CC CLeaner results (was: code 43/P0307 thread)
From : Annonymous
Q: isnt it kinda funny that when brown was forced to resign and make no mistake he was that the only person that bush found that could pass the qualification muster was a democrat with 30 years experiance in fire and emergency service and support. not particularly funny but sadly typical. many times the appointee is a product of who will get the most chance to pass a vote than who has the most experience despite who likes them. not a bush republican to be found. bush had to swallow hard on that one i bet. just confirms that giving the chance bush picks people for political favors within the party not those really most qualified unless his hand is forced. the next guy to fall will the the director of home land security who still insists that he knew nothing about the storm until after it hit get real his days are numbered and who will be his replacement maybe itll be bernard kerik like it should have been to begin with. -- max give a man a match and he is warm for a short while. light him on fire and he is warm for the rest of his life. wrote tbone wrote complete bs. if the
Replies:
From : Annonymous
on fri 07 oct 2005 202503 -0400 dandt dwapperson@hotmail.com wrote i have a 1999 dodge ram 4wd 1500. the abs and brake light on the dash will not go out. there doesnt appear to be anything wrong with the brakes. i have checked the front and rear brakes and both are good. the brake fluid is full. i do not see any leaks. why would both lights remain on i even checked the switch under the parking brake to ensure it was not stuck. any suggestions take it for a ride and watch the speedo at low speeds. if it doesnt show anything till you get over 15-20 mph then what joe said - the speed sensor on the rear differential is gone. cost me about $41 and 15 minutes to change one a few weeks ago. greg .
From : tom lawrence
sorry about that its a 1988 ram 1500 pickup. cute little truck but ive had it for about a year and have only driven it 30 days or so. i loved it when it did run. 3.9 smec. i even got a service manual for it. i think i keep it around because its such a well i guess i dont really know except im. never mind....... first time posting on this or any board.. .
From : Annonymous
p.s. and how in the world would a crackhead smoke thru a plug anyway or did i miss sumthin. i have heard tho that they use old hollow radio antennas somehow. didnt you read the story link then yes you missed something. .
From : denny
if this truck ever knocks it is the quietest knock in the world! not sure why but i run 87 and it does not ping. i removed the two valves and de-carboned them. buffed down the seats and did a visual inspection and saw no signs of cracking. lots of carbon on the inside of the intake valve put it all back together and it runs like a charm. knock on wood as too the question of why i did it.. i put on new intake gaskets to fix rough running about three weeks ago. plenum gasket was blown intake was full of oil and i figured i had it nailed. after running it the roughness was still there so i pulled out the spark plugs last owner had just put them in and noticed the #8 was rusty looking. figured it was a head gasket so i pulled it off to take a look. bigger job than i thought it would be but the truck is my hobby so i didnt mind taking a day to do itwife wasnt so pleased let me tell you. any way it is all back together so we shall see how it does over the next few days. -jerry max dodge wrote the pic didnt come through so im not sure what you are looking at. it could be a blown gasket but what other indications did you have of a blown gasket what led you to pull the head for a misfire pic came through here it looked like the intake valve was burnt near plug hole likley from detenation causing errosion in valve seat from leakage caused by the vibration from repeated spark knock. ----------------- www.thesnoman.com .
From : denny
i just went thru this on a gmc. same problem exactly. i just ran it till it got up to op temp & then shot the plug with freon by shooting it down through the plug socket. had it out pdq. i used anti-sieze on all of em goin back in too. rick p.s. and how in the world would a crackhead smoke thru a plug anyway or did i miss sumthin. i have heard tho that they use old hollow radio antennas somehow. i have a dodge raider with a broken spark plug in the engine. does anyone have any suggestions on how to get it out hopefully just the porcelain end is broke and the nut head is still there if so just us your spark plug socket with an extension to get some leverage. if you totally twisted the nut head off leaving the threads you will need to use an easyout tool to remove the rest of the plug. -- coasty remove the spooge to reply .
From : Annonymous
wddodge@woh.rr.com writes ok the compression check was done on a cold engine and it was ok. this will be a bitch but warm the engine up good and retest #7 compression. compare the warm reading to the cold reading and see if they are still in the same range. i got this sneaky feeling a valve is sticking sometimes. is it still necessary to pull all the plugs just to retest #7 while its hot just curious here.. whats the going rate these days for a valve job/top end overhaul on the mopar 5.2 .
