Brake Job
From : craig c
Q: ive touched on this subject before because i knew it wouldnt be long before the brakes started squeeling. well that time has finally come. i plan to have a complete brake job done. new pads and rotors all the way around. so a couple of questions 1 are vented rotors really the way to go or are the positive things i read simply a marketing ploy for normal driving vented rotors are unnecessary 2 any suggestions of a good brake mechanic in the north dallas texas area i prefer not to go to the dealer unless i have to. cant help you there but avoid the midas car-x meineke shops unless you want to buy a complete brake job. 3 is there a particular brake type i need to prevent squeeling it seems that everytime i have had a brake job done in the past the new pads always squeel whereas the oem pads never did. buy a good quality pad dont buy on price alone. 4 any other suggestions dont buy on price alone. quality is like buying oats... if you want nice clean fresh oats you will have to pay a price... oats that have already been thru the horse can be had somewhat cheaper... mike thanks craig c. 2004 ram 2500 ctd 4x4 qc .
Replies:
From : bob
who wants to buy old used junk shock absorbers i have fs parts for a 2500 heavy duty truck 4x4. these are the spings shocks mounts and structs. i recently installed a new lift kit and rims on this truck. please see attached picture. i am located in richmond. va. please make me an offer! please email if you have any questions. thanks... vasales@excite.com -- posted via a free usenet account from http//www.tera.com .
From : stormin mormon
beekeep wrote on 12 oct 2006 111703 -0700 buc ehudson77@yahoo.com wrote hd with ac off and heat on i get nothing through wents. im about to pull blower motor and test with 12vdc power supply. if it is bad would local auto parts store carry it or is it a dealer only part. eric. unplug the blower motor and turn it on. with a voltmeter check and see if you have power at the jack. beekeep beekeep i disconnected the blower and connected it to 12v power source and it works like a charm. connecting my voltmeter to wiring harness that plugs into the blower does not give me 12vdc. i get nothing at all. i then put the voltmeter directly into the wire piercing the insulation and i still got nothing. i have checked every fuse/relay under the hood and they all check out good. what else is there to check a/c control cluster if so how do i remove it from dash to do so. buc. .
From : jon
hello again i replaced the resistor pack in my 2003 dodge ram 1500 quad cab and the a/c still refuses to come on. when i adjust the blender control i can hear it moving behind the dash and i can hear the a/c compressor kick on/off but i get no flow through any of the vents. what else can i check and look for thanks eric. this may be a silly question but do you get air out the vents on heat settings with the a/c turned off when my blender door broke i could hear the servo motor run but it didnt change the door setting. you should be able to hear the blower running especially on high even if the vents dont work. if no motor noise i would suspect a fuse or the motor itself. hd .
From : bob
no problem. email if you need more help. -- budd cochran john 316-17 ephesians 28-9 romans 323 623 our constitution was made only for a moral and religious people. it is wholly inadequate for the government of any other. john adams thanks. that helps. -- posted via a free usenet account from http//www.tera.com .
From : napalmheart
on thu 12 oct 2006 045551 -0500 mike simmons mikesim@yhti.net wrote on oct 11 802 pm mike simmons mike...@yhti.net wrote buy a good quality pad dont buy on price alone. and where would one buy these quality pads napa autozone napa is ok autozone...... never! mike 4 any other suggestions dont buy on price alone. quality is like buying oats... if you want nice clean fresh oats you will have to pay a price... oats that have already been thru the horse can be had somewhat cheaper... a few months ago i did my brakes and had to replace a damaged rotor the replacement purchased from napa. they had two rotors one for about 35$ and the other for about 60$. they were identical physically so i asked what the difference was between them and the parts clerk said the least expensive one is made in china the other is made in the u.s. other than that they are the same. i told him given that they are functionally the same i will take the least expensive one. to which he replied if it were me that is what i would do too. no issues thus far works fine. regards joe. ps i did however opt for the premium quality pads which were a few bucks more than standard oem replacements since my past experiences have shown me that the better pads wear significantly longer than standard issue. well said. i have no problem spending the money. my problem is knowing *where* to spend the money. craig c. .
From : joe brophy
suddenly without warning azwiley1 exclaimed 11-oct-06 1112 am ok really quick i have been playing around with idea for a long time and finally started to try and do something about it. there are a handful of people in the group that i would like to hear the thoughts and opinions from so instead of trying to email you all i figured i would post it here. if you wouldnt mind tom l. roy wabbit nate or who ever else look at this and let me hear it. please just keep in mind that it is a work in progress. mac budd you are exempt! g thanks all http//members.cox.net/komputershoppe/ some comments from a webmaster http//jodi.ws and a fellow technician your code doesnt validate 23 errors. check out http//validator.w3.org to do a validation check and see what the errors are. good is your css does validate!@ in firefox at larrys... follows directly after the blue bar rather than on the next line. need a br / in there or something... id suggest getting rid of the blue bars or finding some narrower ones. ditch the animation on your header and the bar. always use animation sparingly if at all - its often distracting and annoying. at a glance id guess youre a coder rather than a designer i dont see anything in your source that says if youre using a tool to develop the pages. i see a clock in your source but i dont see it on your pages. have you just not called it yet use javascript sparingly. javascript menus usually are not accessible to the disabled cutting out a possibly large number of possible visitors/clients. id suggest using all css for your menus rather than javascript. buttons too can be done nicely using css. see my site. make your menus consistent throughout the site. which means make sure theyre exactly the same on every page. im seeing menus that are moving around a bit different on each page. id suggest using a more usual font youre using trebuchet ms which many of us may not have. id suggest arial or verdana. now i realize its under construction but since i dont know if you know whats broke and whats not tools.htm contact us is using the graphic and repeated as a simple button. neither works. and home is broken on some all pages. payments takes me to raw .asp code. good luck with your business. ive considered doing it a couple of timesand actually *have* done housecalls but decided it was too much of a hassle. these days id be worried that id get sued if the customer thought id screwed the computer up. id add something to legal that says that data loss isnt covered by your warranty - the customer should be responsible for backing up their data before you work on the computer unless theyre paying you the full price to do it for them. make them sign something that says i backed up my data and/or i wont hold larry responsible if im lying and i lose everything cause i cant be arsed to back it up or run a virus scanner. or something like that. im not really as jaded as all that but i think ill stick to fixing computers at work you might go visit alt.www.webmaster - lots of good talent there and great information. anyway sorry for so many comments! jmc .
