Antenna story

From : mikeg

Q: poster wants to look inside the switch to see the problem do you see the problem with that yes and ignored it since afaik the switch is not rebuildable. ya cant ignore the question even if you believe the problem to be elsewhere. i am not going to get into an argument over something like this. removing the ignition switch is much more difficult then testing it the way i suggested and if you try to open it you will probably destroy it. if that is his belief then he can jump directly to the test of it at the clutch position switch that you copied above. id bet on the problem being here unless...... that weird feeling he has in the ignition switch is the problem. in many cases that feeling is an illusion. you get used to hearing and feeling the starter kick when the ignition is turned to the start position usually before it hits the stop and when that doesnt happen it feels like the switch is stopping too soon. i dont know for a fact if that is happening but have felt that way myself sometimes. while i agree for the most part on your diagnostic the fact that he can crank the truck by shorting the starter harness says that the problem is more likely the ignition switch clutch interlock which is most easily tested by simply jumping it out since not everyone has a multimeter or starter relay. well yea since that is the whole primary side of the starter circuit. all shorting it out proves that the starter and its solenoid are functioning. as for the multi-meter you can get an inexpensive digital one from home depot for around 20 bucks. i prefer my analog simpson but i have a few cheap hd specials as well and they will do the job and are fairly indestructible. if you are going to mess with the electrical system of the truck it is a needed tool. it may even be the fuse but....when a fuse goes bad you have other problems. while true in many cases its not in this one. that fuse 40a is dedicated to the starter solenoid and does nothing else. however if his truck acts normally in that all accessories cut out when he hits the start position of his ignition switch the relay is probably behaving ok. why do you say that the ignition switch is responsible for that not the starter relay. at best that may indicate that the ignition switch is not the problem. and after all that... it could just be corrosion on a battery terminal or ground terminal. if that were the case then shorting the solenoid would not work either although there could be corosion on the solenoid terminal. i didnt think of that good call max. great detail but forgot the little things that will stymie the diagnostic as well as the truck. its always the little things that bite you in the ass lol. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

Replies:

From : jedmo123

http//www.bolhuijo.com/airflowtest/ http//www.ibmwr.org/otech/airfilter.html http//www.ibmwr.org/ktech/dyno/index.shtml http//www.bmwe34.net/e34main/upgrade/airfilter.htm http//az.pca.org/motorpool/articles/technicalpotpourriandproduct.htm well that settles everything another self styled usenet expert. nothing you have posted proves a fucking thing. its just another opinion. the fact that k&n filters are so poor should be easy to prove why not provide a link to an actual test rather than just saying dyno testing a few years back proved no gain with the k+n ive followed these ridiculous threads for years and have yet to see anybody post anything other than opinions which is fine but hardly proves anything. if that makes me a stupid fuck then so be it. cbhvac stephenaddressscfrewedonpurpose@carolinabreezehvac.com wrote in . going to be interesting what the studies reveal in about 5 years. what that youre an idiot. k&n had been in business since 1969 and are well respected except by the experts on usenet. well....hell...here we go again... on the internet everyone is an expert on something.....i guess you are an expert at calling people idiots. i guess i am an expert at calling you a stupid fuck #300 #2 for 2004..google that...and you will understand and be an expert on the sf list... now..i ran k+n garbage on a couple of rides...one was a 1150 kawasaki and after we rebuilt it twice due to ring failure we went back per the factory reps advice to paper filters and its got a tad over 45000 on it since that time.. i ran k+n on my 426 with eight...count em...eight stacks fi and more hp than you prob have combined in your driveway. dyno testing a few years back proved no gain with the k+n without a filter or with a paper filter...no loss either with the paper. i ran one on my firebird when it was cool to have that decal and filter in the car....after 3 months in the deserts of ca the tb was caked with dust...and a set of rings was due.. now...all i can say is this.. k+n wont publically test the filter because it will fail. it is all marketing hype and hype is nothing in the real world. you think you have something that makes you feel faster or makes you feel good cause its in there...fine...but dont come in here talking about usenet experts...the average expert is a kid in a honda that swears his japanese decal on the window makes 20hp and calls us racist when we say hes driving a ricer..of course..you know those coffee can mufflers make up to 200hp....right k+n nothing but a filter that does a piss poor job with a great marketing campaign and a sucker born every minute. i think i am gonna run right out and buy me a fart tip muffler a k+n and some cool decals for the service vans.....i ought to be able to go bust a vette pulling the drag car to an event after that... .