Clicking in front, 2001 4x4
From : carolina watercraft works
Q: now 25 is not that great of vacuum and far less than someone on this group has been saying is required. you pulled 25hg. thats not the same thing as 500 microns. i would probably be bringing the new compressor back for a refund it is only held a vacuum for 5 minutes. youre reading it wrong. it means to wait at least 5 minutes to make sure it holds the vacuum. if it will hold vacuum for 5 minutes it will hold vacuum indefinately. -- nathan w. collier http//inlinediesel.com http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com http//bighornrefrigeration.com .
Replies:
From : roy
thanks nosey...that exactly what it was. i had replaced the shocks with bilstein shocks a while back and torqued everything to spec as instructed. this time i said f-it and with the help of my trusty impact wrench click/rattle is gone. thanks to all the other hints too. i checked the u-joints out when i had it apart and they did look ok but wasnt ruling those out as the culprit. thank god i didnt have to take those apart again. carolina watercraft works wrote 2001 ram 2500 qc 4x4 with 360. going over bumps and such everyday driving i get a clicking/rattle from the front end. consistent even when braking and turning. just completed replacing the balljoints bearings and brakes on the front and expected the clicking to be gone upon completion...wrong. already replaced the anti-rattle clips on the brakes and that was not it. any ideas on what to look at as the possible cause could the tracbar be causing this check the lower bolts on the front shocks. they have to be very tight or they will rattle. .
From : Annonymous
on 17 aug 2005 233859 edt ron wa0kds@yahoo.com wrote micron is really almost a useless measurement to almost anyone that is reading this group. it cannot be measured with the equipment available to the service or home repair person. vacuum pumps are no any self respecting residential service tech has a micron gauge. i dont have a clue how often theyre used in automotive ac but i suspect not often. specified in volume/sec and inches of mercury. volume is not important to us because we are working in a closed system if we had a hole in one end and were trying to keep a vacuum inside then volume per minutes would be very important now i sure hope everyone knows that you must have your ac system closed before you start drawing your vacuum. so now all we need to do is determine what the min vacuum we need to pull and from what i understand now about this subject almost anything that will draw a vacuum will work just fine on our ac systems if it can acheive a certain inches of mercury. so now lets get off this micron issue and on to something that we all can measure. if a manufacture of a specific vacuum pump states it can draw 50 micron then at what inches of mercury are they talking because then any vacuum pump that can achieve that pull will do that same thing volume again is not important. a micron is 0.001mm. there are about 25400 microns to an inch. a gauge set simply doesnt have the resolution to measure a 500 micron vacuum. btw a perfect vacuum would be 0 microns. 500 microns is 0.5mm. .
From : nosey
carolina watercraft works wrote 2001 ram 2500 qc 4x4 with 360. going over bumps and such everyday driving i get a clicking/rattle from the front end. consistent even when braking and turning. just completed replacing the balljoints bearings and brakes on the front and expected the clicking to be gone upon completion...wrong. already replaced the anti-rattle clips on the brakes and that was not it. any ideas on what to look at as the possible cause could the tracbar be causing this when i had the clicking noise from the front end it ended up being the u joint. .
From : carolina watercraft works
tom lawrence wrote will someone please answer the question that was asked a couple posts ago what does 500 microns equal in inches of mercury i thought i did... 29.903 ok got that one answered now i would like to see a temperature chart of the center register discharge temperature versus vacuum drawn on your typical fixed orifice tube auto ac system. from no vacuum pulled in five degree steps to 29.903 which is almost a perfect vacuum. i personally believe that what you will see is a straight line or two straight lines with anything between these two temps being ok and that vacuum is not related to the temperature output on your typical auto ac at all. the size and condition of the system the fixed orifice tube and the amount of oil in the system will set the output temp. please prove me wrong on this because if a super vacuum will get my ac 20 degrees cooler here in phx az i am for it. i did see yesterday that there is a new fixed orifice tube that is really not fixed but variable that is claiming 12 degree better cooling at idle of course i found this after i filled the system with a new charge. if i had a recovery tank i would be installing one of these. the purpose of drawing a vacuum is to get the moisture out of a system that will cause corrosion and i real believe that is all. right or wrong i need hard facts or a website that explains this in detail if a vacuum will really drastically improve cooling. thanks ron .