Broken Spark Plug - Need help fast

From : jbarts

Q: you might be able to use some jb weld and glue a nut on top of the busted piece and get another grip on it with a socket. if not drill and pray the extractor doesnt snap off. craftsman had a left-handed drill and easy-out combo that works but i dont know if its large enough for a spark plug. b .

Replies:

From : grandpa bear

on sat 29 jan 2005 190045 -0700 gekco notme@nospamyahoo.com wrote anyone know a place in phoenix az area one can get dakota differential assemblies rebuilt or used have you tried ebay beekeep .

From : lawrence glickman

i just went out there and tried it again. it worked. there must have been a little ice in the line. it was way below 0 the morning we left. thats scary someone is driving around with washer fluid that freezes in the line ! what the hell does it do on the windshield with the windchill ron .

From : lawrence glickman

i have a dodge 02 quad cab and want to know if anyone has come across a hypertech or superchip programmer. email me...thanks stan@hirise.com .

From : lawrence glickman

anyone know a place in phoenix az area one can get dakota differential assemblies rebuilt or used .

From : jerry

ramman im looking at the site right now and am wondering if the delphi sa10112 fm modulator adapter is what you used also does anyone know if a special antenna adapter will be necessary for the stock am/fm/cd radios in an 05 2500. i seem to remember reading that dodge did not use a standard antenna jack... david lawrence tnloaswpraemnmcien5g@earthlink.net writes 2. is xm better than sirius or are they about the same. roughly similar with some subtle differences in programming. equipment-wise chrysler radios can have a sirius tuner connected directly to them. xm has better smaller more features add-on units. xm is also less expensive. im very happy w/mine and did an antenna install similar to what tom described. i took my install a step further however. i already had an inexpensive pioneer after-market sound system in the truck so after hearing the lack of fidelity in the fm transmitter interface of the xm system i ordered the auxiliary input adapter from crutchfield and plugged it in direct. i cannot begin to describe the magnificent improvement in sound quality. **lots** more bass and treble. .

From : lawrence glickman

1.thinking about getting satellite radio and i was wondering where to mount antenna. i dont want to drill any holes into the truck. 2. is xm better than sirius or are they about the same. .

From : william boyd

daniel j. stern wrote on fri 28 jan 2005 larry moe n curly wrote how well does pb blaster compare better than liquid wrench not nearly as good as kroil and 3418039. thanks especially for the mopar part number. .

From : larry moe n curly

an msn search on kroil shows that it is available at among others www.protoolsdirect.com for $8.45/ 10 oz. aerosol. ive used it... can recommend. crc makes some good stuff too but i cant remember its name. heat then kroil while hot tap tap tap. kroil again tap tap tap e-z out. remember though that heating only the plug will expand it against the head. heat the head as well... remember its iron g joe on fri 28 jan 2005 220233 -0500 daniel j. stern dastern@127.0.0.1 wrote on fri 28 jan 2005 larry moe n curly wrote i use liquid wrench wd is good but the lw is a tad better. both of them are silly kid stuff. kroil and mopar 3418039 are the only two penetrating fluids worth messing with. how well does pb blaster compare better than liquid wrench not nearly as good as kroil and 3418039. .

From : lawrence glickman

1.thinking about getting satellite radio and i was wondering where to mount antenna. i dont want to drill any holes into the truck. several options. i have an xm unit and it has a very small antenna that i stuck on the roof between the middle cab clearance light and the windshield. its a magnetic mount and its very strong. i routed the wire into the groove between the roof and windshield using a bit of silicone to hold it in place. from there i routed the wire underneath the door weatherstripping down the a pillar down the door jamb and through an existing grommet. this brought the wiring behind the dash and from there you can go anywhere you want with it. this method took me all of 10 minutes to do. others mount the antenna towards the back of the cab and remove the 3rd brake light run the wire through there then notch/silicone the trim to allow the wire to pass through. i dont like this because it necessitates dropping the headliner to route the wire. 2. is xm better than sirius or are they about the same. roughly similar with some subtle differences in programming. equipment-wise chrysler radios can have a sirius tuner connected directly to them. xm has better smaller more features add-on units. .

From : joe

on sat 29 jan 2005 222758 -0600 lawrence glickman lawrenceglickman@comcast.net wrote on sun 30 jan 2005 041432 gmt joe jsarti@ma.rr.com wrote nope cant use it on aluminum heads! come on youre going to make me go out into the cold garage to get this can of wonder stuff as seen on tv !!!! fabulous blaster ! hey thats good enough for me. just what i want to do to my car. blast away and not only that it corrects stubborn leaking toilets! chriminee 2 products in 1 can i have saved money! send me a case of this stuff ! lg .

From : joe

on sun 30 jan 2005 041432 gmt joe jsarti@ma.rr.com wrote nope cant use it on aluminum heads! come on youre going to make me go out into the cold garage to get this can of wonder stuff as seen on tv !!!! joe on sat 29 jan 2005 221131 -0600 lawrence glickman lawrenceglickman@comcast.net wrote on sat 29 jan 2005 214538 -0600 william. boyd william@cowboy.net wrote maybe there are more than one type of pb blaster. but reading on the can i am holding it clearly states that it is powerful penetrating catalyst and concentrated copolymer penetrant also revolutionary penetrating magnetic lubricant bill p. ;- oh its now magnetic eh it is attracted to iron but not non-ferrous metals does it line up with the earths magnetic poles which side of the can is south and which part is north or does that get mixed up if you shake the can first what is revolutionary is i bought a can of stuff that has printed on it as seen on tv ;- lg .

From : lawrence glickman

on sat 29 jan 2005 214538 -0600 william. boyd william@cowboy.net wrote maybe there are more than one type of pb blaster. but reading on the can i am holding it clearly states that it is powerful penetrating catalyst and concentrated copolymer penetrant also revolutionary penetrating magnetic lubricant bill p. ;- oh its now magnetic eh it is attracted to iron but not non-ferrous metals does it line up with the earths magnetic poles which side of the can is south and which part is north or does that get mixed up if you shake the can first what is revolutionary is i bought a can of stuff that has printed on it as seen on tv ;- lg .

From : max

on sat 29 jan 2005 014749 -0600 mike simmons mikesim@yhti.net wrote hoppy yeah we do have conversations about other stuff while we are waitin for dodge trucks to break.... you just havent been here long enuf. what do you want another group like rort he..he..he... just a minute and ill go get will lon gc jenny ben and a couple of the others and bring em back and liven things up. seriously this group can be rather lively too....... watch this.......... ahem beam-type torque wrenches suck!! now stand back........... ;^ mike i have to disagree mike.. they work great if they have a k&n sticker on em.. yeah!! well your mother wears combat boots! ;^ mike mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : william boyd

lawrence glickman wrote on sat 29 jan 2005 211049 -0600 william. boyd william@cowboy.net wrote lawrence glickman wrote on 29 jan 2005 150833 -0800 max max340@aol.com wrote pb blaster does very well compared to wd40 incredible difference. compared to the mopar stuff i dont know never used the dealer stuff. castle chemical had some stuff called thrust that worked fairly well also. i bought a can of pb blaster just a couple of days ago and used it on my car where white lithium grease usually goes. what a goopy mess. im certain my hood latch will never stick now if i never do anything to it again ever. compare that with my gunk liquid wrench which goes where no lubricant has ever gone before. of course that liquid wrench penetrating oil has zero surface tension so it wicks itself into everywhere and anywhere instantaneously. which is better cant say for sure but that pb blaster sure makes a mess. lg pb penetrating blaster works ok also as well as gunks liquid wrench but the as some one said previously need to get some real penetrating oil. it is called super-eez by texas refinery corporation trc fort worth tx. a little pricier though $7 per aerosol spray can 13oz. at least that was the cost two years ago. it lasts me a long time by using the other three first in turn wd-40 liquid wrench pb blaster then trc super-eez. then cutting torch. i use the wd-40 all the time on almost everything but hinges usually were getting white moly grease. now i dose them with pb blaster and i think it gets to where it is supposed to be -better- than white moly grease. but it isnt a penetrating oil that is for sure. then again my can of it didnt mention penetrating on it so i guess i just bought the regular version of it. maybe there are more than one type of pb blaster. but reading on the can i am holding it clearly states that it is powerful penetrating catalyst and concentrated copolymer penetrant also revolutionary penetrating magnetic lubricant bill p. ;- imo possibly better than white moly grease maybe better than wd40 really hard to tell at this point. otoh liquid wrench has never let me down yet except in some rare cases where the bolt and nut are so rusted it is hard to tell them apart e.g. exhaust pipes . i couldnt find either the kroil or mopar penetrating oil. lg diyr for the most part until i get in over my head and then it goes to the shop where i get hammered in the wallet. bill p. the shade tree mechanic with most of the leaves missing .

