Back to the LSD diff thing... Auburn, Eaton, or Detroit?
From : ms networking dude
Q: on mon 23 may 2005 233926 -0600 nathan w. collier montanajeeper@aol.com wrote i really wanted to order the brake smart brake controller from http//brakesmart.net but several days after emailing them i got a response saying that if i ordered now i could possibly get a unit within 6-8 weeks which is unacceptable. im currently considering two readily available units and would like feedback on both. 1- prodigy http//www.tekonsha.com/prodig.html it comes highly recommended from many in this group. i like to boost feature and feel that unless its over-rated marketing fluff it would be a good feature to have. 2- jordan http//jordanbrake.com i like that it reads in amps and not volts tells you if the brakes are actually working. both look great in their websites but id like informed opinions on both before i buy. thanks! nate... ive been on the good sam rv forum for a few years and the tekonsha/jordon argument is always alive... most seem to prefer the prodigy.. i love mine especially after the pos drawtite the rv dealer put on our truck.. i dont think that youll be unhappy with either one but my vote would be the prodigy or whatever is latest and greatest from tekonsha... btw the prodigy never needs adjusting of position because it doesnt use a pendulum... has jordon gone that route also they probably have but if not go prodigy... its a pita to bump a controller with you knee or dog and have your brakes react differently than youre used to.. mac please remove splinters before emailing .
Replies:
From : ms networking dude
you can check it with just one wheel lifted as well. lift one wheel and put it in neutral be sure to block a front wheel and try to turn the lifted wheel. if you can turn it it is an open rear or a dead limited slip and if not it is a posi. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving dave in lake villa wrote the window sticker says semi floating rear 9 1/4 inch heavy duty rear axle. its on a 1997 ram maxi van 3500. does this require the posi lube additive from dodge thanks. simple check jack up both rear wheels and place tranny in neutral. spin a rear wheel and if other side spins in same direction it is a posi rear end. if it spins in opposite direction it is a open diff. -- posted using the http//www.autoforumz.com interface at authors request articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards topic url http//www.autoforumz.com/dodge-im-determine-posi-diff-ramvan-ftopict121829.html visit topic url to contact author reg. reqd. report abuse http//www.autoforumz.com/eform.phpp=592934 .
From : nosey
on fri 27 may 2005 013228 gmt tbone t-bonenospam@nc.rr.com wrote hi all! been wondering lately about replacement of the front rotors on my 99 ctd 2500 rwd. is there a measurement or rule of thumb used by brake shops on when the rotors need to be replaced or is it strictly appearance out of true criteria thats used also how many times can the rotors be resurfaced brake rotors should never be resurfaced it just takes the life out of them. if they are warped or gouged then just replace them otherwise they should be good to go. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving pure bullshit. i have had mine turned every time that i have replaced the brake pads. i have only replaced the rotors once the last brake job and have over 260000 miles on the vehicle. the pads last longer and there is no pull to either side when braking. beekeep .
From : ms networking dude
theyre all muslce car - 1/4 mile heads. thats why theyre blowing out rears and went with detroit lockers. like i mentioned ealier i had a detroit locker many years ago and one thing i definitely remember it was noisy but it was pretty cool the way it worked turned heads. do i need it like you said prob not. if you had one before you know what to expect. you will most likely never break it. they are reliable. most of the people that even know what a differential is know about detroit lockers. if you are going to spend the money on a new differential you may as well get one. that noise is just a reminder of what you have. you will grow to love that sound just like the diesel engine clatter. ive never heard anyone complain about their turbo whistling too loudly either. dc even went as far as to put a turbo silencer easily removed on the intake inlet for some unknown reason. .
From : tbone
tbone wrote if youve got a 3.551 axle youre lugging the hell out of your truck. trust me i know where youre at - i got a 99 1500 2wd on 265s 225 stock. i get better fuel economy in 4th gear than 5th if im under 70 mph average. it sure drives better on the bigger rubber tho. in my case i should regear the truck and tuck some decent springs under it too its killing my back... your choices are a replace the ring and pinion gears in your axle for a ratio more in tune for the rubber you want to swing... with that much rubber id personally go with 4.10s for sure im assuming a 318 or 360... aproximately 10% less stress on the transmission/gearbox/engine as 3.92 and 20% than 3.55 correct me if my math is off i calculated this a few years ago... i was quoted about $650 for one axle rear axle parts and labor. actual parts cost appears to be about $300/axle to do the job right its a 99 you definetly want to go ahead and replace the bearings chrysler has a reputation for using junk just remember that if you go the regearing rout you will need to do it to both axles. as for the transmission when was the last time you changed its fluid i would suggest an aux trans cooler as well. shouldnt there be an aux tranny cooler on his truck anyway. i dont know some do and others dont. i think that it has to do with the options ordered. either way if the trans is getting that hot then what is there is simply not enough. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : ms networking dude
nathan w. collier wrote i really wanted to order the brake smart brake controller from http//brakesmart.net but several days after emailing them i got a response saying that if i ordered now i could possibly get a unit within 6-8 weeks which is unacceptable. im currently considering two readily available units and would like feedback on both. 1- prodigy http//www.tekonsha.com/prodig.html it comes highly recommended from many in this group. i like to boost feature and feel that unless its over-rated marketing fluff it would be a good feature to have. 2- jordan http//jordanbrake.com i like that it reads in amps and not volts tells you if the brakes are actually working. both look great in their websites but id like informed opinions on both before i buy. thanks! two different worlds the prodigy senses the deceleration of the tow vehicle and applies trailer braking proportionately. this is affected by the potholes up- or down-slope of the road bouncing of the trailer movement of the horses etc. the jordan is actuated by a cable to the brake pedal arm and applies braking proportional to your foot pressure on the brake pedal. its much smoother and more predictable and much more comfortable for the passengers. i have both; the prodigy travels under the seat as a spare. rick .