96 3.3 Dodge just stopped. Cam & crank sensors changed w/ASD. Spark hits one time only at each try. Coil pack changed. Help Me!?
From : Annonymous
Q: the factory recommended 50-50 mixture is the ideal ratio and should be adhered to in spite of anecdotal evidence posted below. this is the problem stero types. detriot uses 50/50 still because over millions of vechicle you save tens of millions of dollars a year for profit. the manufacturers use a 50-50 mizture based upon testing and chemical analysis. it has been proven to be the ideal ratio based upon millions of vehicles sold... nothing more. by your analysis then the anifreeze manufacturers should want to increase sales by recommending a higher ratio right visit any antifreeze manufacturers website and you will see that the recommended ratio is 50-50. are they not interested in profit.... please explain that dichotomy in fact many offer a pre-mixed product in a 50-50 ratio if they like every other business was only interested in profit would they not offer a 70-30 products as you suggest please explain that if you can. there was a time that detriot said 40/60 was best too. the problem is aggrevated by the mixed metal contect in engine blocks that increase galvanic reactivity and water is very reactive too. the less of it the better. the bs is is where people blindly folow detriot that wants you to by another car in 3 or 5 years or take it in for servicing. the last thing they want to do is build one that really lasts and reduces demand for their products. i keep some vehicle a very long time and i could send you pictures of overflow tanks and radiator that are as clean as they day they were built 17 or more years ago from using 70/30 but you would say that they were doctored or that i used a new or cleaned ones so knock yourself out. also by your bs people living in northen states are screwd because 50/50 will not cut it and even 60/40 will not either in a few areas and i for one have lived once where 40 below and colder was common in winter and 50/50 whould hae been worthless. you want to was your money you can but do not dismiss something as bs because you do not understand the physics behind it. i dont understand the physics behind it thats a hoot! im a degreed engineer with a major in ee and a minor in physics. no wonder you have this infatuation with heated leather seats.... vbg do ya think ol tender toosh has tested them yet there have been some cool nights. vbg roy yes ol tender tush has tested them in prepartaion for winter... cant be too careful i always say..... at least when yall are freezing your yankee asses off mine will be nice and toasty... thank you very much! well this is one yankee whos ass will only be freezing for one more winter. after this one im on the beach. except for visits of course. good move! mike roy ;^ mike .
Replies:
From : morgans
gentlemen all i am considering the purchase of a 1 or 2 year old 2500 series ram diesel probably with the 4 door cab. i would like some feedback about whether or not to shop for the automatic or just have some fun with the 6 speed. what should i look for since this will be my first diesel i seem to notice the resale value of all diesels drops dramatically from new is it just me or is there a good reason any and all info will be good for me at this point. thanks in advance mark m. fun with a 6 speed only if going slow is fun. the six speed is a big heavy transmission. it shifts like a truck and the ctd has a turbocharger so when you let off the throttle to shift boost goes away. with an automatic you stomp it and keep it to the floor and the transmission shifts. you dont loose the boost. al 04 ctd six speed 4x4. .
From : morgans
coasty wrote i was watching a motor show and they said more than likely dodge will be dropping the cummins engine from the dodge truck line in favor of a mercedes diesel sometime around 2010 after the cummins contract expires. coast i herd a few years ago that they were dropping cummins. they said mercedes diesel would replace it but i also herd that cat was developing a diesel for the dodge. if cat diesel would replace them i think dodge would sell pretty good. it really doesnt make any sense to me why dc would drop cummins for cat instead of just using their own engines unless cat is offering one hell of a deal that even mercedes cant beat. cummins has already proven itself in the ram and while i can see a significant cost savings dropping a mercedes diesel in it after the contract expires i really dont see how cat could beat cummins price by enough to risk the loss in sales by switching away from cummins. i heard that cummins was bought out by either ford or gm- i cant remember which. .
From : maxpower
on mon 4 sep 2006 142645 -0500 mike simmons mikesim@yhti.net wrote yes ol tender tush has tested them in prepartaion for winter... cant be too careful i always say..... at least when yall are freezing your yankee asses off mine will be nice and toasty... thank you very much! ;^ mike hope its a short walk from the heated truck seats to the heated office seats.... wouldnt want a lot of condensation forming.... mac hmmmmm heated office seat now theres a thought........ ;^ mike https//home.comcast.net/mac.davis https//home.comcast.net/mac.davis/woodstuff.htm .