From : jerry

chas hurst wrote chas hurst wrote im a real mechanic what ................. you mean there are fictional mechanics out there.......... jerry well you have lead a sheltered life. hmmmmmmm ................ guess it flew right over. jerry not at all. see the post from joe. .

From : roy

scottremovetoreply scottremovetoreply@datajugglers.com wrote does the 2004 durango have a separate window washer resivoir for the rear window my front one is full and the rear stopped washing on my way back to nj from vermont this week. i couldnt find a place to fill it at the rear when i made a pitstop after it stopped working. thanks for the help! the molded plastic washer fluid reservoir is integral to the engine coolant overflow bottle located on the left end of the air conditioning condenser module in the left front corner of the engine compartment. a single washer fluid reservoir is used for both the front and rear washer systems. the same pump is used for front and rear glenn beasley chrysler tech .

From : roy

looking for a new 05 3500 prolly single rear. ive got about 94k on the 2003 2500hd hemi. its been a good truck and still drives and handles like it was new. my rv burnt up and im getting a bigger one so the gas engine is no longer an option. heading back to bonham texas where i bought the 2500. have heard rumors of 3500s there for around 25k....haaa well see. wish me luck.... -- moparman---remove clothes to reply! --scud coordinates 32.61204 north 96.92993 west-- .

From : chas hurst

on thu 27 jan 2005 045229 gmt tom lawrence tnloaswpraemnmcien5g@earthlink.net wrote what can i do to remove this ive tried my tap and die i could not move it. out of all the plugs it had the most rust. ive wd40 it and will let it sit overnight. is there anything i can buy that will help me take this out im guessing it might have to be drilled out. okay - hold off on the drilling part. first can i assume that the hex portion of the plug snapped off leaving just the threads in the head yes! thats it. if this is the case other people in your situation have had success with the tapered square extractors that sears sells. these look like little miniature washington monuments. you insert this into the plug hole tap it in so the corners bite into the remnant of the spark plug and carefully back the threads out. if its still in place removing the spark plug heat shield grab with pliers man-handle it and rip it out will give you much better access. does only sears sell it how about home depot or advanced auto parts before doing this as another poster noted soak it with penetrating oil. pb blaster should be readily available at your local auto parts store. did any portion of the plug fall into the cylinder if so forget about any of the above - because youre going to have to pull the head and clean the junk out of the cylinder. at that point removing the rest of the plug is easy. thanks! .

From : joe

on fri 28 jan 2005 william. boyd wrote i use liquid wrench wd is good but the lw is a tad better. both of them are silly kid stuff. kroil and mopar 3418039 are the only two penetrating fluids worth messing with. you guys dont be so dead set that your experience of bygone times remain the king of the road. there are many new innovations that may set your long prided selection aside. every day something new comes out some good and some not so good. and you can either waste lots of time and money on unproven doctor mo-jos magic loosen-all with flex fluoride and vitamin e or simply use what works and get on with life. speaking of which go get one. im having a hard time deciding which is more annoying your spam or your participation . .

From : daniel j stern

on sat 29 jan 2005 014749 -0600 mike simmons mikesim@yhti.net wrote seriously this group can be rather lively too....... watch this.......... ahem beam-type torque wrenches suck!! now stand back........... ;^ mike youre an idiot! everyone knows dial-type torque wrenches are the only way to go. oh we agree well never mind then. ;- greg .

From : al

daniel j. stern wrote on wed 26 jan 2005 william. boyd wrote i use liquid wrench wd is good but the lw is a tad better. both of them are silly kid stuff. kroil and mopar 3418039 are the only two penetrating fluids worth messing with. how well does pb blaster compare .

From : william boyd

hoppy yeah we do have conversations about other stuff while we are waitin for dodge trucks to break.... you just havent been here long enuf. what do you want another group like rort he..he..he... just a minute and ill go get will lon gc jenny ben and a couple of the others and bring em back and liven things up. seriously this group can be rather lively too....... watch this.......... ahem beam-type torque wrenches suck!! now stand back........... ;^ mike i have noticed many posts are not reaching publication on this group. could be because people are not having many problems with dodge trucks and that is the way it should be. now we cannot just set around and wait for some one to have a problem and post it. cant we just talk about other things until some one shows up with a problem. then we can hit it with all we have to help a fellow dodge truck owner solve his problem. i routinely venture off to other groups for interests and i would think others do also. but we must realize there are a vast amount of knowledge massed on this group. as i have previously stated i am an old shade tree mechanic with the current technology removing the leaves from my tree. being an aircraft mechanic removed by jet age i might still be able to inject some useful information. just for entertainment here is a true story. gone fishin my way back when i was young and in the military service i always loved the out doors. one time when stationed in altus oklahoma myself and my best friend decided to go fishing. we thought the red river was the best candidate location for an expedition worthy of our efforts. we had become accustom to and adopted a special brand of beer as our favorite but knew it was not readily available down along the river where we were going. not knowing how long we would be gone it was determined that the least thing that we wanted was to run out of beer. this determination leads us to think that we could bring any left over beer back with no problem. packing the bare necessities and some food plenty of food pork and beans were the main stay along with vienna sausages and crackers potato chips frito corn chips sardines crackers and some other long forgotten items. now the six cases of tuborg beer being in long necks as we call it now was not light weight cargo. if you add every thing together it would be a car load for the average automobile. considering we were driving a chevrolet corvair this was a formidable load after adding a blow-up life raft type boat trout line anchors cinder blocks 4 eachand fishing tackle galore. but off we went reaching a predetermined point within hours and well prior to sun set. the drive was hot and tiring due to not having air conditioning in the corvair. the river bank was sandy and smooth so we drove down rather close to the bank. unloaded the blow up boat and aired it up put the trout line anchors bait and lines in it and started down the river wading. lindsey was leading on the bow line some thirty feet ahead of the boat. considering the trek was relatively benign i snuck a ride on the aft end of the pontoon boat of course without the tow boat captain knowing i had hitched a ride. lindsey yelled out when will we know we have arrived at the spot we want i replied you will know by the depth of the river. i had in mind that a good hole in the river bottom would yield the best catch of fish. shortly thereafter lindsey disappeared under the water what a hole!. he bobbed up sputtering; it was too deep to wade any more. i yelled bingo we have arrived at ye old fishing hole! we set out all the lines and baited the hooks. now of course being the good planners that we were we had one case of beer with us and were appropriately applying the intended use of it but its longevity in jeopardy we headed back to the car. arriving in the nick of time and with the remainder of the first case of beer lingering with the re-stoking in mind. knowing we had just a limiter amount of time to get back to the fishing lines and check them for the catch we loaded more bait and another case of beer. lardy me the catch of the night a lot of cat fish. we hauled in several twenty some odd pounds each of beautiful catfish. putting them on the stringer and rebating the hooks all night. then came the departure following retrievals of trout lines and leaving the cinder blocks we loaded up. about then came the problem of the load and river sand. the corvair with the engine in the rear and four cases of beer and an estimated 400 pounds of catfish as well as pork and beans sardines and what have you we were not only overloaded but stuck in the sand. decisions decisions we made one and spent quite a while carrying out the mission what was it drink the beer; eat the beans and stringer the fish in the river. my fishing buddy lindsay nelson and i had an experience that was not rivaled by many alt

From : jbarts

tom lawrence wrote did any portion of the plug fall into the cylinder if so forget about any of the above - because youre going to have to pull the head and clean the junk out of the cylinder. at that point removing the rest of the plug is easy. from his description of the broken section i dont see how junk didnt fall into the cylinder. even if it didnt any easy out or drilling will surly push stuff into the cylinder if all he has to play with is about a half inch of a thin hollow threaded plug section. looks like a head removal job to me................ jerry .

