Carburetor EGR port question -- PASSED SMOG TEST

From : simpson

Q: snip overall cost of ownership the gas burner is cheaper for the first quarter million miles. lets get real for a minute with cost.. your going to get 1/4 million miles out of a gas truck if so youll be replacing some serious components imo that you wont be in a cummins. i dont think that has been factored in as yet. i have a 97 4x4 1500 with a 360 that has 285000 miles on the odo. the only major component that has been replaced is the transmission at 215k. i believe that i killed the tranny by towing a 28 ft camper and a dual axle trailer with my tractor on a regualar basis without locking out the overdrive. it is still a daily driver. i have a 91 dakota with 277000 miles on the odo and it has had no major service. oil changes and brakes are all its ever had. i have a 93 dakota with 225000 miles on the clock and it has had one clutch and nothing but normal service other than that. my dad has a 98 dakota with 330000 miles and nothing but brakes and oil changes. snip i just did some math. on our four gas burning trucks the average mileage at present is 279000 miles per truck. out of these four trucks the only major service has been one automatic transmission and one clutch. hmmm i guess gas burners really dont have any durability... ;- michael p.s. my 72 dodge dart has over 200k and i noticed it has finally developed a pretty bad oil leak. i wonder if i can get it classified as a lemon and make the moco fix it or give me a refund... any of you folks that can get a gas job to perform the same tasks as a cummins day in day out for !/4 million miles without some serious repairs id like to hear about. how about a 2500 or 3500 cummins and a gas job and then go hot shot it. give me a shout at 1/4 million miles and let me know what your expensess are. htf do you compare a dodge dart to a cumminsg . 222 343585 c61ad111-2689-4a58-92b9-19d3cc1fd9c0@q78g2000hsh.googlegroups.com on mar 24 200 pm ace1 a...@tech.com wrote i have a 97 ram 1500. my transmission slips between 45 to 55 mph is this going to be an exspensive repair job perhaps a low $ band adjustment could fix it guessing. if its not an expensive problem then it will quickly become one if you let it continue slipping. .

Replies:

From : simpson tinauxide

i dont really care that the guy is an idiot or that the motor is all but siezed up. rare stuff which this hemi is regardless of year or condition seems to be be priced on the high side of stupid and people will pay it. two or three years ago i purchased a shortblock 340 for $600 its going to need a bunch before its ever started again as well. its nowhere near as rare as the hemi. and while were at it what makes a dodge or plymouth worth a cool $1000000 at barrett jackson it sure as hell isnt the car especially when two years down the road the prices have dropped to half that. the seller in question may be a shyster but if he gets a buyer and a deal is struck then thats what the scrap iron is worth whether we like it or not. that is the truth. a buddy of mine has been doing a studebaker into some sort of street toy and has been looking for a 9 . called this morning and this guy has 2 one out of a late 50s and a newer one wants $350 a piece for them. i told him to buy both use the newer and sell the one from the 50s. right person needs one for a #s match restoration he will pay the price. .

From : carolina watercraft worksjim sjedgingn0sp

yup bad starter. no reason to jump the terminals. the drop in voltage was due to the load placed on it via the starter relay. the battery has rected normally. -- max everyone is entitled to his own opinion he is not entitled to his own facts. sen. daniel patrick moynihan of new york first put a battery charger on the battery for over night. get a load tester and check the battery for resilience after the load. or use a multimeter and watch voltage as you remove the charger. if its dropping then you have a problem. if not try to start the van. if the voltage drops below 10.5v and the starter turns suspect battery problems. if the voltage drops out and the starter does not turn replace the starter. this assumes the engine is not seized. i just went out and tried it because the charger has been on the battery for the past 5 hours. i tried both of what you mention. the volage at battery was about 13.5 volts with charger and really did not drop after charger was removed. i put meter on battery and tried to start. i went from 13.xx to about 12.88 at start position then back up to 12.98 after i turned the key to off position but still no starter movement or noise. solenoid is on starter. bad starter now should i still try to jump the starter terminals thanks for the input always load test the battery and check its voltage first when diagnosing an automotive electrical problem. this proves that your power source is good allowing you to find the problem rather than wonder how much voltage you lost in the bad circuit. settles in to await the inevitable horde of electrical engineers and wannabees that will contradict proper 12v neg ground troubleshooting -- max everyone is entitled to his own opinion he is not entitled to his own facts. sen. daniel patrick moynihan of new york friday started my vehicle but had problems. sounded like battery had charge problem but started anyway. saturday tried to start vehicle. turned over but battery died. later tried charging battery in evening with smart charger. before the charger the whole eletrical system would shut down but the check engine light would come on when the door was open. its a 94 ford aerostar - other groups are dying now i have the charger going on the battery it no longer does that. sunday battery dead again charge again. tried to start again. nothing. so i asked a neighbor to help me and try a jump start. still nothing coming from starter. so what i did was test the start relay and jumped the terminals. nothing again. not even a spark even though i did put a meter at the opposite terminal and grounded it to see if i got voltage when i turned to the key to the start position. i did try jumping the terminals at the starter this morning but got nothing because the batter was dead. i still need to try to jump at the starter again. so i am wondering bad battery or bad starter .

From : aarcuda69062

on mon 7 apr 2008 111648 -0400 nosey kfrei43@removethis.hotmail.com wrote mac davis wrote im starting to wonder if theres a way to just jam the doors or something to keep it on cool no matter what the dial/control is turned to bypass the heater core or put a manual shutoff valve on one of the heater hoses. damn ken thats a great idea! and something that i can do myself.. lol mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : Annonymousbeekeepjim sjedgingn0sp

havent done that ... have two though and one that i havent used ... tried it and no luck with that one either. will try and get a fob battery. fred hi all! have a problem with my 99 ctd quad cab. had it in storage over the winter and pulled the iod fuse. truck started up fine but now the keyless entry doesnt work. is there a tweek/trick/program reflash or something to get this back on line tia best to all! fred hey fred have you changed/checked the key fobs battery lately i get about 3 years out of my daily fob. fmb north mexico -- posted via a free usenet account from http//www.tera.com . 222 343696 q4jiv35qfhgpd861bvgo7mt3cpktep6b76@4ax.com on sun 06 apr 2008 152907 gmt aarcuda69062 nonelson@sbcglobal.net wrote mac davis macsplinters@davisbaja.com wrote it doesnt matter what its set on bro.. just seems to randomly change.. you can be going down the road with it set all the way to cold and it will blow warm air all of the sudden then go to cool.. almost constantly changing.. warm but not hot maybe the evaporator is freezing up. maybe but it does it even with the ac off.... we were in the states last week and just had it on vent no ac and it would be cool then pretty warm then cool again... mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : aarcuda69062

hi all! have a problem with my 99 ctd quad cab. had it in storage over the winter and pulled the iod fuse. truck started up fine but now the keyless entry doesnt work. is there a tweek/trick/program reflash or something to get this back on line youre going to have to take it to the dealer or someone with a drb iii to have it reprogrammed. .

From : noseyaarcuda69062

did you check for voltage at the starter main lug where the heavy cable connects i will do that in a little while. when i tried it yesterday the battery was dead and i got 0 voltage. if you got 0 volts measuring at the battery posts the battery is junk. you want to check for a draw when you replace the battery so you dont ruin the next one. it shows 12 volts today but not even a click with the starter. i guess i better take the battery down to a place to have it tested for draw -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving first put a battery charger on the battery for over night. get a load tester and check the battery for resilience after the load. or use a multimeter and watch voltage as you remove the charger. if its dropping then you have a problem. if not try to start the van. if the voltage drops below 10.5v and the starter turns suspect battery problems. if the voltage drops out and the starter does not turn replace the starter. this assumes the engine is not seized. i just went out and tried it because the charger has been on the battery for the past 5 hours. i tried both of what you mention. the volage at battery was about 13.5 volts with charger and really did not drop after charger was removed. i put meter on battery and tried to start. i went from 13.xx to about 12.88 at start position then back up to 12.98 after i turned the key to off position but still no starter movement or noise. solenoid is on starter. bad starter now should i still try to jump the starter terminals thanks for the input always load test the battery and check its voltage first when diagnosing an automotive electrical problem. this proves that your power source is good allowing you to find the problem rather than wonder how much voltage you lost in the bad circuit. settles in to await the inevitable horde of electrical engineers and wannabees that will contradict proper 12v neg ground troubleshooting -- max everyone is entitled to his own opinion he is not entitled to his own facts. sen. daniel patrick moynihan of new york friday started my vehicle but had problems. sounded like battery had charge problem but started anyway. saturday tried to start vehicle. turned over but battery died. later tried charging battery in evening with smart charger. before the charger the whole eletrical system would shut down but the check engine light would come on when the door was open. its a 94 ford aerostar - other groups are dying now i have the charger going on the battery it no longer does that. sunday battery dead again charge again. tried to start again. nothing. so i asked a neighbor to help me and try a jump start. still nothing coming from starter. so what i did was test the start relay and jumped the terminals. nothing again. not even a spark even though i did put a meter at the opposite terminal and grounded it to see if i got voltage when i turned to the key to the start position. i did try jumping the terminals at the starter this morning but got nothing because the batter was dead. i still need to try to jump at the starter again. so i am wondering bad battery or bad starter .

From : jim sjedgingn0sp

on sun 06 apr 2008 151919 -0700 mac davis wrote on sun 06 apr 2008 102715 -0400 peterd peter2@hipson.net wrote check all the vacuum hoses in the hvac unit. does it swtich to defrost from time to time too if so that may indicate low vacuum. not that i know of peter.. just from cool to warm... if you set it on vent floor both etc. it seems to stay there just changes temperature a lot.. mac please remove splinters before emailing get rid of the junk and drive the dodge........ ooooooooooooooooooooppppppppppppppppppppppppppssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss did i say that out loud gbmfg -- chris .

