Cummins 12V 200k plus
From : midlant
Q: anyone else have an older 12v with over 200k on it john .
Replies:
From : midlant
ps is there a sock filter on the lines in the tank or a screen that would need cleaning when i dropped my tank last time i didnt monkey with anything but shortly thereafter my fuel gauge became erratic. either ive got a loose connection or the sending unit went bad. john .
From : ben turner
midlant wrote anyone else have an older 12v with over 200k on it john there was one in denver with over 400k. the engines are tough as nails if you maintain them. .
From : 617211
ive got about 250k on mine. loss of power for me meant dirty fuel/filter first & then look at transfer pump. ive replaced tranfer pump twice - i get about 100k out of one & then replace it as a preventative measure. .
From : midlant
ps have you pulled your injectors for cleaning or replacement john ive got about 250k on mine. loss of power for me meant dirty fuel/filter first & then look at transfer pump. ive replaced tranfer pump twice - i get about 100k out of one & then replace it as a preventative measure. .
From : midlant
thanks but wsa hoping to talk to someone on here about their experience with it. ive lost power somewhere. was curious if they had replaced the injectors at any point or the lift pump. i know on certain years the lift pumps are a serious problem. i think on the 12vs they are pretty reliable and durable. john .
From : roy
thanks but wsa hoping to talk to someone on here about their experience with it. ive lost power somewhere. was curious if they had replaced the injectors at any point or the lift pump. i know on certain years the lift pumps are a serious problem. i think on the 12vs they are pretty reliable and durable. john check the hoses at the inter cooler and turbo. they can loosen or perhaps you have a tear in one. you might be better served at the tdr. .
From : midlant
thank you. thanks but wsa hoping to talk to someone on here about their experience with it. ive lost power somewhere. was curious if they had replaced the injectors at any point or the lift pump. i know on certain years the lift pumps are a serious problem. i think on the 12vs they are pretty reliable and durable. john check the hoses at the inter cooler and turbo. they can loosen or perhaps you have a tear in one. you might be better served at the tdr. .
From : midlant
i replace the filter yearly. i may drive 8k a year. im a bike person. ftw. 4 wheels are good for hauling or towing. i can get the lift pump if thats what youre talking about on ebay for $130 i think. i bought a nice water pump on there but havent had a need to replace it yet. curious. is there a need to drop the tank and clean a sock filter if it has one i should have done that when i dropped the tank 5 years ago to repair a brake line. wasnt sure how to get the cap off. it didnt look like it screwed and my factory service manual didnt say anything that i remember. was the transfer pump a bear to replace id think getting to it is the hard part unless you can get it on a lift and try from underneath. john ive got about 250k on mine. loss of power for me meant dirty fuel/filter first & then look at transfer pump. ive replaced tranfer pump twice - i get about 100k out of one & then replace it as a preventative measure. .
From : tom lawrence
repair a brake line. wasnt sure how to get the cap off. it didnt look like it screwed and my factory service manual didnt say anything that i remember. its a locking ring on the fuel module. youre supposed to use a special spanner wrench but you can just use a screwdriver and a mallet and tap the ring counter-clockwise to remove it. make a reference mark on both the ring and the tank so you can get it back to the same position which will result in approximately the same torque. .
From : roy
repair a brake line. wasnt sure how to get the cap off. it didnt look like it screwed and my factory service manual didnt say anything that i remember. its a locking ring on the fuel module. youre supposed to use a special spanner wrench but you can just use a screwdriver and a mallet and tap the ring counter-clockwise to remove it. make a reference mark on both the ring and the tank so you can get it back to the same position which will result in approximately the same torque. the o ring is probably junk when you pull it out of the tank. they are about a buck at the dealer might want to get one just in case. .
From : midlant
tom youre the best. john repair a brake line. wasnt sure how to get the cap off. it didnt look like it screwed and my factory service manual didnt say anything that i remember. its a locking ring on the fuel module. youre supposed to use a special spanner wrench but you can just use a screwdriver and a mallet and tap the ring counter-clockwise to remove it. make a reference mark on both the ring and the tank so you can get it back to the same position which will result in approximately the same torque. .
From : midlant
ok. good point. thanks! repair a brake line. wasnt sure how to get the cap off. it didnt look like it screwed and my factory service manual didnt say anything that i remember. its a locking ring on the fuel module. youre supposed to use a special spanner wrench but you can just use a screwdriver and a mallet and tap the ring counter-clockwise to remove it. make a reference mark on both the ring and the tank so you can get it back to the same position which will result in approximately the same torque. the o ring is probably junk when you pull it out of the tank. they are about a buck at the dealer might want to get one just in case. .
From : tom lawrence
the o ring is probably junk when you pull it out of the tank. they are about a buck at the dealer might want to get one just in case. good point. that whole setup is needlessly complex to me a compromise to use the same tank in both gas and diesel applications... if i were going to have my tank out id get rid of that whole thing probably cut a piece of diesel-compatible plastic to sit under the ring as a filler plate and just replace it with a couple of bulkhead fittings and a dip tube similar to what dpp sells with their fass kits. id then cut the hard lines back a bit and graft on some flexible fuel lines - making it much easier later on to lower the tank disconnect the supply and return lines at the bulkheads id use an fittings - so much more reliable than those stock pos push-lock connections and out with the tank. id not advocating that midlant do this... but i may have just talked myself into it .