From : daniel j stern

i have noticed many posts are not reaching publication on this group. could be because people are not having many problems with dodge trucks and that is the way it should be. now we cannot just set around and wait for some one to have a problem and post it. cant we just talk about other things until some one shows up with a problem. then we can hit it with all we have to help a fellow dodge truck owner solve his problem. i routinely venture off to other groups for interests and i would think others do also. but we must realize there are a vast amount of knowledge massed on this group. as i have previously stated i am an old shade tree mechanic with the current technology removing the leaves from my tree. being an aircraft mechanic removed by jet age i might still be able to inject some useful information. just for entertainment here is a true story. gone fishin my way back when i was young and in the military service i always loved the out doors. one time when stationed in altus oklahoma myself and my best friend decided to go fishing. we thought the red river was the best candidate location for an expedition worthy of our efforts. we had become accustom to and adopted a special brand of beer as our favorite but knew it was not readily available down along the river where we were going. not knowing how long we would be gone it was determined that the least thing that we wanted was to run out of beer. this determination leads us to think that we could bring any left over beer back with no problem. packing the bare necessities and some food plenty of food pork and beans were the main stay along with vienna sausages and crackers potato chips frito corn chips sardines crackers and some other long forgotten items. now the six cases of tuborg beer being in long necks as we call it now was not light weight cargo. if you add every thing together it would be a car load for the average automobile. considering we were driving a chevrolet corvair this was a formidable load after adding a blow-up life raft type boat trout line anchors cinder blocks 4 eachand fishing tackle galore. but off we went reaching a predetermined point within hours and well prior to sun set. the drive was hot and tiring due to not having air conditioning in the corvair. the river bank was sandy and smooth so we drove down rather close to the bank. unloaded the blow up boat and aired it up put the trout line anchors bait and lines in it and started down the river wading. lindsey was leading on the bow line some thirty feet ahead of the boat. considering the trek was relatively benign i snuck a ride on the aft end of the pontoon boat of course without the tow boat captain knowing i had hitched a ride. lindsey yelled out when will we know we have arrived at the spot we want i replied you will know by the depth of the river. i had in mind that a good hole in the river bottom would yield the best catch of fish. shortly thereafter lindsey disappeared under the water what a hole!. he bobbed up sputtering; it was too deep to wade any more. i yelled bingo we have arrived at ye old fishing hole! we set out all the lines and baited the hooks. now of course being the good planners that we were we had one case of beer with us and were appropriately applying the intended use of it but its longevity in jeopardy we headed back to the car. arriving in the nick of time and with the remainder of the first case of beer lingering with the re-stoking in mind. knowing we had just a limiter amount of time to get back to the fishing lines and check them for the catch we loaded more bait and another case of beer. lardy me the catch of the night a lot of cat fish. we hauled in several twenty some odd pounds each of beautiful catfish. putting them on the stringer and rebating the hooks all night. then came the departure following retrievals of trout lines and leaving the cinder blocks we loaded up. about then came the problem of the load and river sand. the corvair with the engine in the rear and four cases of beer and an estimated 400 pounds of catfish as well as pork and beans sardines and what have you we were not only overloaded but stuck in the sand. decisions decisions we made one and spent quite a while carrying out the mission what was it drink the beer; eat the beans and stringer the fish in the river. my fishing buddy lindsay nelson and i had an experience that was not rivaled by many although we did try. we did make it back with about all the fish and none of the beer would you consider the trip was successful we did only because we made it back. bill p. - .

From : moses horwitz moses

chas hurst wrote im a real mechanic what ................. you mean there are fictional mechanics out there.......... jerry well you have lead a sheltered life. .

From : chas hurst

chas hurst wrote im a real mechanic what ................. you mean there are fictional mechanics out there.......... jerry .

From : larry moe n curly

steel slush@slush.ca writes fuel pump it is.. exact thing happened to me and my 95 ram 1500. damn thing is on top of the tank so be prepared to pay. youll save some $$ if you run out as much of the gas as possible before taking it in. anything in the tank has to be pumped out before they can drop the tank. if you take it in with a full tank do not expect the fuel to be replaced. .

From : steve w

gekco wrote anyone know where exactly the rear axle sensor is located on a 99 dakota 4x4 5.2l oh yeah also its the rear axle speed sensor. on most its a plate with teeth on it right behind the ring gear. the pickup is on top of the center of the rear axle. al .

From : joe

and sawdust in auto transmissions to stop slipping too ill bet. glad you dont work on my cars. shadetree. you would lose that bet of course. on the other hand i dont work cars owned by fools. on thu 27 jan 2005 213242 -0500 chas hurst hurst1@comcast.not wrote im a real mechanic and i always do it. even on racing engines. what part of anti-sieze is an insulator i put anti-sieze on wheel studs and bolts too. chas hurst .

From : daniel j stern

and sawdust in auto transmissions to stop slipping too ill bet. glad you dont work on my cars. shadetree. on thu 27 jan 2005 213242 -0500 chas hurst hurst1@comcast.not wrote im a real mechanic and i always do it. even on racing engines. what part of anti-sieze is an insulator i put anti-sieze on wheel studs and bolts too. chas hurst .

From : jerry

fuel pump it is.. exact thing happened to me and my 95 ram 1500. damn thing is on top of the tank so be prepared to pay. jas on wed 26 jan 2005 095658 -0500 japhar81 japhar81@gmail.com wrote all im having a strange issue with my 95 ram 2500. ive taken it to two shops one couldnt find the problem the other blamed the starter which i replaced and it didnt help. basically there are two issues; first when i try to start the truck the starter spins the engine kicks a bit and doesnt start. if i crank it over a few times turn key let starter run for about a second stop repeat it fires up. when it starts it runs very rough for about 5 seconds then revs up to about 1k and drops back in to a smooth idle at 700. my guess is a sensor somewhere in the start/ignition systems but i cant figure out which. the other issue is at highway speeds the thing stalls out occasionally. basically ill be driving along at about 60 all of a sudden pushing the gas pedal starts doing nothing to my speed. the best i can explain it is that when i tap the gas the rpms actually go down a bit when i let back up the engine revs up for a second then stops. pushing the gas makes it sound like the timing is off knocking/cylinder misfires letting the gas up makes it sound better. at that point when i pull over as the speed approaches 0 so do my rpms and i stall out. if i let the truck sit for 5 minutes or so it starts up again and runs fine. both of these things started yesterday morning and i had a great drive home pulling over every 5 minutes to get the damn thing started again. i put a scan tool on the truck -- no codes none at all. i went to two shops last night one had no clue the other said starter. i replaced it last night it didnt fix anything i didnt expect it to. help!!!!!!! .

