95 dodge dakota 4x4
From : bassman
Q: i have a 95 dodge dakota and two weeks ago i went out to start it and nothingi did a tune-up new coilnew fuel pumpand still no sparkand no fuel the truck came equipped with a viper remote starter / alarm hed the truck towed to a local garage and after a week there they brought it back and had no ideacan someone give me an idea whats going on .
Replies:
From : nosey
yes the starter turns over fine but the fuel pump does not turn on newly installed and i have no spark coming from the coil aslonew plugscaprotrall newthe alarm is a viper 552 model .
From : bassman
can you tell me where this is located and what it looks likeor better yet if i disconnect all the wires from the alarm will this correct the problem or will i have to rewire the truck to get power back to the coil and fuel pump .
From : christopher thompson
first thought is to make sure that the viper alarms disconnect relay is kicking in like its supposed to to allow power to what ever it disconnects to disable the vehicle. now im not familar with how that particular alarm works what it disconnects or what else it may tie into so i couldnt help you any further with that part. -- -chris 05 ctd 06 liberty crd i have a 95 dodge dakota and two weeks ago i went out to start it and nothingi did a tune-up new coilnew fuel pumpand still no sparkand no fuel the truck came equipped with a viper remote starter / alarm hed the truck towed to a local garage and after a week there they brought it back and had no ideacan someone give me an idea whats going on .
From : marsh monster
.. .. ===== ===== bassman wrote can you tell me where this is located and what it looks likeor better yet if i disconnect all the wires from the alarm will this correct the problem or will i have to rewire the truck to get power back to the coil and fuel pump ======= ======= try this....... http//forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/4/47.html its a top site with top techs........ cruise the site do a search of the archives ask for help........ generally.....go to a pro. hopefully helpfull marsh monster sips his mushroome tea..... .
From : bassman
i went over everything and before i disconnected wires i followed them where they reconnect so all the wires are back together as per color codebut still no power .
From : bassman
marsh monster wrote . . ===== ===== bassman wrote can you tell me where this is located and what it looks likeor better yet if i disconnect all the wires from the alarm will this correct the problem or will i have to rewire the truck to get power back to the coil and fuel pump ======= ======= try this....... http//forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/4/47.html its a top site with top techs........ cruise the site do a search of the archives ask for help........ generally.....go to a pro. hopefully helpfull marsh monster sips his mushroome tea..... okay now i am really baffled i completely diconnected the alarm system and still have no fuel or spark help anyone! .
From : bassman
okay now i am really baffledi completly disconnected the alarm/remote starter systemand still no power or fuel does anyone have an idea what could be wrong now! .
From : tom r
okay now i am really baffledi completly disconnected the alarm/remote starter systemand still no power or fuel does anyone have an idea what could be wrong now! my guess would be that when they installed the alarm system they had to cut some wires and splice the alarm into the circut now that you removed the alarm the wires have to be reconnected. tr .
From : ednosey
my 1999 ram 1500 107000 miles has never had a problem with the ac either. its a good idea to run the a/c occasionally even if you dont need it to keep everything moving lubed etc. i make sure to run mine about once a week. as far as chrysler ac systems they are no better or worse than any other makers ac system. i can state that i have a 94 and 98 dodge and never had to add or do anything to it and it is all relative. if you persist on do-it-yourself then get a leak detector and find the leak it is all guess work until the leak is found. most of the time it is the o-ring seals on the disconnects not the compressor. i have a high dollar ultrasonic leak detector made by ue it will pin point any leak in seconds on anything in any condition. coasty i posted this earlier and never got much in the way of constructive advice. now that i got things working i thought i would post my positive experience. i have a 2001 2500 cummins td with 6-speed manual. a/c worked last fall now it does not. about a year ago a/c was repaired by previous owner some hoses replaced and recharged. clutch did not engage indicating low pressure. i have the manifold guages and an adapter to tap the can of r-134a. i connected it up and the pressure was low and the same on high and low side. i tried to charge with a can of refrigerant and the clutch on the compressor then engaged for very short periods - a few seconds but it did not seem to want to take a charge. i tried again later without the guages using one of those short 12 recharge hoses. did not seem to take much of the charge. i filled a plastic container with warm tap water and stuck the can in that. it took the charge. compressor still engaged for very short periods. but now it did seem to be blowing cool air! i figured this problem is beyond me. of course most of you said leave this to the professionals... called my mechanic. he doesnt do a/c or diesel work. they recommended someone local. i called him. he said if the compressor engages for very short periods and then disengages it is too low on refrigerant. he wanted $135 to recharge. said probably compressor seal is leaking and they dont replace those you replace the compressor. $400 just for the part. probably around $600 plus for the job. probably more. did not chide me for putting in refrigerant myself. so i put in most of another can. now it works. i bought these two cans at wal-mart for around $8 each. guess id better carry some spares. funny. my 1986 saab 900 turbo i bought in december 1994 from the first owner came with all the service records. no sign of a/c repair. two years later it blew warm and i had the hoses recrimped and refilled with r-12 for $150. this worked for about another 6 years and then it failed again. i put in gasp hydrocarbon substitute and recharged it again the next year after it blew warm and it is still working! is it the dodge or the r-134a system that is so failure prone this truck is only 5 years old! charles .
