CTD Fuel mileage

From : big al

Q: on mon 10 oct 2005 035022 gmt jerry jlrice1655@earthlink.net wrote mac davis wrote a nice compromise is to get the 2500 and put a good set of air bags in... they boast the load rating but not the max tow rating and help you keep the truck/trailer level... a big plus is that you can take the bags down to 4 or 5 psi when you run empty and you get a nice smooth ride.. you sure they may increase the load you can safely carry but i dont believe they change the legal load rating at all. dunno jerry... but if im towing non-commercial all im concerned with is safety... mac please remove splinters before emailing .

Replies:

From : de

i have a 91 dodge w250 with the cummins diesel engine. recently i experienced some air in my brake lines and when i pressed the pedal to the floor my emergency brake and anti-lock brake light on my dash lit up. i bled the brakes but the lights on my dash stayed lit except now they go out when i press the brake in. i also began experiencing intermittent static on my radio and my speedometer is fluctuating wildly. i have recently noticed that my oil pressue gauge and temperature gauge also appear to be reading erratically. i have checked all the fuses but nothing was blown. i also have not experienced any engine problems. does anyone have any ideas what might have caused this it does seem to have originated when my brake pedal was depressed all the way. could this have broken something .

From : john

lol what does this have to do with percentages 17.12 is not 200% of 10.80 as you claim. did the word almost slip by you or did you just redefine that one as well. 17.12 isnt almost 21.60 either. its about 4 short. when moving 10 increments having 4 more to go is not almost. go ahead argue...... it is a hell of a lot closer to 21.60 then it is to 10.80 no argument needed. within spec thats great show me a spec for a cap and rotor please. contacts clean little to no visible carbon arc trails no visible wear on the rotor or cap contacts and no cracks in the cap. sounds like in spec to me. now are you going to respond to this with three identical posts too. thats not a spec thats making a judgment call. spec calls for new since that is the only condition where things will be perfect. lol even new does not make things perfect and there are always tolerances for these parts for that reason. just because it is not new does not mean it is still not within those tolerances. and yeah ill post it four times if ya want...... yep thats what i want. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : christopher thompson

do you really think that a factory coil is even capable of putting out 50kv most are more in the range of 15kv to 20kv with the gm hei claiming 50k but that is at idle. at speeds of 3200rpm or so that voltage drops to around 28kv or less. better start reading up then. mp puts the voltage at 40kv in a run of the mill mid seventies mopar ignition system. in fact its long been reputed to have been better than the gm hei of the same era. another tip you might read up on is the fact that the faster the coil field is built and collapsed the more voltage you will get. hint thats why electronic switching is so much better than mechanical points switching. the plugs were still fine when i removed them. perhaps when i said that the y could have gone another 10k or more should have tipped you off to that. why replace them if you could go further its the same logic you used when determining why the stock plugs were chosen. as for the cap and rotor i had already looked at them since they are a bit easier to inspect and they both looked good. unlike many of you i dont waste money fixing what aint broke. unlike you we dont waste time waiting till it is broke to fix it. its called preventitive maintenance. once again you accuse me of your own actions and as for making fun of me with you demonstraighted complete lack of understanding in the operations of the ignition system the only one you are making a fool out of is yourself. better check again. yeah well you categorized us as those in the group so if you dont like ht category stop making them and dumping us in them. really where did i do that or are you just desperatly reaching again i already quoted the line. if you missed it too bad. please reply as im hanging on every word...... -- max give a man a match and he is warm for a short while. light him on fire and he is warm for the rest of his life. then you are an idiot. the voltage across the gap means everything and if you dont care about it why did you mention it i didnt. you did. talking out your ass about resistance and voltages.... the stuff ignites with a spark doesnt matter if the spark is 10v or 100000v. hahahahahahahahaha you are joking right you simply have to have the setup working correctly for the voltage you have. fortunately sparkplug designers already did the math. that is correct to a point but that is not always possible with certian components as your buddy made clear with his brothers vehicle. hahahahahahahahahaha you really dont have a clue as to what a coil does or how do you obviously if you think 50kv is something to laugh about you dont either. do you really think that a factory coil is even capable of putting out 50kv most are more in the range of 15kv to 20kv with the gm hei claiming 50k but that is at idle. at speeds of 3200rpm or so that voltage drops to around 28kv or less. my factory copper core went well over 50k and the only reason that i replaced them is that they were way over there expected life. funny thing is that they still were in pretty good shape and could have gone another 10k or more. um.... so...... you have proven exactly why the factory plugs arent holding up as well as the platinums. did you meant to do that lol now you are trying to redefine what i am saying sounds like a desperate act to me. hey my plugs did fine until they were well beyond spcification. then they didnt do too well did they but hey you replaced them and all because they were way over due... but the cap and rotor screw that those can sitt for as long as they want because they never go out of spec right the plugs were still fine when i removed them. perhaps when i said that the y could have gone another 10k or more should have tipped you off to that. i bought new ones because the old ones were comming up on twice their expected lifetime and had no idea what shape they were going to be in when i removed them. since i already had the new ones it made no sence not to replace them since i was going to remove all of the old ones for inspection anyway. as for the cap and rotor i had already looked at them since they are a bit easier to inspect and they both looked good. unlike many of you i dont waste money fixing what aint broke. see tom im done the factual part of the exchange now im just making fun of you waiting for you to slip... again. then youll disappear for a month and leave us in peace. once again you accuse me of your own actions and as for making fun of me with you demonstraighted complete lack of understanding in the operations of the ignition system the only one you are making a fool out of is yourself. lol are we a class or catagory perhaps you should look at the definition right under that one you know the one that actually deals with people. yeah well you categorized us as those in the group so if you don

From : Annonymous

i think if your area has a lemon law you should file both get a new truck and recover damages due to fraud but talk to a lawyer before you do anything. .

From : steve lusardi

i get 14 city 16 city/hwy mix and 19 hwy if i keep it under 70. 2004 2500 305/555 ctd auto 4x4 3.73 craig c. .