Advice Sought
From : phxbrdphxbrd
Q: im glad it worked but i still think theres a contaminant in the fluid. did the system get flushed at the same time budd dick wrote the swap out for smaller mastercylinder & dual diaphram boaster did the trick! i would not recomend this for the average user its an involved mod requiring drilling new holes for boaster in the firewall relocating the sensor valves foward 2 more drilling & you have to drop the wheelwell liner just to get at the screws to remove that bracket or you cant get the boaster off.. then you have to enlongate the screw holes so the brake light switch will work.. way more work than i had planed on but results are great and parts only cost $41.80 from junk yard off of crashed 2000 durango. dick my 97s brakes are dangerous when in a panic stop situation like im sliding on ice. no lockup.i just ordered a master cylinder 15/16 vs 1 on 97 & a booster for 10.5-31 x 15 tires off a 2000 durango. anybody see any problems with this replacement/conversion i noticed in 2000 dodge offered 11 rear drums as an option does anyone here have them on their dakota or have an opinion on converting mine i assume i would have to replace the preportioning valve also anything else besides backing plates w/ shoes etc.& drums cables from doaner truck. i know disc would be better but cost is too high. dick .
Replies:
From : texasfireguy
my 1990 dakota has been having starter problems so i decided to replace the starter. after spending much of the time upside-down in the engine compartment this is a 4wd so ive have no clear path from underneath i managed to remove the top bolt and the bottom nut. the bottom nut wasnt tight make that not even snugged up leading me to believe that the starter had been replaced before. what got me is that when i pulled out the starter and disconnected the wires i came up with a large wire with a connector lug on it that i assumed had been on the starter it leads back to the negative battery connector and appears to be the main ground for the car. when i put the new starter in i discovered that the wire did not reach to either the bolt or the nut. i had to stop since it was getting dark but im sure it wasnt a question of the wire being hung up on something so my question is where did it connect to originally the negative also has a smaller wire going to a chassis ground so i guess the system could have been functioning but i would have thought that the starter would have fried that connection the first time i started the truck without the main ground. ive also been having other problems which if i find out the ground hasnt been hooked up for a while might have been caused by it. where should this ground be connected to could it have been connected to the waterpump in some way i had to replace it several months ago and its possible that i missed hooking it back up. any ideas where it should go i dont know the original location but the large battery ground cable should be hooked directly to the engine. any convenient bolt that wont place the cable in harms way will work. the small cable attached to the body is only intended to carry the current load for the body accessories not the starter load. john .
From : tim misertim miser
had both of my front rotors replaced at 5800 miles 03 qc 4x4 w/20s my 01 and my bosses 01 both have the same problem. on wed 30 jul 2003 213717 gmt scott shirley none@none.com wrote a few folks that i have spoken with at the local delearship other customers have all had problems with brakes on their quad cab 1500s with 20 wheels mine and few other folks rotors were warped. anyone else exp. this .
From : phxbrd
one more downside would be less fuel mileage since we are talking full size pickups now. -tim you cant get a hemi for under 22000 around here. and at that price you get absolutely nothing in the way of conveniences. its a 4x2 2 door swb stripped down vehicle. my 94 v-6 dakota is tired and wants to live elsewhere. i like the new ram equipped with the 5.7l hemi but know little about it. ill haul next to nothing but ass and it seems willing for such work. any downsides or recommendations im looking in the 21k price range.... tia.... .
From : russ
so can a plugged air filter. downshift just to go over the overpass. i replaced the sparkplugs wires air filter transmission fluid pcv valve oil filter. you get the point. i just dont know. it struggles even more when i pull my 16 trailer empty. a partially plugged cat will do that to an engine. .
From : phxbrd
ok i done playing games............. $4000 denny $3200.99 -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving $3199.50 denny i guess so... $3100.01 -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving i just know a good deal on a truck when i see it... $3001.27 denny if i didnt know better i would think that you are just trying to drive the price up for your friend there. $3001.26 -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving $3001.25 denny $3001 -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving $3000 denny $2800 -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving $2750 denny $2600 -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving $2500 denny $2300 -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving $2250 denny why i auta $1800 -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving $1750 denny tbone fatchance@noway.now wrote in message i think that you two need to get a room - btw ill give you 1500 for it. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote in message denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote in message roy roy@home.net wrote in message wtf!! the witnesss have been tampered with and coerced you have probably threatened cari with a stale clam. kim is probably in fear that youll find your way to the bedroom. gbfg reply from cari. you fibulator! take that from a female teenager i cant believe cari is turning on me already.g reply from kim if you denny were a beached whale it would take greenpeace in a rubber raft to pull you denny off the beach. it would take a whole tugboat to move roys ass back to the water the reason it would take a tugboat is .... well let me put it this way ya cant drive a spike with a tack hammer. i guess its time for sue to put in a few comments!! or is she sitting back in a corner snickering too much to type her comments on this tack hammer will be priceless!!! denny .