From : chas hurst

dan j.s. wrote i am looking for a loaded 2005 1500 slt/larami 4x4 with sunroof i guess a new feature 5.7 hemi 4x4 3.92axel leather navigation although is it as good as toyotas nav bottom line i want every option on this puppy. so far without the navigation with the rebates the best i can do is 28920 u.s. dollars. does that seem fair what is a good web site to give you the invoice etc. this dealer swears he is giving this to me for 500 below invoice. invoice can be looked up at http//www.kbb.com i find it is not always 100% up do date especially with the latest rebates but should be accurate enough to get a close number. $500 below invoice is a terrible deal if thats after rebates. if thats before rebates then thats a great deal. there are rebates of $2000 and 0% financing or $3500. i push for invoice - rebates. usually will find several dealers in town willing to take the deal. so you should end up close to $2000 under invoice or $3500. .

From : chas hurst

from jim m jim date 1/27/2005 502 pm central standard time my problem is with morning starting. in the morning when i go out to the garage i wait for the glow plugs to go out and then i turn it over....it fires up on like 2 cylinders and the eventually on all of them....this happens over the course of about 5 seconds....but during that 5 seconds i am wondering if its going to keep running or leave me at home. the truck runs fantastic and starts great through the day...just happens after sitting for about 12 hrs. something else that came with this problem is the truck now stinks of deisel fuel when it is in the garage...it never stunk before like that. i took it into the dodge dealership...they changed out the fuel filter....did a fuel pressure test and found that the fuel heater located low on the drivers side of the block was faulty. they replaced that and along with an oil change and labour it cost me over 1000 canadian dollars .....15 cents american ........joke it was explained to me that this fuel heater was allowing fuel to slowly drain back to the tank overnight which caused the engine to start roughly in the mornings. i am now faced with the same problem and the same smell. i consider myself mechanically inclined restored my own 77 corvette but am at a loss to deisel engines. they seem like such a damned mystery. any thoughts or suggestions i am home for a few days so have the time to play with this... thanks for your time.........jim this sounds like maybe its the infamous leaky fuel supply lines that are so much fun to change check out item number 2 on this page http//dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/troubleshooting/12vhardstart.html robert .

From : jerry

steve w. wrote btdt wifes 94 had a plug blow apart in it the only thing left was the threaded portion of the plug. it was stuck real good. came out real easy. first step - stick a small rag or towel into the hole and clean up all the oil/penetrant and any other dirt. second - used a very small torch tip to heat the insert almost red hot. i picked up a small oxy/mapp kit since it was smaller than my big torch. third - use an easy out and screw it in as far as possible. the insert may come out while it is hot but i waited till it cooled. clean up the tools and put a new set of delco plugs in. drive away happy. -- steve williams delco plugs in a mopar!!! never!!! jam .

From : aarcuda69062

if this is the case other people in your situation have had success with the tapered square extractors that sears sells. these look like little miniature washington monuments. you insert this into the plug hole tap it in so the corners bite into the remnant of the spark plug and carefully back the threads out. if its still in place removing the spark plug heat shield grab with pliers man-handle it and rip it out will give you much better access. before doing this as another poster noted soak it with penetrating oil. pb blaster should be readily available at your local auto parts store. did any portion of the plug fall into the cylinder if so forget about any of the above - because youre going to have to pull the head and clean the junk out of the cylinder. at that point removing the rest of the plug is easy. big thanks to everyone that helped! i went to my local sears and picked up an nice fat extractor and some other tools. i bought liquid wrench but i didnt use it on the broken plug i will use it on the others. like i said in the other post i sprayed wd40 last night and i let it sit overnight. with the extractor tool i was able to remove the stuck screw part of the plug! i also used a little magnet antenna to see if any metal filings fell it. it was clean. thanks again for all the help! i think this plug was messed up from the get go and nothing i could have done would have prevented what happened. but still from now on i will apply a penetrating oil a few hours before i start any spark plug job just to be sure. .

From : tom lawrence

man youve been getting some dangerous advice. dont use an oxy torch to heat steel to cherry red while its sitting in an aluminum head. by the time the steel heats you will melt the aluminum. period. steel reaches cherry at aout 2300 degrees most aluminum alloys melt at about 1800 degrees. see the problem anti sieze will change the heat range characteristics you are placing an insulator in a joint meant to transfer heat. it wont be critical unless youre racing but it will change. a real mechanic will never do it. im a real mechanic and i always do it. even on racing engines. what part of anti-sieze is an insulator i put anti-sieze on wheel studs and bolts too. chas hurst kroil a little heat not oxy-acetylene and tapping on the plug remains along with a properly sized east-out will do it. repeat the oil/heat/tapping cycle as necessary. be patient. driving ccw with a chisel will work well. use a sharp chisel & make sure youre only driving the plug. dont distort the threads in the head. be very careful on the soft aluminum. joe on 27 jan 2005 125524 -0800 misterbeets misterbeets@pop.netzero.net wrote penetrating oil periodically for 3 days tap-tap-tap with hammer and drift electronics chiller/ice on shell only catch upper edge with chisel and drive around ccw. .

From : daniel j stern

on thu 27 jan 2005 102244 -0500 chas hurst hurst1@comcast.not wrote on thu 27 jan 2005 010424 -0500 chas hurst hurst1@comcast.not wrote theres no need to drill anything with the correct size easy-out. the correct size being 9/16 iirc. you are ass/u/ming that all the porcelain is removed he only has a threaded metal cylinder to remove since all that remains is the threads the entire porcelain can be removed with a flex grabber. oh there is porcelain remaining but it can be removed with a flex grabber. what makes you so sure a flex grabber is a puny little tool for picking up nuts and bolts at the bottom of water tanks not wrestling spark plugs out of their mounts. once the hex is torn off the plug the porcelain comes out quite easily. and since i use a magnetic spark plug socket the porcelain usually remains in the head. why are you argueing about a job you have never done you guys are freaking me out. i have to wait until springtime before i can pull my plug wires and loosen & re-tighten my plugs. i have 3 on bank 1 that are a beatch they are under the intake manifold but if i use a small wrench handle i should be able to get in there and do it by feel. this is only a 2003 vehicle 14000 miles so they shouldnt snap off. but i do want to be certain that they are not becoming frozen in place i will check to be sure there is antiseize on the threads or i will put it on myself. i get the eebee jeebees thinking about a broken plug now. all the things that can go wrong and you know my plugs dont need service for 100000 miles. but i am going to give it to them anyhow. bank 2 is a no-brainter because it is looking you in the face when you raise the engine cowl. bank 1 is the deep mystery because it is covered up with so much stuff. i must say that was the first thing i noticed when i looked under the hood at the dealership. bank 1 is going to be a bitch to get to if i ever have to. lg .

From : jerry

on wed 26 jan 2005 211942 gmt jerry jlrice1655@earthlink.net wrote mac davis wrote we just took a trip to baja and back.... average truck stop price was just at $2 a gallon.... lowest we saw was $1.96 95 and 9/10 at an indian casino near palm springs.. well dont plan any more trips soon ................... damn stuff just jumped 15 cents a gallon from 6 days ago here where im at. wonder what a good horse would cost to feed..... jerry we noticed that this weekend... diesel was at least 5 cents a gal higher on the way back then it was a few days before on the way down.. mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : Annonymous

on wed 26 jan 2005 232033 gmt denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote on sat 22 jan 2005 025301 gmt denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote its a bitch here in calif.... just got back from a week in baja and its in the 50s here during the day... brrrrrrrrrrrrr!!! mac please remove splinters before emailing wimp!!!!!!!! vbg denny yep.. guilty as charged bugs... *g* a couple more years well be living in the sun year round.. mac please remove splinters before emailing .

