Brakes pull to right 98 4 X 4

From : qball1936

Q: tbone wrote iirc the problem with using high octane fuel stems from the computer. it seems that the longer burn time of higher octane fuel fools the computer into thinking that the engine is running rich and causes it to lean the engine out. running lean itself is not a particularly good thing for the engine and will be reflected in a loss of power not to mention heat which could cause detonation another bad thing for the engine. this could not be further from the truth and does not warrant further comment. -- posted using the http//www.autoforumz.com interface at authors request articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards topic url http//www.autoforumz.com/dodge-high-octane-damage-engine-ftopict123488.html visit topic url to contact author reg. reqd. report abuse http//www.autoforumz.com/eform.phpp=601993 .

Replies:

From : nosey

i have an 04 dually with 4.10s and i would love to swap to 3.55s. the new 6 speed has plenty plenty low gear and the final with 3.55s should be worth a solid 2 mpg. steve 4.10s were available in 02 regardless of tranny... the 3.73 didnt become available until 03 with the new body style good info thanks. why would you run 3.54s on a dually set up for towing several i looked at online had 5th wheels/goosenecks with the 3.54s. you trying to build your own fleet heh something like that. im getting ready to launch a business and need a dually. mainly it will replace the 01.5. -- nathan w. collier http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com .

From : tom lawrence

tom lawrence wrote my 99 2500 has that spacer ring on the right side too. whats the purpose of that to move the wheel out a bit and to counteract a tendency to pull while braking. i ran my 2500 both with and without that spacer and i wasnt able to feel any significant difference either way. thanks. i always wondered what it was there for. .

From : nosey

not wanting to run in o/d the cummins has the guts to pull with the higher gears - thats not much of a problem. i could see it on flat ground. my 2500 has the 3.54s and it does great but ive never had it loaded down like my 3500 which has 3.73 and more power. -- nathan w. collier http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com .

From : tom lawrence

lol.....i used to call those hills mountains too once upon a time. - about six months ago wasnt it .

From : kg

nathan w. collier wrote the receiver hitch on mine is rated at 5000# but also 10000# with a weight distributing hitch. if you read the fine print in your owners manual you may find the same thing. hi bob now isnt that what i said in my original post - any idea if its really only capable of 5000 pounds on a standard hitch like in the picture from the link in my original thread i didnt see the part about the weight distributing hitch. i dont knnow if yours is the same as mine but i suspect it is. generally speaking your truck is capable of towing 13k# but only when properly equipped. ive never seen a simple recieiver hitch rated that high. of course ive never needed to tow more than 10k# either. i believe you need a 5th wheel hitch to pull max load. -- ..bob 1997 hd fxdwg - turbocharged! 2001 dodge dakota qc 5.9/4x4/3.92 1966 mustang coupe - daily driver 1966 ffr cobra - ongoing project .

From : tom lawrence

i had a 98 2500hd 4x4 xcab that pulled to the left. shims were added to the right side to balance the pull. or it was vice versa. the truck was several weeks if that old. the dealer performed this under warranty. kevin the right front and not the left from wear. even the metal brake lines have been changed. something strange is going on here. okay - if youve gone after all the typical stuff its time to get a little creative. first id see about getting a couple of pressure gauges and hook them up. you can either get a gauge and adapter that will replace the bleeder screw or a set of pads that replace the brake pads and get squeezed by the caliper. the ones that screw into the bleeder are better imo. check for equal brake pressure when the brakes are applied - both with the engine off and with the engine running. also check to make sure both gauges drop back to zero when the brakes are released. if they dont check out youve obviously got problems upstream - possibly the master cylinder. if the pressures are equal then youve got some kind of mechanical binding happening either on the left side during apply or on the right side during the return. im assuming youve already checked/greased the caliper slide bolts but id check again. maybe remove the brake pads re-install the caliper and make sure you can manually slide it back and forth without anything hanging up. again check both sides. .