From : simpson tinauxide

i dont really care that the guy is an idiot or that the motor is all but siezed up. rare stuff which this hemi is regardless of year or condition seems to be be priced on the high side of stupid and people will pay it. two or three years ago i purchased a shortblock 340 for $600 its going to need a bunch before its ever started again as well. its nowhere near as rare as the hemi. and while were at it what makes a dodge or plymouth worth a cool $1000000 at barrett jackson it sure as hell isnt the car especially when two years down the road the prices have dropped to half that. the seller in question may be a shyster but if he gets a buyer and a deal is struck then thats what the scrap iron is worth whether we like it or not. that is the truth. a buddy of mine has been doing a studebaker into some sort of street toy and has been looking for a 9 . called this morning and this guy has 2 one out of a late 50s and a newer one wants $350 a piece for them. i told him to buy both use the newer and sell the one from the 50s. right person needs one for a #s match restoration he will pay the price. .

From : aarcuda69062

on sun 6 apr 2008 075939 -0400 roy roy@fhome.net wrote does this have automatic climate control or do you have manual settings denny id bet manual. reads like a door is free to flop back and forth. wouldnt think he needs heat there. were it me id be keeping the thing set for cool all the time. roy it doesnt matter what its set on bro.. just seems to randomly change.. you can be going down the road with it set all the way to cold and it will blow warm air all of the sudden then go to cool.. almost constantly changing.. mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : mikeaarcuda69062

on sun 6 apr 2008 070742 -0400 denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote does this have automatic climate control or do you have manual settings denny no its manual and a pretty standard kind of twist thing very much like the dodge controller.. mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : mike

on sun 6 apr 2008 075939 -0400 roy roy@fhome.net wrote asked this 2 or 3 times in the chevy 4x4 group with no replies so thought id try it here 95 small blazer 4 door v-6 auto 4x4... most available factory upgrades.. the heating/ac often decides the temperature settings for us... can go to cool to hot randomly or cold to hot if the ac is on... im thinking some kind of vacuum thing or something but have no real idea what it might be.. gotta get it fixed before summer or its going to lose its place as our daily driver.. suggestions besides getting a dodge we already have 2 does this have automatic climate control or do you have manual settings denny id bet manual. reads like a door is free to flop back and forth. wouldnt think he needs heat there. were it me id be keeping the thing set for cool all the time. roy id almost promise it is manual in that it is not computer controlled but uses vacuum to activate the various functions including the water valve and the blend door. in fact it is probably similar to the one used by chrysler! bg . 222 343685 senhv35cujn1aj297ikho5kldjjjd184at@4ax.com on sun 6 apr 2008 075939 -0400 roy roy@fhome.net wrote asked this 2 or 3 times in the chevy 4x4 group with no replies so thought id try it here 95 small blazer 4 door v-6 auto 4x4... most available factory upgrades.. the heating/ac often decides the temperature settings for us... can go to cool to hot randomly or cold to hot if the ac is on... im thinking some kind of vacuum thing or something but have no real idea what it might be.. gotta get it fixed before summer or its going to lose its place as our daily driver.. suggestions besides getting a dodge we already have 2 does this have automatic climate control or do you have manual settings denny id bet manual. reads like a door is free to flop back and forth. wouldnt think he needs heat there. were it me id be keeping the thing set for cool all the time. roy id almost promise it is manual in that it is not computer controlled but uses vacuum to activate the various functions including the water valve and the blend door. in fact it is probably similar to the one used by chrysler! bg .

From : jim sjedgingn0sp

on sun 30 mar 2008 165115 gmt memeitsonlyme@anon.com wrote this is the cutest web site ive ever seen. do you like their flavor seems a bit strong to me but to each his own... and no they do not taste just like chicken! .

From : aarcuda69062

snip any of you folks that can get a gas job to perform the same tasks as a cummins day in day out for !/4 million miles without some serious repairs id like to hear about. how about a 2500 or 3500 cummins and a gas job and then go hot shot it. give me a shout at 1/4 million miles and let me know what your expensess are. htf do you compare a dodge dart to a cumminsg i will agree that for super heavy duty service that my gas burners will not keep up with my cummins. but how many folks actually use their diesels for real work. 90% of the ones i see on the road are just like my wifes. nothing but oversized passenger vehicles. with the service i get out of my other trucks i expect hers to last near about forever. very true. but since the topic had morphed into an economy idea i was just pointing out that buying a diesel thinking that the extra fuel mileage was going to save you money is mostly a myth when you figure in *all* of the costs. like i said before if you are hauling a backhoe on a goose neck trailer every day or pulling a 36 fifth wheel camper full time the gas burner will not keep up. i was pointing out that the 1/4 million miles with like trucks one cummins and one gasyoud be ahead in the expense column with the cummins if both were worked. how do i compare the dart to the cummins just throwing in how many miles it has and it is still running. of course the oil leaks that are sprouting are due to low manifold vacuum. i am going to have to tear it down and rebuild it before long. of course i have just been waiting for an excuse to tear into the dart. i am going to build it into a screamer. here are a few photos of the little dart http//www.coolclimbing.com/dodgedartmine.htm i am going to put a mopar 390 hp/360 ci crate engine in it and i have a nos 727 auto to shoehorn into it. i also have a posi traction dana 60 to go under the rear. this should make the car a blast to drive. if any of yall need a good 727 auto i found five nos mopar units in the storage building of a local dodge dealer. i am going to keep two of them and sell the other three. i also have two 292 hemis and a 354 hemi to sell off. i thought about putting one of the hemis in the dart but the 360 crate engine is just too easy. michael the dart is nice. i think were it mine and i were younger id opt for the hemi keeping all the original stuff. you might be in good shape with the 727s if you can read the numbers and they are old enough so sombody that is doing a numbers matching can use one. e bay one and see how it goes. . 222 343589 3977220c-dbbb-4780-9b15-e793bc588835@m34g2000hsc.googlegroups.com i was looking on a schematic and they show a multifunction switch. =ef=bf= =bd is there a way this switch could fail and affect just one rear side what is the location of the switch thanks bill switch is in the steering wheel area. i believe you will have to remove the steering wheel. but first check the brake lights with the directional switch in the middle or off position to make sure both the brake lights do indeed work. this should eliminate the actual bulb and wiring. if the brake lights do work properly try the following. with the ignition off switch the directional lights to both directions and be sure the brake light goes off on the side you have switched the directional lights to. if you do remove the multifunction switch and replace it. buy two since you will eventually need another and it will be more expensive now then later. i have a 2001 dodge 1500 ram. bob az .

From : steve w

pick up the damn phone it is a toll free number!! a friggin month to locate a wheel for a dak wtf is up with that rh wrote nosey wrote rh wrote all i can find is this wheel is a 16x7does anyone have the offsetetc by chance so i can order a wheel.not 1 junkyard near me has a steel wheel but i want to ask them about a generic wheel as they have been searching for a dakota specific wheel. you seem to be wasting an awful lot of time and energy researching something thats sitting right in front of you. remove one of your wheels and measure it. it isnt hard. see https//www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html -- ken cant really measure the width of the wheel with a tire on it. i know its a 16 and it has 6 boltsthats about it. i was hoping someone knew the factory specs on the wheelsthese are factory wheelsnot aftermarket. sure you can close enough anyway... 1. remove tire & wheel from vehicle. 2. lay tire & wheel on flat surface. 3. using a stick of wood at least as long as the tire is in diameter and a measuring tape measure the section width of the tire. 4. using the stick of wood measure from one sidewall to the rim where the tire bead seats. 5. subtract 2x the second measurement from the first measurement. the result is the width of the rim + 2x the thickness of the edge of the rim. bryan i emailed tire racki hope to hear back from them soon . 222 343676 tprfv35u9nn0855k8nts2hvrejk2qfbftb@4ax.com on sat 5 apr 2008 151511 -0400 nosey kfrei43@removethis.hotmail.com wrote wingridernow@gmail.com wrote howdy all i am starting to notice rust on the very bottom of the door. first it was on the inside i sanded loose stuff off then applied two coats of por 15. that camoflaged it for awhile but now it is visable on the outside of the door. now this is the only door this is happening to all other doors are fine. i spoke with a coworker who had a 2005 ram 2500 and his did the same thing so what seems to give here they are not even close in age. might i be missing weep holes at the bottom of this door otherwise truck is in great shape for its age and has only 33k on the clock. it is also the turbo diesel. thanks bill the first signs of corrosion showed up on my 99 in the grill support area under the hood. you might want to look there before its too late. my doors have no rust. some years ago there was a recall because of door rusting on dodge trucks and chrysler replaced or repaired the doors for free. dont recall what years were affected however. .

From : steve w

pick up the damn phone it is a toll free number!! a friggin month to locate a wheel for a dak wtf is up with that rh wrote nosey wrote rh wrote all i can find is this wheel is a 16x7does anyone have the offsetetc by chance so i can order a wheel.not 1 junkyard near me has a steel wheel but i want to ask them about a generic wheel as they have been searching for a dakota specific wheel. you seem to be wasting an awful lot of time and energy researching something thats sitting right in front of you. remove one of your wheels and measure it. it isnt hard. see https//www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html -- ken cant really measure the width of the wheel with a tire on it. i know its a 16 and it has 6 boltsthats about it. i was hoping someone knew the factory specs on the wheelsthese are factory wheelsnot aftermarket. sure you can close enough anyway... 1. remove tire & wheel from vehicle. 2. lay tire & wheel on flat surface. 3. using a stick of wood at least as long as the tire is in diameter and a measuring tape measure the section width of the tire. 4. using the stick of wood measure from one sidewall to the rim where the tire bead seats. 5. subtract 2x the second measurement from the first measurement. the result is the width of the rim + 2x the thickness of the edge of the rim. bryan i emailed tire racki hope to hear back from them soon .