From : misterbeets

hello i have a 1998 1 ton dually dodge sle loaded to the ass with the older style cummins engine. vehicle history... no modifications what so ever has been done to it. i am the original owner of this vehicle .. the vehicle has only 80 thousand kilometers48 thousand miles . i have had to replace a fuel lift pump since owning and a few front end components. this is my sunday driver and holiday trailer pulling vehicle...it looks like the day i drove it out of the showroom in 98. it sits in my garage. my problem is with morning starting. in the morning when i go out to the garage i wait for the glow plugs to go out and then i turn it over....it fires up on like 2 cylinders and the eventually on all of them....this happens over the course of about 5 seconds....but during that 5 seconds i am wondering if its going to keep running or leave me at home. the truck runs fantastic and starts great through the day...just happens after sitting for about 12 hrs. something else that came with this problem is the truck now stinks of deisel fuel when it is in the garage...it never stunk before like that. i took it into the dodge dealership...they changed out the fuel filter....did a fuel pressure test and found that the fuel heater located low on the drivers side of the block was faulty. they replaced that and along with an oil change and labour it cost me over 1000 canadian dollars ......15 cents american ........joke it was explained to me that this fuel heater was allowing fuel to slowly drain back to the tank overnight which caused the engine to start roughly in the mornings. i am now faced with the same problem and the same smell. i consider myself mechanically inclined restored my own 77 corvette but am at a loss to deisel engines. they seem like such a damned mystery. any thoughts or suggestions i am home for a few days so have the time to play with this... thanks for your time.........jim .

From : dodgehim

on thu 27 jan 2005 anthony wrote both of them are silly kid stuff. kroil and mopar 3418039 are the only two penetrating fluids worth messing with. kroil is the stuff that works. not sure what the mopar is...but probably kroil packaged in a mopar bottle. nope. totally different. different consistency color smell and probably taste. i dont prefer either to the other; theyre best at different things. nothing frees up manifold heat control valves and turbo wastegates and *keeps them free* as well as the mopar fluid for instance not even kroil. .

From : tom lawrence

gekco wrote anyone know where exactly the rear axle sensor is located on a 99 dakota 4x4 5.2l oh yeah also its the rear axle speed sensor. .

From : chas hurst

thanks rick that makes a lot of sense to me now. i will especailly be happy just to see something that looks worn in there so i can replace it. replacing the valve guides would involve removing the heads right john .

From : lawrence glickman

i understand so the air holds the valves up so youre better able to take the springs and retainer off. so then where is the seal as opposed to the spring is it under the spring against the head also will i have to take the rocker arms off to get to the springs i guess you can tell i have very limited experiance working with valves or the internal workings of engines. i know a lot about them from what ive read but i have very limited experience in overhauling an engine. i have though rebuilt the automatic transmission on a d-7 cat dozer but i had help instructions and big parts to work with. you will have to take the rockers off not a big deal. this is not a difficult job just somewhat time consuming. the valve seal is on the valve stem and seals it to the guide once you get the valve cover off it will be obvious. though the old seals may have disintegrated and you may find chunks of them here and there and not on the valve like they should be. one caveat by the time the valve seals fail usually the guides are worn out as well. putting new seals on my reduce oil burning but may not eliminate it. .

From : sarge

on thu 27 jan 2005 gene gardner wrote snip broken spark plug adventure needless to say i used anti-seize paste on the threads although some claim that changes the heat-range value. wow. people will make all kinds of baseless dumb claims to make themselves feel authoritative. .

From : alex rodriguez

try something called kroil if you can find it. we use it at work in a chemical and oil facility. this stuff works. it comes in spray form and liquid. we buy it in both forms. it also comes in bulk 55 gallon drums. we use a regular squirt bottle like 409 comes in to refill as needed. the spray cans are more convenient. sarge .

From : jbarts

jbarts wrote i was changing my plugs and one broke. the body of the plug came out but the part that bottom part screws into the head is still in there. what can i do to remove this buy a diesel. problem solved ... forever. craig c. .

From : daniel j stern

on thu 27 jan 2005 102244 -0500 chas hurst hurst1@comcast.not wrote on thu 27 jan 2005 010424 -0500 chas hurst hurst1@comcast.not wrote theres no need to drill anything with the correct size easy-out. the correct size being 9/16 iirc. you are ass/u/ming that all the porcelain is removed he only has a threaded metal cylinder to remove since all that remains is the threads the entire porcelain can be removed with a flex grabber. oh there is porcelain remaining but it can be removed with a flex grabber. what makes you so sure a flex grabber is a puny little tool for picking up nuts and bolts at the bottom of water tanks not wrestling spark plugs out of their mounts. once the hex is torn off the plug the porcelain comes out quite easily. and since i use a magnetic spark plug socket the porcelain usually remains in the head. why are you argueing about a job you have never done you guys are freaking me out. i have to wait until springtime before i can pull my plug wires and loosen & re-tighten my plugs. i have 3 on bank 1 that are a beatch they are under the intake manifold but if i use a small wrench handle i should be able to get in there and do it by feel. this is only a 2003 vehicle 14000 miles so they shouldnt snap off. but i do want to be certain that they are not becoming frozen in place i will check to be sure there is antiseize on the threads or i will put it on myself. i get the eebee jeebees thinking about a broken plug now. all the things that can go wrong and you know my plugs dont need service for 100000 miles. but i am going to give it to them anyhow. bank 2 is a no-brainter because it is looking you in the face when you raise the engine cowl. bank 1 is the deep mystery because it is covered up with so much stuff. i must say that was the first thing i noticed when i looked under the hood at the dealership. bank 1 is going to be a bitch to get to if i ever have to. lg .

From : gene gardner

heating and quickly cooling usually with water is a time honored tradition with good mechanics to unfreeze stubborn bolts and nuts! for some reason they like to turn tighter first then out after these procedures. soaking first with any of the better penetrating oils is always recommended. wd40 is more of a water displaceer and slight lubricant. the name supposedly comes from water displacement formula # 40 dodgem gene gardner wrote a mechanic twisted off #7 spark plug on my 96 dodge ram 1500 5.7 liter v-8. furthest back on left and obstructed by master cylinder vacuum chamber steering column and several brake-lines. at least it sloped forward instead of rearward. he then sent me on my way to have it dealt with somewhere else. and yes it was a champion plug as has been criticized by some on the web rc12yc..14mm 3/4 reach. i wasnt quick enough to challenge him when he used only a simple ratchet handle and socket which exerts extra side-pressure on the threads and a harmful side-tilting force on the plug. he ovbviously should have used an extension using any method to insure that the extension only exerted pure rotational force on the spark plug. he had advised against using an impact tool on it. in fairness i had removed the other 7 plugs and another one was extremely tight and i had thought it might twist off. i took the last one to the mechanic because i thought he might have some better method. some of my initial ideas for removing the threads failed wasting a period of time ..lucky i didnt need the truck....including a few careless maneuvers that cost me a lot of wasted time and effort...especially because of waiting almost a day every time i used jb-weld epoxy that needed to cure. its possible some of my attempts may have helped a little but here is what finally worked based on a web- posters success using an oxy/acetyln torch for heating. i bought a square-type tapered bolt remover usually called easy-outs sized for 5/16 hole. then bought a can of some kind of freezing spray at radio shack that can chill to -50 degree f. also available at www.mcminone.com envi-ro-tech freezer #20-2200 1-800-543-4330 or 1-877-626-3532. i then went back to the mechanic and he used his oxy/acetlyn torch with a very small tip to heat the the remaining spark plug shell to a cherry- red. i then immediately sprayed it with the cold-spray after which he was able to use the square easy-out to remove the remains of the spark plug. actually we repeated the heating chilling sequence a second time. he admitted that he had never been able to get them out before and had initially sent me away to a machine shop when he first broke it off. i of course got my suggestions from posters on the internet. in hindsight i might try an alternate approach first i bought a left hand thread tap 3/8-16 that can be hand-turned thru the existing hole strongly magnetized to retain the metal particles...the shell spark gap electrode only bent it did not separate and fall into the cylinder. this provides two things...it thins or weakens the shell a little and when a left-hand thread bolt is screwed in it bottoms out counter-clockwise after which force is now applied to turning the plug shell out....without any outward pressure to the sides such as a tapered square easy-out must have heating cherry red as before. unfortunately i only thought of this after i had earlier run a right-hand tap through...and as i suspected the threads were too weak to avoid stripping out. i was only able to buy a grade 5 bolt strength left-hand so a judgement would have to be made whether it would twist off. of course we had the same worry with the tapered square easy-out. ...so its possible my earlier misadventure cutting the threads did help in the final success. needless to say i used anti-seize paste on the threads although some claim that changes the heat-range value. get your name as your email address. includes spam protection 1gb storage no ads and more only $1.99/ month - visit http//www.mysite.com/name today! .