From : Annonymous
ok the compression check was done on a cold engine and it was ok. this will be a bitch but warm the engine up good and retest #7 compression. compare the warm reading to the cold reading and see if they are still in the same range. i got this sneaky feeling a valve is sticking sometimes. denny wddodge@woh.rr.com writes refresh my memory a bit does this only happen after the engine is warmed up have you taken a compression check with the engine hot and after cooled off 97 ram cc/slt 5.2l 80800 miles. compression check was only on a cold engine and showed no probs all cyls 130 psi or better cyl 7 was not the highest but was among the higher ones. the dealer sublet replaced the cat and an upstream o2 sensor at approx 65000. the problem seems limited to occurring only at very low rpm below 1000 as in when decelerating to a stop and/or sitting idling at a traffic light. hold your foot on the accelerator pedal to hold idle at or above 1000 and the p0307 wont occur. engine is up to normal op temp when the event occurs. doesnt happen immediately at low idle but will occur sometime within the first minute of an extended idle period. happens idling in gear as well as idling in neutral or park. 52 psi fuel pressure. the problem has been ongoing for 18-20 months but initially we didnt realize it was happening only during decel or at low rpm. also at first flushing the injectors would provide some extended relief usually several months at a time. we replaced the coil plugs wires rotor iac did tsb 18-48-98 and now the cc cleaner. unrelated also replaced battery and air cleaner. even now whenever the code is cleared the truck runs like a scalded dog no drivability issues at all excellent power smooth shifting and no surging. with p0307 stored it is slightly rough idle and some minor noticeable loss of power. .
From : denny
wddodge@woh.rr.com writes and i thought we got lucky for once....... before buying a new injector try moving #7 injector to #5 and run it awhile till the fault comes back. if the fault moves to #5 cyl you know you have a bad injector. if it stays on #7 you saved a hundred bucks and eliminated a possibility. i still have a sneaky feeling a valve is sticking in the guide at times causing the fault. thanks denny. just keep in mind that it only happens at low rpm either decel from 30 mph to a stop and/or else sitting at a light idling in gear. sitting in the shop idling in gear we could see multiple misfires counting up always on #7. raise rpm above 9001000 and the misfires stop. the injector swap is about the last card in my deck. its just been too freakin hot to work on it. it was 100 degrees wednesday 98 yesterday and 97 today. maybe the hurricane will cool things off for a while. rotsa ruck w/rita! after things settle down try one more cc treatment. if you had a lot of carbon one treatment may not have been enough... dont spend any more $$ until you try this or do the injector swap as denny suggested. mike .
From : mike simmons
a little polishing up of the cap and receiver to take away the rust may save some bucks on a new cap. i havent driven mine enough to see if it will come on again but every thing i have read and the mechanic i talked to said is your gas cap off. i am going to replace mine too but wait a while and see if it comes on again. might even leave it off before to see if that forces it on now that i know how to reset it. john gary b wrote john strangely enough i had the same problem with my 01 dakota 3.9l last week. i unhooked the battery and while i was waiting i looked for bad hoses or any other obvious problems and found none. i read somewhere that the gas caps can develop some rust inside a spring and cause problems. they said that the more your vehicle gets wet either from rain or from frequent washing the faster this can happen. i can see what looks like rust coming from the hole in the middle of the cap.my light is still out but i will probably replace the gas cap to be safe. this was the first time the check-engine light has come on since i bought the truck new. gary b. my malfunction indicator light came on in my 01 truck and called the service department and they said no big deal just bring it in when you can. with a little investigation i found that you can check the code by cycling the ingnition from on - acc -- on -- acc -- on and it will display on the odomiter. my code was 455 which is evap evaperoration system leak detection. often caused by something as simple as a gas cap left off. problem is dodge does not seem to offer a user friendly way to reset the code. called a firend that does have access to a code reader that would re-set it but he said just disconnect the battery cables and short them together for a couple of minutes we are talking about the cables not involving the battery in any way!. worked and the stupid litle light is off. might come back on if there is a real problem but would hate a trip to the shop for a false alarm. john .