From : midlant
lol nooooooo! i dont want to modify anything else at the moment. bikes are finally pretty much where i want them compared to all the others ones in my past. need to update or repair a boat trailer that has the keel rollers welded to the trailer and theyre rotted boat needs work and still havent gotten to the front brakes yet. this just after spending two weeks at my parents doing all their home repair and maintenance. noooooooo! no modifying anything. noooooooo remember the pink panther with peter sellers at the end of one of the movies whit his nose blown off he was in a i love me jacket writing with a crayon between his toes on the padded walls. thats about where im at with maintenance of any sort. im toast! im burnt! blurrrrrrrrrbbbbbbbbbbbfinger bouncing lips the o ring is probably junk when you pull it out of the tank. they are about a buck at the dealer might want to get one just in case. good point. that whole setup is needlessly complex to me a compromise to use the same tank in both gas and diesel applications... if i were going to have my tank out id get rid of that whole thing probably cut a piece of diesel-compatible plastic to sit under the ring as a filler plate and just replace it with a couple of bulkhead fittings and a dip tube similar to what dpp sells with their fass kits. id then cut the hard lines back a bit and graft on some flexible fuel lines - making it much easier later on to lower the tank disconnect the supply and return lines at the bulkheads id use an fittings - so much more reliable than those stock pos push-lock connections and out with the tank. id not advocating that midlant do this... but i may have just talked myself into it .
From : nosey
tom lawrence wrote the o ring is probably junk when you pull it out of the tank. they are about a buck at the dealer might want to get one just in case. good point. that whole setup is needlessly complex to me a compromise to use the same tank in both gas and diesel applications... if i were going to have my tank out id get rid of that whole thing probably cut a piece of diesel-compatible plastic to sit under the ring as a filler plate and just replace it with a couple of bulkhead fittings and a dip tube similar to what dpp sells with their fass kits. id then cut the hard lines back a bit and graft on some flexible fuel lines - making it much easier later on to lower the tank disconnect the supply and return lines at the bulkheads id use an fittings - so much more reliable than those stock pos push-lock connections and out with the tank. id not advocating that midlant do this... but i may have just talked myself into it you might have talked me into it too. what about the fuel level sending unit the one on my 99 is attached on the module. the fuel pickup portion of the bottom of the module is also spring loaded to compensate for the tank flexing. will a dip-tube be any problem my fuel module http//i14.tinypic.com/5yvxmwg.jpg hdpe high density polyethylene plastic is diesel compatable. stop at an automatic car wash and ask the attendant if they have any plastic soap barrels they want to get rid of. most of them use 15 30 and 55 gallon barrels and are happy to give away the empty ones. they are very easy to cut with a sabre saw. the flat bottom of these barrels would be just about the right thickness to make a filler plate. hdpe is also fairly easy to form if you get it to the right temperature. an electric skillet works great to warm up small pieces to forming temperature. in a pinch your wifes laundry iron might work too. soldering irons work well for cleaning up rough cut edges and making small or irregular shaped holes. see http//www.yemmhart.com/materials/origins/fabrication.htm for more hdpe working details. -- ken .
From : tom lawrence
you might have talked me into it too. what about the fuel level sending unit the one on my 99 is attached on the module. awww.... crap. forgot about that. okay fine - i guess it stays. flexing. will a dip-tube be any problem take a look at the installation instructions for the fass over at http//www.dieselpp.com they use a dip tube now - doesnt seem like its a problem. .
From : roy
ps is there a sock filter on the lines in the tank or a screen that would need cleaning when i dropped my tank last time i didnt monkey with anything but shortly thereafter my fuel gauge became erratic. either ive got a loose connection or the sending unit went bad. john iirc there is a module that can go south. they use to be about $40 from dc. you might want to pick one up along with the o ring. .
From : rick505
there are some dodge diesel trucks with a million miles on them my brother seen one with 750 thousand miles the guy said that he never hade any major engine work done on it except a turbo/ water pump/ starter/ batteries/ belts .
From : midlant
thanks roy. ps is there a sock filter on the lines in the tank or a screen that would need cleaning when i dropped my tank last time i didnt monkey with anything but shortly thereafter my fuel gauge became erratic. either ive got a loose connection or the sending unit went bad. john iirc there is a module that can go south. they use to be about $40 from dc. you might want to pick one up along with the o ring. .
From : nosey
tom lawrence wrote you might have talked me into it too. what about the fuel level sending unit the one on my 99 is attached on the module. awww.... crap. forgot about that. okay fine - i guess it stays. flexing. will a dip-tube be any problem take a look at the installation instructions for the fass over at http//www.dieselpp.com they use a dip tube now - doesnt seem like its a problem. i see. thanks. -- ken .