Always related to this NG, but found on another on: How many forum posters does it take to change a light bulb?

From : mr rather b beachen

Q: i have 1999 dodge ram 1500 my abs an brake light came on and the speedometer is not working. .

Replies:

From : mike simmons

another question if i may be so bold. i wont trouble you this time with how i got the castle nut off. trouble me... im curious the outside lip. my question is does this thing need to be thoroughly cleaned. nah - its just a splash shield... .

From : tim miser

yep kosmo if the plugs have 55k on them that might be your problem. my 5.9 will also get moisture in the dist. cap and will jump fire inside the cap and carbon ark the rotor. need to change everything from the distributor to the head out. plugs; i use the champion rc12yc i change them every 15000 miles along with the dist. cap and rotor but you can get platium and other different plugs it up to your preference and what you want to pay for. just use the heat range that is reconmended for your vehicle by its manufacturer. also you might check the fuel pressure on the injectors after you change the plugs. i dont know if your vehicle has the fuel filter in the tank or on the outside. mine on the 95 stopped up with brown varnish at 69000 and had to have the tank removed and i through the filter away and put a 91 shadow filter in the line so i could get to it. it has 213000 on it now. wires; ive been getting the premium lifetime warranty at oreillys and auto zone everytime. i cant seem to get the boots off the spark plug without pulling the ends off of a couple wires everytime and have to get a new set every plug change. also you might stay with mopar wires since you know they work with the computer ei. yep kosmo you got your moneys worth out of those plugs and wires! good luck w ive owned a 99 durango with the 5.9 liter engine sice 24k miles. it now has 55k miles on it and as of late feels really down on power especially under critical acceleration like merging onto the freeway or making a pass. it feels so weak that i am very reluctant to make a pass on a two lane road unless i can see miles of clear road ahead of me. i have not done anything beyond routine oil changes and air filter. i imagine the truck is at a point in its life now that it needs some maintenance above just an oil change. the first thing that comes to mind to try and restore power is replace the plugs and wires. could you please suggest some good performance plugs and wires is there anything else i need to do to ensure performance and engine longevity at 50k miles thanks -- kosmo veni vidi vici .

From : milestom lawrence

gary glaenzer wrote lets start with 10 foot pounds shall we 10 footpounds / 12 = 0.8333 inch pounds hardly lol...i was joking...note the - .

From : readermike simmons

anyone had success of removing the convertor. what were the results .

From : tom lawrence

you fergot the two posters who argue whether you use a beam type torque wrench or click type torque wrench to tighten the bulb! i am growing pretty darned sick and tired of the blatant discrimination shown to the dial-type crowd. oh sure... we dont have a big powerful lobby like the clickers and we arent as sympathetic as the beamers but dammit were a choice too! we can still do the job... ya just gotta give us a chance. i think we need to get more legislation passed to outlaw the oppressive tactics constantly employed by the clickers and the beamers. to be fair all repair shops should be required to maintain a certain percentage of dial-type wrenches so as not to perpetuate the unfair advantage currently enjoyed by the other two. some day hopefully soon each dial-type wrench will enjoy the same opportunities afforded their beam and click brothers. can i get an amen .

From : mike simmons

try this http//www.wreckedexotics.com/ ron vic bc .

From : nosey

thanks to you and brians shes on the road again. just out of curiosity do you have any idea how much it would have cost to have it done at a dealership including parts thanks again. from another thread someone posted that he had pretty much the same job u-joint replaced for $200. since a u-joint costs about $20 add whatever you paid for the hub to that for the cost at a local garage. the dealer would have charged around $250 for the hub and around $250-$300 for labor. .