Carburetor EGR port question
From : simpson
Q: just take the center belt and insert it into your lock. thats what i did on mine years ago. been there ever since. -- ------------------------------------------ laszlo almasi ----cool toys formerly carolina watercraft works ----mack daddy trailers ----ice angels anybody know how to disable the damn seatbelt chime/gong im driving around on the ranch in and out of the rig constantly and the chime is driving me nuts. thanks bob .
Replies:
From : aarcuda69062
on sun 6 apr 2008 075939 -0400 roy roy@fhome.net wrote asked this 2 or 3 times in the chevy 4x4 group with no replies so thought id try it here 95 small blazer 4 door v-6 auto 4x4... most available factory upgrades.. the heating/ac often decides the temperature settings for us... can go to cool to hot randomly or cold to hot if the ac is on... im thinking some kind of vacuum thing or something but have no real idea what it might be.. gotta get it fixed before summer or its going to lose its place as our daily driver.. suggestions besides getting a dodge we already have 2 does this have automatic climate control or do you have manual settings denny id bet manual. reads like a door is free to flop back and forth. wouldnt think he needs heat there. were it me id be keeping the thing set for cool all the time. roy id almost promise it is manual in that it is not computer controlled but uses vacuum to activate the various functions including the water valve and the blend door. in fact it is probably similar to the one used by chrysler! bg .
From : aarcuda69062
on sat 05 apr 2008 194056 -0800 mac davis macsplinters@davisbaja.com wrote asked this 2 or 3 times in the chevy 4x4 group with no replies so thought id try it here 95 small blazer 4 door v-6 auto 4x4... most available factory upgrades.. the heating/ac often decides the temperature settings for us... can go to cool to hot randomly or cold to hot if the ac is on... im thinking some kind of vacuum thing or something but have no real idea what it might be.. gotta get it fixed before summer or its going to lose its place as our daily driver.. suggestions besides getting a dodge we already have 2 mac please remove splinters before emailing check all the vacuum hoses in the hvac unit. does it swtich to defrost from time to time too if so that may indicate low vacuum. .
From : mr som ting wong
on sat 05 apr 2008 194056 -0800 mac davis macsplinters@davisbaja.com wrote asked this 2 or 3 times in the chevy 4x4 group with no replies so thought id try it here 95 small blazer 4 door v-6 auto 4x4... most available factory upgrades.. the heating/ac often decides the temperature settings for us... can go to cool to hot randomly or cold to hot if the ac is on... im thinking some kind of vacuum thing or something but have no real idea what it might be.. gotta get it fixed before summer or its going to lose its place as our daily driver.. suggestions besides getting a dodge we already have 2 mac please remove splinters before emailing check all the vacuum hoses in the hvac unit. does it swtich to defrost from time to time too if so that may indicate low vacuum. .
From : simpson tinauxide
this guys name is charlie nudo. hes the same rat-bastard spammer that has been posting his same old sorry shit all around usenet for years. none of his crap is ever worth looking at. if by accident he ever got something that was actually valueable i hope he chokes on it. he also goes by trippin28track and 66fourdoor and about 10 other names as well. just do a google groups search for his latest user name or email address and youll see the hundreds of groups hes been smearing his shit around on. better yet search google for charlie nudo. pick any hit at random and have a good laugh. its only a coincidence he posted something dodge in this group. if he was selling gold bricks for a nickle each i wouldnt buy any from him. stay away from this guy. far far away. -- especially someone who cant get the year correct. her ehe has 55 and online he has 53 ken .
From : simpson tinauxide
rh wrote nosey wrote rh wrote all i can find is this wheel is a 16x7does anyone have the offsetetc by chance so i can order a wheel.not 1 junkyard near me has a steel wheel but i want to ask them about a generic wheel as they have been searching for a dakota specific wheel. you seem to be wasting an awful lot of time and energy researching something thats sitting right in front of you. remove one of your wheels and measure it. it isnt hard. see https//www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html -- ken cant really measure the width of the wheel with a tire on it. i know its a 16 and it has 6 boltsthats about it. i was hoping someone knew the factory specs on the wheelsthese are factory wheelsnot aftermarket. sure you can close enough anyway... 1. remove tire & wheel from vehicle. 2. lay tire & wheel on flat surface. 3. using a stick of wood at least as long as the tire is in diameter and a measuring tape measure the section width of the tire. 4. using the stick of wood measure from one sidewall to the rim where the tire bead seats. 5. subtract 2x the second measurement from the first measurement. the result is the width of the rim + 2x the thickness of the edge of the rim. bryan i emailed tire racki hope to hear back from them soon . 222 343673 ft8j3p$etd$1@aioe.org wingridernow@gmail.com wrote howdy all i am starting to notice rust on the very bottom of the door. first it was on the inside i sanded loose stuff off then applied two coats of por 15. that camoflaged it for awhile but now it is visable on the outside of the door. now this is the only door this is happening to all other doors are fine. i spoke with a coworker who had a 2005 ram 2500 and his did the same thing so what seems to give here they are not even close in age. might i be missing weep holes at the bottom of this door otherwise truck is in great shape for its age and has only 33k on the clock. it is also the turbo diesel. thanks bill the first signs of corrosion showed up on my 99 in the grill support area under the hood. you might want to look there before its too late. my doors have no rust. -- ken .
