal. remove o-ring. discard o-ring. c remove filter element by twisting element sideways from filter lid. installation a thoroughly clean inside of filter housing filter cap and all related components. b install new o-ring to canister lid and lubricate o-ring with clean engine oil. c position new element to canister lid. place this assembly into canister by rotating clockwise. d tighten cap to 34 nm 25 ft. lbs. torque. do not overtighten cap. standard procedure - fuel system priming a certain amount of air becomes trapped in the fuel system when fuel system components on the supply and/or high-pressure side are serviced or replaced. fuel system priming is accomplished using the electric fuel transfer lift pump. servicing or replacing fuel system components will not require fuel system priming. the fuel transfer lift pump is self-priming when the key is first turned on without cranking engine the pump operates for approximately 1 to 2 second and then shuts off. the pump will also operate for up to 25 seconds after the starter is quickly engaged and then disengaged without allowing the engine to start. the pump shuts off immediately if the key is on and the engine stops running. 1 turn key to crank position and quickly release key to on position before engine starts. this will operate fuel transfer pump for approximately 25 seconds. 2 crank engine. if the engine does not start after 25 seconds turn key off. repeat previous step until engine starts. 3 fuel system priming is now completed. 4 attempt to start engine. if engine will not start proceed to following steps. when engine does start it may run erratically and be noisy for a few minutes. this is a normal condition. caution do not engage the starter motor for more than 30 seconds at a time. allow two minutes between cranking intervals. -- ken .