Chanaging brakes
From : bill w
Q: if what you are saying is that it is too complicated or involved for the do-it-yourselfer i respect that i guess. if youre serious about learning more for possibly a career i recommend strongly that you begin to consider a tech course. refrigeration/hvac is what i do for a living http//bighornrefrigeration.com and its been very good to me in addition to welding. i cannot stress enough the importance of learning right before you pick up any bad habits. i was initially self-taught and although i could get by for the most part i was a bumbling idiot until i got some formal training. so now you are no longer bumbling gbfg it was just laying there so i just had to. roy .
Replies:
From : bill w
hey nate where do you get your vacuum pump oil i buy it in bulk at johnstones here in billings. i buy in bulk because i change the oil in my vacuum pump after every usage as recommended by my vacuum pump manufacturer. this is why i attach a $5 vacuum pump charge each time i use it although most companies charge 15. why -- nathan w. collier http//inlinediesel.com http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com http//bighornrefrigeration.com .
From : bill w
i have a 92 ram 250 diesel. this morning it died after running about 15 minutes. it would not crank but everything else worked. i towed it back home and did a little poking around. all the fuses are ok. the alarm system is ok. although it does trip after a while but i can reset it. i then unplugged the starter solenoid plug and shorted it. the starter works. then i went looking for fusable links. i found one open. it is orange and is 1 of 5 that comes out of a large wire that directly hooks to the battery. the link that is burned hooks to a wire that also has a white fusable link hooked to the same place. i stripped back the insulation on the burned link and twisted the ends together. as soon as i turned the ignition switch to the on position the link burned open very quickly. i do not have the shop manual or a wiring diagram and google didnt help with the diagram for my truck. im way out in the sticks so it will take several days to order one. in the mean time before i start opening wire bundles and tracing the wire hopefully some one here can help me. since there is a fusable link im assuming that this is most likely a documented problem. thanks in advance lee .
From : tom lawrence
hey nate where do you get your vacuum pump oil -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving as far as a vacuum pump. i use an old refrigerator compressor. you will never under the best of circumstances achieve anywhere near not even close to the 500 micron target with a refrigerator compressor. you might think it works great for you and thats fine and well but dont mislead others into thinking your way works because it doesnt. it might enable you to get cool air from your vents but its not as cool as it would be if it were done right.....and your components wont last as long as they should. you arent pulling a deep enough vacuum to evacuate all moisture and non-condensables. sure it might get you by and im not busting your chops on this. i just dont want others to think this is an accepable alternative. -- nathan w. collier http//inlinediesel.com http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com http//bighornrefrigeration.com .
From : bill w
a $1000 you got to be kidding. be resourceful and it will not even cost $100. yes if you are going ot follow the law then buy the recovery system but i find that most a/c is discharged anyway when it needs work and if you have to discharge a little of what is left then just close your eyes and do it. been doing this for years. my recovery system is a tub of ice and a freon cylinder. yes its slow. yes it does not remove every bit of freon. but it does get all the liquid so youre not releasing much. as far as a vacuum pump. i use an old refrigerator compressor. they way you get the moisture out is you pull a vacuum. wait to see if it leaks. might have to do this a few times as freon hides in the oil and takes a while to come out. then you add a bit of nitrogen about 3 psi. wait a while and pull vacuum again. the nitrogen will get the moisture out. while youre pulling vacuum the last time heat the receiver/dryer with a hair dryer. before you ask we have race cars that we use nitrogen to control the throttle so we always have it. but its not hard to get and if the system has not been exposed to air a long time you can skip using it. al .
