A/C question: r12 vs. r134a connectors

From : karl

Q: your vehicle should be currently using r-12. there should be a sticker under the hood somewhere stating what type of refrigerant and how much of it your system uses although it is probably hidden under a layer of oil and dirt. your screw on schrader valves are a pretty good indication that you are using r-12. i dont think that r134a even existed when your car was built. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving my haynes dodge dakota pick-ups 1987 thru 1996 states caution there are two types of refrigerant r-12 used on vehicles up to 1992... then is goes on to say use only r134a refrigerant on models covered by this book. but the book starts with 1987 models. im confused - how do i tell if my 1989 v-6 dakota uses the old or the new refrigerant i just purchased an r-134a conversion kit which has snap-on type adapters whereas the original are screw-on. can i tell from that thanks. .

Replies:

From : tbone

i think i was being helpful. then please accept my humble apologies. it can be difficult to tell what someone is saying when youre reading it in text. -- nathan w. collier http//7slotgrille.com http//utilityoffroad.com accepted but not really necessary. every needs to blow off steam. clay .

From : transurgeon

on thu 09 jun 2005 151819 -0400 dakguy2000 dave18@hotmail.com wrote ive taken out my dash the other day to glass it and put it all back together and for some reasaon the taillights wont go out. ive checked fuses and went over all the wire connectors. please help guys and gals thanks did you check the brake light switch beekeep .

From : steve w

tbone wrote lol you really are funny miles. there was nothing rambling about it you either just cant understand it or you are just not man enough to admit to possibly being wrong. i believe that it is a lot of both. lol and i thought that i was bad. please prove even one of my points wrong oh thats right you cant and yet you still insist on me being wrong. sorry miles but until you do you are just being a whining crybaby that just likes to argue with nothing to back it up. tbone look at that crap you just wrote! yawn. like i said no real knowledge just wanting to argue. if that aint a pure sad lonely troll! now that would be you with your childish arguments that you are unable to back up. crap doesnt need to be proven wrong! while true you are even unable to prove what i said was crap although with your proven lack of knowledge in this area i can see why not. now be silent! perhaps you should follow your own advice miles and learn a little something about vehicles before jumping in and proving your ignorance on the subject. as for me since you are completely unable to make any point at all im done with this. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : snoman

langerhans wrote check the right side of the bed to see if roy and denny are hiding there. oh my god you owe me a new monitor. g theres dr. pepper spewed all over it now. that one came out of nowhere. bob .

From : karl

just adjust the front band for starters usually your problem is caused by a too-loose band hi i have a 92 d150 5.2l automatic with about 202000 miles on it. im getting a very rough 1-2 upshift under normal to light acceleration. when you get on the gas a little more it usually shifts more smoothly. also when shifting from park to drive or reverse it is pretty clunky. otherwise it works fine and upshifts/downshifts when it should. i am planning to adjust kickdown and low/reverse bands as per haynes manuals reccomendation and possibly the throttle rod as well. i am just curious as to what each of these adjustments actually controls. haynes manuals and google searches just turn up directions for adjusting but dont give a lot of info on why. id appreciate it if you could let me know whether or not these adjustments may improve things or point me to a web site with some more in-depth info on the subject. thanks .

From : no spam for me

hello all! im doing the front disc brakes on a 73 dodge tradesman 300 1 ton van. it has the 3300 pound 8 lug front axle. i bought rebuilt calipers a1 cardone which turned out to be real chrysler or at least a good enough knockoff that they copied the logo and everything. each caliper came with a kit of small parts. i got new copper washers for the brake line new retainer clips the rectangular things about 1 x 3 that hold the caliper to the adapter new anti-rattle springs vaguely triangular about 1 on the wide side that go in the middle of the retainer clips and new bolts for the retainer clips and anti-rattle springs. i know where all that stuff goes. in the small parts kit there were also two small rubber bands. they are black maybe 1/8 wide and maybe 4 long unstretched. they were folded into an oval shape in the package. the calipers came with the piston assembled and the dust boot on so i dont think they are any kind of a seal that i need to install. as well as i can figure they might be used to hold the brake pads into the caliper while one is moving the caliper into position on the adapter. the pads dont have the clips on the back of them that snap into the piston like some other makes do. i dont think the rubber bands are meant to stay on the car. neither haynes the original dodge service manual scanned to cd-rom or the install sheet that came with the calipers mentions anything about these. is there some vital function for these rubber bands or are they just an installation aid heres a tip... at least one vendor lists two different inner grease seals. one is described as being for the 8-lug front axle and costs around $10. the other is described as being for the 3300 pound front axle and costs around $3. the data plate on the van says it has a 3300 pound front axle but the wheels have 8 lugs. i tried the $10 seal and its diameter was about 1/2 too big. it had the common u-shaped cross section. the $3 one turned out to be the right seal. this one has the usual u-shaped cross section but also has another rubber collar coming off of the bottom of the u. in other words the cross section is approximately || || | | of course if i had the old part in hand when i went to the store i would have caught this. matt roberds ps this is the same van i posted about the steering a while back. it went to the mechanic and got a rebuilt steering box new ball joints etc. it turns a lot better now. .