From : aarcuda69062
howdy all i am starting to notice rust on the very bottom of the door. first it was on the inside i sanded loose stuff off then applied two coats of por 15. that camoflaged it for awhile but now it is visable on the outside of the door. now this is the only door this is happening to all other doors are fine. i spoke with a coworker who had a 2005 ram 2500 and his did the same thing so what seems to give here they are not even close in age. might i be missing weep holes at the bottom of this door otherwise truck is in great shape for its age and has only 33k on the clock. it is also the turbo diesel. thanks bill .
From : mike romain
if it were in reasonable or at least running condition and someone had a specific need for that engine i would agree but that engine is just above scrap metal. even he claimed that it is seized and will need a full rebuild and the pictures also show what looks like a rats or mice nest in the bell housing and the bell housing is cracked. who knows just how much rust and corrosion is inside of that engine. that engine in stock form is only good for around 180 hp big deal. when you really add it up the engine at 1500 then a full rebuild kit which i also saw on ebay for around 1500 more then at least another 500 or more in machine work and it will probably need a new carb because if it is in as poor shape as the rest of that engine looks like it is probably a basket case as well. all in all you are looking at around $4000 to get that engine back in good running condition and that is a lot of money for around 200 hp rare or not. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving maybe its not complete crap. given the prices some la blocks are commanding now a rare early hemi for $1500 isnt a bad price. i doubt hell get it on buy it now but it may bid up to that. -- max everyone is entitled to his own opinion he is not entitled to his own facts. sen. daniel patrick moynihan of new york it really amazes me how much some people think complete crap is worth. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving http//cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayisapi.dllviewitem&ih=004&sspagename=strk%3amese%3ait&viewitem=&item=140221677814&rd=1 . 222 343668 47f6b870$0$12567$4c368faf@roadrunner.com if it were in reasonable or at least running condition and someone had a specific need for that engine i would agree but that engine is just above scrap metal. even he claimed that it is seized and will need a full rebuild and the pictures also show what looks like a rats or mice nest in the bell housing and the bell housing is cracked. who knows just how much rust and corrosion is inside of that engine. that engine in stock form is only good for around 180 hp big deal. when you really add it up the engine at 1500 then a full rebuild kit which i also saw on ebay for around 1500 more then at least another 500 or more in machine work and it will probably need a new carb because if it is in as poor shape as the rest of that engine looks like it is probably a basket case as well. all in all you are looking at around $4000 to get that engine back in good running condition and that is a lot of money for around 200 hp rare or not. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving maybe its not complete crap. given the prices some la blocks are commanding now a rare early hemi for $1500 isnt a bad price. i doubt hell get it on buy it now but it may bid up to that. -- max everyone is entitled to his own opinion he is not entitled to his own facts. sen. daniel patrick moynihan of new york it really amazes me how much some people think complete crap is worth. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving http//cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayisapi.dllviewitem&ih=004&sspagename=strk%3amese%3ait&viewitem=&item=140221677814&rd=1 .
From : aarcuda69062
on mar 24 200 pm ace1 a...@tech.com wrote i have a 97 ram 1500. my transmission slips between 45 to 55 mph is this going to be an exspensive repair job perhaps a low $ band adjustment could fix it guessing. if its not an expensive problem then it will quickly become one if you let it continue slipping. .
