98 dakota 318 - A\C question ???
From : julio
Q: if the engine is running fine otherwise and not using much oil i would just put new bearing in there and be done with it myself. i guess the concept of micing the journal to see if its still round is too complicated just slap another bearing in it never works out the way you think it should. -- max give a man a match and he is warm for a short while. light him on fire and he is warm for the rest of his life. snoman wrote quote04fbefa096=max dodge the change in sound you are describing sounds like a main bearing. hardly. mains make very little noise when failed. in fact an engine with a failed main could run for quite some time depending on how much oil pressure is lost due to the failure. particularly in the 360 where the mains are 2.800 diameter the crank is stiff enough to keep any flex to a minimum. fact is it could be any bearing on the crank but is much more likely to be the rods than the mains. /quote04fbefa096 i agree that mains rarely make noise themselves and might cause a little vibration rumble in the engine if the get real loose along with bad oil pressure. but indirectly they do cause noise form other sources because when main gets worn they can cause rods to go because of lack of oil pressure to rods so in a way worn mains do cause noise. if the engine is running fine otherwise and not using much oil i would just put new bearing in there and be done with it myself. .
Replies:
From : julio
i agree a bigger truck will be better but the turning radius is the problem. with the short drives narrow streets and split rail fences turning and backing becomes a real problem. i have a 2001 ford f250 and a 2005 2500 ram both seem to be too long when you hang a plow on the front. fred i use a 1500 std cab and short bed. i do a bunch of fast-food restaraunt type lots and dont have a problem. why am i not surprised by this. ya gotta be paid in food. gbfg i have the quick ratio steering gear and it seems to work good as far at turning radius goes. i had to put a cooler on the return hose coming out of the gearbox to keep from burning the fluid. i still flush it every spring when i put the plow away tho. the ole dodge has to call for help if there more than 5-6 on the big lots. its just more than it can handle unless you want to spend all night getting it done. gotta plow with it fer sure. roy denny on sat 13 aug 2005 092703 gmt denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote anyone plow with a dakota am thinking of buying one to plow a small condo complex with short narrow drives and streets. any thoughts fred i dont but a good friend of mine uses a 93-94 dakota with a 6.5 western. it does fine on driveways and little spots where you have a couple of swipes and go. anything over about 6 and it takes him a while. he does one parking lot for a bowling alley and takes him a couple of hours to do it. i drove by and looked at it one time and had to chuckle it shouldnt have taken over about 45 minutes for the lot. overall hes happy with it. btw i second what roy said a bigger truck will handle it better. denny .
From : henry
my question can i find all options installed by using vin on the net no - but your dealer can give you a complete options list if you give them the vin. as an aside.. this has a carpet thing on the dash held by velcro strips glued to dash....looks like a nevermind. yeah - a dashmat. usually put on to cover up cracks in the dash. .
From : coasty uscgretspooge comcast net
what bugs does the 4.7 have .
From : tom lawrence
it is too much trouble if the knock just started and the bearing is not burnt. so let me get this straight you are staring at the journal with the bearing removed and its too much trouble to pull open the drawer in the box with the 2-3 outside mic in it and spin the barrel out and back in again to check the journal twice if the journal is still smooth and nothing is burnt it will not be out of round enough to worry about it if at all. bullshit. for lack of 60 seconds worth of verification you just spent $250 that might be ok or might be a waste in 7-10 days. if it is pounding all the time which it is notit is a different matter but it is not by this post. you tend to try to make thing more complicated than they need to be at times. 60 seconds with a decent mic is complicated btw i have seen some pretty bad jouranls do fine for a long time in new bearings that boost oil film pressure. yup and ive seen some jounals that looked fine go to absolute shit within hours. all because someone didnt have the mic and/or 60 seconds. your mechanical expertise is lacking. -- max give a man a match and he is warm for a short while. light him on fire and he is warm for the rest of his life. max dodge wrote i guess the concept of micing the journal to see if its still round is too complicated just slap another bearing in it never works out the way you think it should. it is too much trouble if the knock just started and the bearing is not burnt. if the journal is still smooth and nothing is burnt it will not be out of round enough to worry about it if at all. if it is pounding all the time which it is notit is a different matter but it is not by this post. you tend to try to make thing more complicated than they need to be at times. btw i have seen some pretty bad jouranls do fine for a long time in new bearings that boost oil film pressure. -- posted using the http//www.autoforumz.com interface at authors request articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards topic url http//www.autoforumz.com/dodge-98-9l-bearing-problem-ftopict130465.html visit topic url to contact author reg. reqd. report abuse http//www.autoforumz.com/eform.phpp=636939 .
From : transurgeon
put on 4 differnt comp. doesnt show up anything.when idling in drive truch has little jump back and fourth.with little throttle smooth out.no one seem to be able to find problem not even dodge. .
From : julio
on tue 26 jul 2005 184411 -0700 randy1128@webtv.net wrote what bugs does the 4.7 have weve had a 4.7l dakota since 01 and havent found a bug.. lots of em in the grill and radiator screen though.. mac please remove splinters before emailing .
