Cold Weather Starting & Water in Fuel Indicator
From : davidj01
Q: craig that is where it is. it is just below the head on the block just behind the air filter cannister. it is a knurled cap that you must unscrew. run the cable forward along the frame to the front bumper. use tiewraps to hold it in place. steve hi apologies in advance if this has been asked. i did a search and didnt find any reference to it. i have a 2004 ram cummins. i ordered the cable that is needed to make the block heater work that comes on all 2004 model engines. i also ordered the service manual but it will not arrive for a few weeks. how do i go about installing the cable #251919 the cummins folks told me to look behind the oil filter on the passenger side. any help is appreciated. craig c. .
Replies:
From : jrod
test .
From : jigger
transmission suddenly started to make whining or howling noise. its a 97 dakota 4x4 about 90k miles automatic and the noise changes pitch in sync with the speed of the truck. meaning a very light noise when at a stop while in drive and once i take off and pick up speed the noise increases bases on the speed i am traveling with the pitch getting high the higher the speed. i brake to come to a stop and the noise whines down in sync with the speed of the truck slowing down. the noise is very noticeable and loud. the faster i go the higher the pitch. transmission oil and filters have been changes as recommended and last done about 5000 miles ago. the oil level is good of course and smells normal no burnt smells or anything like that and has good color. the tsb below deals with a whining/buzzing noise in reverse but the same noise is known to occur in the forward gears http//dodgeram.info/tsb/1999/21-08-99.htm .
From : davidj01
hi group! i bought a 92 dakota at auction that had been donated to charity. the guy that donated the dakota says it has a 2001 318 with only 15 k on it is there any way by engine serial number or any other way to determine the year model of this 318 engine. look on the front of the block on the drivers side just below the head for a series of stamped characters. the first character is the last digit of the model year 2nd character is a letter for the assembly plant next is the displacement possibly followed by a t for truck and then a series of digits. the first four digits are the build date based on a 10000 day calendar. also on the side of the block there will be a series of raised digits which will include the block casting number and the casting date. .
From : clinesequipment
i thought the whole idea of phone sex was that youre supposed to like understand what shes saying .
From : tom lawrence
iman nassoul wrote i just got a letter from dc saying that my 2wd durango is covered for an extended time should the upper ball joints fail. 10 years 100000 miles for all 2000-2002 and 2003s built through 12/31/02. thats great considering i already had one fail at 15000 miles. the letter i got gave an address to send a copy of the invoice. it says you will be compensated for the repair. i had to replace a ball joint on my 02 dodge dakota lemon. i will be sending in a copy of the invoice for that. jam .
From : theguy
heater blower only works on high does this vehicle have a resistor block if so where is it located thank you ed .
From : tbone
i was wondering if the original poster was the spammer selling the part once again you dont specify gallon tank mr parts manager why not i would hate to drop a tank to find out the part is wrong because someone didnt give all info out on what they were selling.. that part i believe was superseded because of a faulty regulator long crank time due to fuel draining back to the tank i would not buy it!!!!! check your dealer connect then post all info correctly mr parts manager no where does it say here or e bay that this pump will not fit a 22 gallon tank mr parts manager ed & sherri wrote if you look back in the supersedence the original p/n is 4897667aa. this part fits a 1998 dodge ram with a 35 gallon tank. i am a chrysler parts manager and i do know what i am doing when i go and sell my items. hay! ed tell me why did they start calling the fuel pump on the diesel engine a lift pump. bill p. .
From : clinesequipment
1p89u0dkgo510hgt46h2i1pq58lvoieqte@4ax.com theguy theguy@myplace.com wrote on wed 12 jan 2005 030811 gmt tbone t-bonenospam@nc.rr.com wrote do you have a wood stove all that wood could be free heat. roy nope. when the family room gets remodeled hopefully next year there will be a gas fireplace installed. you may want to rethink the gas fireplace unless it is for asthetics only. as i understand it they are super inefficient for heat. try a pellet stove ive had them in both houses and the are fantastic. there you would be wrong. really depends upon your perception i guess. i have several friends that went to gas fireplaces. they are either extremely inefficient or gas is extremely expensive. the cost for them to heat their homes with their gas fireplaces compared to my wood stove is not even close. they all have quit using them for the winter they just cost too much. my brother has a pellet stove and it is super. very cheap to use and heats the house nicely. not wanting to piggy back on dales post but i didnt see this until i read his reply. i think that we are talking about two different things. i agree with you that attempting to heat your home with a gas fireplace is not going to be cost effective and i never suggested that it was and if you think im saying then we are talking about two different things. what i said or intended to say was that using a gas fire place for supplemental heat or in an emergency like a power failure is not wasteful and inefficient as some have suggested. they are very efficient at what they are intended for but if you attempt to heat your whole house with it you would be better off using your furnace. those pellet stoves look like a good idea but i cant find any place to put one here. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : nosey
on wed 12 jan 2005 170048 -0600 iman nassoul rectal@orifice.org wrote i just got a letter from dc saying that my 2wd durango is covered for an extended time should the upper ball joints fail. 10 years 100000 miles for all 2000-2002 and 2003s built through 12/31/02. thats great considering i already had one fail at 15000 miles. is that just for you because you already had such a failure or do we think this covers all durangos listed above i just had my 2003 in the dealership on tuesday... for the d22 windshield wiper recall campaign. and i specifically asked about the ball joint situation. service advisor there told me it was only for 4wd... ran my vin thru his puter and verified it for me. shrug according to the letter it is good for all vehicles listed above. mine doesnt show up as recalled either. its a warranty extension. .
From : jrod
t-bonenospam@nc.rr.com wrote was it covered under warranty when it failed yes. .