From : bigironram
i know that and i agree with your observation of shop manuals. i build a lot of motors and now have to use a 4 gas analyzer to tune as there are no visible indicators anymore on the plugs. you only see ash now with racing fuel. steve steve lusardi wrote unless you are using leaded gasoline or burning lube oil there is no color change as there is no more ash. the lead in gas created lead bromide ash which lubricated the valves and valve seats. that ash appeared as a light tan deposit on the plugs. eroded electrodes and anodes indicates over heated plugs so if you are using the correct heat range no or very low erosion will occur. so the answer to your question is yes you can have a bad plug due to ceramic cracking carbon tracking or resister failure and have it not be visible. steve thats interesting about the tan coloring no longer being an indicator of a healthy engine and a correct air fuel mixture. someone needs to tell the writers of shop manuals. leaded fuel began being phased out in the us in 1973 and have been totally banned for on-road vehicles for 12 years now. i pose this question in my ongoing quest to improve performance on my 87 dakota without spending unnecessarily. actually its not the spending that bothers me. i just dont feel like changing my plugs. condemn me for a lazy good-for-nothing if you will but thats just the way it is today. the reason i know that they look healthy is that every once in a while i pull one to see how its doing. hello plug how ya doin i come to watch your changing huin huin - slangy contraction of hueing from hue a gradation or variety of a color; tint the plugs have nice unworn square electrodes and are properly gapped and over all have a nice healthy appearance albeit the ceramic insulators are a bit on the white side. can i assume that they are in good shape or is there some internal condition unseen by mortal eye that can develop that causes plug performance to deteriorate the truck idles a bit rough nothing at all severe but something that i think could be improved. i am ruling out the fuel delivery for the moment and concentrating on the ignition. the cap and rotor appear to be in good condition. the ignition wires all measure a bit below the low end of the resistance range as specified in the service manual 250 to 600 ohms per inch. mine are about 200 to 220 ohms per inch and are not that old. -- chuck norris can fool all of the people all of the time and chuck norris supports mccain. mccain -- it rhymes with hussein bahrain cocaine insane wolfbane chest pain and chow mein. .
From : bigironram
michael i replied to your reply not the ops. you brought up the use of the proper vehicle for the job which i agreed with but your comparison of gas vehicles as opposed to diesel ones simply is incorrect. as the owner of a dodge cummins and a dodge ram with a 360 in europe i can personally attest to. as an additional note the rule here in europe is that the break even point is 20000km a year where that and more the diesel is cheaper. if you drive less than that the gas vehicle is more economical. steve nunya i think you got your math wrong. there is absolutely no way in hell that i will ever own another gasoline driven vehicle. fuel economy is one of the lowest elements of the total cost of ownership tco. i do agree that using a 3.5 ton truck to get groceries is improper use of the vehicle. thats not my point. the fact that us auto makers are not offereing 2 & 3 liter diesels is the problem. the europeans have it correct. on another point sulpher in the fuel does not help an engine and it is not a lubricant. sulpher in all oil is the main contributer to the formulation of sulpheric acid which accumulates in the lube oil because of water condensation that occurs every time the engine crosses the dew point. this is what corrodes the oil. there are far more diesels in use in europe and the fuel there has been sulpher free for a very long time with absolutely no ill effects. the small diesel vehicle in europe consistantly see mileage like 60 mpg regularly. remember engine wear goes up with engine speed. diesels have no air control and make their power at lower engine speeds saving significant wear over the gasoline driven couterparts. the run onto diesels in europe has been so profound that the governments in europe have lost serious revenue as fuel is severly taxed to the point that the road tax and duties on diesels and diesel fuel have been drastically increased to compensate. please also note that diesel has 25% more latent energy by volume over gasoline and if the fuel is only $.50 more per gallon you are still getting a super deal. after all you pay by volume not weight. steve snip the op i was responding to was specifically about the fuel economy of dodge trucks. there were no references to european diesel cars. i usually spend a month in europe every year. it always astounds me how efficient our rental cars are. i usually rent opal turbo diesels. the last car i rented over there averaged about 55 mpg on diesel. it was as fast as a scalded cat and much more ergonomic than any american car i have ever driven. if it was available here in the u.s. i would probably purchase one. i will agree that diesel has much more potential than gasoline. but in american made full size trucks the numbers i quoted are correct. you cannot compare a european diesels stats to a 3/4 ton 4x4 truck with a cummins. since this is a dodge truck forum i have to work under the theory that we are discussing dodge trucks. and for overall cost of ownership the gas burner is cheaper for the first quarter million miles. after that the diesel becomes more cost effient due to the durability of the truck. heavier duty components combined with a slight increase in mileage eventually win out but it is it is a long time before that point is reached. michael .
From : mike romain
nunya i think you got your math wrong. there is absolutely no way in hell that i will ever own another gasoline driven vehicle. fuel economy is one of the lowest elements of the total cost of ownership tco. i do agree that using a 3.5 ton truck to get groceries is improper use of the vehicle. thats not my point. the fact that us auto makers are not offereing 2 & 3 liter diesels is the problem. the europeans have it correct. on another point sulpher in the fuel does not help an engine and it is not a lubricant. sulpher in all oil is the main contributer to the formulation of sulpheric acid which accumulates in the lube oil because of water condensation that occurs every time the engine crosses the dew point. this is what corrodes the oil. there are far more diesels in use in europe and the fuel there has been sulpher free for a very long time with absolutely no ill effects. the small diesel vehicle in europe consistantly see mileage like 60 mpg regularly. remember engine wear goes up with engine speed. diesels have no air control and make their power at lower engine speeds saving significant wear over the gasoline driven couterparts. the run onto diesels in europe has been so profound that the governments in europe have lost serious revenue as fuel is severly taxed to the point that the road tax and duties on diesels and diesel fuel have been drastically increased to compensate. please also note that diesel has 25% more latent energy by volume over gasoline and if the fuel is only $.50 more per gallon you are still getting a super deal. after all you pay by volume not weight. steve snip snip overall cost of ownership the gas burner is cheaper for the first quarter million miles. lets get real for a minute with cost.. your going to get 1/4 million miles out of a gas truck if so youll be replacing some serious components imo that you wont be in a cummins. i dont think that has been factored in as yet. .