From : steve w

this guys name is charlie nudo. hes the same rat-bastard spammer that has been posting his same old sorry shit all around usenet for years. none of his crap is ever worth looking at. if by accident he ever got something that was actually valueable i hope he chokes on it. he also goes by trippin28track and 66fourdoor and about 10 other names as well. just do a google groups search for his latest user name or email address and youll see the hundreds of groups hes been smearing his shit around on. better yet search google for charlie nudo. pick any hit at random and have a good laugh. its only a coincidence he posted something dodge in this group. if he was selling gold bricks for a nickle each i wouldnt buy any from him. stay away from this guy. far far away. -- especially someone who cant get the year correct. her ehe has 55 and online he has 53 ken .

From : aarcuda69062

the brake and turn lights both are out on the left side and both work on the right side and both front turn signals work. i have a factory manual on cd but i havent found anything in it to show the physical locations of junctions etc. maybe im looking in the wrong places bill i was looking on a schematic and they show a multifunction switch. is there a way this switch could fail and affect just one rear side what is the location of the switch thanks bill switch is in the steering wheel area. i believe you will have to remove the steering wheel. but first check the brake lights with the directional switch in the middle or off position to make sure both the brake lights do indeed work. this should eliminate the actual bulb and wiring. if the brake lights do work properly try the following. with the ignition off switch the directional lights to both directions and be sure the brake light goes off on the side you have switched the directional lights to. if you do remove the multifunction switch and replace it. buy two since you will eventually need another and it will be more expensive now then later. i have a 2001 dodge 1500 ram. bob az .

From : simpson

mac rabbit you guys able to reach red if so please shoot me his addy. its been a long time since aol stopped carrying groups but heres the address he used to post with mopar440@aol.com its possible that since aol didnt allow munging of addresss that he may have blocked all mail to that account or white-listed it. . 222 343595 8avgj.184571$us.32605@fe04..easy.com mac rabbit you guys able to reach red if so please shoot me his addy. its been a long time since aol stopped carrying groups but heres the address he used to post with mopar440@aol.com its possible that since aol didnt allow munging of addresss that he may have blocked all mail to that account or white-listed it. .

From : simpson tinauxide

all i can find is this wheel is a 16x7does anyone have the offsetetc by chance so i can order a wheel.not 1 junkyard near me has a steel wheel but i want to ask them about a generic wheel as they have been searching for a dakota specific wheel. tire rack dosent have a wheel for it .

From : simpson tinauxide

mdtock wrote tbone wrote what year model engine type trans type 2000 ram 1500 4x4 5.9 automatic rebuild . when im backing up truck seems to hesitate like trying to die. but when driving it seems to run fine. what should i look for help yup that was helpful. let me look into my crystal ball. bob .

From : simpson

i have to get and swap a used motor into a 1995 4wd ram pickup. seems like i read that motors from 1993 to 1997 are same/compatible. my local used parts yard wants to sell me a 2001 motor and says theyre all the same. is this true will i have to do some cobbing to make it work does anyone have any tips or tricks to make this job go easily it would help if you mentioned the engine size all will interchange up to 01 with the usual caveats about the possibility of having to change induction electrics mounts etc. .

From : aarcuda69062

when im backing up truck seems to hesitate like trying to die. but when driving it seems to run fine. what should i look for help . 222 343643 5je2v3tdof2f013c0b41goh16euq4mecqo@4ax.com on mon 31 mar 2008 130949 -0500 key key@ya.net wrote on sun 30 mar 2008 225033 gmt memeitsonlyme@anon.com wrote bryan this is the schnauzer ... i told you about. yea he was good. barbied him on the grill this time. the last one didnt make good stew. grilling them is much better. bryan. why cross-post off-topic to groups that dont give a crap about your subject do try and get yourself a clue... this is cross-posted back only to find bryan no problem.. spring break is over and the kids will get off their moms computers and go back to school.. mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : mike romain

believe it or notnot 1 junk yard in my area has a steel rim to be used for a spare tire for my 01 dakota that someone stole the spare from.any idea where i can get one online i see aluminums for 80 bucksbut i just want an old steel wheel for the spare.its a 16 wheel for 2001 4 door dakota. .

From : mike romain

stories of speed no limit f1 world motorsports & automobiles easily translated to your language at http//all-of-f1.blogspot.com .

From : aarcuda69062

when i back up truck seems to hesitate like trying to die. but when driving truck seems to be fine. please help. .

From : aarcuda69062

the brake and turn lights both are out on the left side and both work on the right side and both front turn signals work. i have a factory manual on cd but i havent found anything in it to show the physical locations of junctions etc. maybe im looking in the wrong places bill ive had several problems with bulbs that are seemingly fine but caused the symtoms you describe nonetheless. replace both the front and rear bulbs with known good quality bulbs and i think your problem may be solved. .

From : aarcuda69062

the brake and turn lights both are out on the left side and both work on the right side and both front turn signals work. i have a factory manual on cd but i havent found anything in it to show the physical locations of junctions etc. maybe im looking in the wrong places bill i was looking on a schematic and they show a multifunction switch. is there a way this switch could fail and affect just one rear side what is the location of the switch thanks bill switch is in the steering wheel area. i believe you will have to remove the steering wheel. but first check the brake lights with the directional switch in the middle or off position to make sure both the brake lights do indeed work. this should eliminate the actual bulb and wiring. if the brake lights do work properly try the following. with the ignition off switch the directional lights to both directions and be sure the brake light goes off on the side you have switched the directional lights to. if you do remove the multifunction switch and replace it. buy two since you will eventually need another and it will be more expensive now then later. i have a 2001 dodge 1500 ram. bob az .

From : simpson

ok your call. i am an accomplished very experienced mechanic. i swapped my 96 ram 1500 318 that had a broken crank snout with a 360 from 2001. the 01 was an automatic and the 96 was a 5 speed. before i was done it had cost me $4500 all in and i did all the work. there are a number of pitfalls. explain to the group your specifics and ill see if i can add some tidbits. steve good advice. i have a 95 magnum 4x4 that is in excellent condition with about 175000 miles on the 318 and i would go with a crate engine if it ever shows any signs of giving up the ghost. there are a lot of issues to weigh when it comes to an engine replacement. tranny was done about 2000 miles ago and rear end 10000 ago. right now the engine is still running great with no oil usage or power loss so i have no idea how long it will go and i am very big on maintainence. since it is paid for and in good shape otherwise replacing the motor is a good option for me. if i were having other problems i would not bother and just go new or low milage used. i have a spacer on the intake mopar performance computer k&n filter and cold air intake msd ignition and real dual exhaust and get about 18mpg highway. the old beast would be tough to get rid of.......-. ed .

From : simpson

ok your call. i am an accomplished very experienced mechanic. i swapped my 96 ram 1500 318 that had a broken crank snout with a 360 from 2001. the 01 was an automatic and the 96 was a 5 speed. before i was done it had cost me $4500 all in and i did all the work. there are a number of pitfalls. explain to the group your specifics and ill see if i can add some tidbits. steve good advice. i have a 95 magnum 4x4 that is in excellent condition with about 175000 miles on the 318 and i would go with a crate engine if it ever shows any signs of giving up the ghost. there are a lot of issues to weigh when it comes to an engine replacement. tranny was done about 2000 miles ago and rear end 10000 ago. right now the engine is still running great with no oil usage or power loss so i have no idea how long it will go and i am very big on maintainence. since it is paid for and in good shape otherwise replacing the motor is a good option for me. if i were having other problems i would not bother and just go new or low milage used. i have a spacer on the intake mopar performance computer k&n filter and cold air intake msd ignition and real dual exhaust and get about 18mpg highway. the old beast would be tough to get rid of.......-. ed .

From : aarcuda69062

believe it or notnot 1 junk yard in my area has a steel rim to be used for a spare tire for my 01 dakota that someone stole the spare from.any idea where i can get one online i see aluminums for 80 bucksbut i just want an old steel wheel for the spare.its a 16 wheel for 2001 4 door dakota. tire rack sells steel rims for snow tires. you should be able to get one there. give them a call .

From : aarcuda69062

rh wrote believe it or notnot 1 junk yard in my area has a steel rim to be used for a spare tire for my 01 dakota that someone stole the spare from.any idea where i can get one online i see aluminums for 80 bucksbut i just want an old steel wheel for the spare.its a 16 wheel for 2001 4 door dakota. check the tire stores like discount tire that sell new wheels. they sometimes have used wheels and tires from the customers that didnt want to keep their old ones. -- ken .

From : mike romain

rh wrote believe it or notnot 1 junk yard in my area has a steel rim to be used for a spare tire for my 01 dakota that someone stole the spare from.any idea where i can get one online i see aluminums for 80 bucksbut i just want an old steel wheel for the spare.its a 16 wheel for 2001 4 door dakota. check the tire stores like discount tire that sell new wheels. they sometimes have used wheels and tires from the customers that didnt want to keep their old ones. -- ken . 222 343625 13uslpcac4c689@corp.super.com believe it or notnot 1 junk yard in my area has a steel rim to be used for a spare tire for my 01 dakota that someone stole the spare from.any idea where i can get one online i see aluminums for 80 bucksbut i just want an old steel wheel for the spare.its a 16 wheel for 2001 4 door dakota. .

From : mike romainmike romain

stories of speed no limit f1 world motorsports & automobiles easily translated to your language at http//all-of-f1.blogspot.com . 222 343623 fslbmt$er1$01$1@.t-online.com ok your call. i am an accomplished very experienced mechanic. i swapped my 96 ram 1500 318 that had a broken crank snout with a 360 from 2001. the 01 was an automatic and the 96 was a 5 speed. before i was done it had cost me $4500 all in and i did all the work. there are a number of pitfalls. explain to the group your specifics and ill see if i can add some tidbits. steve steve lusardi wrote maybe. your query sends me the message that you are not a skilled mechanic. assuming that i am correct do not attempt this on your own. there are many pitfalls and you will find all of them unless you have done this several times before. this is not inexpensive and could very easily exceed the total value of the truck. the end result will only be a 95 ram. think about it before you waste your money. steve i have to get and swap a used motor into a 1995 4wd ram pickup. seems like nope ive done lots of engine swaps over the years and know all the basics. i just havent done a dodge that i can remember and was looking for any vehicle specific tricks of the trade. krusty baguette typing from podunk ma strip away the phony tinsel of hollywood and you will find the real tinsel underneath. oscar levant * tagzilla 0.066 * http//tagzilla.mozdev.org .

