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AC doesn't work

From : chris

Q: brettpowell@sbcglobal.net wrote in gxoa.496$i73.63319082@svr14..prodigy.com youre absolutely right about that. thats absolutely the best most accurate definition of a conservative that ive seen. and like any other conservative when confronted with the facts he resorts to ad hominem remarks lacking as his ideology is for substantive reasoned replies. nodding heads .

Replies:

From : tom lawrence

there is a difference in just running an engines at 4k rpm for days at a time and one in an auto with a load being taken on and off and started and stopped very often. i once had an engine problem where the engine was working and sounding beautiful while the car was in park. even reving up up sounded good but as soon as a load was put on it it bogged down and died this was just one test that i was a witness too. they had many tests. yes this particular test had no load but consecutive tests were with a tranny and lots of load. either way i was impressed. .

From : chris

mac advise wrote on 10 jul 2003 013732 gmt pigbruce@aol.com pig bruce wrote i have a 1973 dodge motorhome with a 413 cu in v8. the problem is that it is unreliable. it always starts easily when the engine is cold. when you drive it for 15 minutes up to an hour it just quits running. if you wait 10 minutes it will restart and run again for the same length of time. if you remove the air cleaner and look in the carb it is getting plenty of gas. if you remove a spark plug wire it is getting plenty of spark. i bought a new holley 4 barrel carb. i bought a new electric fuel pump.i bought 2 new ignition modules. i replaced the magnetic timer in the distributor. new cap and rotor new coil twice. new aluminum fuel tank and fuel lines. new ballast resistor. i moved the coil to the outside of the engine compartment. i have talked to many mechanics and they said i have done what they would have. i bought this motorhome 6 months ago so i could take my kids camping2 boys 12 and 16 years old but time is running out. please help! bruce bolton ft myers fla 239 693 2756 please dont take this wrong but stop swapping parts and get the thing to a reliable mechanic... its cheaper than what youre doing and much less stress... except for the pissing contest that evolved over vapor lock or lean mixture when you posted this same problem last february it sounds like you changed out every part suggested by everyone back then. mac is right get it to a good mechanic before throwing more money into it. that $90 a hour you complained about then might seem pretty cheap today. like mac this is not a flame or jab at you but another six months from now your still gonna be stuck with the same problem if you come back to the same people for the same advice. jerry -- character is doing the right thing when nobody is looking. .

From : im right

papa smurf wrote julian i just wanted to say again what a pleasure it has been conversing with you these last couple of days. now though it is time buckle down once again and refocus my energies on the companies but hopefully i will have time to pick your brain again one day soon. it has been a very nice diversion. garth absolutely! been down in sunny cornwall for a few days on business so havent replied but i can usually be found hanging out in alt.fan.landrover. cheers! -- julian. ---------- general melchett from blackadder describing his regiments coat of arms . . . .two dead frenchmen atop a pile of dead frenchmen. . . . . .

From : ignoramus11661

i find it very important for people to buy the first gen engines. people other than me that way everyone else can deal with the new engine problems so when i get around to buying the truck all the problems have been worked out.... so please! buy the first gen 5.7s! break them! bash them abuse them! i want all the problems worked out before i get one. ;- in a post i made regarding my deciding to go with 4.7l or hemi 2003 ram i received several emails saying to never buy a new model/generation engine. assuming you would inn effect be a guinea pig for all the problems the new engine will need twekaed. is this a myth i would suspect it makes some sense logically. i bought the hemi without considering this fact. love it...... so far ;^ is there anyone who has put a lot of miles on their hemi yet todd .

From : pj aimee ritz

ive checked the ebrake switch but not the clutch switch. ill try it. db miles wrote david burton wrote hi i have a 96 cummins diesel manual tranny truck and recently the cruise control began to refuse to engage though it turns on the abs light comes on and the ebrake light comes on. the abs and ebrake lights sometimes stay off for a while after starting up 1-10minutes but the cruise always refuses to engage. the vacuum is good and the brake pedal switch is good and properly adjusted. what else could this be ebrake switch or the clutch pedal switch would cause the cc to not engage. .