From : desertbob
hey so am i. i mostly work on the telephony wireless and wan infrastructure for an independent oil company but do some work with our windows servers and workstations. i like saving money on vehicle repairs/upgrades and since i have 3 i dont mind having one down for an extended period of time while i do it right. that and it gives me something to talk about with the real mechanics at my company. you always have the best information. are you a dodge technician or service manager neither... im a computer geek. i just enjoy working on my vehicles. i find the smell of grease and the busted knuckles offsets the pocket protector and taped-up glasses. .
From : desertbob
was running fine during routine shopping. when my wife came out of store the engine would not crank. fuel is no problem it has new fuel pump. i have replaced crank and cam sensors also plugged in new asd relay to no avail. changed coil pack. when i check the firing at plugs it hits one heavy spark and no more at each try. only hits again after ignition is turned off and then back on. please respond with any suggestion. the spark is not going to be there as long as you crank the engine. the asd relay shuts down fuel and spark after 3 seconds of cranking. you say there is good pressure what was the pressure reading glenn .
From : morgans
uccoskun@gmail.com wrote be sure you check all the fuses. especailly ecm one. thanks for the advice i have checked all fuses and relays twice! ps you confirm you have fuel. relief fuel pressure and check it as you crank.ifyou get fuel pressure you have no fuleproblem. i have done just as you suggest - there is truly no fuel problem. thanks again ok we are getting somewhere. there is no fuel have you tested fuel pressure and volume if so and it was 0 then have you listened to hear the fuel pump run have you swapped the fuel pump relay with another working relay of the same type. say the horn relay have you verified that there is fuel in the tank yes i know overly simplistic but you would be surprised how easy that one can be to miss lol. -- ---------------------------- -chris 05 ctd 06 liberty crd real trucks dont need spark plugs. .
From : morgans
yup i really do have 288k on it and so far so go as they say. thanks for your input i do agree with dont fix what aint broke. but i would like to avoid any nasty surprises if i can. again thanks david what kind of nasty surprise are you expecting out of a lifter if it isnt ticking then id leave it be. -- ---------------------------- -chris 05 ctd 06 liberty crd real trucks dont need spark plugs. .
From : Annonymous
morgans jsmorgan@charter.net wrote besides the abusive insulting style what you post runs quite contrary to my experiences. note the following is case history not conjecture. oh i forgot to add that this vehicle with the melted converter had been in the family since new and had never run leaded gas or had any emissions controls or systems bypassed or any other systems altered. it had been given excellent maintenance throughout its life. -- jim in nc .
From : chris thompson
is it simply a matter of removing wheel caliper anvil rotor/hub assembly drive axle then replacing the u joint pretty much... need a big socket for the axle nut 1-11/16 maybe. loosen this with the wheel on the ground pop the hubcap off remove the cotter pin then loosen nut. raise the wheel remove it remove the brake caliper two 3/8 allen bolts - dont let caliper hang by the brake hose - tie it up to the coil spring with a bungee cord loosen the four hub bolts on the back side 14mm 12-point socket a little bit and tap them with a hammer to press the hub off of the knuckle. if they were just done it should be pretty easy to take off. slide the hub/rotor assembly off the knuckle and off of the axle shaft. if the axle shaft wants to come out with it so be it - you can just pull/tap it out of the hub once its removed from the axle housing. the axle u-joints use external snap rings as opposed to the internal style you saw on your driveshaft u-joints. they clip around the u-joint cups on the inboard side of the yoke ears. tap them out with a small sharp cold chisel or similar. the rest of the procedure is identical to your driveshaft joints. for re-assembly torque the four 12-point hub bolts to 125ft.lbs. and the axle nut to 175 ft.lbs. .
From : Annonymous
well this is a special post isnt it besides the abusive insulting style what you post runs quite contrary to my experiences. note the following is case history not conjecture. drive with a plugged converter long enough you burn all the heads off the exhaust valves- due to excessive engine heat- the exhaust cant get out. snip lmao! the engine will quit running before that point dumbbell. i once had a converter plug up and it ran but without much power. after determining the problem the converter was changed and i discovered a strange situation. the car would run fine then suddenly it would lose power then be back to normal. sometimes it would be bad for a few miles sometimes for many miles. after i cut the converter off and replaced it i found that all of the contents of the catalytic converter had melted and re-solidified as a perfect fitting plug against the outflow end. you could even see theindentations of the outflow screen in the plug. as you drove around the gas flow and bumps in the road would cause the plug to fit against the screen withg an expected loss of performance. after the car was shut off or hit the right bump the plug would fall into the bottom of the case; not blocking the exhaust flow and the engine would run normally. as far as the damage to the engine note that it did run even with a near perfect plug but the exhaust valves were pretty well cooked although not melted off. the compression was low on 2 out of 6 cylinders but higher rpm running was not too severely affected. idle was not good and there was some stumbling as the engine rpm came up. so perhaps what you seem to be so sure of is not so sure after all. you might try to discuss and learn rather than being a know-it-all. -- jim in nc .
