Diesel SUV's
From : christopher thompson
Q: christopher thompson wrote i know the liberty but i understand there are a few other options... what is offered now the grand cherokee has a mercedes 3.0l in what years and what else you could get a new vw v-10 tdi twin turbo touareg 2. starting price is a bit steep at $68320. i just added some options to one at vw.com and it went up to $82063. if you want a used one i think they started making touaregs in 2003 and added the diesel option in 2004. -- ken .
Replies:
From : trent
$471e2c13$2672@alltel.net i know the liberty but i understand there are a few other options... what is offered now the grand cherokee has a mercedes 3.0l in what years and what else the sprinter is available with a diesel now. plenty of room for kids. ive seen them full windows and seats. no idea what the prices are = try dodge.com .
From : nathan w collier
i have a 97 dodge ram 1500 when i turn it on when its cold it idles fine but when it warms up it stops idleing. it still idles high but once it gets past the warming up stage it stops idleing low. does anyone have any ideas on what i can do i dont have the money to take it to a shop. we changed the oil and cleaned the air filter but thats not what it is. please help liz .
From : brewster
i have a 97 dodge ram 1500 when i turn it on when its cold it idles fine but when it warms up it stops idleing. it still idles high but once it gets past the warming up stage it stops idleing low. does anyone have any ideas on what i can do i dont have the money to take it to a shop. we changed the oil and cleaned the air filter but thats not what it is. please help liz there isnt a lot you can do except take it in to a shop and find what the error code is from the computer. the idle process from cold to warm is controlled by many different sensors but usually is not an extremely expensive fix. the description you give is a bit vague too. what exactly does the engine do when it warms up does it just die does it idle rough ed .
From : azwiley1
on oct 21 256 pm nathan w. collier n...@way.com wrote doesnt ford offer the excursion in diesel depending on your budget the h1 is available with the duramax. nah they stopped that a couple years ago as i recall. yeah they stopped that all together. no longer made. i was considering purchasing one since its bigger than the suburban and newer suburbans dont have diesel. i remember reading something not too long ago that they are suppose to be coming out with a diesel in the h2. .
From : christopher thompson
you may want to try squirting some wd-40 on the exposed threads of that plug there isnt much room but there may be enough to get some into the threading area; let it sit for an hour or so to penetrate some; then try to ease it back in to the head just a little - 1/4 to 1/2 turn or so. squirt more wd-40 on it; wait an hour or so; then try easing it out some - 1/2 to 1 full turn. repeat that back in and out process until you get it out. if you get it out without messing the threads up then get a thread restoring tool and try to screw that in to the head and see if it helps. you may want to turn the crank to get that piston to tdc before you start to help keep the crap from going too far down into the calendar. if you can vacuum or blow out the crap after you get that plug out it will help. any other suggestions from others on how to get that plug out without breaking anything ive never had that problem before but have heard of others having it though. i am way over due. the only tune up ive done in the past 10-15 years was on my 55 chevy during its restoration. i put a new set of plugs in my 98 dakota when i replaced the water pump at 90k miles but didnt have to. the existing plugs looked good and they were the original ones. 1997 dakota 3.9l w/ 170k miles. sorry in advance; for me to explain this thoroughly will require a lengthy post. two years ago i did my 150k mile and most recent complete tuneup and when i went to remove spark plug #5 at that time it just about wouldnt budge. i dont recall having any such spark plug problems before... but for some reason at 150k miles that #5 was a bear to remove. i did get it out and to my surprise the threads on the plug looked ok w/ no extra metal or chewed threads. then when i went to put the new plug in with anti-seize it wouldnt finger tighten past about 1 or 2 revolutions. i carefully tightened it the rest of the way with a socket and it was rough going but i got it tightened and never had anymore problems with it... until now. over the past few days ive noticed a definite misfire under acceleration but it isnt constant... it comes and goes. well today i pulled a p0305 #5 misfire code. i put new wires on and it made no difference. i inspected inside the distributor cap and everything looks uniform ie #5 doesnt look any different than the others. so i hesitantly tried to remove plug #5 and just like last time its really hard to turn. i backed it out about 1 revolution and then chickened out - it wasnt getting easier it actually started getting harder to turn. i am fairly but cannot be completely sure that i never cross- threaded it - i always finger tighten the plugs. im perplexed because the plug threads looked ok after i fought to get it out last time. ive come up with 4 potential explanations for this new misfire 1 some plug holes just become stubborn and maybe i inadvertantly damaged the plugs insulator while trying to get that new #5 installed last time and maybe its now starting to bleed voltage in a short circuit on occasion. this is my best case scenario. 2 maybe the threads did get damaged or crossed despite my finger tightening rule and despite the threads looking ok last time i had the plug out after fighting with it. rust or crud could have hitched a ride into the threads 2 tuneups ago and welded the plug in place. the idea here is that its losing compression or something due to screwed up threads. can damaged threads do that maybe time for a helicoil 3 could be coincedental. maybe injector #5 is clogged or bad. 4 could be much worse... worn or damaged valve or seat blown head gasket cracked head etc. so i suppose my question to you all is does it sound like the stuck #5 plug could be related to my new #5 misfire which if any of my 4 explanations sounds most valid any suggestions im scared stiff at the thought of trying to remove that plug right now. thank you... dakota2112 .
From : nosey
now tom. you should know from physics that frictionless pulleys and weightless rope are common items. well i guess if helium can be weightless then just about anythings possible .