From : tbone
dc does have an obligation to its customers if it intends on keeping them. the days of complete blind brand loyalty has for the most part come to and end. while it may still seem to exist in a limited way in here in reality many will and are doing what dale is considering iow screw me once shame on you screw me twice shame on me. yes they sell dc products and represent dc for warranty purposes but the work they do for profit is their work and theirs alone. i do not agree not when it comes to them making modifications on the vehicles that they are authorized by the manufacturer to perform service and warranty work on. you may not agree but facts is facts! you are correct here mike and the facts is that if the manufacturer is unwilling to help a customer resolve a problem with one of its representatives then it no longer deserves that customers business. tbone you have said that very well. damn should hire you as my lawyer and take dodge city to small claims court. lol thanks dale. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : tom lawrence
on tue 26 jul 2005 182956 -0400 julio nospamhere@home.net wrote hey all ! i replaced my condensor about a month ago and recharged the system w/a freon and oil combo set with the single gauge setup. all was fine and cold enough then 2 days ago i fired up the truck and the unit was not blowing cold air just cool so i grabbed the single gauge and tested the low side and it read the same as after i initially refilled system. the clutch kicks in intermittently for about 4 seconds and shuts off for about 4 seconds quite consistently. seems like the low on freon symptom. i tried to put a little more freon in but noticed that it didnt seem to help the on then off syndrome. i did not overfill at this point the gauge still being in the blue. is there a solenoid or switch to check or replace for this condition it is hot as hell out here. i dont want to get ripped off by some shop as i was hoping to remedy this and sell this great little truck with 200k miles for a new yellow hemi slt while the incentives are on. any suggestions thanks julio well after some thought really very little - i bought the yellow slt hemi ram. its even got a little stinger on the side then i bought some protection for the bed then some seat covers and took the wife to western north carolina for a look at some terrific mountain homesites. lots of beautiful acreage for reasonable prices. the drive was great avg. about 15.5 to 16 mpg. at about 80 - 85 mph..with fords in the way. i think the 20 inch tires helped a little there. came home abour 5 days later to hotter than hell se fla. i then took the dakota to an a/c shop and general repair place a couple of miles away the mechanic was playin with his 4 wheeler cycle and i asked him for some help. well the system was low with no leaks that he could find for about 20 min. worth of labor. he filled the system it ran cold so far so good. he said to monitor it hell do a dye test if it gets low again. for 20 bucks i couldnt go wrong. dakotas for sale for 5k. - it runs like a top it was just a little too small inside. the dealer wouldnt give crap for a trade-in so i kept it. thanks for the help all moral of the story is to try and trust some mechanics to give you a fair shake and youll really piss offf a lot of ford f150 drivers with a hemi.........hahahaha....... julio .
From : bill w
if the shoes are holding it it will move a little but will spring back. if it is solid and you can turn it then it is rusted in place as tom said. when i did mine i used one of my large pullers to help get them free but in hind sight penetrating oil probably would have helped. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving way it seems to turn and spring back. i wonder if anyone has any tips or tricks for removing the rear brake drums. any help will be greatly appreciated. push the adjuster lever away from the star wheel with a screwdriver push it towards the outside of the wheel. then lever the star wheel down - this will retract it. if the drum moves a little bit then gets hung up then yes youre getting stuck on the shoes. if it wont move at all it may be rusted around the hub. spray around the hub with some penetrating oil to help loosen it. thanks for the response. i was not sure which way to turn the star adjuster. i even have the service manual which only states 3 remove the brake drum not saying how. i initially started turning the adjuster inwards and did so quite easily for a while and then it stopped turned due to resistance. i assumed that i was tightening the adjuster at this point. when trying to turn the adjuster in the opposite direction towards the outside it was difficult turning the wheel. i had the impression that there might be a ratcheting lever or lock that kept the adjuster wheel from untightening. however there is no reference to such a thing in the manual. when trying to remove the drum it will not budge at all. i tried hitting it a few times hoping the impact would free the drum up if it was frozen. that did not work. i will go out now and spray it real good with penetrating oil and give it another shot sunday this time being sure i turn the adjuster to the outside. thanks bill .
From : tom lawrence
thank you all very much for the comments!!! you have all been very helpful to me. i think transurgeon sees what im afraid of with the low funds comment. according to the mechanic i have a leak and it must be in the evaporator because he looked everywhere else. it could be true. it is just a very expensive repair and i would like to feel very secure that i am replacing the right part. i appreciate the section where people debated about the cost of the tools. i just measured the low side pressure with the ac system running and it was doing the following the compressor would click on and the reading would drop down to about 20 then it would click off and the pressure would rise back up to about 45. the compressor is clicking on and off every five seconds or so. is this how the guy knows i have a leak again i really appreciate the help in learning about this. .
From : christopher thompson
yea it sounds like your new truck went for a swim before you bought it. the actual seats were probably replaces due to water damage along with the carpet. you might want to lift the carpet and look for damage on the floor boards as well. weeeelllll.... that settles it then.... if t-bone sez it went for a swim then by god that must be what happened..... even though there is no other evidence to that fact there can be no other alternative since t-bone said its so! face it gary you are screwed! lmfao!!! is it both seats or only one if its only one then percentages come into play here and we all know about the boner and the % sign............... .
From : mwarren
kevin cowie wrote hello all i want to see some pics of the 2006 ram3500 dual rear wheel and cant locate anyone have an idea kev there are pics of the 2006 drw rams on kbb.com. .