From : desertbob
desertbob wrote on 5 sep 2006 114352 -0700 coastincarl@gmail.com wrote thanks for your input - sounds more knowledgable than most. .
From : Annonymous
uccoskun@gmail.com wrote be sure you check all the fuses. especailly ecm one. thanks for the advice i have checked all fuses and relays twice! ps you confirm you have fuel. relief fuel pressure and check it as you crank.ifyou get fuel pressure you have no fuleproblem. i have done just as you suggest - there is truly no fuel problem. thanks again .
From : Annonymous
on 5 sep 2006 114352 -0700 coastincarl@gmail.com wrote your word to the wise concerning exhaust backpressure is well taken; i did not know that. im in agreement with you concerning gone are the days. thanks for all your input snip plugged converters usually show up on car that are either prodigeous oil burners ash then plugs the honycomb or which have had their emssions systems tampered with as all of charlie nudos cars are where the platinum substrate has been depleted by running a car too rich. of course old age kills converters too but ive seen them with 200k on them and still working satisfactorily enough to pass the most stringent smog testing regimen in the us. the key is good engine and system maintenance. not long ago a doofus nearby in an older ranger neatly melted his cat converter by simply unplugging the o sensor forcing the fuel system to run rich in open loop saying that smog control was government interference with him running his car...about as convoluted a bit of thinking ive seen in awhile. when told he needed a new converter and a smog check he said not to worry just put in a spacer and that joe blow across town would pass it by putting his car on the dyno/sniffer. joe blow is now serving a five year stint in one of our unluxurous and adventurous state prisons for multiple counts of fraud and clean air violations. .
From : Annonymous
goto dealer ask them for the wiring diagram. try to locate all the sensors realted to the ignitiion system. check all the connectors. same books shows wehre the connectors are. try to test all the sensors to be sure youhave working sensors. if you want you can bypass some relays. be sure you check all the fuses. especailly ecm one. ps you confirm you have fuel. relief fuel pressure and check it as you crank.ifyou get fuel pressure you have no fuleproblem. coastincarl@gmail.com wrote i wasnt sure - was there any advise to me concerning my dilemma .
From : desertbob
no it doesnt stop turning - no problem with battery or starter. it does look like the pcm powertrain control module is my next step and i may be forced to have it towed to a dealer for diagnosis. i just didnt want to be ripped off which none of us can afford. your word to the wise concerning exhaust backpressure is well taken; i did not know that. im in agreement with you concerning gone are the days. thanks for all your input .
From : dutyhonorcountry
on mon 4 sep 2006 142315 -0600 budd cochran mr-d150@preciscom spam.net wrote oh my. i sneak a peek in here see something about me and youre stabbing me in the back...that is your style after all isnt it attack the defenseless or those not around to defend themselves. youre just a coward in my book. my only mistake theguyor whoever you are/were was in trying to live my christian beliefs in this group which you among others just had to rip into and which shows your true colors. iow i got tired of the bigots posing as those that epitomize tolerance. but you are right i did lose a lot in the end . . .i lost every intolerant idiot in the group but i kept the ones truly worth calling friend i lost the emotional stress of being ridiculed because i dont live down to the level you exist at and ive been doing great without the likes of you. i lost you i lost t-bone jerry dd beekeeper and all the others that cannot accept a person truly living their christian beliefs. wow its been fabulous without you!!! and then you have the temerity to talk of the old days you hypocrite. how many times did i try to warn this group that they were letting too many troublemakers in oh thats right troublemakers acceptable fundamental christians not acceptable. makes me glad im not subscribed here anymore. dont bother answering im gone. -- budd cochran still playing the victim i see. i am happy to hear that you are alive and doing well. while i remember some intolerance it wasnt from any of us that have remained here. i see very little differences between christians that wont associate with anyone that doesnt believe exactly the same as they do or the terorists of the world that are out to get the infidels. its a sad mind set. and to suggest that we should censor what is written here or who is allowed in here is just plain close minded and unamerican. beekeep .