From : mike romain

ok your call. i am an accomplished very experienced mechanic. i swapped my 96 ram 1500 318 that had a broken crank snout with a 360 from 2001. the 01 was an automatic and the 96 was a 5 speed. before i was done it had cost me $4500 all in and i did all the work. there are a number of pitfalls. explain to the group your specifics and ill see if i can add some tidbits. steve steve lusardi wrote maybe. your query sends me the message that you are not a skilled mechanic. assuming that i am correct do not attempt this on your own. there are many pitfalls and you will find all of them unless you have done this several times before. this is not inexpensive and could very easily exceed the total value of the truck. the end result will only be a 95 ram. think about it before you waste your money. steve i have to get and swap a used motor into a 1995 4wd ram pickup. seems like nope ive done lots of engine swaps over the years and know all the basics. i just havent done a dodge that i can remember and was looking for any vehicle specific tricks of the trade. krusty baguette typing from podunk ma strip away the phony tinsel of hollywood and you will find the real tinsel underneath. oscar levant * tagzilla 0.066 * http//tagzilla.mozdev.org .

From : mike romain

ford truck accessory buying your first or tenth ford truck will always create feelings of pride and satisfaction. and of course you will want to protect your investment the best way you know how but somehow many people never realize that the simple act of buying ford truck seat covers can protect and extend the life of your truck. consider the following benefits of buying ford truck seat covers. protect your seats if you drive a truck then you are probably around dirt and mud and other stain causing agents on a regular basis. the easiest way to keep stains from ruining your seats is to cover them with ford truck seat covers that are waterproof. this way not only will you protect your seats from regular stains but....... read more info at http//syubrawi.com/ford-truck-accessory http//syubrawi.com/ford-truck-accessory -ford truck accessory- .

From : mike romain

ford truck accessory buying your first or tenth ford truck will always create feelings of pride and satisfaction. and of course you will want to protect your investment the best way you know how but somehow many people never realize that the simple act of buying ford truck seat covers can protect and extend the life of your truck. consider the following benefits of buying ford truck seat covers. protect your seats if you drive a truck then you are probably around dirt and mud and other stain causing agents on a regular basis. the easiest way to keep stains from ruining your seats is to cover them with ford truck seat covers that are waterproof. this way not only will you protect your seats from regular stains but....... read more info at http//syubrawi.com/ford-truck-accessory http//syubrawi.com/ford-truck-accessory -ford truck accessory- .

From : simpson

on mar 27 1118=ef=bf=bdam aautio1...@yahoo.com wrote i have a 2001 ram 2500 with the cummins. =ef=bf=bdi recently had my rear b= rake lights and turn signals go out on it. =ef=bf=bdi have turn signlas up fron= t the 3rd brake light works fine the fuses are all good in the fuse box and the pdc and the brake lights and turn signals work fine on my trailer harness plug in oh and the bulbs are good but there is no power at the bulb sockets for either the brake light or turn signal...however there are running lights...any ideas what else to check a lot will depend on where the trailer harness/lights are connected. and how connected. on my truck the trailer lights are connected to the rear light harness and then to relays that connect power from the fuse box pdc under the hood. this way the turn signal flashing is not dependent on whether the trailer is connected. my guess is there is a problem with the connector to rear lighting or a bad ground. according to the factory service manual there are 2 or more grounds connected to the body and or the frame. i would not think that any connectors have become disconnected. bob az .

From : mike romain

on mar 27 1118=ef=bf=bdam aautio1...@yahoo.com wrote i have a 2001 ram 2500 with the cummins. =ef=bf=bdi recently had my rear b= rake lights and turn signals go out on it. =ef=bf=bdi have turn signlas up fron= t the 3rd brake light works fine the fuses are all good in the fuse box and the pdc and the brake lights and turn signals work fine on my trailer harness plug in oh and the bulbs are good but there is no power at the bulb sockets for either the brake light or turn signal...however there are running lights...any ideas what else to check a lot will depend on where the trailer harness/lights are connected. and how connected. on my truck the trailer lights are connected to the rear light harness and then to relays that connect power from the fuse box pdc under the hood. this way the turn signal flashing is not dependent on whether the trailer is connected. my guess is there is a problem with the connector to rear lighting or a bad ground. according to the factory service manual there are 2 or more grounds connected to the body and or the frame. i would not think that any connectors have become disconnected. bob az . 222 343621 dc047095-eae8-4687-a207-1bbf581957d8@e6g2000prf.googlegroups.com on mar 27 1118=ef=bf=bdam aautio1...@yahoo.com wrote i have a 2001 ram 2500 with the cummins. =ef=bf=bdi recently had my rear b= rake lights and turn signals go out on it. =ef=bf=bdi have turn signlas up fron= t the 3rd brake light works fine the fuses are all good in the fuse box and the pdc and the brake lights and turn signals work fine on my trailer harness plug in oh and the bulbs are good but there is no power at the bulb sockets for either the brake light or turn signal...however there are running lights...any ideas what else to check a lot will depend on where the trailer harness/lights are connected. and how connected. on my truck the trailer lights are connected to the rear light harness and then to relays that connect power from the fuse box pdc under the hood. this way the turn signal flashing is not dependent on whether the trailer is connected. my guess is there is a problem with the connector to rear lighting or a bad ground. according to the factory service manual there are 2 or more grounds connected to the body and or the frame. i would not think that any connectors have become disconnected. bob az .

From : aarcuda69062

i have to get and swap a used motor into a 1995 4wd ram pickup. seems like i read that motors from 1993 to 1997 are same/compatible. my local used parts yard wants to sell me a 2001 motor and says theyre all the same. is this true will i have to do some cobbing to make it work does anyone have any tips or tricks to make this job go easily it would help if you mentioned the engine size all will interchange up to 01 with the usual caveats about the possibility of having to change induction electrics mounts etc. . 222 343619 ew5hj.36915$by3.3902@big5.bellsouth.net i have to get and swap a used motor into a 1995 4wd ram pickup. seems like i read that motors from 1993 to 1997 are same/compatible. my local used parts yard wants to sell me a 2001 motor and says theyre all the same. is this true will i have to do some cobbing to make it work does anyone have any tips or tricks to make this job go easily thanks krustybaguette back when i was young dumb and poor i swapped in several used engines from the salvage yard. every single one of them turned into a nightmare at some point. how many miles are on this used engine are they willing to guarantee that it will work for a set number of miles or period of time if you get it installed and it shows signs of being worn out can you get a refund and will they reimburse you your labor one used motor i installed had a knocking rod. they gave me a refund but i was out the labor to install and remove it. another used engine i bought lasted about 60 days and came apart. when i did the autopsy it looked like it had about a million miles without an oil change. what is the price difference between this used engine and a reputable rebuilt motor or a factory crate engine as far as engine swaps in this year range you shouldnt have any real issues other than diagnosing the reasons you cant get the check engine light to go away. just make sure to have a code scanner handy after you get it up and running. you will probably have two or three codes to deal with. michael . 222 343619 ew5hj.36915$by3.3902@big5.bellsouth.net i have to get and swap a used motor into a 1995 4wd ram pickup. seems like i read that motors from 1993 to 1997 are same/compatible. my local used parts yard wants to sell me a 2001 motor and says theyre all the same. is this true will i have to do some cobbing to make it work does anyone have any tips or tricks to make this job go easily thanks krustybaguette back when i was young dumb and poor i swapped in several used engines from the salvage yard. every single one of them turned into a nightmare at some point. how many miles are on this used engine are they willing to guarantee that it will work for a set number of miles or period of time if you get it installed and it shows signs of being worn out can you get a refund and will they reimburse you your labor one used motor i installed had a knocking rod. they gave me a refund but i was out the labor to install and remove it. another used engine i bought lasted about 60 days and came apart. when i did the autopsy it looked like it had about a million miles without an oil change. what is the price difference between this used engine and a reputable rebuilt motor or a factory crate engine as far as engine swaps in this year range you shouldnt have any real issues other than diagnosing the reasons you cant get the check engine light to go away. just make sure to have a code scanner handy after you get it up and running. you will probably have two or three codes to deal with. michael . 222 343619 ew5hj.36915$by3.3902@big5.bellsouth.net i have to get and swap a used motor into a 1995 4wd ram pickup. seems like i read that motors from 1993 to 1997 are same/compatible. my local used parts yard wants to sell me a 2001 motor and says theyre all the same. is this true will i have to do some cobbing to make it work does anyone have any tips or tricks to make this job go easily thanks krustybaguette back when i was young dumb and poor i swapped in several used engines from the salvage yard. every single one of them turned into a nightmare at some point. how many miles are on this used engine are they willing to guarantee that it will work for a set number of miles or period of time if you get it installed and it shows signs of being worn out can you get a refund and will they reimburse you your labor one used motor i installed had a knocking rod. they gave me a refund but i was out the labor to install and remove it. another used engine i bought lasted about 60 days and came apart. when i did the autopsy it looked like it had about a million miles without an oil change. what is the price difference between this used engine and a reputable rebuilt motor or a factory crate engine as far as engine swaps in this year range you shouldnt have any real

From : aarcuda69062

steve lusardi wrote maybe. your query sends me the message that you are not a skilled mechanic. assuming that i am correct do not attempt this on your own. there are many pitfalls and you will find all of them unless you have done this several times before. this is not inexpensive and could very easily exceed the total value of the truck. the end result will only be a 95 ram. think about it before you waste your money. steve i have to get and swap a used motor into a 1995 4wd ram pickup. seems like nope ive done lots of engine swaps over the years and know all the basics. i just havent done a dodge that i can remember and was looking for any vehicle specific tricks of the trade. krusty baguette typing from podunk ma strip away the phony tinsel of hollywood and you will find the real tinsel underneath. oscar levant * tagzilla 0.066 * http//tagzilla.mozdev.org .