From : coasty uscgretspooge comcast net
you can eliminate that musty stale air odor that comes from your air conditioning system with a product called atmosklear. atmosklear is an odorless odor eliminator and works amazingly well. you can find it in the air freshener aisle at most target stores or order it on line at www.atmosklear.net. simply spray the interior of the vehicle lightly then spray into each air portal a couple of trigger sprays. turn the fan on pulling outside air thru the system. go outside the car to the cowl at the base of the windshield and put about 20-25 trigger sprays into the system. let it run for two or three minutes. now go back into the car switch over to max air-conditioning. put about a dozen trigger sprays in the air in general and let the vehicle run for about ten minutes. you are left with a fresh nothing. get some at target. it is amazing. --- maf anti-spam id 20050527121052e3x0wpg9 the must odor is coming from the cooling coil caused by the buildup of mold mildew dust and dirt embedded into the coil. that spray stuff just temperoralrily masks the problem. a true no rinse coil cleaner is the only true and correct method of correcting the problem. on the average there is about 3/4 of a cup of junk on the coil bad for the health and one of the biggest problems in the industry. -- coasty remove the spooge to reply .
From : coasty uscgretspooge comcast net
thats about 150 psi too high............... so far this month ive seen 3 dodge caravans with a split seam in the condenser the problem is that the radiator fans no longer come on automatically with ac but wait till ect sensor detects high coolant temp............ and the condenser is no longer as hefty as it once was yep correct hp switch there i was going from memory that will teach me. i have a complet set of shop manuals and would i use them. most of the time it is the under the hood look see method sort of like asking for directions. -- coasty remove the spooge to reply the system has a captube not an expansion valve to control the refrigerant and does not use a hp switch. true about the txv valve - but not true about the hp switch. its right on the discharge line coming out of the compressor and opens up at around 450psi .
From : bob m
yep correct hp switch there i was going from memory that will teach me. i have a complet set of shop manuals and would i use them. most of the time it is the under the hood look see method sort of like asking for directions. -- coasty remove the spooge to reply the system has a captube not an expansion valve to control the refrigerant and does not use a hp switch. true about the txv valve - but not true about the hp switch. its right on the discharge line coming out of the compressor and opens up at around 450psi .
From : coasty uscgretspooge comcast net
i have a 96 dodge ram 2500 4x4 with an axle lying in my driveway. i removed the axle on the passenger side to install new u-joints this all went surprisingly well. my problem is that i cant slide the axle back in the way it came out. it will go in to within an inch and a half or so but there is something solid stopping it from going any further. i can feel the axle its 2 pieces by the way go into what i think are the seals then maybe an eighth of an inch more but thats it. i thought maybe the spline was just not lining up correctly but after roughly 478 attempts i figured the odds would be in my favor of accidentally aligning them. i dont want to beat on the axle because i dont want to damage the internal spline or the seals. what can i try truck is a 1996 2500 4x4 with the heavy duty front end gas powered v8. the axle slid out easily and i marked the top of the axle and the relationship between the axle halves in the hopes that if done in reverse life would be good. tia jim .
From : steve scott
since we have discussed milage with the cummings diesels it spured my curiosity. i have a 04 1500 quad cab bought it off the lot came with a hemi small tires unknown gears probably factory standard if there is such a thing automatic trans gave up my lincoln ls and mazda b5000 for the ram and happy i did except for the 11 mile per gallon around town. maybe get 16 mpg on a long trip. anyone else care to say what they are getting with the same truck. any thoughts on how to increas the mpg short of taking the battery out and the tires off and enbalming it jem that is about right my ram 4x4 w/318 gets 15/18 mpg and that is a good day. epa mileage estimates hint the word estimates are just that based on hoopla and no real use. -- coasty remove the spooge to reply .
From : tom lawrence
i dont know much about auto ac but with residential ac you need to pump the system down after a change out like youve described. you need to remove the air in the system as well as the moisture. a starting point would be to evacuate the system. make sure there arent any leaks and weigh a charge in with dye to detect possible current or future leaks. on tue 26 jul 2005 182956 -0400 julio nospamhere@home.net wrote hey all ! i replaced my condensor about a month ago and recharged the system w/a freon and oil combo set with the single gauge setup. all was fine and cold enough then 2 days ago i fired up the truck and the unit was not blowing cold air just cool so i grabbed the single gauge and tested the low side and it read the same as after i initially refilled system. the clutch kicks in intermittently for about 4 seconds and shuts off for about 4 seconds quite consistently. seems like the low on freon symptom. i tried to put a little more freon in but noticed that it didnt seem to help the on then off syndrome. i did not overfill at this point the gauge still being in the blue. is there a solenoid or switch to check or replace for this condition it is hot as hell out here. i dont want to get ripped off by some shop as i was hoping to remedy this and sell this great little truck with 200k miles for a new yellow hemi slt while the incentives are on. any suggestions thanks julio .
From : christopher thompson
what about a high pressure cut out switch blockage in the filter or expansion valve causing high head pressure and system possibly overfilled causing low side to read ok hard to tell without a proper set of gauges. just a thought. i am continually amazed at how many people think they can properly service an a/c system without the right tools or knowledge. yeah pumping a little more 134 in from a can to top off a system with a minor leak is one thing but when you open the system like replacing a condenser to try and do it without a vacuum pump a full set of gauges and/or the knowledge that these are requirements and not just nice-to-haves.... well the results are usually fairly predictable. to the op do yourself a huge favor - take the truck to an a/c shop have them evacuate and re-charge the system properly. its never going to work otherwise. have them put in some tracer dye while theyre at it so you can make sure your connections to the new condenser arent leaking you did change the o-rings and lightly lubed them with the proper oil first right .
From : coasty uscgretspooge comcast net
hello this is my first time posting here. i am looking a 2003 durango sport 4.7 with 44000mi. and a 2000 durango slt with leather 24000mi 5.9 both are very nice condition but what i would like to find out is the 5.9 better reliable than the 4.7 which is better on gas do they both run on unleaded. is there anything i should be aware of in the 2000 to 2003 models. and finally what year & options do you like the best. thanks for your help .