From : bassman
still can not get this junk running cna anyone help nosey wrote bassman wrote yes the starter turns over fine but the fuel pump does not turn on newly installed and i have no spark coming from the coil aslonew plugscaprotrall newthe alarm is a viper 552 model i couldnt find *any* info for a viper 522. are you sure that is the model number the viper models that im familiar with use a heavy gauge relay harness for the remote start. the factory ignition circuit isnt normally bypassed when installing this harness. that way if the remote start circuit fails the vehicle will still start with the key. the starter disable circuit if installed only grounds the starter motor not the ignition so that isnt your problem either. the wiring on the remote start relay harness is only a couple of feet long so its probably hooked up directly to the ignition switch harness inside the steering column. remove the steering column trim panel and inspect the wiring there. make sure the factory dark blue wire and the black wire arent cut or damaged. those are the ignition wires. im not sure if both of those wires are supposed to be hot during cranking but if you dont have voltage on at least one of those wires with the key in the crank position the ignition switch is bad. i hope this helps. this is a
From : bassman
nosey wrote bassman wrote yes the starter turns over fine but the fuel pump does not turn on newly installed and i have no spark coming from the coil aslonew plugscaprotrall newthe alarm is a viper 552 model i couldnt find *any* info for a viper 522. are you sure that is the model number the viper models that im familiar with use a heavy gauge relay harness for the remote start. the factory ignition circuit isnt normally bypassed when installing this harness. that way if the remote start circuit fails the vehicle will still start with the key. the starter disable circuit if installed only grounds the starter motor not the ignition so that isnt your problem either. the wiring on the remote start relay harness is only a couple of feet long so its probably hooked up directly to the ignition switch harness inside the steering column. remove the steering column trim panel and inspect the wiring there. make sure the factory dark blue wire and the black wire arent cut or damaged. those are the ignition wires. im not sure if both of those wires are supposed to be hot during cranking but if you dont have voltage on at least one of those wires with the key in the crank position the ignition switch is bad. i hope this helps. this is a list of what the factory ignition switch harness wire colors /should/ be. constant 12v+ pink/black starter yellow ignition dark blue ignition 2 black accessory black/orange -- ken .
From : nosey
/should/ be. constant 12v+ pink/black starter yellow ignition dark blue ignition 2 black accessory black/orange -- ken . 222 318908 e6jvvp$tpj$1@nntp.aioe.org yes the starter turns over fine but the fuel pump does not turn on newly installed and i have no spark coming from the coil aslonew plugscaprotrall newthe alarm is a viper 552 model i couldnt find *any* info for a viper 522. are you sure that is the model number the viper models that im familiar with use a heavy gauge relay harness for the remote start. the factory ignition circuit isnt normally bypassed when installing this harness. that way if the remote start circuit fails the vehicle will still start with the key. the starter disable circuit if installed only grounds the starter motor not the ignition so that isnt your problem either. the wiring on the remote start relay harness is only a couple of feet long so its probably hooked up directly to the ignition switch harness inside the steering column. remove the steering column trim panel and inspect the wiring there. make sure the factory dark blue wire and the black wire arent cut or damaged. those are the ignition wires. im not sure if both of those wires are supposed to be hot during cranking but if you dont have voltage on at least one of those wires with the key in the crank position the ignition switch is bad. i hope this helps. this is a list of what the factory ignition switch harness wire colors /should/ be. constant 12v+ pink/black starter yellow ignition dark blue ignition 2 black accessory black/orange -- ken bassman wrote still can not get this junk running cna anyone help did you check for voltage in the ignition switch harness harness yet -- ken .
From : bassman
that is correct scott ed wrote my 1999 ram 1500 107000 miles has never had a problem with the ac either. its a good idea to run the a/c occasionally even if you dont need it to keep everything moving lubed etc. i make sure to run mine about once a week. im not 100% sure but i think the ac compressor runs in the defrost mode. if you frequently use the defroster it shouldnt be necessary to run the ac in the winter. -- ken .
From : nosey
bassman wrote yes the starter turns over fine but the fuel pump does not turn on newly installed and i have no spark coming from the coil aslonew plugscaprotrall newthe alarm is a viper 552 model i couldnt find *any* info for a viper 522. are you sure that is the model number the viper models that im familiar with use a heavy gauge relay harness for the remote start. the factory ignition circuit isnt normally bypassed when installing this harness. that way if the remote start circuit fails the vehicle will still start with the key. the starter disable circuit if installed only grounds the starter motor not the ignition so that isnt your problem either. the wiring on the remote start relay harness is only a couple of feet long so its probably hooked up directly to the ignition switch harness inside the steering column. remove the steering column trim panel and inspect the wiring there. make sure the factory dark blue wire and the black wire arent cut or damaged. those are the ignition wires. im not sure if both of those wires are supposed to be hot during cranking but if you dont have voltage on at least one of those wires with the key in the crank position the ignition switch is bad. i hope this helps. this is a list of what the factory ignition switch harness wire colors /should/ be. constant 12v+ pink/black starter yellow ignition dark blue ignition 2 black accessory black/orange -- ken .