From : mike romain
nunya i think you got your math wrong. there is absolutely no way in hell that i will ever own another gasoline driven vehicle. fuel economy is one of the lowest elements of the total cost of ownership tco. i do agree that using a 3.5 ton truck to get groceries is improper use of the vehicle. thats not my point. the fact that us auto makers are not offereing 2 & 3 liter diesels is the problem. the europeans have it correct. on another point sulpher in the fuel does not help an engine and it is not a lubricant. sulpher in all oil is the main contributer to the formulation of sulpheric acid which accumulates in the lube oil because of water condensation that occurs every time the engine crosses the dew point. this is what corrodes the oil. there are far more diesels in use in europe and the fuel there has been sulpher free for a very long time with absolutely no ill effects. the small diesel vehicle in europe consistantly see mileage like 60 mpg regularly. remember engine wear goes up with engine speed. diesels have no air control and make their power at lower engine speeds saving significant wear over the gasoline driven couterparts. the run onto diesels in europe has been so profound that the governments in europe have lost serious revenue as fuel is severly taxed to the point that the road tax and duties on diesels and diesel fuel have been drastically increased to compensate. please also note that diesel has 25% more latent energy by volume over gasoline and if the fuel is only $.50 more per gallon you are still getting a super deal. after all you pay by volume not weight. steve snip snip overall cost of ownership the gas burner is cheaper for the first quarter million miles. lets get real for a minute with cost.. your going to get 1/4 million miles out of a gas truck if so youll be replacing some serious components imo that you wont be in a cummins. i dont think that has been factored in as yet. . 222 343575 x0bgj.30157$r84.19579@svr25..prodigy.net steve lusardi wrote unless you are using leaded gasoline or burning lube oil there is no color change as there is no more ash. the lead in gas created lead bromide ash which lubricated the valves and valve seats. that ash appeared as a light tan deposit on the plugs. eroded electrodes and anodes indicates over heated plugs so if you are using the correct heat range no or very low erosion will occur. so the answer to your question is yes you can have a bad plug due to ceramic cracking carbon tracking or resister failure and have it not be visible. steve thats interesting about the tan coloring no longer being an indicator of a healthy engine and a correct air fuel mixture. someone needs to tell the writers of shop manuals. leaded fuel began being phased out in the us in 1973 and have been totally banned for on-road vehicles for 12 years now. i pose this question in my ongoing quest to improve performance on my 87 dakota without spending unnecessarily. actually its not the spending that bothers me. i just dont feel like changing my plugs. condemn me for a lazy good-for-nothing if you will but thats just the way it is today. the reason i know that they look healthy is that every once in a while i pull one to see how its doing. hello plug how ya doin i come to watch your changing huin huin - slangy contraction of hueing from hue a gradation or variety of a color; tint the plugs have nice unworn square electrodes and are properly gapped and over all have a nice healthy appearance albeit the ceramic insulators are a bit on the white side. can i assume that they are in good shape or is there some internal condition unseen by mortal eye that can develop that causes plug performance to deteriorate the truck idles a bit rough nothing at all severe but something that i think could be improved. i am ruling out the fuel delivery for the moment and concentrating on the ignition. the cap and rotor appear to be in good condition. the ignition wires all measure a bit below the low end of the resistance range as specified in the service manual 250 to 600 ohms per inch. mine are about 200 to 220 ohms per inch and are not that old. -- chuck norris can fool all of the people all of the time and chuck norris supports mccain. mccain -- it rhymes with hussein bahrain cocaine insane wolfbane chest pain and chow mein. .
