Brake Rotors Question
From : fred
Q: nope it wont hurt. -- coasty semper paratus always ready | if it wont cause any harm ill just go ahead and add some anyway just to | be safe since im not sure if it is a posi. | .
Replies:
From : no spam for me
my first comment here would be to advise you that wd40 is not a lubricant. wd40 will dry out and in fact will even displace and dilute any existing lubricant causing it to dry out. if you need a good solvent wd40 is it. its also great for quieting staticky volume controls and telephone cord detanglers. however wd40 will eventually ruin rubber seals and will damage most fishing reels and firearms. you shouldnt be having problems with brand new mirrors. the problems youre having w/your new mirrors makes me want to ask where you bought them and if it maybe says made in china somewhere on the box writes hi all! bought and installed the 2001/2002 tow mirrors for my 99 2500 ctd. went to clean them the other day and found the glass falling off on both mirrors...both the convex and flat pieces. mirrors also hard as heck to position properly. looked like they were only being held on with double sided tape...which had dried out...hence glass on mirrors loose and falling off. sprayed the innards with wd40 to free them up..helped some. thought about gluing the glass back on but then realized that this might not be a good idea...positioning mechanism likely to bind again and ill need to get the glass off to lube the mechanism again. also wondering if anyone knows if these mirrors were glued on originally or just being held with the double sided tape tia fred .
From : tbone
fat tail housing about 8 or long and skinny about 4 if fat you have overdrive is there a bulge on the right side of the pan rail right where the dipstick goes in yes = a727 / 518 no = a904 / 500 i have a 1991 dodge dakota with an automatic transmission. there are no marking on the transmission that i can find. how can i determine which transmission i have .
From : beekeep
on thu 26 may 2005 174949 -0600 nathan w. collier montanajeeper@aol.com wrote when set up properly you dont have to think about the controller nate.. it does the thinking for you when you step on the brake pedal. my concern is readjusting as the load changes. id like to be able to send my wife on pickup runs and trust that shell be able to readjust the controller based on the weight of each particular load. i suppose this is where the strength of the brake smart system would come in. ill probably change over to their system if they ever get caught up on their production/shipping. how much weight would the average load that she picked up weigh my experience is all travel trailers so no real load change but with the drawtite we had to change the settings when we got off the freeway and got into traffic or they were too touchy and kind of lurched forward when you took your foot off the brake.. the adjustment prodigy has never been changed no matter what traffic is like and whether were empty or helping friends move.. stops just fine... i wish the ram stopped that well without the trailer mac please remove splinters before emailing .
From : nosey
tbone wrote tbone wrote if youve got a 3.551 axle youre lugging the hell out of your truck. trust me i know where youre at - i got a 99 1500 2wd on 265s 225 stock. i get better fuel economy in 4th gear than 5th if im under 70 mph average. it sure drives better on the bigger rubber tho. in my case i should regear the truck and tuck some decent springs under it too its killing my back... your choices are a replace the ring and pinion gears in your axle for a ratio more in tune for the rubber you want to swing... with that much rubber id personally go with 4.10s for sure im assuming a 318 or 360... aproximately 10% less stress on the transmission/gearbox/engine as 3.92 and 20% than 3.55 correct me if my math is off i calculated this a few years ago... i was quoted about $650 for one axle rear axle parts and labor. actual parts cost appears to be about $300/axle to do the job right its a 99 you definetly want to go ahead and replace the bearings chrysler has a reputation for using junk just remember that if you go the regearing rout you will need to do it to both axles. as for the transmission when was the last time you changed its fluid i would suggest an aux trans cooler as well. shouldnt there be an aux tranny cooler on his truck anyway. i dont know some do and others dont. i think that it has to do with the options ordered. either way if the trans is getting that hot then what is there is simply not enough. ok thanks. reason i mentioned that is mine has the tranny cooler between rad and ac condenser. i must have towing package or some other option that requires the cooler. 96 ram 1500 4x4 cc 5.2l. 265 75r16 i think these are standard with the off road package. .
From : lurker
the 2002+ dodge 1500 has the same brake system as the 2003+ 2500/3500 models and are quite capable of safely stopping *my* 23000 pound combination and have done so much less his far lighter one. i reposted this statement from another group. i do not think it is true. i am of the understanding that not only is the 2500/3500 have larger brakes and drums but the diesel engine requires more beefed up suspension as well. -- bill p. 2004 2500 slt quad cab dodge ram slt swb 2wd 5.9 ho turbo diesel 48re auto trans anti-spin 3.73 dif.rhino liner husky 16k. voyager controller 2005 27rl wildcat dt/pc wi-fi. dual eu2000i hondas just me and dog .