From : tom lawrence

btw if they ran a credit check without your signature or an expressed verbal ok you can take them to court contact a lawyer. remove wrote just thought i would share the 3 week nightmare i went through buying my 2003 dakota. yes this will be my last daimlerchrysler product. now i know many are going to jump on me about buying the truck after all this problem but there are a few reason why i did. first both dealers ran a credit check lowering by rating 5 points each time there is no valid reason for you to have allowed them to run a credit check until you have agreed to buy the truck. dealers always want to run a check but tell them no. dealers of all makes will attempt this. if they are unwilling to work out a price without a check then walk. day 3 - return to dealer 2 and ask for price on a certain truck i want and ask for a price. leave 1 hour later with no price. was told to go to dealer 1 and dealer 2 would beat their price not what i wanted. drive to dealer 1 and ask for their best price on truck they found and another dealer. price was right so told them i would buy it. off the dealer invoice minus all incentives/rebates. if they dont want to accept it then its up to them to name a price they will. day - 4 5 days later dealer 1 calls and said truck was sold by other dealer but they have one with same options and a few extra. no problem! so i drive 15 miles and find out the truck did not have the tow package i wanted. they told me i had to buy today or miss out on $500 trade-in rebate. no sale wanted tow package. salesman hints about the amount of time putting together this deal. dealers will always try to snag you with their bs of buy today or lose the good price. a trade-in rebate is no rebate at all. dodge didnt offer that rebate the dealer did and the dealer is not going to actually give you more for your trade. it is smoke and mirrors. the same deal you made today will be available next week. now why should i be happy with daimlerchrysler waited days to find out the original truck i wanted was sold to someone else. two weeks to buy a truck and then have to come up with another $300 to add the hitch and transmission cooler i wanted. payed $300+ extra for items i really did not need but wanted a blue dakota. then they try to charge a higher interest rate then quoted the first time. now would you buy a product from a company that treats customers this way i dont believe ill be looking at daimlerchrysler products when it time for my wifes new car. dc didnt have anything to do with your problems. the dealers played their games they have for decades and they drew you in. you bought a truck you really didnt want. that is your fault. next time you want to buy a vehicle find a car broker. they typically work in offices offsite from a dealership but do work for them. their normal business is fleet sales but they can sell a single vehicle to anyone. they have a set markup fee above invoice usually $200-$400. they will find you the vehicle you want no matter where it may be. .

From : tom lawrence

at least i do not use it when i drive... the truly tough people do not need a/c... yet you have a/c in your house... curious .

From : ignoramus11972

of course they do; they all live in china. i love those cheep cheesy chinese made amerikan flags.... john lasy year my son made it to a state championship wrestling competition here in pa. it was held in the johnstown war memorial. the war memorial stadium was built as a shrine to honor those veterans that served in wwii and korea and old war posters photos and banners abound in the place. as we were going to our seats a stadium employee was handing out little plastic american flags so that everyone could wave them during the national anthem. as i was sitting there i was examining the flag and sure enough it said made in china right on the border! considering where we were and why the grand old place was built i just couldnt believe they would hand out chinese flags. i threw mine in the trash on the way out. randy jesus i was just being sarcastic! you mean its true then again nothing is made here anymore nothing! its sickening! and do you know why a whole lot less is made in america nowadays .

From : Annonymous

robert hancock wrote you say you replaced the coil but it might also be a problem with the ignition module itself im assuming thats a separate component on this engine. its possible there might be some mechanical problem like a burnt valve or something thats causing a miss but the dealers engine replacement recommendation seems a tad extreme. did they provide details of the leakdown test results unfortunately no. they just said based on the results of the test they recommended an engine replacement. we dont really care if the van runs like new - we just want to cure the miss so the check engine light stays out. as far as i can tell the van runs about as well as it ever did. the van does have a persistent click at idle when cold. this click has been with us for a long time. i assume it is a noisy lifter if you can use that term for this engine. it usually clears up as soon as the engine warms up. it did this long before the check engine light became a problem. the miss is defintiely not continuous. i have riden for miles with the scan tool attached and never seen it show up. thanks for the suggestions. regards ed white .

