Dakota brakes etc.
From : budd cochran
Q: how many forum posters does it take to change a light bulb 1 to change the light bulb and to post that the light bulb has been changed 14 to share similar experiences of changing light bulbs and how the light bulb could have been changed differently 7 to caution about the dangers of changing light bulbs 27 to point out spelling/grammar errors in posts about changing light bulbs 53 to flame the spell checkers 41 to correct spelling/grammar flames 6 to argue over whether its lightbulb or light bulb ... another 6 to condemn those 6 as anal-retentive 2 industry professionals to inform the group that the proper term is lamp 15 know-it-alls who claim *they* were in the industry and that light bulb is perfectly correct 156 to email the participants isps complaining that they are in violation of their acceptable use policy 109 to post that this forum is not about light bulbs and to please take this discussion to a lightbulb forum 203 to demand that cross posting to hardware forum off-topic forum and lightbulb forum about changing light bulbs be stopped 111 to defend the posting to this forum saying that we all use light bulbs and therefore the posts *are* relevant to this forum 306 to debate which method of changing light bulbs is superior where to buy the best light bulbs what brand of light bulbs work best for this technique and what brands are faulty 27 to post urls where one can see examples of different light bulbs 14 to post that the urls were posted incorrectly and then post the corrected urls 3 to post about links they found from the urls that are relevant to this group which makes light bulbs relevant to this group 33 to link all posts to date quote them in their entirety including all headers and signatures and add me too 12 to post to the group that they will no longer post because they cannot handle the light bulb controversy 19 to quote the me toos to say me three 4 to suggest that posters request the light bulb faq 44 to ask what is a faq 4 to say didnt we go through this already a short time ago 143 to say do a google search on light bulbs before posting questions about light bulbs 1 forum lurker to respond to the original post 6 months from now and start it all over again rather b. beachen ratherbbeachen@hotmail.com .
Replies:
From : tbone
this clown sent this post to me direct because i guess i had been trying to help him. i dont consider his action appropriate in light of my effort to help him. i dont know what i did to warrant receiving this tirade other than trying to be helpful. he is now on my blocked email list. budd dick wrote i used the booster & mc off the same vehicle a 2000 durango. didnt think i could go wrong with that combo. i assumed with so many people complaning about high pedal preasure that chrysler engineers had screwed up on the 97-98. they changed the design in 99 to something that works good. they could have kept the bolt pattern the same on the booster so that the newer model would easily interchange. rear brake drums of 9 dia is a design flaw on a pickup 10 was optional then 11 in 2000 & now rear disc. cant blame dc for the 97 it was chrysler then. my 88 dakota had 9 also changed the axle on that when it failed to a 10 posi setup with heavyer springs off doner truck wish i had it back. chrysler removed the front axle disconnect on new series so now the front end parts wear out. my front c/v are worn out too as a result. ball joints on old 88 had 150k on them & were still tight. this 97 is ready for its 3rd. set no grease fittings on orginal equip i bought moog with grease fittings & lifetime warrany this time. i had complete pedal travel to the floor when bleeding so travel is not an issue. damiler chrysler is not god they screw up more than most auto manufactures. there designs do not take into account that these vehicles will have to be serviced economicaly. having to remove the fender liner to remove the mastercylinder is not resonable nor is removing the dashboard to replace the heater or ac componets. i have read reports of owerers of 2001 durango having to replace the heater core 3-5 times allready at $800 a pop. probably not a future dc customer! and i am a former employee of chrysler. dick you went with a smaller size master cylinder iirc which give you a mechanical advantage which lowers pedal pressure but requires more pedal travel to do the job. you may have reduced your reserve pedal to a less than safe amount by doing so. remember i did not recommend a smaller cylinder.. .
From : theguy
sounds like the cv joint. im not familiar with ram front ends but on my small cars if youre having a shop replace it i find it cheaper to replace the entire shaft as labor is easier. rams have single-cardan u-joints in their axles not cv joints. labor is about the same to replace a u joint as it is to replace the entire axle shaft maybe an extra half hour on changing the joint but parts costs are around $20 for the u-joint and probably $500 or so for the axle assembly. what would you rather pay heres a post i made on replacing those joints .
From : budd cochran
eric schattschneider wrote i have a 99 dodge and i think my front u-joint in the axle is going out. i hear a clicking when having the wheel turned right or left. what does that cost now days to replace i dont know if it is called technically a u-joint. sounds like the cv joint. im not familiar with ram front ends but on my small cars if youre having a shop replace it i find it cheaper to replace the entire shaft as labor is easier. .
From : dick
by my schedule it should have had at least 3 services 15k under normal use 4 if he hauls a lot 12k and 5 if he tows 10k ill put my money on the other schedule... change fluid when it falls apart. .
From : budd cochran
no the sound is coming right next to the tire. that u-joint. thanks eric tom lawrence wrote rams have single-cardan u-joints in their axles not cv joints. labor is about the same to replace a u joint as it is to replace the entire axle shaft maybe an extra half hour on changing the joint but parts costs are around $20 for the u-joint and probably $500 or so for the axle assembly. what would you rather pay like i stated im not familiar with the rams front end. when the cv joint went out on my 1993 nissan altima it was cheaper to have the entire shaft replaced. total cost to replace both sides was $225. if i was doing it myself where labor rates are a few beers per hour i probably wouldnt have replace the shaft. .
From : tbone
yeah go get a ford. i know 4 people that had there trannys go out before 10k on pickups and explorers. much better than a dodge! so if i change my transmission fluid every 15 000 miles i shouldnt have these transmission problems that plague about 75% of any chrysler product i dont tow i am not slamming chrysler i have 2 but lets be real what is the first thing out of anyones mouth when you ask them about chrysler products and reliability jb i get asked all the time about the tranny in my dodge i just tell em its a stick! no problems! 79 t/a ws6 455 hurst 4 spd blk w/ t-tops heavily fortified 4mpg 00 ram 2500hd qc v-10 4x4blk5 spd410 lsd 10mpg 98 intruder 1400 blk 5 spd 25mpg .
From : theguy
i know i know im just a generous kind of guy. i imagine that it does run quite well although it is probably in pretty rough shape with you pulling all of those second rate 4x4s out of the mud with it. $5200 -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving youre being very generous with that $25 but it does run good. $5195 denny what does that come to $4875 ok $5000. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving $4850 and my 87 lebaron. denny is the lebaron photo a threat bg. $4800 and a picture of my 78 magnum. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving $4750 and a picture of my 87 lebaron denny yea thats real fair like using a moab to kill a fly. but im not scscscsaarrrd. $4700 -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving as you well should be. i have a female teenager in the house backing me up. $4600 denny .