From : jbarts

on thu 27 jan 2005 000752 -0500 daniel j. stern dastern@127.0.0.1 wrote on wed 26 jan 2005 jbarts wrote 1996 dodge ram 2500 5.9l engine i was changing my plugs and one broke. the body of the plug came out but the part that bottom part screws into the head is still in there. assuming you were using a spark plug socket and not just a regular deep socket that happened to fit we see here the downside of 1 ultra-extended spark plug intervals 2 champion spark plugs what can i do to remove this ive tried my tap and die i could not move it. out of all the plugs it had the most rust. ive wd40 it and will let it sit overnight. wd40 is not really very good for much of anything and its utterly worthless as a penetrant. first choice in penetrants is kroil but youre not likely to find it locally so go get a can of mopar penetrating fluid p/n 4318039 from your dealer. ive never figured out what they put in this stuff and it has a truly bizarre smell but it works very well. im not quite clear on reading your description where the plug broke off. im assuming it sheared right off right *below* the hex section are you left with a solid plug or with a ring of metal the ring of metal is stuck. sorry this is the first time this has ever happened to me and i wasnt sure how to describe it. one thing i noticed as i took other plugs out is that the other ones looked newer the part of the stuck plug that borke off is very rusted. i bought this truck 6 months ago and now i get the feeling the previous owner tried to change the plugs and gave up on the stuck one that i ended up breaking. thanks for your reply and help. .

From : jbarts

on thu 27 jan 2005 010424 -0500 chas hurst hurst1@comcast.not wrote theres no need to drill anything with the correct size easy-out. the correct size being 9/16 iirc. you are ass/u/ming that all the porcelain is removed he only has a threaded metal cylinder to remove since all that remains is the threads the entire porcelain can be removed with a flex grabber. oh there is porcelain remaining but it can be removed with a flex grabber. what makes you so sure a flex grabber is a puny little tool for picking up nuts and bolts at the bottom of water tanks not wrestling spark plugs out of their mounts. once the hex is torn off the plug the porcelain comes out quite easily. and since i use a magnetic spark plug socket the porcelain usually remains in the head. why are you argueing about a job you have never done my first choice would be a beer. but the easy-out is a close second. have you ever really extracted a broken plug nope. i dont break spark plugs off in their holes. then again i dont work on em 5 to 7 days/week either. i agree with you on one thing the easy-out is 2nd choice when compared to beer when it comes to a penetrating lubricant. lg .

From : bob

i think you mean the plug broke in half where the threads are left in the block along with the bottom part yes! thats it. this is time for real penetrating oil not wd40 which is not a real penetrating oil. im going to get some this morning. use real penetrating oil. everybody owns at least some. then let it soak go out and give it a tap every now and then with a hammer and a screwdriver and add more real penetrating oil. repeat as often as necessary until youve loosened the corrosion enough to get it out of the spark plug hole. lg thank you. .

From : henry

on thu 27 jan 2005 104031 -0400 high sierra please.reply.to.ng.only@isp.com wrote jbarts wrote 1996 dodge ram 2500 5.9l engine i was changing my plugs and one broke. the body of the plug came out but the part that bottom part screws into the head is still in there. what can i do to remove this ive tried my tap and die i could not move it. out of all the plugs it had the most rust. ive wd40 it and will let it sit overnight. is there anything i can buy that will help me take this out im guessing it might have to be drilled out. if i have to take it to a shop what will something like this cost to fix please reply here and if you need more info just ask ill be checking the thread hourly! thanks! i wonder why jbarts hasnt answered any of your questions. after all he said he would check every hour. hey! ive been here and reading! im going to run out and buy some penetrating oil and try some of the solutions written. .

From : high sierra

jbarts wrote 1996 dodge ram 2500 5.9l engine i was changing my plugs and one broke. the body of the plug came out but the part that bottom part screws into the head is still in there. what can i do to remove this ive tried my tap and die i could not move it. out of all the plugs it had the most rust. ive wd40 it and will let it sit overnight. is there anything i can buy that will help me take this out im guessing it might have to be drilled out. if i have to take it to a shop what will something like this cost to fix please reply here and if you need more info just ask ill be checking the thread hourly! thanks! i wonder why jbarts hasnt answered any of your questions. after all he said he would check every hour. kinda wondered that myself. .

From : henry

by the way there are two important processes that should be considered with aluminum heads and steel spark plug threads. 1. the different rate and extent of thermal expansion heating and cooling might break the corrosion bond 2. electrolysis between dissimilar metals causes corrosion between the surfaces. there are compounds that should be applied to the plug threads to reduce the effects of electrolysis. henry i agree head removal is the propper way. i ran into this before with an aluminium head its just not worth it to drill the core with head in place. if all the ducks are lined up parts tools etc its an easy job. henry if getting stuff in the cylinder is a big fear why not take the head off you lose a little bit of leverage that way but at least you could get at it from both sides..... just an idea im no expert. .

From : nate nagel

jbarts wrote 1996 dodge ram 2500 5.9l engine i was changing my plugs and one broke. the body of the plug came out but the part that bottom part screws into the head is still in there. what can i do to remove this ive tried my tap and die i could not move it. out of all the plugs it had the most rust. ive wd40 it and will let it sit overnight. is there anything i can buy that will help me take this out im guessing it might have to be drilled out. if i have to take it to a shop what will something like this cost to fix please reply here and if you need more info just ask ill be checking the thread hourly! thanks! i wonder why jbarts hasnt answered any of your questions. after all he said he would check every hour. .

From : tokay

i agree head removal is the propper way. i ran into this before with an aluminium head its just not worth it to drill the core with head in place. if all the ducks are lined up parts tools etc its an easy job. henry if getting stuff in the cylinder is a big fear why not take the head off you lose a little bit of leverage that way but at least you could get at it from both sides..... just an idea im no expert. .

From : anthony

daniel j. stern wrote on wed 26 jan 2005 william. boyd wrote i use liquid wrench wd is good but the lw is a tad better. both of them are silly kid stuff. kroil and mopar 3418039 are the only two penetrating fluids worth messing with. i agree with you on the kroil never tried the mopar stuff but ive also been mightily impressed by wuerth rost off also not likely to find locally but easy if you mail order parts for german cars and had decent luck with pb blaster available in most chain auto parts stores now. nate -- replace fly with com to reply. http//home.comcast.net/njnagel .

From : daniel j stern

if getting stuff in the cylinder is a big fear why not take the head off you lose a little bit of leverage that way but at least you could get at it from both sides..... just an idea im no expert. .