From : Annonymous
wddodge@woh.rr.com writes and i thought we got lucky for once....... before buying a new injector try moving #7 injector to #5 and run it awhile till the fault comes back. if the fault moves to #5 cyl you know you have a bad injector. if it stays on #7 you saved a hundred bucks and eliminated a possibility. i still have a sneaky feeling a valve is sticking in the guide at times causing the fault. thanks denny. just keep in mind that it only happens at low rpm either decel from 30 mph to a stop and/or else sitting at a light idling in gear. sitting in the shop idling in gear we could see multiple misfires counting up always on #7. raise rpm above 9001000 and the misfires stop. the injector swap is about the last card in my deck. its just been too freakin hot to work on it. it was 100 degrees wednesday 98 yesterday and 97 today. maybe the hurricane will cool things off for a while. refresh my memory a bit does this only happen after the engine is warmed up have you taken a compression check with the engine hot and after cooled off denny .
From : rm
i like the idea of the duct tape...sounds alot better than fishing with a little magnet. i need to do this also. thanks tom. alright id like to know a few thoughts on witch egt gauge to get mounting solutions and where/how to put the sensor on a 05 cummins. for a single gauge the mopar srt-10 a-pillar is a good choice. available from genos garage http//www.genosgarage.com it will replace the stock a-pillar trim with one that has a molded-in gauge holder this is used from the factory on srt-10 rams to hold an oil temp. gauge. it retains your grab handle so theres no downside to using it. to match your trucks gauges either a dipricol although some myself included dont like the big white center cap or an isspro ev-series are the closest match to the factory gauges. i personally run an autometer phantom but thats because i went with a full compliment of autometer gauges. as for mounting the thermocouple you want it in the exhaust manifold where it will do the most good. drill/tap a hole right above the turbo mounting flange in the rear-most of the two passages. this will measure the egts from the rear cylinders which run a little hotter than the rest. start with a cooled-off engine and duct-tape off the exhaust tip then poke a small hole through the duct tape. you want to create some backpressure. next start the engine and while wearing gloves and goggles or a faceshield drill a 21/64 or 11/32 or even 5/16 will work - but 21/64 is the closest to the correct size into the manifold. all the chips will be blown back out at you so watch yourself but better at you than into your turbo. now you can shut the truck off remove the duct tape and let it cool a bit. get a 1/8-27 npt pipe tap and load up the flutes with grease. now carefully tap the hole you drilled. youll probably want to go 5-6 full turns on the tap to get the thread depth correct. turn the tap until it gets a bite of the metal and you feel good resistance to turning it. then back it off 1/4-turn and go forward again. that will break the chip off and embed it in the grease. you want to tap deep enough so that the probe threads in 3 full turns. once thats done just put the probe in and hook up its wiring to the gauge. do not cut the probe wires to length - coil up the excess underneath the dash. for lighting you can tap the larger-of-the-two orange/black wires from the headlamp switch this is the dimmer circuit. for a switched +12v you can tap the red wire from the cigarette lighter. for ground you can use the grounding screw on the lower dash frame behind the knee blocker panel. .
From : roy
i just bought a 1978 factory custom dodge van in mint condition. it has been garaged the whole time. most of the time the first owner drove it 1 -2 times a year. it has 63000.miles on the 400 big block!!! i couldnt leave the 2 bbl on itand changed it to a edelbrock 4 bbl and ed. performer intake. the van always hesitated when you gave it the gas. thats why i really put the 4 bbl on it. now if you give it the gas it still hesitates and if you press the gas peddle too much it will back fire. it idles very smooth and starts the first shot every time. i changed everything! wires plugs vacume controll cap rotor set the timing. now i just start the van it the yard. i dont take it out so there will be no damage to the motor. i need some help. just ask me any question to see if i had replaced it or checked it. it looks like i am going to have to bring it to a shop. thanks russ bad fuel pump restricted fuel supply rusted tank particles blocking the fuel pickup i think its a 36 gallon plastic tank though maybe the sock has crumbled restricting the pickup .