From : phxbrdphxbrd
my wife now argues that it was 18. ida sworn the sticker said 20. the salesman said the now discontinued non-hemi 5.9 got as low as 11. i can live with 18. remember im looking at a standard cab ram with a short bed. mebbe the hemis you know are on heavier trucks. possible ive not heard anybody here with hemi mileage that high. more like 13-15 mpg seems to be the average reported here and for an automatic it should be on the lower end of that average. -tim not by much. my dakota v-6 5-speed has delivered the advertised 21 mpg highway since new. ive always gotten advertised mileage on all vehicles. the new ram hemi automatic advertises 20 mpg. ill gladly give up the 1 mpg for the increased acceleration and power. i mean that sucker whoops! could it be that modern engine efficiency continues to improve one more downside would be less fuel mileage since we are talking full size pickups now. -tim you cant get a hemi for under 22000 around here. and at that price you get absolutely nothing in the way of conveniences. its a 4x2 2 door swb stripped down vehicle. my 94 v-6 dakota is tired and wants to live elsewhere. i like the new ram equipped with the 5.7l hemi but know little about it. ill haul next to nothing but ass and it seems willing for such work. any downsides or recommendations im looking in the 21k price range.... tia.... .
From : tim miser
just charge it up with r-134a until the big linesuction is beer can cold and youll be fine. save a beera for me too! i can hear the veins in steves head popping now! .
From : phxbrd
ive not heard anybody here with hemi mileage that high. more like 13-15 mpg seems to be the average reported here and for an automatic it should be on the lower end of that average. -tim not by much. my dakota v-6 5-speed has delivered the advertised 21 mpg highway since new. ive always gotten advertised mileage on all vehicles. the new ram hemi automatic advertises 20 mpg. ill gladly give up the 1 mpg for the increased acceleration and power. i mean that sucker whoops! could it be that modern engine efficiency continues to improve one more downside would be less fuel mileage since we are talking full size pickups now. -tim you cant get a hemi for under 22000 around here. and at that price you get absolutely nothing in the way of conveniences. its a 4x2 2 door swb stripped down vehicle. my 94 v-6 dakota is tired and wants to live elsewhere. i like the new ram equipped with the 5.7l hemi but know little about it. ill haul next to nothing but ass and it seems willing for such work. any downsides or recommendations im looking in the 21k price range.... tia.... .
From : russ
i would have doubts about my actual social life if i spent countless hours each day arguing and getting people to think in aadt. you must type very slowly. thanks...if i ever want to piss half my life i way ill know who to model myself after. i see you are another that hasnt a clue and has decided they know better. and since this group is and will always be unmoderated...perhaps ill just k&n filter lol your ass out because too many of your threads are clogging up my screen! good idea. but for someone thatspends so little time here you sure are going to a lot of trouble to not only reply but use filters and generally complain about nothing. thanks...if i ever want to piss and moan half my life i way ill know who to model myself after. ive wasted too much time on you... youve wasted far too much oxygen simply by breathing as well. max spam filters why purify an undesired substance .
From : tbone
qc = quad cab. i was wrong about the 5700 lbs sorry about that looks like its actually 4800. http//modelreports.cars.com/modeldata/trimreport.jspmakeid=12&modelid=1292&year=2003&myid=4077&acode=usb30ddt113b0&grp=specs&dtl=x&aff=national i have read in many sources that gas mileage improves after a few thousand miles on the engine the dealer said this as well. it is just very sensitive to minor bumps in the road however it handles large bumps just fine. pretty strange. my insurance went up about $20 / month and my previous car was a 1997 monte carlo z34 so thats not too bad. also the hemi makes no difference in the insurance the engine types in this truck are all the same price as far as insurance is concerned. whats qc the truck im looking at is an slt standard cab w/ short bed and clamshell style rear fenders. does it weigh 5700 lb why no i hadnt heard about rough road handling problems. where did you read about it how does the dealer explain the 11.1 mpg new engine tightness shouldnt matter that much should it i dont like the sound of that.... has the hemi engine casued a jump in your insurance premiums ive had mine for 2 weeks now i love it. 2003 qc 2wd hemi 20 rims all power . i got it for $22500. the window sticker says 14 city 18 hwy but i am getting 11.1 so far. that will increase a bit in a few thousand miles. it is definitely a fast sucker its hard to believe a 5700 lb vehicle can get to moving that fast. i am still getting used to very gently pushing the accelerator when i first pull away so that i dont spin the freaking tires. it handles great too. only negative thing which im sure youve already read about is that it skips around rather violently on certain road conditions. i live on the outskirts of a large city and the 2 lane roads out here have many spots where the asphalt has been patched up. when i ride over a series of those at 50+ mph i have to have both hands on the wheel to keep from flying off the road. yes i could slow down a little but i have 345 hp in front of me. my dealer quotes the 21k for an slt which is a far cry from a stripper. it has all the bells and whistles i need. any comments on the hemi i believe it came out in mid-year and replaces their guzzler 5.9l. the only criticism ive heard from trucker types is that it gets power and performance from higher rpms than competitors. do i care you cant get a hemi for under 22000 around here. and at that price you get absolutely nothing in the way of conveniences. its a 4x2 2 door swb stripped down vehicle. my 94 v-6 dakota is tired and wants to live elsewhere. i like the new ram equipped with the 5.7l hemi but know little about it. ill haul next to nothing but ass and it seems willing for such work. any downsides or recommendations im looking in the 21k price range.... tia.... .