From : aarcuda69062

36eb00a2-d3c7-4c78-afac-c94eb309d141@s50g2000hsb.googlegroups.com aautio1004@yahoo.com wrote on mar 27 234pm bigironram n...@home.com wrote i have a 2001 ram 2500 with the cummins. i recently had my rear brake lights and turn signals go out on it. i have turn signlas up front the 3rd brake light works fine the fuses are all good in the fuse box and the pdc and the brake lights and turn signals work fine on my trailer harness plug in oh and the bulbs are good but there is no power at the bulb sockets for either the brake light or turn signal...however there are running lights...any ideas what else to check if this were an older truck id strongly suspect the turn signal switch now days i guess its called a multi function switch. even with the front turn signals working though yes. the rear turn signals are split from the front turn signals due to the need for brake lamp function. not saying its the switch just clarifying your question. .

From : simpson

i have a 2001 ram 2500 with the cummins. i recently had my rear brake lights and turn signals go out on it. i have turn signlas up front the 3rd brake light works fine the fuses are all good in the fuse box and the pdc and the brake lights and turn signals work fine on my trailer harness plug in oh and the bulbs are good but there is no power at the bulb sockets for either the brake light or turn signal...however there are running lights...any ideas what else to check if this were an older truck id strongly suspect the turn signal switch now days i guess its called a multi function switch. .

From : simpson

i have a 2001 ram 2500 with the cummins. i recently had my rear brake lights and turn signals go out on it. i have turn signlas up front the 3rd brake light works fine the fuses are all good in the fuse box and the pdc and the brake lights and turn signals work fine on my trailer harness plug in oh and the bulbs are good but there is no power at the bulb sockets for either the brake light or turn signal...however there are running lights...any ideas what else to check . 222 343611 fsglss$b9u$1@aioe.org 2001 dodge 2500 ctd the other day i put the truck in the garage on a nice clear dry evening. turning into my driveway i used the left turn signal and it worked. next morning it doesnt work fast cycling when on the left turn signal and brake light also doesnt work on that side. the bulb is fine the connector is clean and dry. no voltage in the connector. tried new bulb anyway same thing. right side works normally running/tail lights work normally both sides. front turn signal lights work both sides. i was looking on a schematic and they show a multifunction switch. is there a way this switch could fail and affect just one rear side what is the location of the switch thanks bill if you have a 7-way trailer connector at the hitch check for voltage at the terminal in the 9 o clock position when the brake or turn signal is supposed to be on. if it works at the 7-way connector the multi-function switch is fine. -- ken .

From : jeffmike romain

on thu 27 mar 2008 160239 +0000 bill allemann wrote already tried new bulb. checked with a meter there is no voltage in the left rear turn and stop light socket. the brake and turn lights both are out on the left side and both work on the right side and both front turn signals work. i have a factory manual on cd but i havent found anything in it to show the physical locations of junctions etc. maybe im looking in the wrong places bill ive had several problems with bulbs that are seemingly fine but caused the symtoms you describe nonetheless. replace both the front and rear bulbs with known good quality bulbs and i think your problem may be solved. ok i posted my last post before i read this one...lol check all fuses in the truck. irrc some of these trucks have separate fuses for right and left turn/brake lamps. could be just that simple. i cant remember now if the br/be trucks had that or not its been too long since i worked on one. but im a fan of the simple fixes *grin* -- chris .

From : aarcuda69062

i have to get and swap a used motor into a 1995 4wd ram pickup. seems like i read that motors from 1993 to 1997 are same/compatible. my local used parts yard wants to sell me a 2001 motor and says theyre all the same. is this true will i have to do some cobbing to make it work does anyone have any tips or tricks to make this job go easily thanks krustybaguette q whats the difference between a computer salesman and a used car salesman a a used car salesman knows when hes lying. * tagzilla 0.066 * http//tagzilla.mozdev.org .

From : aarcuda69062

roy wrote makes sense to me! can ya do the hypertech and the rockers for $600 -- yeah you can. and have money left over for gas. i did the rockers on my truck; total cost was just about $90. the going price for the hypertech e-con is about $330. -------- ..bob 2006 fxdi hot rod 2008 mustang coupe 2001 dodge dakota qc 5.9/4x4/3.92 1966 mustang coupe - daily driver 1965 ffr cobra - 427w efi damn fast. . 222 343598 47ea8cf2$0$25196$ec3e2dad@.usenetmonster.com roy wrote makes sense to me! can ya do the hypertech and the rockers for $600 -- yeah you can. and have money left over for gas. i did the rockers on my truck; total cost was just about $90. the going price for the hypertech e-con is about $330. -------- ..bob 2006 fxdi hot rod 2008 mustang coupe 2001 dodge dakota qc 5.9/4x4/3.92 1966 mustang coupe - daily driver 1965 ffr cobra - 427w efi damn fast. .

From : aarcuda69062

on mar 27 234=a0pm bigironram n...@home.com wrote i have a 2001 ram 2500 with the cummins. =a0i recently had my rear brake lights and turn signals go out on it. =a0i have turn signlas up front the 3rd brake light works fine the fuses are all good in the fuse box and the pdc and the brake lights and turn signals work fine on my trailer harness plug in oh and the bulbs are good but there is no power at the bulb sockets for either the brake light or turn signal...however there are running lights...any ideas what else to check =a0if this were an older truck id strongly suspect the turn signal switch= now days i guess its called a multi function switch. even with the front turn signals working though .

From : aarcuda69062

maybe. your query sends me the message that you are not a skilled mechanic. assuming that i am correct do not attempt this on your own. there are many pitfalls and you will find all of them unless you have done this several times before. this is not inexpensive and could very easily exceed the total value of the truck. the end result will only be a 95 ram. think about it before you waste your money. steve i have to get and swap a used motor into a 1995 4wd ram pickup. seems like i read that motors from 1993 to 1997 are same/compatible. my local used parts yard wants to sell me a 2001 motor and says theyre all the same. is this true will i have to do some cobbing to make it work does anyone have any tips or tricks to make this job go easily thanks krustybaguette q whats the difference between a computer salesman and a used car salesman a a used car salesman knows when hes lying. * tagzilla 0.066 * http//tagzilla.mozdev.org .

From : mike

maybe. your query sends me the message that you are not a skilled mechanic. assuming that i am correct do not attempt this on your own. there are many pitfalls and you will find all of them unless you have done this several times before. this is not inexpensive and could very easily exceed the total value of the truck. the end result will only be a 95 ram. think about it before you waste your money. steve i have to get and swap a used motor into a 1995 4wd ram pickup. seems like i read that motors from 1993 to 1997 are same/compatible. my local used parts yard wants to sell me a 2001 motor and says theyre all the same. is this true will i have to do some cobbing to make it work does anyone have any tips or tricks to make this job go easily thanks krustybaguette q whats the difference between a computer salesman and a used car salesman a a used car salesman knows when hes lying. * tagzilla 0.066 * http//tagzilla.mozdev.org .

From : mikemike

i have a 2001 ram 2500 with the cummins. i recently had my rear brake lights and turn signals go out on it. i have turn signlas up front the 3rd brake light works fine the fuses are all good in the fuse box and the pdc and the brake lights and turn signals work fine on my trailer harness plug in oh and the bulbs are good but there is no power at the bulb sockets for either the brake light or turn signal...however there are running lights...any ideas what else to check if this were an older truck id strongly suspect the turn signal switch now days i guess its called a multi function switch. .

From : aarcuda69062

ebay motors http//starturl.com/dodgeram .

From : aarcuda69062

what different bolt patterns does / did dodge use on 4wd locking hubs or drive flanges and rear axle drive flanges floaters looking for something using 6 on 2 3/8 -- posted via a free usenet account from http//www.tera.com .

From : simpson

mac rabbit you guys able to reach red if so please shoot me his addy. its been a long time since aol stopped carrying groups but heres the address he used to post with mopar440@aol.com its possible that since aol didnt allow munging of addresss that he may have blocked all mail to that account or white-listed it. .

From : simpson

2001 dodge 2500 ctd the other day i put the truck in the garage on a nice clear dry evening. turning into my driveway i used the left turn signal and it worked. next morning it doesnt work fast cycling when on the left turn signal and brake light also doesnt work on that side. the bulb is fine the connector is clean and dry. no voltage in the connector. tried new bulb anyway same thing. right side works normally running/tail lights work normally both sides. front turn signal lights work both sides. i was looking on a schematic and they show a multifunction switch. is there a way this switch could fail and affect just one rear side what is the location of the switch thanks bill if you have a 7-way trailer connector at the hitch check for voltage at the terminal in the 9 o clock position when the brake or turn signal is supposed to be on. if it works at the 7-way connector the multi-function switch is fine. -- ken .

From : mike romain

on thu 27 mar 2008 160239 +0000 bill allemann wrote already tried new bulb. checked with a meter there is no voltage in the left rear turn and stop light socket. the brake and turn lights both are out on the left side and both work on the right side and both front turn signals work. i have a factory manual on cd but i havent found anything in it to show the physical locations of junctions etc. maybe im looking in the wrong places bill ive had several problems with bulbs that are seemingly fine but caused the symtoms you describe nonetheless. replace both the front and rear bulbs with known good quality bulbs and i think your problem may be solved. ok i posted my last post before i read this one...lol check all fuses in the truck. irrc some of these trucks have separate fuses for right and left turn/brake lamps. could be just that simple. i cant remember now if the br/be trucks had that or not its been too long since i worked on one. but im a fan of the simple fixes *grin* -- chris .