From : Annonymous
craig@metronet.com wrote once more braniac the federal government could do nothing until the n.o. mayor and la governor requested it i already acknowledged that idiot. now please explain how bush doing nothing in wash dc is better than bush doing nothing in crawford image of leadership. is this really so hard to understand i work from home some of the time but when something goes wrong my presence is required if nothing else to show that the problem is being handled. femas headquarters are in washington along with the guy bush appointed to head it michael brown. nothing like face-to-face ass chewing to get the ball rolling eh regarding your link laffinattheleft.blo ... i wont read that trash because by its very address marks it a right wing cover-my-eyes-to-all-of-the-facts-if-they-put-the-republican/conservative-view-in-a-negative-light ... just like i wouldnt read a laffinattheright ... website for the same reason. imo if youre too far to the right ... youre a nazi. too far to the left and youre a communist. both sides are equally mis-informed and dangerous. so where do you stand brainiac craig c. hate to reanimate a dead thread but nazis were socialist last time i checked that was a left leaning ideology.................. .
From : denny
your email made it a couple of days ago. apparently my reply didnt make the trip. sooooo i guess your putor is still stupid. roy send it again i thinks its working now denny on the way!! roy something is a bit off. heres the story. received your email 9/22 @ 617pm responded to it 9/23@ 131 am. received parachute jump 9/23 @ 545am. seems like the email aint happening. ill send ya something right now. roy set ya 4 emails. roy i got it i think. you are using the spoof address for your email. im hitting reply and it isnt working. roy i just changed the fake to the real addy. ill send you another one to see if it works. denny .
From : Annonymous
on thu 22 sep 2005 173015 -0500 greg o goo1959@cableone.net wrote on mon 19 sep 2005 172528 -0700 azwiley1 azwiley1@cox.net wrote i just thought i would share with everyone that i had my funeral err... i mean wedding this weekend. dont let the honeymoon go seven days - it makes the whole week. beekeep i think the line is it makes one week greg no - it makes the hole weak. beekeep never heard it that way. greg .
From : rm
snip i broke of a easy out in a broken head bolt once 30 years ago. i managed to drill it out with a nitrate bit just under the bore size and a very big drill motor and salvage the threads too. easy outs do not always work if the bolt wrung off to begin with because it was seized up. did that in an old chevy luv once...language was heard by all... cricket -- posted using the http//www.autoforumz.com interface at authors request articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards topic url http//www.autoforumz.com/dodge-broken-spark-plug-ftopict138574.html visit topic url to contact author reg. reqd. report abuse http//www.autoforumz.com/eform.phpp=673053 .
From : beekeep
check your front wheel bearings. mine was bad on the passenger side and the vibration felt alot like an out of round tire and a bouncy fromt end. -jerry .
From : tom lawrence
dodge avenger dodge charger daytona dodge magnum dodge srt 10 dodge super8 hemi concept dodge viper dodge viper gts-r dodge viper srt http//www.geocities.com/pors288/dodge.html .
From : john smith
just shooting in the dark but fuel filter fuel lines i spent a saturday a couple weeks back replacing the intake manifold gaskets on my 97 ram 4x4. it was running rough at idle and had a miss lean when running at about 1500-2000 rpm especially under load. i bought the felpro full gasket set removed the manifold removed the plenum plate inside had oil puddle and oil residue so i figure that was the leak cleaned up the surfaces on the manifold and plate used black high-temp rtv on both sides of the fiber plenum gasket and re-torqued the bolts to spec. i then reinstalled the manifold with new manifold-head gaskets cleaned the surfaces of course and torqued to spec. reassembled and started it up and it ran like a new truck you could barely tell that the engine was running at idle and the missing was gone under load. i was one very happy camper. two weeks into driving it the miss came back. so did my sailor-like language it is nearly identical to what it was before my fingernail-blackening escapade of two weeks ago. i got in and re-torqued the manifold as best i could some bolts are covered the ac/alternator mount etc and there was no changedammit. so my question is is it common for the plenum gasket to begin leaking again in such a short time i have worked on cars all my life and have not had this happen before. i was very careful about torque order and tightening everything. is there some secret this would have been a good question to ask before the first replacement - to getting the plenum plate to seal the truck never pings even on 87 octane and oil consumption is not outrageous it has 112k so it does not exactly fit the plenum problem that many have talked about the tsb. just fyi it has new plugs wires rotor cap pvc o2 sensors catalytic converter cat back exhaust system and no codes or mil lit. after putting all that $hit on id kinda like it to run smooth! fwiw the truck has plenty of power and blows no smoke or anything. i am thinking about doing the combustion chamber cleaner to see if that has any affect. other ideas or am i destined to spend another saturday under the hood -jerry .
