Dakota - #5 misfire and spark plug problems
From : dakota2112
Q: tom lawrence wrote i got a 94... i wish i knew which ones were wrong. you can review the answers and it shows you which were incorrect. i missed one but ive got an argument. it was the one that asked which would take the least force lifting the weight with no pulleys with one pulley at a 90 angle or with two pulleys one at a 90 pull the other with the rope hitting it on a tangent. i answered the one with no pulleys because of the added drag the pulleys would introduce. technically im right - but they wanted the answer theyre all the same. hmph.... then you missed question 31 too. theres no correct answer. .
Replies:
From : steve w falcon telenetdotnet
63 steve yup about the same age by the way he looks...... gbg denny .
From : dakota2112
hmm... i thought you were only as old as the women you feel... mac please remove splinters before emailing well if that is the case roy must feel 90 after feeling on all the retirees and widows on the beaches of fl. .
From : fmb
i drove a friends ford 2005 i think. it took off like a raped ape hot rod not a truck. both trucks are diesels. he drove mine and was shocked at how much difference there was. is this normal or is my 12v in sad shape it doesnt get down and dirty but does eventually accelerate...reminds me of the old volvos. they dont accelerate. they just eventually gain momentum. john .
From : abby normal
hello all. i just replaced all the front end parts on my brothers truck used the same control arms but new bushings and new ball joints. it is a 92 dodge d350 2wd truck with a cummins in it. the list of parts replaced is as follows -upper ball joints -lower ball joints -inner tie rod ends -outer tie rod ends -control arm bushings upper and lower -drag link -idler arm -new shocks i tried to put the adjustments back as close to where they were when i took the thing apart. when i first backed the truck out of the garage and turned the wheels all the way the outside edge of the wheel wanted to dig a trench in the yard.. i figured it was just improper alignment. i took it to the alignment shop and supposedly they aligned the truck and had no problems but when i turn the wheel all the way in either direction the wheels literally are scrubbing the tread off the tires super quickly. in fact the steering now binds to the point that the truck will stop when you have the wheel at full lock. driving in a straight line the truck wants to pull to the right and has some severe bumpsteer. it was easier to drive the thing and the tires wore less before i did anything to the truck! i am puzzled as to what is wrong if the alignment is proper.. i figured since the tires are a bit cupped from running about 10000 miles with worn ball joints the outside edges of the tires were just trying to catch up to the inside but that does not really explain the tire scrub. any ideas would really be appreciated. i am wishing i hadnt done anything to the truck now.. .
From : dakota2112
on wed 24 oct 2007 161515 -0400 roy roy@fhome.net wrote i hear that... we filled a 53 trailer to move here.. we did a 30 foot with no furniture with the exception of the wide screen and our bed. the rest was stuff garage stuff gun stuff sues cooking stuffwhich was a lot just more stuff. actually we couldnt even fit our stuff in the 53 trailer... and we took maybe 4 pieces of furniture.. lol we had to leave the washer & dryer a couple of cabinets and a bunch of stuff that just wouldnt fit in the semi the ram or the blazer.. we even sent our neighbor down in the dakota with a load.. our tools took a lot of space though... and cost us an extra $600 duty at the border... we went the other way. from a 2500+ house with a 28x26 foot garage and a 10x14 shed to a 1600 house and a 20x22 foot garage. it just isnt going to fit!! but sue is trying. told her id screw around with it for one more day then im going to be at the beach. hell i have the garage cleaned up.vbg weve already got rid of quite a bit of stuff in the last year... a lot of it was stuff that would have gone to am vets or somebody but we figured that folks down here n
From : abby normal
hi group! have been having a squealing noise coming out of the front right side of my 99 ctd. each time the belt is changed the squeal goes away for awhile but seems to always return. on the third belt now in the past several weeks. anyone in the group have any similar experience and maybe found the cure tia fred try cleaning the surfaces of the pulleys that the back of the belt rides on. ken .
From : dakota2112
on oct 24 632 am steve lusardi stevenos...@lusardi.de wrote snipage i suspect i might have a dead fuel injector. i should be able to verify this by pulling a couple spark plugs removing the ignition fuse and cranking the engine over right a good injector would result in gas squirting out the hole whereas a dead #5 injector would result in nothing coming out - thats my theory probably not a good thing to have gasoline spraying out with flamability issues and benzene and such. how about pulling a spark plug wire and see if it makes any difference in the smoothness of the engine or drive around for awhile and pull the new plugs again and find out which one is totally clean. fmb north mexico .
From : steve lusardi
most likely an idler pulley bearing hi group! have been having a squealing noise coming out of the front right side of my 99 ctd. each time the belt is changed the squeal goes away for awhile but seems to always return. on the third belt now in the past several weeks. anyone in the group have any similar experience and maybe found the cure tia fred .