From : simpson
unless you are using leaded gasoline or burning lube oil there is no color change as there is no more ash. the lead in gas created lead bromide ash which lubricated the valves and valve seats. that ash appeared as a light tan deposit on the plugs. eroded electrodes and anodes indicates over heated plugs so if you are using the correct heat range no or very low erosion will occur. so the answer to your question is yes you can have a bad plug due to ceramic cracking carbon tracking or resister failure and have it not be visible. steve i pose this question in my ongoing quest to improve performance on my 87 dakota without spending unnecessarily. actually its not the spending that bothers me. i just dont feel like changing my plugs. condemn me for a lazy good-for-nothing if you will but thats just the way it is today. the reason i know that they look healthy is that every once in a while i pull one to see how its doing. hello plug how ya doin i come to watch your changing huin huin - slangy contraction of hueing from hue a gradation or variety of a color; tint the plugs have nice unworn square electrodes and are properly gapped and over all have a nice healthy appearance albeit the ceramic insulators are a bit on the white side. can i assume that they are in good shape or is there some internal condition unseen by mortal eye that can develop that causes plug performance to deteriorate the truck idles a bit rough nothing at all severe but something that i think could be improved. i am ruling out the fuel delivery for the moment and concentrating on the ignition. the cap and rotor appear to be in good condition. the ignition wires all measure a bit below the low end of the resistance range as specified in the service manual 250 to 600 ohms per inch. mine are about 200 to 220 ohms per inch and are not that old. .
From : simpson
unless you are using leaded gasoline or burning lube oil there is no color change as there is no more ash. the lead in gas created lead bromide ash which lubricated the valves and valve seats. that ash appeared as a light tan deposit on the plugs. eroded electrodes and anodes indicates over heated plugs so if you are using the correct heat range no or very low erosion will occur. so the answer to your question is yes you can have a bad plug due to ceramic cracking carbon tracking or resister failure and have it not be visible. steve i pose this question in my ongoing quest to improve performance on my 87 dakota without spending unnecessarily. actually its not the spending that bothers me. i just dont feel like changing my plugs. condemn me for a lazy good-for-nothing if you will but thats just the way it is today. the reason i know that they look healthy is that every once in a while i pull one to see how its doing. hello plug how ya doin i come to watch your changing huin huin - slangy contraction of hueing from hue a gradation or variety of a color; tint the plugs have nice unworn square electrodes and are properly gapped and over all have a nice healthy appearance albeit the ceramic insulators are a bit on the white side. can i assume that they are in good shape or is there some internal condition unseen by mortal eye that can develop that causes plug performance to deteriorate the truck idles a bit rough nothing at all severe but something that i think could be improved. i am ruling out the fuel delivery for the moment and concentrating on the ignition. the cap and rotor appear to be in good condition. the ignition wires all measure a bit below the low end of the resistance range as specified in the service manual 250 to 600 ohms per inch. mine are about 200 to 220 ohms per inch and are not that old. .
From : simpson
nunya i think you got your math wrong. there is absolutely no way in hell that i will ever own another gasoline driven vehicle. fuel economy is one of the lowest elements of the total cost of ownership tco. i do agree that using a 3.5 ton truck to get groceries is improper use of the vehicle. thats not my point. the fact that us auto makers are not offereing 2 & 3 liter diesels is the problem. the europeans have it correct. on another point sulpher in the fuel does not help an engine and it is not a lubricant. sulpher in all oil is the main contributer to the formulation of sulpheric acid which accumulates in the lube oil because of water condensation that occurs every time the engine crosses the dew point. this is what corrodes the oil. there are far more diesels in use in europe and the fuel there has been sulpher free for a very long time with absolutely no ill effects. the small diesel vehicle in europe consistantly see mileage like 60 mpg regularly. remember engine wear goes up with engine speed. diesels have no air control and make their power at lower engine speeds saving significant wear over the gasoline driven couterparts. the run onto diesels in europe has been so profound that the governments in europe have lost serious revenue as fuel is severly taxed to the point that the road tax and duties on diesels and diesel fuel have been drastically increased to compensate. please also note that diesel has 25% more latent energy by volume over gasoline and if the fuel is only $.50 more per gallon you are still getting a super deal. after all you pay by volume not weight. steve i have a 2000 1500 extended cab truck with a 318 efi automatic with overdrive. i would like to use my upcoming tax rebate to do some modifications to try to get better gas milage. with $600 in hand what would be the best way to accomplish my goal headers is there an electronic modification i can make i only get about 15 mpg no matter how conservative i drive. phyloe trade it in and use the extra $600 for a down payment on a diesel and get 25 mpg a diesel is not a money saving vehicle anymore unless you are using it for towing heavy loads almost daily. first you figure in the extra 6k on your purchase price over a gas burner. then you figure in the extra cost to service. 