From : lawrence glickman

daniel j. stern dastern@127.0.0.1 wrote in on wed 26 jan 2005 william. boyd wrote i use liquid wrench wd is good but the lw is a tad better. both of them are silly kid stuff. kroil and mopar 3418039 are the only two penetrating fluids worth messing with. kroil is the stuff that works. not sure what the mopar is...but probably kroil packaged in a mopar bottle. in just about any industrial setting you will find that kroil is the penetrating oil of choice. it works really well as a cleaning agent also lifts that grime right up. -- anthony you cant idiot proof anything....every time you try they just make better idiots. remove sp to reply via email .

From : chas hurst

on wed 26 jan 2005 jbarts wrote 1996 dodge ram 2500 5.9l engine i was changing my plugs and one broke. the body of the plug came out but the part that bottom part screws into the head is still in there. assuming you were using a spark plug socket and not just a regular deep socket that happened to fit we see here the downside of 1 ultra-extended spark plug intervals 2 champion spark plugs what can i do to remove this ive tried my tap and die i could not move it. out of all the plugs it had the most rust. ive wd40 it and will let it sit overnight. wd40 is not really very good for much of anything and its utterly worthless as a penetrant. first choice in penetrants is kroil but youre not likely to find it locally so go get a can of mopar penetrating fluid p/n 4318039 from your dealer. ive never figured out what they put in this stuff and it has a truly bizarre smell but it works very well. im not quite clear on reading your description where the plug broke off. im assuming it sheared right off right *below* the hex section are you left with a solid plug or with a ring of metal .

From : lawrence glickman

on thu 27 jan 2005 010424 -0500 chas hurst hurst1@comcast.not wrote theres no need to drill anything with the correct size easy-out. the correct size being 9/16 iirc. you are ass/u/ming that all the porcelain is removed he only has a threaded metal cylinder to remove since all that remains is the threads the entire porcelain can be removed with a flex grabber. oh there is porcelain remaining but it can be removed with a flex grabber. what makes you so sure a flex grabber is a puny little tool for picking up nuts and bolts at the bottom of water tanks not wrestling spark plugs out of their mounts. my first choice would be a beer. but the easy-out is a close second. have you ever really extracted a broken plug nope. i dont break spark plugs off in their holes. then again i dont work on em 5 to 7 days/week either. i agree with you on one thing the easy-out is 2nd choice when compared to beer when it comes to a penetrating lubricant. lg .

From : lawrence glickman

shift and other times it takes a minute or two. is there anything that i can check as a layman before taking it to the shop thanks howard. not really... sounds like a sticking solenoid. this is one for the dealer. .

From : daniel j stern

on thu 27 jan 2005 000855 -0500 daniel j. stern dastern@127.0.0.1 wrote on wed 26 jan 2005 william. boyd wrote i use liquid wrench wd is good but the lw is a tad better. both of them are silly kid stuff. kroil and mopar 3418039 are the only two penetrating fluids worth messing with. the nut part of the plug if i read the ops post correctly is gone leaving only the threaded bottom portion of the plug in the hole. with the nut gone on a dead-cold engine block there shouldnt be much holding the threads in place except for corrosion. i guess the ez-out idea is a good one but i would use that as a last resort since you have to drill into the lower part of the plug and that is almost guaranteed to place particles of plug in the cylinder. i would try a screwdriver blade gently hammered into the porcelain so as not to break it but create a slot for the screwdriver head and try to work -that-. ez out would be final solution not first choice. theres no need to drill anything with the correct size easy-out. the correct size being 9/16 iirc. since all that remains is the threads the entire porcelain can be removed with a flex grabber. my first choice would be a beer. but the easy-out is a close second. have you ever really extracted a broken plug and use compressed air to clean out everything before trying to unscrew base of plug. i dont think i would go to the trouble of pulling the head unless something like the porcelain bottom with the electrode fell into the cylinder. of course maybe ops engine is -easy- to work on. in that case sure pull the head. if it is bank 2 on my engine it is very simple but put a new head gasket on there for bank 2 before replacing head. lg .

From : joe

on thu 27 jan 2005 000855 -0500 daniel j. stern dastern@127.0.0.1 wrote on wed 26 jan 2005 william. boyd wrote i use liquid wrench wd is good but the lw is a tad better. both of them are silly kid stuff. kroil and mopar 3418039 are the only two penetrating fluids worth messing with. the nut part of the plug if i read the ops post correctly is gone leaving only the threaded bottom portion of the plug in the hole. with the nut gone on a dead-cold engine block there shouldnt be much holding the threads in place except for corrosion. i guess the ez-out idea is a good one but i would use that as a last resort since you have to drill into the lower part of the plug and that is almost guaranteed to place particles of plug in the cylinder. i would try a screwdriver blade gently hammered into the porcelain so as not to break it but create a slot for the screwdriver head and try to work -that-. ez out would be final solution not first choice. and use compressed air to clean out everything before trying to unscrew base of plug. i dont think i would go to the trouble of pulling the head unless something like the porcelain bottom with the electrode fell into the cylinder. of course maybe ops engine is -easy- to work on. in that case sure pull the head. if it is bank 2 on my engine it is very simple but put a new head gasket on there for bank 2 before replacing head. lg .

From : tom lawrence

dont try this trick on aluminum heads!!! a chisel will cost you a new head. pay particular attention to not getting chips in the cylinder that will destroy your engine. best to remove the head. joe on wed 26 jan 2005 214306 -0500 sdlomi2 sdlomi2@spamyahoo.com wrote thanks! first try another plug to ensure its not too hard to saw. if it is indeed sawable buy a good blade to do the work. if it comes down to it grind down a hacksaw blades width to access the hole in the middle of the plug. wrap a rag around the other end for a handle saw out to the head-threads do another section about 1/8-1/4-inch away remove the sawed sectionchisel then it should have enough freedom to be removed. hope u dont have to revert to this--but it may work if all else fails. s .

From : chas hurst

what can i do to remove this ive tried my tap and die i could not move it. out of all the plugs it had the most rust. ive wd40 it and will let it sit overnight. is there anything i can buy that will help me take this out im guessing it might have to be drilled out. okay - hold off on the drilling part. first can i assume that the hex portion of the plug snapped off leaving just the threads in the head if this is the case other people in your situation have had success with the tapered square extractors that sears sells. these look like little miniature washington monuments. you insert this into the plug hole tap it in so the corners bite into the remnant of the spark plug and carefully back the threads out. if its still in place removing the spark plug heat shield grab with pliers man-handle it and rip it out will give you much better access. before doing this as another poster noted soak it with penetrating oil. pb blaster should be readily available at your local auto parts store. did any portion of the plug fall into the cylinder if so forget about any of the above - because youre going to have to pull the head and clean the junk out of the cylinder. at that point removing the rest of the plug is easy. .

From : phyloe

on wed 26 jan 2005 222351 -0600 phyloe shlshl@sctelcom.net wrote so far i have not seen anyone suggest heat. often applying heat as with a torch will make the metal expand and subsequent cooling will break the metals apart. of course you need access to a real torch. you could possibly drive the vehicle to somewhere there is such equipment. after you get the threads out you have to wonder about what may have fallen into the cylinder how you can check and how you can get any foreign material out of there phyloe what i would do i have a small vacuum cleaner it is the carry around portable thing but it plugs into the wall for power. i would use duct tape and put a hose on the nozzle so it would fit inside the cylinder through the spark plug hose and i would vacuum the cylinder keeping in mind that if it is a slant engine parts will fall toward the center of the engine. you really need a bore scope to see inside and nobody i know has the $ to afford one of those. short of that i would do the above pulling out the hose often to see if something is attached to it that is too large to go through the tube. lg 1996 dodge ram 2500 5.9l engine i was changing my plugs and one broke. the body of the plug came out but the part that bottom part screws into the head is still in there. what can i do to remove this ive tried my tap and die i could not move it. out of all the plugs it had the most rust. ive wd40 it and will let it sit overnight. is there anything i can buy that will help me take this out im guessing it might have to be drilled out. if i have to take it to a shop what will something like this cost to fix please reply here and if you need more info just ask ill be checking the thread hourly! thanks! .