From : aarcuda69062

on wed 26 mar 2008 174246 +0000 bill allemann wrote the brake and turn lights both are out on the left side and both work on the right side and both front turn signals work. i have a factory manual on cd but i havent found anything in it to show the physical locations of junctions etc. maybe im looking in the wrong places bill e793bc588835@m34g2000hsc.googlegroups.com... i was looking on a schematic and they show a multifunction switch. is there a way this switch could fail and affect just one rear side what is the location of the switch thanks bill switch is in the steering wheel area. i believe you will have to remove the steering wheel. but first check the brake lights with the directional switch in the middle or off position to make sure both the brake lights do indeed work. this should eliminate the actual bulb and wiring. if the brake lights do work properly try the following. with the ignition off switch the directional lights to both directions and be sure the brake light goes off on the side you have switched the directional lights to. if you do remove the multifunction switch and replace it. buy two since you will eventually need another and it will be more expensive now then later. i have a 2001 dodge 1500 ram. bob az have you changed the bulb looked at the condition of the bulb socket -- chris . 222 343608 zypgj.23911$ej5.9022@svr29..prodigy.net already tried new bulb. checked with a meter there is no voltage in the left rear turn and stop light socket. the brake and turn lights both are out on the left side and both work on the right side and both front turn signals work. i have a factory manual on cd but i havent found anything in it to show the physical locations of junctions etc. maybe im looking in the wrong places bill ive had several problems with bulbs that are seemingly fine but caused the symtoms you describe nonetheless. replace both the front and rear bulbs with known good quality bulbs and i think your problem may be solved. .

From : aarcuda69062

snip overall cost of ownership the gas burner is cheaper for the first quarter million miles. lets get real for a minute with cost.. your going to get 1/4 million miles out of a gas truck if so youll be replacing some serious components imo that you wont be in a cummins. i dont think that has been factored in as yet. but you are forgetting a key issue as well and that is time. sure the cummins can run for a long time before it needs any real work but how about the rest of the truck my truck is now 11 years old and still only has 118000 miles on it and for a while i was driving it 80 miles a day just to get to work. now if it gets 10000 a year that is a lot. to get it to 250000 would probably take me another 15 years and cummins or not what shape do you really think that truck will be in at 26 years old -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving according to how you treat it... when we buy a truck the first thing we do is put seat covers on it. there have been times where finding seat covers to fit a new body style has been a challenge but we manage. the drivers side seat cover starts to wear on the left side from entering and exiting the truck. when the wear starts to show we switch the passenger and drivers seat covers from side to side. when the seat covers eventually wear beyond repair we replace them. second thing we do is put those huge rubber floor mats in the floor boards. then we tint the windows to keep the u.v. from beating up on the interior as bad. when a truck is going to be parked for an extended time we put a sun block hickeymadoo in the front windshield. i have one truck that is 15 years old in which the interior looks almost as good as new. the interior on my 97 still looks good. we keep up with regular maintenance using quality materials. when we have to swap a part we use moco original parts. the trucks get washed occasionally and they seem to stay looking good. my 93 dak has a paint issue and we will be painting it before long and it will look as good as new again. here is how the life of a truck works around here. i buy a new truck and give it to the wife for making deliveries pick ups and general transportation. after about 5 to 7 years i buy her a new truck and that truck passes to me for a daily driver and work truck. i drive it for another 5 to 7 years and we repeat the process. the 10 to 14 year old truck then gets passed down to one of the workers here at the shop. it sees service 1 to 3 days per week until it gets rolled down the line when my wife and i do another rotation. so as the truck gets older it sees less frequent driving but still sees regular use and service. we keep them in the fleet until they are about 22 to 25 years old. then they get rolled off to farm duty hauling fertilizer firewood and taking real abusive treatment until they die a natural death. of course the the 84 mitsubishi built dodge is sitting in the woods behind the barn and i bet with a set of jumper cables to get it started it would get you where you needed to go and back. of course this truck looks pretty rough after living in a pine thicket for the past 8 or 10 years. if it was a diesel i bet it would look just as bad. michael . 222 343604 635f5e38-82ab-47a9-96fe-19e3ede706fe@e39g2000hsf.googlegroups.com knowing how the insurance works is the best way to make sure that you get the car insurance that is right for you... http//knowmorearticles.googlepages.com/purchasingcarinsurance .

From : aarcuda69062

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From : simpson

nunya i think you got your math wrong. there is absolutely no way in hell that i will ever own another gasoline driven vehicle. fuel economy is one of the lowest elements of the total cost of ownership tco. i do agree that using a 3.5 ton truck to get groceries is improper use of the vehicle. thats not my point. the fact that us auto makers are not offereing 2 & 3 liter diesels is the problem. the europeans have it correct. on another point sulpher in the fuel does not help an engine and it is not a lubricant. sulpher in all oil is the main contributer to the formulation of sulpheric acid which accumulates in the lube oil because of water condensation that occurs every time the engine crosses the dew point. this is what corrodes the oil. there are far more diesels in use in europe and the fuel there has been sulpher free for a very long time with absolutely no ill effects. the small diesel vehicle in europe consistantly see mileage like 60 mpg regularly. remember engine wear goes up with engine speed. diesels have no air control and make their power at lower engine speeds saving significant wear over the gasoline driven couterparts. the run onto diesels in europe has been so profound that the governments in europe have lost serious revenue as fuel is severly taxed to the point that the road tax and duties on diesels and diesel fuel have been drastically increased to compensate. please also note that diesel has 25% more latent energy by volume over gasoline and if the fuel is only $.50 more per gallon you are still getting a super deal. after all you pay by volume not weight. steve snip snip overall cost of ownership the gas burner is cheaper for the first quarter million miles. lets get real for a minute with cost.. your going to get 1/4 million miles out of a gas truck if so youll be replacing some serious components imo that you wont be in a cummins. i dont think that has been factored in as yet. but you are forgetting a key issue as well and that is time. sure the cummins can run for a long time before it needs any real work but how about the rest of the truck my truck is now 11 years old and still only has 118000 miles on it and for a while i was driving it 80 miles a day just to get to work. now if it gets 10000 a year that is a lot. to get it to 250000 would probably take me another 15 years and cummins or not what shape do you really think that truck will be in at 26 years old -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving . 222 343601 47eacb00$0$1120$4c368faf@roadrunner.com nunya i think you got your math wrong. there is absolutely no way in hell that i will ever own another gasoline driven vehicle. fuel economy is one of the lowest elements of the total cost of ownership tco. i do agree that using a 3.5 ton truck to get groceries is improper use of the vehicle. thats not my point. the fact that us auto makers are not offereing 2 & 3 liter diesels is the problem. the europeans have it correct. on another point sulpher in the fuel does not help an engine and it is not a lubricant. sulpher in all oil is the main contributer to the formulation of sulpheric acid which accumulates in the lube oil because of water condensation that occurs every time the engine crosses the dew point. this is what corrodes the oil. there are far more diesels in use in europe and the fuel there has been sulpher free for a very long time with absolutely no ill effects. the small diesel vehicle in europe consistantly see mileage like 60 mpg regularly. remember engine wear goes up with engine speed. diesels have no air control and make their power at lower engine speeds saving significant wear over the gasoline driven couterparts. the run onto diesels in europe has been so profound that the governments in europe have lost serious revenue as fuel is severly taxed to the point that the road tax and duties on diesels and diesel fuel have been drastically increased to compensate. please also note that diesel has 25% more latent energy by volume over gasoline and if the fuel is only $.50 more per gallon you are still getting a super deal. after all you pay by volume not weight. steve snip snip overall cost of ownership the gas burner is cheaper for the first quarter million miles. lets get real for a minute with cost.. your going to get 1/4 million miles out of a gas truck if so youll be replacing some serious components imo that you wont be in a cummins. i dont think that has been factored in as yet. but you are forgetting a key issue as well and that is time. sure the cummins can run for a long time before it needs any real work but how about the rest of the truck my truck is now 11 years old and still only has 118000 miles on it and for a while i was driving it 80 miles a day just to get to work. now if it gets 10000 a year that is a lot. to get it to 250000 would probably take me another 1

From : simpson

i have a 2000 1500 extended cab truck with a 318 efi automatic with overdrive. i would like to use my upcoming tax rebate to do some modifications to try to get better gas milage. with $600 in hand what would be the best way to accomplish my goal headers is there an electronic modification i can make i only get about 15 mpg no matter how conservative i drive. phyloe trade it in and use the extra $600 for a down payment on a diesel and get 25 mpg lol i doubt that with the new cummins and even there after it breaks in and you baby it. also with the price of diesel at $4.00 and going higher along with the higher price for the diesel to begin with it will be a long long long time before you ever recoup that money. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : aarcuda69062

mac rabbit you guys able to reach red if so please shoot me his addy. its been a long time since aol stopped carrying groups but heres the address he used to post with mopar440@aol.com its possible that since aol didnt allow munging of addresss that he may have blocked all mail to that account or white-listed it. i think thats his email ill give it a shot. thanks man. .

From : aarcuda69062

mac rabbit you guys able to reach red if so please shoot me his addy. its been a long time since aol stopped carrying groups but heres the address he used to post with mopar440@aol.com its possible that since aol didnt allow munging of addresss that he may have blocked all mail to that account or white-listed it. i think thats his email ill give it a shot. thanks man. .

From : aarcuda69062

phyloe wrote i have a 2000 1500 extended cab truck with a 318 efi automatic with overdrive. i would like to use my upcoming tax rebate to do some modifications to try to get better gas milage. with $600 in hand what would be the best way to accomplish my goal headers is there an electronic modification i can make i only get about 15 mpg no matter how conservative i drive. phyloe -- this is a tough call. you have to be very carefull about what changes you make. most performance oriented changes will increase power in the upper ranges but decrease at the lower ranges. other changes you can make will pay of at the pump but may take 50-60k miles to break even. you want to keep your changes simple and inexspensive. in the end you must realize that youre driving a 4500# brick. its never going to get good mileage. with a $600 budget i would make these changes 1. a good tune up with quality parts. be sure to clean the throttle body. 2. change all fluids over to synthetic. 3. if you have oil in the bottom of the intake manifold change the belly pan gasket. 4. retune with hypertechs e-con programmer. 5. change the stock rocker arms for viper parts. makes sense to me! can ya do the hypertech and the rockers for $600 .