12 quarts of rotella fuel filter and such for every service is much more expensive than the service costs on a gas burner. then add in an extra 50 cents a gallon for fuel this is going to stay that way due to the new low sulphur requirements then the addition of a decent lubricant to the fuel to make up for the lack of sulphur. for daily driving a diesel is just not as good of a deal as it used to be even with the extra fuel mileage. i have been considering a new truck. i did the math to see where the break even point on the diesel over gas burner would become advantagous. after figuring the additional cost of purchase service and fuel compared to the little tad of extra fuel economy the calculator said that the diesel would not save me a dime until somewhere in the 250000 to 300000 mile range. that was compared to a 1500 with a 360. when i did the comparason to a dakota then the diesel was never going to catch up economically. i have a 2500 4x4 diesel and when i filled it up last week it cost 140 dollars. of course it does get 19mpg on average. my wife drives this truck as her daily driver. i have a 1500 4x4 with a 360. at 285000 miles on the clock it gets an average of 12 mpg. it is my personal daily driver. i use it for short to medium length trips. when i have a longer trip i have a 4x4 dakota with a magnum v-6. it gets 19 mpg just like the diesel does. but the gasoline costs much less and the service cost is less than half that of the 2500s. on days where i am just taking myself somewhere i ride a motorcycle. my three harleys average over 40 mpg between them. sunday i had to drive 80 miles round trip to visit my mom for easter. it would have cost me 16 bucks in the diesel 23 bucks in the 1500 or 14 dollars in the dakota. i rode the harley and when i got back home it took 6.50 dollars worth of fuel to fill it up. the proper tool for the job... you dont use a slegde hammer for driving finish nails in trim. you dont necessarily need a cummins powered diesel for a passenger vehicle. michael p.s. remember all this is coming from a guy who likes everything jumbo sized and my wife is worse than i am. she was a long haul trucker for over a decade and then spent about 5 years driving a tandom dump truck. she refuses to drive something small so i dont worry about the cost of keeping her in the cummins. if economy was a primary issue she would be in a v-6 dakota. .
From : mike romain
personally id remove the oem manual clutch fan and replace it with an electric temp controlled fan. mine locked up on my 360 2500 4x4 and upon removal i observed an increase of 10% in fuel economy. its still cool enough to run with no fan here and may be where you are as well so give it a try and see. just remove your fan and run a few tanks through it and see. if it makes no difference then reinstall it and look elsewhere. personally....id be willing to bet you will see 16.5-17 mpg afterwards...which adds up. -- ------------------------------------------ laszlo almasi ----cool toys formerly carolina watercraft works ----mack daddy trailers ----ice angels i have a 2000 1500 extended cab truck with a 318 efi automatic with overdrive. i would like to use my upcoming tax rebate to do some modifications to try to get better gas milage. with $600 in hand what would be the best way to accomplish my goal headers is there an electronic modification i can make i only get about 15 mpg no matter how conservative i drive. phyloe .
From : mike romain
personally id remove the oem manual clutch fan and replace it with an electric temp controlled fan. mine locked up on my 360 2500 4x4 and upon removal i observed an increase of 10% in fuel economy. its still cool enough to run with no fan here and may be where you are as well so give it a try and see. just remove your fan and run a few tanks through it and see. if it makes no difference then reinstall it and look elsewhere. personally....id be willing to bet you will see 16.5-17 mpg afterwards...which adds up. -- ------------------------------------------ laszlo almasi ----cool toys formerly carolina watercraft works ----mack daddy trailers ----ice angels i have a 2000 1500 extended cab truck with a 318 efi automatic with overdrive. i would like to use my upcoming tax rebate to do some modifications to try to get better gas milage. with $600 in hand what would be the best way to accomplish my goal headers is there an electronic modification i can make i only get about 15 mpg no matter how conservative i drive. phyloe .