From : ed

with a helicoil repair kit. bill p. did anyone say use and easy out yet its a reversed threaded little gizmo that can get in the center. you use a wrench on it and works like a charm. ive used an easy-out a number of times. penetrating oil might get the broken part a bit loose but you still need to turn it . i have never used penetrating oil for this problem and have had excellent results with an easy-out. . 222 296703 35r8mlf4q831cu1@individual.net so far i have not seen anyone suggest heat. often applying heat as with a torch will make the metal expand and subsequent cooling will break the metals apart. of course you need access to a real torch. you could possibly drive the vehicle to somewhere there is such equipment. after you get the threads out you have to wonder about what may have fallen into the cylinder how you can check and how you can get any foreign material out of there phyloe 1996 dodge ram 2500 5.9l engine i was changing my plugs and one broke. the body of the plug came out but the part that bottom part screws into the head is still in there. what can i do to remove this ive tried my tap and die i could not move it. out of all the plugs it had the most rust. ive wd40 it and will let it sit overnight. is there anything i can buy that will help me take this out im guessing it might have to be drilled out. if i have to take it to a shop what will something like this cost to fix please reply here and if you need more info just ask ill be checking the thread hourly! thanks! .

From : william boyd

william. boyd wrote jbarts wrote 1996 dodge ram 2500 5.9l engine i was changing my plugs and one broke. the body of the plug came out but the part that bottom part screws into the head is still in there. what can i do to remove this ive tried my tap and die i could not move it. out of all the plugs it had the most rust. ive wd40 it and will let it sit overnight. is there anything i can buy that will help me take this out im guessing it might have to be drilled out. if i have to take it to a shop what will something like this cost to fix please reply here and if you need more info just ask ill be checking the thread hourly! thanks! i use liquid wrench wd is good but the lw is a tad better. you should use a six sided socket rather than 12. is the engine good and cold or was it still a little worm when you started to pull the plugs let it soak all night and you can get a lot more torque on it with the impact socket six sided. before you go to extremes and try to drill it out try a couple of good raps with a hammer and an old 3/4 inch bolt as a punch then put the impact socket back on it. if all that fails they can drill it out and put new threads in the hole with a helicoil repair kit. bill p. did anyone say use and easy out yet its a reversed threaded little gizmo that can get in the center. you use a wrench on it and works like a charm. .

From : sdlomi2

one cant drive when one cant see. nope deals off you have to drive to watch the oil pressure gauge because my eyes would be red from my beer ok...but i have to go and you will have to be or provide a designated driver as i like my beer. you probably have a faulty oil sending unit have the oil pressure tested and replace the sending unit i would bet a good steak dinner that will fix iti will send my address later where to send the steak dinner certificate i was the oil gauge dropping power. it looks as if it goes off and then back on again. oil level ok when the check gauge lamp came on did you happen to check which gauge it was oil pressure gauge dropping.volt gauge at min or mased out that is why they added that lamp cause alot of people dont watch these devices as they are operating the vehicle now when i stop at a light the check gauge light comes on for a sec or two. it seems to go away when i start to roll again. loose wire bad contact behind dash anyone have any experience with this before .

From : b peg

jbarts wrote 1996 dodge ram 2500 5.9l engine i was changing my plugs and one broke. the body of the plug came out but the part that bottom part screws into the head is still in there. what can i do to remove this ive tried my tap and die i could not move it. out of all the plugs it had the most rust. ive wd40 it and will let it sit overnight. is there anything i can buy that will help me take this out im guessing it might have to be drilled out. if i have to take it to a shop what will something like this cost to fix please reply here and if you need more info just ask ill be checking the thread hourly! thanks! i use liquid wrench wd is good but the lw is a tad better. you should use a six sided socket rather than 12. is the engine good and cold or was it still a little worm when you started to pull the plugs let it soak all night and you can get a lot more torque on it with the impact socket six sided. before you go to extremes and try to drill it out try a couple of good raps with a hammer and an old 3/4 inch bolt as a punch then put the impact socket back on it. if all that fails they can drill it out and put new threads in the hole with a helicoil repair kit. bill p. .

From : jessie herrera

ronbc wrote brianke wrote does anybody know why my 98 ram 5.9l is hissing when i accelerate i have a 2001 5.9 ram and it does the same thing.im not exactly sure what it is but i think it might be the fuel injectors.i was told to make sure i keep them clean on these trucks because they get real dirty.the guy i talked to had a dakota and he never cleaned the fuel system and he had to replace all his injectors. ronnie he said hissing not missing. ;- jeff .

From : fred aston

my new truck is getting only about 15 mpg. my dads 1997 averages 20 mpg or better. my truck only has about 11000 miles on it. is my fuel mileage average or just too early to tell while the engine breaks in .

From : eric f

kgharris kgharris@nospam.com wrote in check engine light has been on for about 2 months got it checked out when it first came on at autozone. they said the code reflected a small minor fuel system leak perhaps a faulty gas cap replaced and reset check engine light or a vacuum leak. well the engine check light is back on... any ideas on where to start thanks kevin i would replace the gas cap first off lol think its a bad cap wick .

From : mac davis

does the 2004 durango have a separate window washer resivoir for the rear window my front one is full and the rear stopped washing on my way back to nj from vermont this week. i couldnt find a place to fill it at the rear when i made a pitstop after it stopped working. thanks for the help! .

From : chas hurst

on fri 28 jan 2005 joe wrote anti sieze will change the heat range characteristics you are placing an insulator in a joint meant to transfer heat. blah blah blahbitty blah blah bs bs bs. .

From : joe

gekco wrote anyone know where exactly the rear axle sensor is located on a 99 dakota 4x4 5.2l ok guys thanks for your help i will check it out. .

From : lawrence glickman

1996 dodge ram 2500 5.9l engine i was changing my plugs and one broke. the body of the plug came out but the part that bottom part screws into the head is still in there. what can i do to remove this ive tried my tap and die i could not move it. out of all the plugs it had the most rust. ive wd40 it and will let it sit overnight. is there anything i can buy that will help me take this out im guessing it might have to be drilled out. if i have to take it to a shop what will something like this cost to fix please reply here and if you need more info just ask ill be checking the thread hourly! thanks! first try another plug to ensure its not too hard to saw. if it is indeed sawable buy a good blade to do the work. if it comes down to it grind down a hacksaw blades width to access the hole in the middle of the plug. wrap a rag around the other end for a handle saw out to the head-threads do another section about 1/8-1/4-inch away remove the sawed sectionchisel then it should have enough freedom to be removed. hope u dont have to revert to this--but it may work if all else fails. s .

From : nick hull

i have a 96 dakota v6 3.9 that i bought used. the gas mileage in town is 12-13 mpg. after checking all the other possible causes and then looking at the hitch it came with and the boat harbor sticker on the window i am guessing that it might have a towing rear end gear setup that is responsible for the low mileage. i figured that i could put a chalk mark on the drive shaft and on the tire jack it up and get an idea of the gear set in the truck. i thought that if the drive shaft turned four times for one rotation of the wheel it meant i had a gear set roughly 4.0. apparently i am barking up the wrong tree. it did not work out that way. so how do i determine the ratio of the gear installed. i do not believe that the original gears are still in it. oldtimer .