From : Annonymous
tbone wrote what you need to ask is what those other guys are using their vehicles for and use that as part of your decision. if they are stuffing them in muscle cars or serious off road vehicles then you need to take that into account compared to the way you intend to drive. theyre all muslce car - 1/4 mile heads. thats why theyre blowing out rears and went with detroit lockers. like i mentioned ealier i had a detroit locker many years ago and one thing i definitely remember it was noisy but it was pretty cool the way it worked turned heads. do i need it like you said prob not. actually i am unaware of auburn putting a time limit on their exchange program. that seems like some garbage that particular vendor is doing and if you still are thinking abiut the auburn i would contact them directly to find out. youre right. this site costs a bit more and said for the $100 *with* reciept and under 4 years you get a new one. http//www.jawsgear.net/store/catalog/posi.phpcpath=31 but auburns site said under 4 years you dont need the receipt but you do only after 4 years. i guess thats to eliminate someone taking an old diff and trying to get a new one for cheap if they werent the ones that bought it along with the serial/date stamp. pdf- return policy - qualificationsforthed-rexprogram http//www.auburngear.com/aftermarket/drex/qualificationsforthed-rexprogram.pdf the auburn site has some specs on it. as far as bullet-proof goes that really depends on how hard you intend to push it. if you are just using it for added traction on the street then is that durability and the added cost for it really needed only you can answer that. as far as the ability to rebuild it if the parts cost upwards of $100 dollars how much better off are you especially if it is you that has to do it with no warranty on your success and if you have your mechanic do it that is more of his time and your money. good point. either way *i* wont be doing it. snip unless you intend to put any of them through some serious abuse i doubt that you would need to rebuild any of them but since i dont know you or how you drive that is just my opinion. i will not try to convince you to buy any particular diff. i looked at them all and after comparing the specs performance amd price of all of the units against my specific needs the auburn won out for me most bang for the buck. that what it looks like to me too. more for the $$. blows away stock units and its quiet too. wife can drive it too without needing to understand how the truetrac works if she ever gets the guts to. shes afraid of the truck. my driving normal not really. i do push it sometimes only because i expect the thing to function as advertised. im hard on vehicles. i also own a 2003 jeep gc 4.7ho quadradrive gave it to my wife when i got the truck. quadradrive is their all 4 vari-lock lsd version. prior to that i had a 2000 jeep gc v8 quadradrive too with a v8. in both jeeps i blew the rears out and the transfer case in the 2000. yes my driving. i knew i did it too. between punching them and once towing a 3000lb stump grinder. im not that subtle with vehicles. thats why i buy the extended warranties. i think the transfer case blow-out was from the stump grinder. after it happened they both made a strong chatter making left turns or left u-turns and the 2000 i lost 4hi but not 4lo completely with the transfer case whining contantly . the extended warranty paid for itself after that. - after reading more on the auburns they seem the way to go. will a stump grinder tow blow it maybe i should just be careful next time. hehe. the detroit truetrac although nice maybe a bit of a pain when you have to hit the break pedal to induce torque for the thing to lock or engage at low-speed spinouts getting out of a parking spot in 12 of snow. its not available yet for this truck 9.25 anyway until july 05. detroit quoted $425.00 as targeted price but that may have been wholesale. the auburn 540270 is $393.00 at peyton. i found a distributor about 10 miles away in the philly area. ill check their price tomorrow. tbone thanks. i didnt want to sound like a super newbie novice but i guess its been 25 years since ive dealt with hi-end hi-perf parts and just wanted to get someones opinion on the differences and what they would choose and why. if i had a track car the detroit locker is what i would prob get. but more and more the auburn looks like the way to go. thanks for your time. - ace ps. the next thing im doing is the superchip or something similar to see what i can get out of it. .
From : tbone
on fri 27 may 2005 013228 gmt tbone t-bonenospam@nc.rr.com wrote hi all! been wondering lately about replacement of the front rotors on my 99 ctd 2500 rwd. is there a measurement or rule of thumb used by brake shops on when the rotors need to be replaced or is it strictly appearance out of true criteria thats used also how many times can the rotors be resurfaced brake rotors should never be resurfaced it just takes the life out of them. if they are warped or gouged then just replace them otherwise they should be good to go. i agree in principal - however there is a minimum thickness spec cast into the rotor and published. if the rotor is below that thickness it must be replaced. a very light clean-up cut will often get rid of a minor pulsation and will give a firmer pedal and faster more effective break-in. usually a rotor is good for 2 or 3 of these light cuts. however today usually a rotor requires much more than that light cut to clean up in my experience - and rotors are not much more expensive than the machining cost - unless you can do it yourself. .