From : femaster femaster hotmail com
suddenly without warning bryan exclaimed 05-sep-06 325 am jmc wrote pretty annoyed my truck seems to be failing by bits. jmc my experience with a failed cap was the rubber washer. it had swollen and wouldnt allow coolant to enter from the coolant recovery tank. in 32f/0c weather the engines temperature would swing wildy. lesson replace the !$%^&* cap when doing cooling system maintenance. that reminds me... per snomans advice i gots to step up to 80/20% coolant/water. while im at it ill tighten the front pump bolts on my manual trans to 150 ft/lb and replace the knock sensor on my v10. after all hes the exspurt ie formerly a drip under pressure. bryan ;- hmmm. the maximum allowed according to my trucks manual is 70/30. dunno what happens if thats exceeded though. jmc if you have been reading all the recent activity here in the garage you would see bryan is poking fun at snoman aka; snowidiot anus asshole hole ass hole puddle ass clown snojob dd or just dennys neighbor. puddle is a self proclaimed expert who pokes his head in here occasionally to give advice that is less than accurate and in some cases could be damaging to folks engine if they dont wait to get the correct advice. everyone is still waiting to here where the knock sensor is hiding on the v10. lol one of his latest rants was on the % of coolant to use. if you read him at all remember it is just for its hollywood entertainment value. fmb n mexico ps get those pics online please. .
From : femaster femaster hotmail com
has anyone come up with an alternative to the factory fasteners for the inner fender skirts on a 96 ram 1500 or similar the fasteners appear to be one use only. i am trying to do some work around my truck and it would be simpler if i could remove the fender skirts. i can push the centers of the factory fasteners out but then i cannot re-use them. i am looking for something that i can re-use. any ideas are these the fasteners that you poke the center in a bit to unlock it then pull out whole fastener if it is what i think it is position the center part so it is poking out from the fasteners top insert the fastener then push the center till it is flush with the rest of the fastener. that should relock it. fmb n mexico .
From : Annonymous
i want to be able to play music while the doors are open and the key in the igninion on accessory. past autos had a button switch that could be forced closed one way or another while door was open. i assume there is a hidded switch/sensor somewhere. how do i over-ride it. in the 3rd gen trucks the sensor is in the door latch. for the 05 model theres a four-pin connector at the latch itself. youre interested in the 20-gauge violet wire which is the door ajar sense. this wire can also be found in a 10-pin connector under the dash one row of 4 pins one row of 6 pins. to help identify it these are the colors of the pins 1- violet this is the one you want 2 - light green/yellow 3 - tan/gray 4 - dark green/yellow 5 - dark green/light blue 6 - tan/orange 7 - pink/yellow 8 - orange/light blue 9 - red 10 - black/violet what i dont know is whether the violet wire is grounded when the door is open or closed. youll have to use a meter and figure that out. if its grounded when the door is closed then just tap that wire and run it to a switch on the dash that will allow you to manually switch to ground. if its grounded when the door is opened cut the wire and run both sides to a spst switch. turning the switch off will prevent the circuit from being grounded. .
From : newman
on wed 6 sep 2006 103245 -0400 chevrolet lblower@cogeco.ca wrote it was a typo.. it shopuld have read 1985.. the 5 got left out.. it is a 225.. the motor is fudged though..oil by the rings etc from the seize.. i have a 1992 dakota low km motor 318fi that is sitting around.. i will put the 318 in and rebuild the 2 slants i have here. thanx all.. some guy emailed me and said to change the bellhousing and dump a 350 in it.. lol a dodge with a 350 would insult most dodge owners.. but it would be different i agree that it is not a wise pratice to put a chevy motor in a dodge or jeep or ford or a dodge motor is the other brands because you should keep it stock no matter what brand you choose. the 225 is a study engine and back it the 60s you could cut .150 off of head to raise compression 170 and 225 used same head but 225 piston did not come to top of cylinder to keep compression low with bigger stroke as bore was the same if you did this and improved the breathing a bit it would warm up nicely. back in the 60s they had what was called as i recal a hyper pack kit/option for them they added a specail intake and 4 bll carb and boosted the hp well over 200 hp. like other posted said i would keep the 225 and rework it a bit if you want more power as it is a very sturdy motor otherwise. ----------------- thesnoman.com .