From : mike romainmike romain
nunya i think you got your math wrong. there is absolutely no way in hell that i will ever own another gasoline driven vehicle. fuel economy is one of the lowest elements of the total cost of ownership tco. i do agree that using a 3.5 ton truck to get groceries is improper use of the vehicle. thats not my point. the fact that us auto makers are not offereing 2 & 3 liter diesels is the problem. the europeans have it correct. on another point sulpher in the fuel does not help an engine and it is not a lubricant. sulpher in all oil is the main contributer to the formulation of sulpheric acid which accumulates in the lube oil because of water condensation that occurs every time the engine crosses the dew point. this is what corrodes the oil. there are far more diesels in use in europe and the fuel there has been sulpher free for a very long time with absolutely no ill effects. the small diesel vehicle in europe consistantly see mileage like 60 mpg regularly. remember engine wear goes up with engine speed. diesels have no air control and make their power at lower engine speeds saving significant wear over the gasoline driven couterparts. the run onto diesels in europe has been so profound that the governments in europe have lost serious revenue as fuel is severly taxed to the point that the road tax and duties on diesels and diesel fuel have been drastically increased to compensate. please also note that diesel has 25% more latent energy by volume over gasoline and if the fuel is only $.50 more per gallon you are still getting a super deal. after all you pay by volume not weight. steve i have a 2000 1500 extended cab truck with a 318 efi automatic with overdrive. i would like to use my upcoming tax rebate to do some modifications to try to get better gas milage. with $600 in hand what would be the best way to accomplish my goal headers is there an electronic modification i can make i only get about 15 mpg no matter how conservative i drive. phyloe trade it in and use the extra $600 for a down payment on a diesel and get 25 mpg a diesel is not a money saving vehicle anymore unless you are using it for towing heavy loads almost daily. first you figure in the extra 6k on your purchase price over a gas burner. then you figure in the extra cost to service. 12 quarts of rotella fuel filter and such for every service is much more expensive than the service costs on a gas burner. then add in an extra 50 cents a gallon for fuel this is going to stay that way due to the new low sulphur requirements then the addition of a decent lubricant to the fuel to make up for the lack of sulphur. for daily driving a diesel is just not as good of a deal as it used to be even with the extra fuel mileage. i have been considering a new truck. i did the math to see where the break even point on the diesel over gas burner would become advantagous. after figuring the additional cost of purchase service and fuel compared to the little tad of extra fuel economy the calculator said that the diesel would not save me a dime until somewhere in the 250000 to 300000 mile range. that was compared to a 1500 with a 360. when i did the comparason to a dakota then the diesel was never going to catch up economically. i have a 2500 4x4 diesel and when i filled it up last week it cost 140 dollars. of course it does get 19mpg on average. my wife drives this truck as her daily driver. i have a 1500 4x4 with a 360. at 285000 miles on the clock it gets an average of 12 mpg. it is my personal daily driver. i use it for short to medium length trips. when i have a longer trip i have a 4x4 dakota with a magnum v-6. it gets 19 mpg just like the diesel does. but the gasoline costs much less and the service cost is less than half that of the 2500s. on days where i am just taking myself somewhere i ride a motorcycle. my three harleys average over 40 mpg between them. sunday i had to drive 80 miles round trip to visit my mom for easter. it would have cost me 16 bucks in the diesel 23 bucks in the 1500 or 14 dollars in the dakota. i rode the harley and when i got back home it took 6.50 dollars worth of fuel to fill it up. the proper tool for the job... you dont use a slegde hammer for driving finish nails in trim. you dont necessarily need a cummins powered diesel for a passenger vehicle. michael p.s. remember all this is coming from a guy who likes everything jumbo sized and my wife is worse than i am. she was a long haul trucker for over a decade and then spent about 5 years driving a tandom dump truck. she refuses to drive something small so i dont worry about the cost of keeping her in the cummins. if economy was a primary issue she would be in a v-6 dakota. . 222 343570 1206456252833@isp.n aarcuda69062 wrote wrote no it wouldnt be a lean misfire. lean misfire comes from too much air and not enough fuel. opening the egr does n
From : simpson tinauxide
it was rebuilt by aamco. bill wrote i wonder if the torque converter was installed properly.. at least the op noted automatic rebuild. might be a clue. might. quoted text clipped - 10 lines bob -- message posted via carkb.com http//www.carkb.com/uwe/forums.aspx/dodge-truck/200804/1 . 222 343657 821b66a6c9109@uwe thanks guys that was alot of help. carolina watercraft works wrote what should i look for a place where you dont have to back up maybe lol...sorry...couldnt resist. when im backing up truck seems to hesitate like trying to die. but when driving it seems to run fine. what should i look for help -- message posted via carkb.com http//www.carkb.com/uwe/forums.aspx/dodge-truck/200804/1 .