From : mike simmons
on thu 12 oct 2006 033621 gmt fmb fmbb@sbcglobal.net wrote 03 2500 ctd laramie one dash light bulb went out. it was behind the 70mph area. i ordered two bulbs so i would have one spare. i replaced the dead bulb and put everything back together. night time came i tried it and lo and behold a different bulb was out this time behind the 3k rpm area. next morning i opened things up and checked to see if i knocked it loose i didnt it was burnt out. i put my spare in there. next night i checked the lights again and a third bulb is now out somewhere around 5k rpm area not that i ever go that fast. the bulbs i pulled out had purple bases the replacements have black bases and appear to be the same brightness. did the dealer give me the right bulbs i still have the bag and the pick paper but dont see which of the numbers might be the part number. im thinking it is 1174h8n80 bulb. i dont have the receipt any longer. should i replace all the bulbs in the dash one at a time or all at once so i dont wear out the instrument panel screws what is next overhead interior lights headlights turnsignals running lights or is it just my luck fmb north mexico with incandescent type bulbs as they burn the filaments start to not only get smaller since they are emitting small particles of themselves as they glow but also the filaments become brittle as well. imho if the bulbs have been in use for a few years since new i would replace them as a group while youve got the access to the dash opened. it doesnt take much of a shock to break or at least crack a filament in a used bulb. if cracked it will likely burn out the next time it is powered on due to the initial surge of current it gets as it warms to operating temperature anyway. a more reliable alternative would be to find led replacements for the type bulb that is used in your application. initial cost is higher but you shouldnt have to replace any of these bulbs for the remaining life of the vehicle. you should be able to find compatible led replacement bulbs in white blue and perhaps other colors that can be used for added effect on the backlighting of the dash. regards joe. .
From : bigironram
03 2500 ctd laramie one dash light bulb went out. it was behind the 70mph area. i ordered two bulbs so i would have one spare. i replaced the dead bulb and put everything back together. night time came i tried it and lo and behold a different bulb was out this time behind the 3k rpm area. next morning i opened things up and checked to see if i knocked it loose i didnt it was burnt out. i put my spare in there. next night i checked the lights again and a third bulb is now out somewhere around 5k rpm area not that i ever go that fast. the bulbs i pulled out had purple bases the replacements have black bases and appear to be the same brightness. did the dealer give me the right bulbs i still have the bag and the pick paper but dont see which of the numbers might be the part number. im thinking it is 1174h8n80 bulb. i dont have the receipt any longer. should i replace all the bulbs in the dash one at a time or all at once so i dont wear out the instrument panel screws what is next overhead interior lights headlights turnsignals running lights or is it just my luck fmb north mexico .
From : craig c
craig c. wrote ive touched on this subject before because i knew it wouldnt be long before the brakes started squeeling. well that time has finally come. i plan to have a complete brake job done. new pads and rotors all the way around. so a couple of questions 1 are vented rotors really the way to go or are the positive things i read simply a marketing ploy drilled and slotted rotors are simply for looks and will actually decrease braking performance by decreasing surface contact area. just have your stock rotors resurfaced and youll be fine and it will save you money. 3 is there a particular brake type i need to prevent squeeling it seems that everytime i have had a brake job done in the past the new pads always squeel whereas the oem pads never did. use a ceramic pad. they sqeal but at such a high frequency that humans cant hear it. be carefull as some ceramic pads are not recommended for towing. 4 any other suggestions very carefully follow the instructions for properly bedding the pads. -- ..bob arrived 2006 fxdi red. 1997 hd fxdwg - turbocharged stolen 11/26/05 in denver 1hd1gel10vy3200010 co license j5822z 2001 dodge dakota qc 5.9/4x4/3.92 1966 mustang coupe - daily driver 1965 ffr cobra - 427w efi damn fast. .
From : mike simmons
on oct 11 802 pm mike simmons mike...@yhti.net wrote buy a good quality pad dont buy on price alone. and where would one buy these quality pads napa autozone 4 any other suggestions dont buy on price alone. quality is like buying oats... if you want nice clean fresh oats you will have to pay a price... oats that have already been thru the horse can be had somewhat cheaper... well said. i have no problem spending the money. my problem is knowing *where* to spend the money. craig c. .