From : simpson

steve lusardi wrote i know that and i agree with your observation of shop manuals. i build a lot of motors and now have to use a 4 gas analyzer to tune as there are no visible indicators anymore on the plugs. you only see ash now with racing fuel. steve and all this time i have been sweating my pearly white insulators. damn... time to find something else to sweat over. steve lusardi wrote unless you are using leaded gasoline or burning lube oil there is no color change as there is no more ash. the lead in gas created lead bromide ash which lubricated the valves and valve seats. that ash appeared as a light tan deposit on the plugs. eroded electrodes and anodes indicates over heated plugs so if you are using the correct heat range no or very low erosion will occur. so the answer to your question is yes you can have a bad plug due to ceramic cracking carbon tracking or resister failure and have it not be visible. steve thats interesting about the tan coloring no longer being an indicator of a healthy engine and a correct air fuel mixture. someone needs to tell the writers of shop manuals. leaded fuel began being phased out in the us in 1973 and have been totally banned for on-road vehicles for 12 years now. i pose this question in my ongoing quest to improve performance on my 87 dakota without spending unnecessarily. actually its not the spending that bothers me. i just dont feel like changing my plugs. condemn me for a lazy good-for-nothing if you will but thats just the way it is today. the reason i know that they look healthy is that every once in a while i pull one to see how its doing. hello plug how ya doin i come to watch your changing huin huin - slangy contraction of hueing from hue a gradation or variety of a color; tint the plugs have nice unworn square electrodes and are properly gapped and over all have a nice healthy appearance albeit the ceramic insulators are a bit on the white side. can i assume that they are in good shape or is there some internal condition unseen by mortal eye that can develop that causes plug performance to deteriorate the truck idles a bit rough nothing at all severe but something that i think could be improved. i am ruling out the fuel delivery for the moment and concentrating on the ignition. the cap and rotor appear to be in good condition. the ignition wires all measure a bit below the low end of the resistance range as specified in the service manual 250 to 600 ohms per inch. mine are about 200 to 220 ohms per inch and are not that old. .

From : simpson

phyloe wrote i have a 2000 1500 extended cab truck with a 318 efi automatic with overdrive. i would like to use my upcoming tax rebate to do some modifications to try to get better gas milage. with $600 in hand what would be the best way to accomplish my goal headers is there an electronic modification i can make i only get about 15 mpg no matter how conservative i drive. phyloe -- this is a tough call. you have to be very carefull about what changes you make. most performance oriented changes will increase power in the upper ranges but decrease at the lower ranges. other changes you can make will pay of at the pump but may take 50-60k miles to break even. you want to keep your changes simple and inexspensive. in the end you must realize that youre driving a 4500# brick. its never going to get good mileage. with a $600 budget i would make these changes 1. a good tune up with quality parts. be sure to clean the throttle body. 2. change all fluids over to synthetic. 3. if you have oil in the bottom of the intake manifold change the belly pan gasket. 4. retune with hypertechs e-con programmer. 5. change the stock rocker arms for viper parts. makes sense to me! can ya do the hypertech and the rockers for $600 .

From : simpson

snip i am going to put a mopar 390 hp/360 ci crate engine in it and i have a nos 727 auto to shoehorn into it. i also have a posi traction dana 60 to go under the rear. this should make the car a blast to drive. if any of yall need a good 727 auto i found five nos mopar units in the storage building of a local dodge dealer. i am going to keep two of them and sell the other three. i also have two 292 hemis and a 354 hemi to sell off. i thought about putting one of the hemis in the dart but the 360 crate engine is just too easy. michael the dart is nice. i think were it mine and i were younger id opt for the hemi keeping all the original stuff. you might be in good shape with the 727s if you can read the numbers and they are old enough so sombody that is doing a numbers matching can use one. e bay one and see how it goes. my concern about the hemi in the dart is weight. i would have to start swapping front suspension components and the price to build a hemi properly is scary. also there would be a bunch of fabricating to get the air conditioning stuff to mount up and all. the 318 to 360 swap should be fairly straight forward and 390 hp in a car the weight of the dart should be plenty of fun. while i am going to sell my two 291 hemis and the 354 i am keeping a 331 and a 392 for some sort of future project. probably an e body car. somehow i came across a bunch of chrysler stuff a couple of years ago and couldnt resist buying it all. now i have a bunch of stuff and not much budget left to put it all together. between the tractor motorcycle and car projects i am currently running way low on my toy budget. michael i guy that was on her redneck from hell has a drag car with a hemi. he may be interested. i lost his addy when i moved but a couple of folks here may be able to reach out to him. mac rabbit you guys able to reach red if so please shoot me his addy. . 222 343593 47ea7c87$0$17335$4c368faf@roadrunner.com snip i am going to put a mopar 390 hp/360 ci crate engine in it and i have a nos 727 auto to shoehorn into it. i also have a posi traction dana 60 to go under the rear. this should make the car a blast to drive. if any of yall need a good 727 auto i found five nos mopar units in the storage building of a local dodge dealer. i am going to keep two of them and sell the other three. i also have two 292 hemis and a 354 hemi to sell off. i thought about putting one of the hemis in the dart but the 360 crate engine is just too easy. michael the dart is nice. i think were it mine and i were younger id opt for the hemi keeping all the original stuff. you might be in good shape with the 727s if you can read the numbers and they are old enough so sombody that is doing a numbers matching can use one. e bay one and see how it goes. my concern about the hemi in the dart is weight. i would have to start swapping front suspension components and the price to build a hemi properly is scary. also there would be a bunch of fabricating to get the air conditioning stuff to mount up and all.

From : simpson

fairly straight forward and 390 hp in a car the weight of the dart should be plenty of fun. while i am going to sell my two 291 hemis and the 354 i am keeping a 331 and a 392 for some sort of future project. probably an e body car. somehow i came across a bunch of chrysler stuff a couple of years ago and couldnt resist buying it all. now i have a bunch of stuff and not much budget left to put it all together. between the tractor motorcycle and car projects i am currently running way low on my toy budget. michael i guy that was on her redneck from hell has a drag car with a hemi. he may be interested. i lost his addy when i moved but a couple of folks here may be able to reach out to him. mac rabbit you guys able to reach red if so please shoot me his addy. . 222 343592 47ea57ea$0$25203$ec3e2dad@.usenetmonster.com phyloe wrote i have a 2000 1500 extended cab truck with a 318 efi automatic with overdrive. i would like to use my upcoming tax rebate to do some modifications to try to get better gas milage. with $600 in hand what would be the best way to accomplish my goal headers is there an electronic modification i can make i only get about 15 mpg no matter how conservative i drive. phyloe -- this is a tough call. you have to be very carefull about what changes you make. most performance oriented changes will increase power in the upper ranges but decrease at the lower ranges. other changes you can make will pay of at the pump but may take 50-60k miles to break even. you want to keep your changes simple and inexspensive. in the end you must realize that youre driving a 4500# brick. its never going to get good mileage. with a $600 budget i would make these changes 1. a good tune up with quality parts. be sure to clean the throttle body. 2. change all fluids over to synthetic. 3. if you have oil in the bottom of the intake manifold change the belly pan gasket. 4. retune with hypertechs e-con programmer. 5. change the stock rocker arms for viper parts. -------- ..bob 2006 fxdi hot rod 2008 mustang coupe 2001 dodge dakota qc 5.9/4x4/3.92 1966 mustang coupe - daily driver 1965 ffr cobra - 427w efi damn fast. .

From : simpson

snip i am going to put a mopar 390 hp/360 ci crate engine in it and i have a nos 727 auto to shoehorn into it. i also have a posi traction dana 60 to go under the rear. this should make the car a blast to drive. if any of yall need a good 727 auto i found five nos mopar units in the storage building of a local dodge dealer. i am going to keep two of them and sell the other three. i also have two 292 hemis and a 354 hemi to sell off. i thought about putting one of the hemis in the dart but the 360 crate engine is just too easy. michael the dart is nice. i think were it mine and i were younger id opt for the hemi keeping all the original stuff. you might be in good shape with the 727s if you can read the numbers and they are old enough so sombody that is doing a numbers matching can use one. e bay one and see how it goes. my concern about the hemi in the dart is weight. i would have to start swapping front suspension components and the price to build a hemi properly is scary. also there would be a bunch of fabricating to get the air conditioning stuff to mount up and all. the 318 to 360 swap should be fairly straight forward and 390 hp in a car the weight of the dart should be plenty of fun. while i am going to sell my two 291 hemis and the 354 i am keeping a 331 and a 392 for some sort of future project. probably an e body car. somehow i came across a bunch of chrysler stuff a couple of years ago and couldnt resist buying it all. now i have a bunch of stuff and not much budget left to put it all together. between the tractor motorcycle and car projects i am currently running way low on my toy budget. michael .