From : simpson tinauxide
i have an 03 grand caravan. i need to install a trailer hitch for this summers camping trip. one of the four bolts is broken off and i need to pull the bumper inside the plastic cover to get the broken piece out. simple question does the bumper cover have any hidden fasteners. i found three screws on the inner wheel wells two more on the left and right sides of the cover exposed when the liftgate is open and four or five plastic body fasteners underneath. have i found everything thanks krusty baguette typing from podunk ma waiter if this is coffee please bring me some tea; but if this is tea please bring me some coffee. - abraham lincoln 1809-1865 * tagzilla 0.066 * http//tagzilla.mozdev.org . 222 343659 47f4833b$0$26015$88260bb3@free.tera.com dear friend i know all about your worries. thats because i was once in that same situation. * not knowing how to pay my next bill * detesting the job i am forced to do * being made ill by all that over time * dreaming all day long about mansions swimming pools and super cars * worried about the welfare of my kids just imagine how your life would become if you knew what it really takes to creating more money than you have ever dreamed you could make what if you had the knowledge skills tools and resources that allowed you to generate hundreds of dollars every day totally on autopilot. in fact what if you developed the knowledge and skills that allowed you to make money from your ideas at will ... imagine... * all that stress suddenly vanishes * you can fire your boss and tell him where to shove it * take holidays whenever you want and for as long as you want * be proud of the car and house that you actually own * give your children a rich fun and fulfilling childhood ... my friend all i ask is that you take a moment to read about this course i found that will change your life. it is very easy extremely reasonable nothing more to buy after the initial purchase and best of all there is a 60 day money back guarantee. if youre not happy with the product if you feel it is just not for you if you wish a refund for any reason within 60 days you can request a full refund. since there is really nothing to lose why not at least take a look and see if this works as well for you as it has for me. trust me i hate spam more then anyone and was reluctant to post this. however after studying this course for a bit and seeing how easy it was to get involved in making money from home i had to post to tell others. i assure you youll be telling all your friends about this once you spend some time learning what this short course to financial freedom is about. http//carcha64.netsalaries.com/hop best of luck in your adventure. if it works out for you please drop me an email to let me know how youre doing. i do love hearing other success stories. chas smith sdytb$--$65-h -- posted via a free usenet account from http//www.tera.com .
From : masterblaster
2001 dodge 2500 ctd the other day i put the truck in the garage on a nice clear dry evening. turning into my driveway i used the left turn signal and it worked. next morning it doesnt work fast cycling when on the left turn signal and brake light also doesnt work on that side. the bulb is fine the connector is clean and dry. no voltage in the connector. tried new bulb anyway same thing. right side works normally running/tail lights work normally both sides. front turn signal lights work both sides. i was looking on a schematic and they show a multifunction switch. is there a way this switch could fail and affect just one rear side what is the location of the switch thanks bill .
From : masterblaster
and no bunny jokes here ya go. -- http//concealedcarryforum.com/forum/topic.asptopicid=3657 - not bad..... bg denny . 222 343553 47e825ea$0$30514$4c368faf@roadrunner.com on mon 24 mar 2008 104456 gmt honeybs@radix.net beekeep wrote and no bunny jokes beekeep many in mind none posted out of respect for our furry friend... yeah right bro the friggin rabbit has spent the last week or so doing reloads. now we have a armed rabbit running around so i shant be making any rabbit remarks. the hell i wont!! he needs all the ammo for practice!! cause he cant keep up with his daughter! you can say that again.... damned kids..... and i hope yall gained about five lbs from all the eaten... denny .
From : mike romain
on thu 27 mar 2008 171001 +0000 christopher d. thompson nospam@nospam.nospam wrote on wed 26 mar 2008 174246 +0000 bill allemann wrote the brake and turn lights both are out on the left side and both work on the right side and both front turn signals work. i have a factory manual on cd but i havent found anything in it to show the physical locations of junctions etc. maybe im looking in the wrong places bill =20 =20 =20 e793bc588835@m34g2000hsc.googlegroups.com... =20 i was looking on a schematic and they show a multifunction switch. = is there a way this switch could fail and affect just one rear side = what is the location of the switch thanks =20 bill =20 switch is in the steering wheel area. i believe you will have to = remove the steering wheel. =20 but first check the brake lights with the directional switch in the middle or off position to make sure both the brake lights do indeed work. this should eliminate the actual bulb and wiring. =20 if the brake lights do work properly try the following. with the ignition off switch the directional lights to both directions and be sure the brake light goes off on the side you have switched the directional lights to. =20 if you do remove the multifunction switch and replace it. buy two = since you will eventually need another and it will be more expensive now = then later. =20 i have a 2001 dodge 1500 ram. =20 bob az have you changed the bulb looked at the condition of the bulb socket i have had that happen in a gmc jimmy 1998 before except the voltage at the socket was 10.4 volts & it didnt work. turned out to be the multi-function directional switch for the tune of just under $300.00 bucks. good luck! due to e-mail spamming bots my reply address is incorrect. .
From : simpson
36eb00a2-d3c7-4c78-afac-c94eb309d141@s50g2000hsb.googlegroups.com aautio1004@yahoo.com wrote on mar 27 234pm bigironram n...@home.com wrote i have a 2001 ram 2500 with the cummins. i recently had my rear brake lights and turn signals go out on it. i have turn signlas up front the 3rd brake light works fine the fuses are all good in the fuse box and the pdc and the brake lights and turn signals work fine on my trailer harness plug in oh and the bulbs are good but there is no power at the bulb sockets for either the brake light or turn signal...however there are running lights...any ideas what else to check if this were an older truck id strongly suspect the turn signal switch now days i guess its called a multi function switch. even with the front turn signals working though yes. the rear turn signals are split from the front turn signals due to the need for brake lamp function. not saying its the switch just clarifying your question. .