From : Annonymous
dennis@lassetter. com wrote i just bought a 1996 dodge ram 1500 crew cab pickup with the 5.2 engine and automatic overdrive transmission and wonder what kind of gas milage to expect. thanks for any replys. my 2001 w/5.9l gets about 14 around town 18 highway. i had a 2000 4x4 with the 5.2l and got about the same. .
From : rm
i just bought a 1996 dodge ram 1500 crew cab pickup with the 5.2 engine and automatic overdrive transmission and wonder what kind of gas milage to expect. thanks for any replys. .
From : Annonymous
i spent a saturday a couple weeks back replacing the intake manifold gaskets on my 97 ram 4x4. it was running rough at idle and had a miss lean when running at about 1500-2000 rpm especially under load. i bought the felpro full gasket set removed the manifold removed the plenum plate inside had oil puddle and oil residue so i figure that was the leak cleaned up the surfaces on the manifold and plate used black high-temp rtv on both sides of the fiber plenum gasket and re-torqued the bolts to spec. i then reinstalled the manifold with new manifold-head gaskets cleaned the surfaces of course and torqued to spec. reassembled and started it up and it ran like a new truck you could barely tell that the engine was running at idle and the missing was gone under load. i was one very happy camper. two weeks into driving it the miss came back. so did my sailor-like language it is nearly identical to what it was before my fingernail-blackening escapade of two weeks ago. i got in and re-torqued the manifold as best i could some bolts are covered the ac/alternator mount etc and there was no changedammit. so my question is is it common for the plenum gasket to begin leaking again in such a short time i have worked on cars all my life and have not had this happen before. i was very careful about torque order and tightening everything. is there some secret this would have been a good question to ask before the first replacement - to getting the plenum plate to seal the truck never pings even on 87 octane and oil consumption is not outrageous it has 112k so it does not exactly fit the plenum problem that many have talked about the tsb. just fyi it has new plugs wires rotor cap pvc o2 sensors catalytic converter cat back exhaust system and no codes or mil lit. after putting all that $hit on id kinda like it to run smooth! fwiw the truck has plenty of power and blows no smoke or anything. i am thinking about doing the combustion chamber cleaner to see if that has any affect. other ideas or am i destined to spend another saturday under the hood -jerry .
From : mike simmons
fred wrote hi group! i have a 1999 2wd ctd and using it as a tractor for my 28 foot 8000lb 5th wheel. getting tired of turning on the heater fan in heavy traffic or when backing up the unit to keep the transmission coolant temperature down around 200f. does anyone in the group know of any auxillliary electric fan mods for these trucks tia fred horton makes an electric fan/clutch that works great. it also has a manual switch to turn it on when needed. its very pricy and takes a few hours to install but does a great job i am told. do a google search on horton fan and you will find everything you need to know about the fan. ron if it aint broke fix it until it is .
From : mike simmons
followup day one. i put approx 66 miles on the truck today. no not much but unusual for me since my normal daily commute averages 45 miles round trip. drove over city streets inbound at 6am. not much traffic at that hour but still several traffic lights to sit at 35 in all by actual count. fortunately we made it through at least 2/3 of those on green. sitting at the few traffic lights i did manage to catch the truck felt like it was idling quite smoothly essentially like new. go down 225 to pasadena. they tore the damn freeway up literally and havent been back out for over 2 weeks now to repave it. i almost wrecked my car twice now and have to go the long way bw8 around to work. i have been getting a p0302 error cylinder 2 for 3 years now on my 99 4x4 360. i have replaced everything from the plug to the rotor and it never clears. i had the injectors flushed and it left for 200 miles then came back so i am trying the cc cleaner this weekend. i even replaced the injector no change. was about to pay a damn dealer to fix so i am glad i read about this. .