From : aarcuda69062

snip any of you folks that can get a gas job to perform the same tasks as a cummins day in day out for !/4 million miles without some serious repairs id like to hear about. how about a 2500 or 3500 cummins and a gas job and then go hot shot it. give me a shout at 1/4 million miles and let me know what your expensess are. htf do you compare a dodge dart to a cumminsg i will agree that for super heavy duty service that my gas burners will not keep up with my cummins. but how many folks actually use their diesels for real work. 90% of the ones i see on the road are just like my wifes. nothing but oversized passenger vehicles. with the service i get out of my other trucks i expect hers to last near about forever. but since the topic had morphed into an economy idea i was just pointing out that buying a diesel thinking that the extra fuel mileage was going to save you money is mostly a myth when you figure in *all* of the costs. like i said before if you are hauling a backhoe on a goose neck trailer every day or pulling a 36 fifth wheel camper full time the gas burner will not keep up. how do i compare the dart to the cummins just throwing in how many miles it has and it is still running. of course the oil leaks that are sprouting are due to low manifold vacuum. i am going to have to tear it down and rebuild it before long. of course i have just been waiting for an excuse to tear into the dart. i am going to build it into a screamer. here are a few photos of the little dart http//www.coolclimbing.com/dodgedartmine.htm i am going to put a mopar 390 hp/360 ci crate engine in it and i have a nos 727 auto to shoehorn into it. i also have a posi traction dana 60 to go under the rear. this should make the car a blast to drive. if any of yall need a good 727 auto i found five nos mopar units in the storage building of a local dodge dealer. i am going to keep two of them and sell the other three. i also have two 292 hemis and a 354 hemi to sell off. i thought about putting one of the hemis in the dart but the 360 crate engine is just too easy. michael .

From : aarcuda69062

snip any of you folks that can get a gas job to perform the same tasks as a cummins day in day out for !/4 million miles without some serious repairs id like to hear about. how about a 2500 or 3500 cummins and a gas job and then go hot shot it. give me a shout at 1/4 million miles and let me know what your expensess are. htf do you compare a dodge dart to a cumminsg i will agree that for super heavy duty service that my gas burners will not keep up with my cummins. but how many folks actually use their diesels for real work. 90% of the ones i see on the road are just like my wifes. nothing but oversized passenger vehicles. with the service i get out of my other trucks i expect hers to last near about forever. but since the topic had morphed into an economy idea i was just pointing out that buying a diesel thinking that the extra fuel mileage was going to save you money is mostly a myth when you figure in *all* of the costs. like i said before if you are hauling a backhoe on a goose neck trailer every day or pulling a 36 fifth wheel camper full time the gas burner will not keep up. how do i compare the dart to the cummins just throwing in how many miles it has and it is still running. of course the oil leaks that are sprouting are due to low manifold vacuum. i am going to have to tear it down and rebuild it before long. of course i have just been waiting for an excuse to tear into the dart. i am going to build it into a screamer. here are a few photos of the little dart http//www.coolclimbing.com/dodgedartmine.htm i am going to put a mopar 390 hp/360 ci crate engine in it and i have a nos 727 auto to shoehorn into it. i also have a posi traction dana 60 to go under the rear. this should make the car a blast to drive. if any of yall need a good 727 auto i found five nos mopar units in the storage building of a local dodge dealer. i am going to keep two of them and sell the other three. i also have two 292 hemis and a 354 hemi to sell off. i thought about putting one of the hemis in the dart but the 360 crate engine is just too easy. michael .

From : mike

snip any of you folks that can get a gas job to perform the same tasks as a cummins day in day out for !/4 million miles without some serious repairs id like to hear about. how about a 2500 or 3500 cummins and a gas job and then go hot shot it. give me a shout at 1/4 million miles and let me know what your expensess are. htf do you compare a dodge dart to a cumminsg i will agree that for super heavy duty service that my gas burners will not keep up with my cummins. but how many folks actually use their diesels for real work. 90% of the ones i see on the road are just like my wifes. nothing but oversized passenger vehicles. with the service i get out of my other trucks i expect hers to last near about forever. but since the topic had morphed into an economy idea i was just pointing out that buying a diesel thinking that the extra fuel mileage was going to save you money is mostly a myth when you figure in *all* of the costs. like i said before if you are hauling a backhoe on a goose neck trailer every day or pulling a 36 fifth wheel camper full time the gas burner will not keep up. how do i compare the dart to the cummins just throwing in how many miles it has and it is still running. of course the oil leaks that are sprouting are due to low manifold vacuum. i am going to have to tear it down and rebuild it before long. of course i have just been waiting for an excuse to tear into the dart. i am going to build it into a screamer. here are a few photos of the little dart http//www.coolclimbing.com/dodgedartmine.htm i am going to put a mopar 390 hp/360 ci crate engine in it and i have a nos 727 auto to shoehorn into it. i also have a posi traction dana 60 to go under the rear. this should make the car a blast to drive. if any of yall need a good 727 auto i found five nos mopar units in the storage building of a local dodge dealer. i am going to keep two of them and sell the other three. i also have two 292 hemis and a 354 hemi to sell off. i thought about putting one of the hemis in the dart but the 360 crate engine is just too easy. michael .

From : mike

snip any of you folks that can get a gas job to perform the same tasks as a cummins day in day out for !/4 million miles without some serious repairs id like to hear about. how about a 2500 or 3500 cummins and a gas job and then go hot shot it. give me a shout at 1/4 million miles and let me know what your expensess are. htf do you compare a dodge dart to a cumminsg i will agree that for super heavy duty service that my gas burners will not keep up with my cummins. but how many folks actually use their diesels for real work. 90% of the ones i see on the road are just like my wifes. nothing but oversized passenger vehicles. with the service i get out of my other trucks i expect hers to last near about forever. but since the topic had morphed into an economy idea i was just pointing out that buying a diesel thinking that the extra fuel mileage was going to save you money is mostly a myth when you figure in *all* of the costs. like i said before if you are hauling a backhoe on a goose neck trailer every day or pulling a 36 fifth wheel camper full time the gas burner will not keep up. how do i compare the dart to the cummins just throwing in how many miles it has and it is still running. of course the oil leaks that are sprouting are due to low manifold vacuum. i am going to have to tear it down and rebuild it before long. of course i have just been waiting for an excuse to tear into the dart. i am going to build it into a screamer. here are a few photos of the little dart http//www.coolclimbing.com/dodgedartmine.htm i am going to put a mopar 390 hp/360 ci crate engine in it and i have a nos 727 auto to shoehorn into it. i also have a posi traction dana 60 to go under the rear. this should make the car a blast to drive. if any of yall need a good 727 auto i found five nos mopar units in the storage building of a local dodge dealer. i am going to keep two of them and sell the other three. i also have two 292 hemis and a 354 hemi to sell off. i thought about putting one of the hemis in the dart but the 360 crate engine is just too easy. michael . 222 343588 eeigj.25791$r76.15161@big8.bellsouth.net snip any of you folks that can get a gas job to perform the same tasks as a cummins day in day out for !/4 million miles without some serious repairs id like to hear about. how about a 2500 or 3500 cummins and a gas job and then go hot shot it. give me a shout at 1/4 million miles and let me know what your expensess are. htf do you compare a dodge dart to a cumminsg i will agree that for super heavy duty service that my gas burners will not keep up with my cummins. but how many folks actually use their diesels for real work. 90% of the ones i see on the road are just like my wifes. nothing but oversized passenger vehicles. with the service i get out of my other trucks i expect hers to last near about forever. but since the topic had morphed into an economy idea i was just pointing out that buying a diesel thinking that the extra fuel mileage was going to save you money is mostly a myth when you figure in *all* of the costs. like i said before if you are hauling a backhoe on a goose neck trailer every day or pulling a 36 fifth wheel camper full time the gas burner will not keep up. how do i compare the dart to the cummins just throwing in how many miles it has and it is still running. of course the oil leaks that are sprouting are due to low manifold vacuum. i am going to have to tear it down and rebuild it before long. of course i have just been waiting for an excuse to tear into the dart. i am going to build it into a screamer. here are a few photos of the little dart http//www.coolclimbing.com/dodgedartmine.htm i am going to put a mopar 390 hp/360 ci crate engine in it and i have a nos 727 auto to shoehorn into it. i also have a posi traction dana 60 to go under the rear. this should make the car a blast to drive. if any of yall need a good 727 auto i found five nos mopar units in the storage building of a local dodge dealer. i am going to keep two of them and sell the other three. i also have two 292 hemis and a 354 hemi to sell off. i thought about putting one of the hemis in the dart but the 360 crate engine is just too easy. michael .

From : aarcuda69062

snip any of you folks that can get a gas job to perform the same tasks as a cummins day in day out for !/4 million miles without some serious repairs id like to hear about. how about a 2500 or 3500 cummins and a gas job and then go hot shot it. give me a shout at 1/4 million miles and let me know what your expensess are. htf do you compare a dodge dart to a cumminsg i will agree that for super heavy duty service that my gas burners will not keep up with my cummins. but how many folks actually use their diesels for real work. 90% of the ones i see on the road are just like my wifes. nothing but oversized passenger vehicles. with the service i get out of my other trucks i expect hers to last near about forever. very true. but since the topic had morphed into an economy idea i was just pointing out that buying a diesel thinking that the extra fuel mileage was going to save you money is mostly a myth when you figure in *all* of the costs. like i said before if you are hauling a backhoe on a goose neck trailer every day or pulling a 36 fifth wheel camper full time the gas burner will not keep up. i was pointing out that the 1/4 million miles with like trucks one cummins and one gasyoud be ahead in the expense column with the cummins if both were worked. how do i compare the dart to the cummins just throwing in how many miles it has and it is still running. of course the oil leaks that are sprouting are due to low manifold vacuum. i am going to have to tear it down and rebuild it before long. of course i have just been waiting for an excuse to tear into the dart. i am going to build it into a screamer. here are a few photos of the little dart http//www.coolclimbing.com/dodgedartmine.htm i am going to put a mopar 390 hp/360 ci crate engine in it and i have a nos 727 auto to shoehorn into it. i also have a posi traction dana 60 to go under the rear. this should make the car a blast to drive. if any of yall need a good 727 auto i found five nos mopar units in the storage building of a local dodge dealer. i am going to keep two of them and sell the other three. i also have two 292 hemis and a 354 hemi to sell off. i thought about putting one of the hemis in the dart but the 360 crate engine is just too easy. michael the dart is nice. i think were it mine and i were younger id opt for the hemi keeping all the original stuff. you might be in good shape with the 727s if you can read the numbers and they are old enough so sombody that is doing a numbers matching can use one. e bay one and see how it goes. .