From : jacob suter

steve i think that your assessment of the 4.7 in the dr1500 is correct. most folks that i know that have em are quite happy with either the stick or auto. i think that you will find especially on this ng that a lot of guys are gearheads and are simply not satisfied unless they have the biggest heaviest...... etc. etc... but in the real world the 4.7 is more than adequate when used within its design intent. as far as your expectations of the performance enhancement you expect to realize from the aftermarket accessories you mention i would caution you to take the claims put forth by the website with a grain of salt. it has been my experience over many years that the only outcome of these accessories is to fatten the wallets of the vendors. chryco service manager member sae @twister.southeast.rr.com steve the springs in your new ride are quite a bit stiffer than your gm. put a bit of weight at the tailgate and youll be surprised at the difference. the old chevy/gmc heavy half had the same issue the standard gm 1500 springs are very soft - to give a more car-like ride - but dont provide the payload capacity whereas the heavier springs really need a bit of weight on them. i put over 250k miles on an 81 gmc heavy half and made a point of keeping some weight in it for that very reason. oh yeah - that truck had an 85 hp 250 cid i-6 3 on the column and a 2.72 rear end with oversize 7.00-15 tires. knowing what that truck would do and what i did with it its not surprising that yours will out-perform it in almost every way. enjoy your truck and ignore those who think that you have to have a monster engine to pull a small boat. .

From : derek hawkins

denny because the centerforce unit provides 90% more holding power than the stock clutch. the stock clutch in most vehicles robs you of 20% or your horsepower and torque getting the power from the crank to the rear diff an auto robs you of even more most of the time. the centerforce dual friction set typically gives you back 8-12% of that loss. in short your engine isnt making more power put you are able to put more of it to the wheels. for the $400 it typically costs you provided you are capable of doing the install yourself the performance gain is remarkable. no exhaust system header or intake will give you the noticeable improvement that the centerforce dual friction clutch set will. and i am not preaching manuafacturer propaganda either i installed one of these clutch sets in my 1986 corvette and my best friends 1999 trans am. the improvements were awesome. the first time i drove the corvette after installing the new clutch i had a hard time keeping the tires hooked up. i had to buy stickier rubber to keep from spinning the wheels all the time. -- steve steve why are you going with the centerforce clutch if the factory disc is not slipping denny since a group is by nature an open forum i just wanted to voice my opinion on the topic of the 4.7l sohc engine. i have seen a lot of people bash that engine in the ram 1500 quad cab. one poster even suggesting that it is useless at pulling a load in excess of 2000 pounds. i have to wonder if this is opinion or that said posters have actually driven a ram 1500 qc with the 4.7. either that or the automatic transmission dodge is putting in these trucks is a total piece of shit. for what it is worth i have a 2003 dodge ram 1500 quad cab slt 4x4 with the 4.7l sohc engine the 5-speed manual transmission and 3.92 gears in the rearend with the limited slip option. i have had it for 1 month now and have about 4200 miles on the odometer. over the last month i have averaged 15mpg in daily driving it has actually been improving as the miles passed the 2000 mark and the one trip i took to virginia earned me an 18.7mpg. i have a 3200 pound 20 boat and trailer combination that i tow with it regularly and have no trouble maintaining 70mph or better even on a grade. yes i do have to shift a lot to keep the engine in the meat of its powerband and 5th gear is usually out of the question when towing unless the road is completely flat or downhill. as yet i have only two complaints about the truck 1 i find the way the rear end hops at the slightest bumps unnerving dont give me that its a truck crap either my 2000 chevrolet silverado extended cab didnt do this why should the dodge 2 the goodyear all-season tires that came on it suck they will be replaced shortly. so to all considering a truck like this if you know how to drive a stick get one. i have had no power problems with this motor and tranny combination. in fact it is quite quick provided you are not squeemish about revving it to 5500 rpm before shifting. this motor is quite flat below 2000 rpm. in fact it doesnt really wake up until 3000. just my 2 cents but i am quite happy with 4.7l and the 5-speed manual. it is a good combination. i am considering the jba shorty headers volant cold-air induction and a borla exhaust system. if you believe the power gain claims on www.truckperformance.com for these components my truck should be around 300hp with these additions. well see. also centerforce is working on a replacement clutch for this. a centerforce clutch doesnt make anymore horsepower but allows you to put more of it to the rear wheels. ill let you all know how it works out. -- steve - fuquay varina north carolina .