From : russ
whats qc the truck im looking at is an slt standard cab w/ short bed and clamshell style rear fenders. does it weigh 5700 lb why qc is a quad cab. no i hadnt heard about rough road handling problems. where did you read about it many people in here are complaining about it. the springs seem to be a little too stiff and the rear shocks suck. supposedly replacing the rear shocks helps. how does the dealer explain the 11.1 mpg new engine tightness shouldnt matter that much should it i dont like the sound of that.... engine tightness does have a measurable effect on mpg. it causes the engine to waste power just trying to move its own parts. btw so does the way it is driven and if you like jumping on the hemi to watch it perform expect shit mileage in return. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : miles
rattling and loud rubbing noise as it turns. is this the bearing sure sounds like it. the wobbling wheel is the real indication. how hard are they to change i do have a chrysler service manual so does this bearing have a specific or unique name as there are about 20 entries for bearings all in different sections of the book. differential & driveline should be chapter 3 under the section for 216/248fbi yours is a 216fbi look for hub bearing and axle shaft. you can skip the part about removing the axle shaft from the housing... if you can get the hub assembly off the knuckle and axle shaft. in the manual it says remove hub bearing from steering knuckle and axle shaft. hah... easier said than done. first the axle splines usually sieze up inside the hub making it difficult to remove. secondly the hub assembly itself usually rusts itself in place in the knuckle. heres some tips - if you have a hub puller use it. this might get the hub off without much of a struggle. however... - if the hub wont come unstuck from the knuckle put the hub-to-knuckle bolts back in but leave them about 1/4 shy of tight you want a gab between the base of the bolt head and the knuckle. turn the wheel sharply to one side giving you a clear shot at the back of the knuckle. smack the bolt heads hard with a hammer. youre trying to drive the hub away from the knuckle. dont worry about trashing the hub - youre replacing it. - once the hub is free of the knuckle the hub puller should be able to pull the hub off the axle spline. if not or if you dont have a hub puller you can carefully remove the hub and axle as an assembly prop the hub in a vise and tap the axle shaft out of the hub have someone holding onto the axle so it doesnt fall on the ground. then clean up the axle splines on the short side with a wire brush and coat liberally with anti-sieze. clean off the differential end with a rag coat this end with either gear oil or a light coat of grease and re-install the axle into the housing. go slow and try and hold the axle as parallel inside the tube as you can. try not to let the end scrape the bottom of the tube - itll pick up all kinds of crap. align the end of the axle with the oil seal push it gently through the seal and turn it until the splines re-engage with the differential. youll feel it when it does. the hard part is removing the old hub. everything else is pretty simple. .
From : phxbrd
tbone wrote jesus christ to and you to be i had as like you character is doing the right thing when nobody is looking. you ---all lies bs and sick fantasies snipped from post--- pretty much sums up anything you post in this group. jerry -- character is doing the right thing when nobody is looking. .
From : phxbrd
yeah im hoping that mpg gets up to the 14 range sometime in the next few months $35 in week in gas is going to kill me. trust me it aint gonna get any better. you better hope that mill doesnt continue to loosen up. interestingly i can drive like a bat out of hell for a couple of days and the mileage is reported in the trip computer about the same as when i drive like a grandma for a the same distance. i think the bottom line is that this engine drinks a lot of gas no matter how you drive. i had a 56 buick century that got 9 mpg no matter how i drove it. it passed everything on the road except gas stations. at least you get the power with it unlike the 5.9 that had the same or less mpg and 100 less hp. ive heard that. irrelevant now that theyve discontinued it. .
From : sps 700
lol nice try max. i see that you are learning the art of specific wording. i see you are learning the art of lying your ass off..... follow closely. it is more than the body and engine that makes the suv perhaps..... what it now is like car like suspensions mulit-zoned climate controls heated leather seats multi-changer cd players lcd tvs power memory seats and pedals and all of the other things absolutly required in a sport utility vehicle. funny though it sounds more like im describing a luxury car imagine that. none of which have anything to do with mpg except in their inherent weight which is minimal compared to the overall vehicle imagine that. more bullshit on your part. its clear you havent aclue. max spam filters why purify an undesired substance .
From : phxbrd
you will if you leave it that way long enough. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving ok the belts off. the ps pulley moves slightly in and out but doesnt rock. the water pump pulley does rock up/down side-to-side. i suspect this is the problem. im surprised i dont have a leak. ** due to spam i no longer receive email responses to ** group postings so dont bother. .
From : wmhj
when i had my dash apart to install some other stuff on my 03 quad cab ram i noticed the connector for the air bag off switch was already in place. great! i thought ill just install the switch and plate and ill be good to go when i need seats for more than 3 kids in a pinch. so i now have it all together but the switch or at least the off light doesnt work. anyone know if i just need the dealer to activate it in the computer tia! jack .