From : tom lawrence
i just picked up my 05 ram 1500 4x4 quad cab before christmas. love the truck as well as both of my previous ones but unfortunately for me its an automatic. my two previous rams were a 99 5.2l and an 02 4.7l both manual transmissions. i like the standard transmission and dont mind shifting at all. in order to get the hemi engine on this one i had to settle with the automatic boo hoo. either that or go to the 2500 which i dont need and dosent come with 20 wheels. i havent driven an automatic in many years and perhaps its just me but...ive noticed if im cruising around 70-80 k/hr 40-50 mph and then decide to punch the peddle about 3/4 down there seems to be as best as i can describe a kind of turbo lag sensation where theres no engine noise at all for about 1 second or so. seems to me as though its trying to figure what gear to go into or something. i find this irritating as im used to an immediate throttle response like my 2 previous rams had. i was concerned about this so i took it to the dealer. they told me this was normal and that the truck was still in its learning curve to my driving habits 900 kms on truck. can anyone advise if this is the norm for the newer automatics. i realize there is no throttle cable and everythings done electronically. thanks bjs .
From : tom lawrence
ouch! sounds expensive. we drove from imperial dam to quartzsite az today and the light is still on. do you remember how bad the bill was approximately. i think the nearest dealer is in yuma. thanks again doug i had a similar situation. same code. reset the gas cap and drove it. did not go off. went to the gas station remember when they were called service stations and filled the tank up. then it went off....for a week or two. came back on tried filling the tank again. did not go off. took it into the dealer and they replaced a pump and something else. dont have the paperwork readily handy or id be more specific. gary us wrote thanks! i just went out and checked the gas cap. i couldnt tell for sure but it might have been loose. ill take it out for a drive tomorrow and see what happens. thanks again doug im out in the california desert for the winter and just got a obdii code of p0441. the site says evaporative emission control system incorrect purge flow. is this something to sweat or is it just from all the rain we have been having. we were hooking up and moving our trailer to get water when it came on. any help will be greatly appreciated. doug .
From : jrod
ram 3500 single rear 4x4 w/deisel. this is new for me and i am not up to par yet with the maintenance. aside form checking the water separator any other tips i should be aware of nothing much different than a gas engine. however try not to get on the engine too hard ie. wide-open throttle runs until you start to see the water temperature gauge needle come off the peg. one of the worst things you can do to a diesel is run it hard when its cold. similarly after working it hard allow it some time to cool down idle before shutting it off. your owners manual talks about this - essentially you want to allow the turbo time to cool down so that the oil thats left in it doesnt burn up creating ash that will hurt the bearings on the next start-up. at your first oil change also change your fuel filter left-over junk in the tank from manufacturing will be caught by the filter. after that every other oil change is a pretty good rule of thumb for fuel-filter changes. of course the quality of the fuel you get could greatly affect that interval - either for the better of worse. if you notice your fuel economy starting to drop off thats a pretty good indication that youve gone too long between fuel filter changes. on the subject of filters - if youre going to do the oil changes yourself dont use anything but fleetguard oil and fuel filters in the truck. you can get them from the dealership at a greatly inflated cost from a local cummins shop from napa or online from http//www.genosgarage.com. as for oil make sure it meets the correct specs refer to your owners manual but several good brands are valvoline premium blue shell rotella-t mobil delvac 1300 or chevron delo 400 - all in 15w40 weight. .
From : mike simmons
jim hall wrote i replaced the batterys on my 97 turbo diesel last weekend. they were the original from-the-factory units so i expect after 170000 miles they were due for replacement. the truck wouldnt crank on a couple of cold mornings recently though although after i charged them up - everything seemed to work fine at least for another few weeks until the next time it wouldnt start. so the sears die-hard guy tells me i need an alternator replacement. he gives me this little printout of a test that indicates that the alternator has a bad waveform and needs replacement. his mechanic can do it later in the day with a napa alternator. i passed. from all indications i have the alternator is fine. the voltmeter fluctuates a but when cold - i presume due to the air heat grid - but after the engine warms it stays rock solid at slightly over 14 . just like it has always done. im inclined to think i dont have a problem. comments appreciated. tia. jim hall 520 exc 950 lc8 adventure turning money into noise... does the trace resemble this http//www.globalsecurity.org/military/agency/navy/hs-2.htm long tails or blanks indicate bad diodes or windings. there are three windings connected to six diodes. a fault in any winding or diode set will cost you 33.333% of your alternator output current. rick .
From : steve lusardi
its been getting cold here in kc so i plugged in the block keater last night. i went out to start up the truck this afternoon and two things caught my attention. the first was how quickly the wait to start indicator turned off it was only 3-4 seconds. in the past several weeks where its been cool mid-low 30s i havent used the block heater and the wait time was a lot longer upwards of 10+ seconds if i recall correctly. pretty impressive.... anyway in the manual it says it may be beneficial to cycle the manifold heaters by turning the ignition switch off after the wait light goes out then turning the key back on and starting the engine when the wait light goes out. this is for cold weather starts at or below 0. but with what i observed with todays start low 20 - high teen temp i wonder if theres a benefit to that also for the 1st time today i noticed that the water in fuel indicator came on very briefly. is this due to the cold weather and the engine heater being on how concerned should i be at the first time i see the indicator i would be somewhat surprised if i was needing to be drainig a fuel filter this soon after purchasing a new truck... thanks david... david the water in fuel light will illuminate briefly when the key is cycled on. this is merely a bulb check. if it stays on after the vehicle is started then you need to drain the fuel water separator. water in the fuel can occur anytime and is not dependent upon the age of the vehicle. as a matter of precaution it is not a bad idea to drain the fuel/water separator as part of regularly scheduled maintenance. i drain mine at each oil change interval of 7500 miles. more frequent draining general isnt necessary unless the wif indicator light comes on. hope this helps! mike .