From : Annonymous
followup day one. i put approx 66 miles on the truck today. no not much but unusual for me since my normal daily commute averages 45 miles round trip. drove over city streets inbound at 6am. not much traffic at that hour but still several traffic lights to sit at 35 in all by actual count. fortunately we made it through at least 2/3 of those on green. sitting at the few traffic lights i did manage to catch the truck felt like it was idling quite smoothly essentially like new. went out at lunch and drove downtown into the heart of the city to meet a swbell fiber tech at another office. an hour later back to my office. drove home tonight via the tollway because city driving at 430 pm in houston is maddening and im already on blood pressure medication. the last 3 miles between the exit ramp and my driveway was over city streets and 4 lights all red of course. back home im most pleased to report the obdii tool reports pass no codes wheeeeeeee!! i have not replaced the plugs yet or changed the oil. project for this weekend. question time the lazy/cheap me wants to know since the current plugs have less than 5000 miles on them is it still recommended or necessary to replace them anyway post cc cleaner application even tho im not currently experiencing any more drivability problems or misfires thanks!! dear lazy/cheap since you have gotten away with the old plugs this long why not try your luck a little longer i would pull out an easy one and take a peek at it though. if it looks good leave em in. mike .
From : max dodge
stuff. jmc just for comparison what was the price per gallon there a year ago mac please remove splinters before emailing . 222 305764 1126707523.441265.220860@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com fuel filter could be the problem. relay is another likely problem. both chap and easy to fix. should be in the power distribution center under the hood near the battery it is there in my ram anway -jerry .
From : news
truck has just had batteries replaced and cable connectors replaced. problem still persists that after glow plug light goes out i engage the starter and the voltage drops to @8 volts and a clicking sound is heard. i can continue to try to start it and it will start after a few times. it started a while back but has gotten progressively worse. pep boys checked the electricals twice and said everything is fine including the starter. what are they missing check the voltage at both batteries while cranking. put the meter probes right on the battery posts not on the pinch terminals. see if they both read the same. report back. al .
From : Annonymous
on tue 13 sep 2005 232017 gmt ramman@dodgecity.cc wrote wddodge@woh.rr.com writes is the mopar stuff any better than barrymens sp chemtool or gumout different chemicals for different applications. the berrymens chem-tool and gumout are carb/throttle body cleaners that do a fine job removing varnish build up and light carbon deposits from the throttle plate area. there are probably a hundred other uses for the stuff because they desolve petrolum so well. the carbon deposits that build up on the back of the intake valves and in the combustion chamber are usually harder than a rock and have to be chipped off or a wire wheel works good on the valves. the combustion chamber cleaner soakes into these deposits and softens them up so when you run the dog shit out it the deposits will break apart and get spit out of the exhaust. and it does seem to work fairly well. denny is right about the carbon build up being hard as a rock. i once helped a friend rebuild a 348 chevy truck motor many years ago. we had a hall seat grinder and valve grinding machine but the valves had to be cleaned up first and with a drill motor and stiff burnishing brush it was still one holy mother of a job to clean up those valves even after soaking them in the solvent tank for a couple hours. we also had something you dont see much anymore... a lapping tool and a tube of lapping compound. does anyone lap-in their valves anymore then number them and match numbers on the seats when doing a top end overhaul used to be a matter of routine.. part of the job. with 3 angle valve jobs you dont lap them any more. with a standard straight grind 1 degree differential lapping is still a good idea. .
From : news
snoman wrote isnt it kinda funny that when brown was forced to resign and make no mistake he was that the only person that bush found that could pass the qualification muster was a democrat with 30 years experiance in fire and emergency service and support. not a bush republican to be found. bush had to swallow hard on that one i bet. just confirms that giving the chance bush picks people for political favors within the party not those really most qualified unless his hand is forced. the next guy to fall will the the director of home land security who still insists that he knew nothing about the storm until after it hit get real his days are numbered and who will be his replacement let me get this straight. bush replaces brown with a dem but you whine that bush picks people for political favors within the party. you might look at bushs full cabinet. its not all rep. .