From : abby normal
sounds like a chunk of carbon got in the threads or a small hunk of dirt. either way go get a can of pb blaster. and a propane torch or ox/ac pull the plug wire. blow any loose crud out from the plug pocket. now use the torch to heat up the plug base and the head around it. get it as hot as possible. now remove the flame and spray the pb on the plug base it will smoke and might ignite just blow it out let it set a while. then repeat and then use your wrench on the plug. it should back out ok. before you install the new plug run a spark plug thread chaser into the hole to clean out the threads. advanceauto-zone napa and others have them in the help or tool areas put a dollop of grease on the tool to catch anything that it dredges up. abby.normal wrote you may want to try squirting some wd-40 on the exposed threads of that plug there isnt much room but there may be enough to get some into the threading area; let it sit for an hour or so to penetrate some; then try to ease it back in to the head just a little - 1/4 to 1/2 turn or so. squirt more wd-40 on it; wait an hour or so; then try easing it out some - 1/2 to 1 full turn. repeat that back in and out process until you get it out. if you get it out without messing the threads up then get a thread restoring tool and try to screw that in to the head and see if it helps. you may want to turn the crank to get that piston to tdc before you start to help keep the crap from going too far down into the calendar. if you can vacuum or blow out the crap after you get that plug out it will help. any other suggestions from others on how to get that plug out without breaking anything ive never had that problem before but have heard of others having it though. i am way over due. the only tune up ive done in the past 10-15 years was on my 55 chevy during its restoration. i put a new set of plugs in my 98 dakota when i replaced the water pump at 90k miles but didnt have to. the existing plugs looked good and they were the original ones. 1997 dakota 3.9l w/ 170k miles. sorry in advance; for me to explain this thoroughly will require a lengthy post. two years ago i did my 150k mile and most recent complete tuneup and when i went to remove spark plug #5 at that time it just about wouldnt budge. i dont recall having any such spark plug problems before... but for some reason at 150k miles that #5 was a bear to remove. i did get it out and to my surprise the threads on the plug looked ok w/ no extra metal or chewed threads. then when i went to put the new plug in with anti-seize it wouldnt finger tighten past about 1 or 2 revolutions. i carefully tightened it the rest of the way with a socket and it was rough going but i got it tightened and never had anymore problems with it... until now. over the past few days ive noticed a definite misfire under acceleration but it isnt constant... it comes and goes. well today i pulled a p0305 #5 misfire code. i put new wires on and it made no difference. i inspected inside the distributor cap and everything looks uniform ie #5 doesnt look any different than the others. so i hesitantly tried to remove plug #5 and just like last time its really hard to turn. i backed it out about 1 revolution and then chickened out - it wasnt getting easier it actually started getting harder to turn. i am fairly but cannot be completely sure that i never cross- threaded it - i always finger tighten the plugs. im perplexed because the plug threads looked ok after i fought to get it out last time. ive come up with 4 potential explanations for this new misfire 1 some plug holes just become stubborn and maybe i inadvertantly damaged the plugs insulator while trying to get that new #5 installed last time and maybe its now starting to bleed voltage in a short circuit on occasion. this is my best case scenario. 2 maybe the threads did get damaged or crossed despite my finger tightening rule and despite the threads looking ok last time i had the plug out after fighting with it. rust or crud could have hitched a ride into the threads 2 tuneups ago and welded the plug in place. the idea here is that its losing compression or something due to screwed up threads. can damaged threads do that maybe time for a helicoil 3 could be coincedental. maybe injector #5 is clogged or bad. 4 could be much worse... worn or damaged valve or seat blown head gasket cracked head etc. so i suppose my question to you all is does it sound like the stuck #5 plug could be related to my new #5 misfire which if any of my 4 explanations sounds most valid any suggestions im scared stiff at the thought of trying to remove that plug right now. thank you... dakota2112 -- steve w. near cooperstown new york nra member pacifism - the theory that if theyd fed jeffrey dahmer enough human flesh hed have become a vegan. ----== posted via feeds.com - unlimit
From : nosey
i got a 94... i wish i knew which ones were wrong. you can review the answers and it shows you which were incorrect. i missed one but ive got an argument. it was the one that asked which would take the least force lifting the weight with no pulleys with one pulley at a 90 angle or with two pulleys one at a 90 pull the other with the rope hitting it on a tangent. i answered the one with no pulleys because of the added drag the pulleys would introduce. technically im right - but they wanted the answer theyre all the same. hmph.... the one i want to argue is the electrical circuit with battery switch and two bulbs in parallel. i answered it as series-parallel as the switch is in series but i was wrong. deny .